Well im teetering off the edge of the slipperey slope.

I have a lovely new HU and wonder what should be next.

Options are either new component speakers, that I can fit myself over Xmas with access to my dads tools...

or A professionally fitted Sub, I dont fancy messing with wiring myself.

Fronts would probably come to about

I'm assuming you've still got the stock speakers? Change them and then see if you want a sub. I'm certainly no expert but I always assumed a sub woofer was for when you've done everything else and still want a little more. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

I changed the H/U and speakers and I'm 99% happy. The other 1% is not worth the room a sub would take up and the cost.

Welcome to the slippery slope. Scary near the top isn't it? :p

As it's an octy I'd go for the speaker change first, especially if hard bass is not a priority... but should be if you're a prodigy fan.. :speaker: "I'M A FIRESTARTER! TWISTED FIRESTARTER!"

See how it all sounds with good front speakers, and then if the bass isn't hard enough, the amp & sub in the boot would be the ultimate.

The standard speakers are a bit pants. I changed my headunit (lovely Alpine) thinking marvelous, as in my last car it made all the difference. A 10" or 8" Sub would probably be the way to go (if you want a sub) or a set of 7x10's as they pack a fair bit of punchy bass. I listen to mainly dance music and hip hop, but I also like to slam in some linkin park (nice bass drops). I run a 12" sub, it's great for these bands but crap for the like of Greenday etc. Spend money on a decent amp as well, as you do not want all that money you've spent on a sub going fizzle when your poor quality amp kicks down some nice distorted signals Unfortunately ICE costs and you do get what you pay for unfortunately. I was lucky enough to have a lot of spare cash so I bought good kit (Cerwin Vega) I would look at brands such as Rockford Fosgate (get some good deals in the back of Max Idiot), Fusion, Cerwin Vega, Infinity, JBL and I have heard Pro Plus stuff is quite good to also internet ICE stores do not always work out that cheap if you pay a shop to fit it it's sometimes worthwhile going into the shop and haggling right i've dribbled on enough now so hope this helps you

If it were me (ie. what I did), sod components and just get 2-ways. Get pretty good set in the front (about

I would change the fronts first. The problem with adding a sub onto an other wise standard unit is that it then becomes all about bass (not necessarily a bad thing )

BUT it's good bye to midrange if you're not careful. If you're thinking of going the sub route eventually, it has to be components up front, probably driven by a seperate amp - most components (like my Infinity CS6500's) just don't get enough power from HU amps - even supposedly "powerful" ones. I've seen people complain about sticking better speakers in and being disappointed by the result - stick 'em on the end of a decent amp and then see (or hear!)

If you'r not too bothered about massive bass, rob's solution should be fine - most two ways need less amplification so compliment a HU amp much better.

The CS6500's fit in with little bother - the tweeters go straight in to the factory hole when you've (gently) prised the mesh of the top - the wookers need the top of the window cannel stay trimming down half an inch to get the magnet in. The crossovers will even slide behind the door cards art the front!

Slope? more like free fall!

(like my Infinity CS6500's) just don't get enough power from HU amps - even supposedly "powerful" ones. I've seen people complain about sticking better speakers in and being disappointed by the result - stick 'em on the end of a decent amp and then see (or hear!)

The CS6500's fit in with little bother - the tweeters go straight in to the factory hole when you've (gently) prised the mesh of the top - the wookers need the top of the window cannel stay trimming down half an inch to get the magnet in. The crossovers will even slide behind the door cards art the front!

Hopefully 4x60w alpine unit will cope with the upgrade.

I think the cs6500's are my choice at the mo too.

Is the trimming just cutting out some plastic from the door?

Where are you suggesting the crossovers go? It was suggested to me before to put them in the door armrest/handle space. What are the door cards?

Do you need a new cage thing fot the 6500's or do they slot straight in?

How would I wire the tweeters to the woofers? would I need to unscrew the door panel trim?

Is there an adaptor for the existing plug from the HU, or would I have to cut the wires and solder them onto the new speakers?

Thanks

Jono

jono,

The only trimming is a bit of metal work in the door proper - when you take out the OE speakers, you need to remove the circular peice of foam which will be right in front of you. The metal work is a bracket that holds the front window channel in place - the top of the channel needs to be cut off with some tin snips. DO NOT try and whack it or bend it as it may put the window channel out of alignment!

The door cards (or trims) need to be loosened to get the crossovers in - first, remove the tweeter housing by gently pulling on it. Unplug the connector to the tweeter.

Next, pull the electric window/mirror switch assembly out: pull the door handle back and it should come away fairly easily. The phillips screw behind it needs to come out. don't worry if it drops down the door card, it will come out when you loosen it later. That whole little section just heeds lifting slightly to enable the door card to come away later.

Next are the torx screws - front, rear and bottom of the trim. With these out, it's possible to release the door card enough to slide in the crossovers and wiring.

To get the tweeters in the factory mount: prise the original tweeters gently with a flat bladed screwdriver - it should just pop out. Next, the grille needs to come off the Infinity tweeter. More caeful use of aforementioned screwdriver! The infinity will slot in but a bit of glue/mastic across the back just to hold it in place would help.

You wire the tweets and woofers direct to the crossover

(The crossovers have screw terminals, so no soldering required! ) and then wire the feed from the HU via the OE lead. Autoleads make an adapter plug (PC2-805,

Thankyou.

topclass walkthrough!

Unfortunately other thing are on my mind now :(