So, I spent most of the afternoon hard waring a dashcam to my 4-day old (used) Skoda Superb Mk3 Sportline 2017 plate.

I spent loads of time hiding all the cables, even threaded the rear cam cable though the boat gator, tidy job. I had identified 2 fuses to piggy back on (perm. live and ignition live) (both 5 amp) Fuse 5 - Databus and Fuse 16 - phonebox. Did a test drive before did the permanent wire up to make sure that stop start didn’t power off the cam - all good.

I had the fuses out of fuse 5 and 16 for some time while I routed the cables, replacing them to start the ignition, only to find an errors and faults - Adaptive Cruse Control, unavailable, stop/start unavailable and front assist unavailable and bizarrely a fault on the electronic parking brake.

I thought I must have blown a fuse – so I tested continuity on all fuses and the ones in the engine bay – all good. I double checked everything. Removed the piggy back fuses … same errors. Took the car for a long spin and reset to factory default. Same errors.

Anyone got an idea? – searching the forums it sounds like a recalibration, but any pointers would help me before I ring Skoda.

Cant edit my post ...

waring = wiring

boat = boot

If you cant figure it out, my advice would be to remove it all before taking it into skoda as this will affect your warranty 

1 hour ago, DIYnewbie said:

If you cant figure it out, my advice would be to remove it all before taking it into skoda as this will affect your warranty 

 

Thanks - I still need the cam fitting however. 

 

It feels rather odd that those systems would have all an issue. Could disconnecting the databus somehow have reset it? or caused it to loose some settings?

 

If there is a fault with the parking brake would that cause the other systems to stop?

 

Would a detailed diagnostic(VCDS) give me more than my WiFi OBD?

 

 

Worth mentioning I had a reverse cam fitted by the dealer and coded. Could that have had its coding cleared and thats whats causing the error?

Cant help with the issues your facing, however can safely say that when my car developed an interior light fault, they where quick to suggest it may be the camera I had fitted, despite using piggy back fuses as yourself. They warned me that my warranty would be void if the camera was the cause! Hopefully you can solve it, but if not just remove any evidence of the camera before they investigate the issues, or could be costly

Out of the myriad of fuse locations to chose from, u had to pick the Databus one!!!!

Everything (all the electrics) in the car communicate via the databus.

 

Did u read the various dashcam installs in this forum?

I don't believe anyone has used the same fuse locations that u used.

 

Why did u pick those ones?

10 minutes ago, JR RS said:

Out of the myriad of fuse locations to chose from, u had to pick the Databus one!!!!

Everything (all the electrics) in the car communicate via the databus.

 

Did u read the various dashcam installs in this forum?

I don't believe anyone has used the same fuse locations that u used.

 

Why did u pick those ones?

 

I had to choose one that mached the amp rating of the cam (in this case 5amp) and of the 3 mini fuses 2 were constant and the other was switched.

 

 

agree, if you disconnect the databus one you'll probably need to have a dealer reset the software- may be possible if you disconnect the battery?

Bear in mind modern car electronics are never completely off.

 

You don't need to choose one the same rating as the camera. Lots of threads on here about which fuses to pull

First hit on google

 

Edited 16 September, 20196 yr by Q102

As above you don’t need to pick a fuse the same rating, the fuse you pull goes into the piggy back, the side with the flying lead takes the 2A/5A that feeds your camera. Most use the rear wiper fuse.

Thank you @Kenny R and @Q102 - reassuring advice.

 

I spoke to Skoda - it's booked in on Thursday, I explained what I had done to the Technician and he was surprised what I had done caused an issue, but said they would run a full diagnostic.

 

Should I try disconnecting the battery, could I potentially cause further issues even if I did it correctly? if its ok how long should it be disconnected for?

 

I do think the Databus has got its nickers in a twist and needs some investigation - I fully appreciate I should not have used that fuse.
 

 

Just a thought, did you leave doors open for a long while when fitting? You can get strange faults popping up if the battery was in a low state of charge when you fired up

Edited 16 September, 20196 yr by bigjohn

9 hours ago, bigjohn said:

Just a thought, did you leave doors open for a long while when fitting? You can get strange faults popping up if the battery was in a low state of charge when you fired up

 

@bigjohn - Yes - I had them open while removing the seals and routing the wires.

 

Then on starting it did turn over 2-3 times before starting

 

I did notice at one point it said imbilizer enabled.

 

The car ran ok yesterday - obviously still with these errors. On MySkoda the battery readout is 13.4v

I have fitted / refitted a dash cam to my Octy Scout and Karoq using the excellent  advise given on this forum using the rear window wiper fuse.

Each time no problems! the hardest part being the removal of the Scout glove box.

I would suggest looking through the how to guides before starting.

I spoke to Skoda. They suggested disconnecting the battery for 10 mins - (negative lead only)

 

Unfortunatly that didnt do anything - although im not sure it fully reset the car becuase some of my preferences were retained.

 

1 hour ago, robbrad said:

I spoke to Skoda. They suggested disconnecting the battery for 10 mins - (negative lead only)

 

Unfortunatly that didnt do anything - although im not sure it fully reset the car becuase some of my preferences were retained.

On my old Octavia I used to have to leave it 30mins to clear any faults. How about getting the Carista device /app?

Edited 17 September, 20196 yr by bigjohn

14 hours ago, robbrad said:

 

@bigjohn - Yes - I had them open while removing the seals and routing the wires.

 

Then on starting it did turn over 2-3 times before starting

 

I did notice at one point it said imbilizer enabled.

 

Yup, the low voltage confuses things. Now voltage etc is normal you'll need to clear codes (they may clear eventually after the car has been started a few times)

Find someone with VCDS around Crewe.