Hi there,

 

Last October I posted a question about a whining noise and strange metallic grating noise my 2015 4X4 Yeti was making.

Its been a very long road indeed, but yesterday I finally got my car back from the seller. they had it for 2 months!

They replaced the clutch and flywheel (that was warped), rebuilt the gearbox and transfer box. All at their expense.

So I took it out and great, no more strange metallic grinding noise at 2000RPM, but to my complete horror the whining noise at 60 MPH still exists! even though they assured me that the car was noise free.

Given that they have carried out all this work,  what can it be, and is it a problem? The seller is now trying to tell me that because its a 4X4 that's just the sound these cars make, but I'm not buying that at all. They are being quite sniffy now s as far as they are concerned the car is fixed. I disagree so they are sending an independent engineer to assess the car.

 

If any one has any ideas at all I would greatly appreciate your feedback.

 

Jo

Hi Jo

I have a 4x4 Yeti, albeit a L&K 2.0 TDI 170 manual. However mine doesn't make a whining noise at 60 mph! The 4x4 haldex system only engages when the front wheels lose grip, which would not be the case whilst cruising at 60mph. I think the seller is 'fobbing you off'. Might it be a wheel bearing or tyre problem??

Hi Martin,

Thank you for your response. I am certain I am being fobbed off, of course a whining noise is not a characteristic of the model that would be ridiculous. But the question has to be asked to rule it out.

In the early days I replaced all tyres to Coopers, which I had on my previous Yeti, and that made no difference to the noise. Various mechanics have ruled out wheel barings, I am inclined to think that perhaps it is a bearing somewhere however.

The problem is that the car always had 2 issues. The metallic grating noise was almost dismissed from the start as it seemed that I was the only person who could hear it! Therefore they have concentrated on finding the source of the whining noise. When the gearbox oil was discovered to be black and glittery it was assumed that this was the sourse of the whining noise as it was the most prominent noise. But clearly that was in fact the metallic grating noise, as it has now gone. So tick that's fixed.

I have now had 5 months of trouble getting this issue resolved, I have asked multiple times for a full refund but that is always ignored. To get the work done thus far I have had to threaten them with the Consumer trades act. This is all so frustrating as the car is lovely, but currently I have no enjoyment when driving it, unless there's a good sound on the radio then I can Ostridge for a while and drown it out!

To be fair the seller has done some other work in an attempt to return me to a happy customer, but that was supposed to be in addition to having a fault free car, which it is not.

 

Jo

There's a thread on here somewhere about the electric fuel pump whining, but that wouldn't just be at 60 mph.  There was another thread about the rubber coupling from the driveshaft to the rear haldex unit failing causing noise and juddering at 60 or above.  I believe the driveshaft to then Haldex is connected all the time and spinning all the time.  The electronics in the haldex just connect this to the rear wheels when required using the second clutch in the haldex.  In fact I think I read somewhere here that the rear wheels get a small amount of power in a number of circumstances, such as starting off with the steering wheel turned (e.g. pulling out of a T junction), and also at high speed.

 

So possibilities of the driveshaft to the haldex being imbalanced/damaged or the coupling to the haldex beginning to degrade might be worth checking.  Is it just a whining or is there any vibration/other minor noises.  Does the whining change frequency at all with speed?

Hi Widdershins,

Thank you for your helpful suggestions.

To put some bones on the symptoms, the noise starts at around 58 mpg, then carries on until around 63 mpg, and then goes. I can also hear it very faintly at around 30 mph. I have noticed that it seems louder/more intense during deceleration, although that could just be because there is less engine noise. The noise does definitely build,  getting louder and then tailing off. I haven't noticed any vibration at all. When I first noticed it, it was really quiet, but I do believe that it is getting worse, in that it is louder at its loudest, and lasts for longer, ie, starting earlier and carrying on for longer. It is also drowned out by noisy road sound. But it does do it on all road surfaces, most noticeable on smooth flat ones.

In the early days the Skoda garage who were helping me with the diagnosis, ruled out a problem with the Haldex pump as it didn't exhibit any symptoms during start off when turning. They also said that if it was the Haldex pump then the noise would be all the time. Which it is not.

 

Jo

 

If you can hear it slightly at 30 and again at 60 to me that suggests something is imbalanced and at the parts resonant frequency the noise is worse.  My guess is that if you were to drive at around 90 mph you'd hear it get loud again.  You said they'd checked the haldex pump, but did they check the rubber coupling from the driveshaft going into the haldex from the front?  I found the thread I was thinking of, it has a photo of the coupling showing how it can come apart with age.

 

Edited 17 February, 20206 yr by widdershins

Hi widdershins,

 

Hmmmm, I don't think this is the same. I have as you suggested driven it at 90mpg and no noise. Also I do not get any juddering or vibration. I have noticed that if I have a heavy load in the car then the noise lessens. Still there but quieter. Also, when decelerating with the foot off the accelerator, just slowing down naturally, the noise seems louder, more throbby and carries on until around 40mpg. 

It has been suggested that it may be a wheel bearing, not seated correctly. It has just past its MOT, so cant be worn. I am told that you can back the bolt off a bit and then retighten to the correct torque setting, and thus reset the bearing. Has anyone had experience of this?

 

Jo