Alternator//Dynamo Removing Felicia nov 1999

[jawi]

in the ongoing saga of the alternator which its warninglight is burning whilst driving i came to the conclusion to remove it and bring away to some one who can give it an overhaul , but i can remove it.

i unbolted it; 2 bolts

but i cannt get the drivebelt of it

i cannt release the tension on the belt because i cant move the alternator

the alternator cannt be moved like on this picture img 3699a jpeg

but the drivebelt is not fitted like in the drawing in the next picture img 3698a

the drivebelt is over pulley 2, in my car

i see no way to release the tension on the drivebelt to remove the alternator

maybe i have to unbolt a pulley

but which pulley i can remove safely??

haynes gives no solution

[J.R.]

Cut it off and you will soon see what was imparting the tension.

 

Normally its pulley 4 which is rotated by a spanner to release the tension, does your belt not run around that pulley?

 

It is possible that it may have been refitted on the wrong side of the idler pulley and there is no movement left in the tensioner, if so I would cut it off.

 

After removing a belt its very easy to not recall or see how it should be refitted, access and visibility are very limited.

 

I have a spare shorter belt for mine to be fitted when the aircon pump packs up, it takes a different route uisng the other pulleys and its always a head scratcher

Edited 21 February, 2020 by J.R.

[jawi]

cut what off? the drivebelt? looks like very overdone

read somewhere maybe release tension on pulley 4 with spanner

[RicardoM]

2 hours ago, jawi said:

haynes gives no solution

Haynes manual is a joke.

 

Does your car have air conditioning?

[jawi]

aha you postedited your post

yeah pulley 4 is the variable one

thought the same about wrong refitted

the mecanic working for the former owner made some more mistakes i saw

1 minute ago, RicardoM said:

Haynes manual is a joke.

 

Does your car have air conditioning?

no airconditioning

but powersteering

[RicardoM]

 

[jawi]

the drivebelt scheme is as in the diagram above in my topic, except for pulley 2 over vs under

so ii go for using a spanner on pulley 4

[jawi]

4 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

 

i dont have that bracket in my car

uppermounting is a kinda clamp thru which the upperbolt goed

the lowerbolt is in a construction with powersteeringpump

but i go for a spanner on pulley 4

[J.R.]

52 minutes ago, jawi said:

the drivebelt scheme is as in the diagram above in my topic, except for pulley 2 over vs under

so ii go for using a spanner on pulley 4

 

Wise man!

 

If it wont budge then cut the belt off and I expect it will return to its unloaded position with a bang!

 

Having myself tried to fit the belt on the wrong side of the pulley it takes a very determined man and one who will not accept that he could be wrong 🤣

[J.R.]

On my vehicle its very hard to get anough swing on the spanner to move the pulley enough from above, easier from below after removing undertrays etc but in either case you really need a second trusting person to put the belt in position or be an octopus.

[J.R.]

Check the belt very carefully because the grooved part will have been running against a flat rather than grooved pulley and may be damaged.

[jawi]

thanks for all the ideas

i have this car already for some 60,000 km and beltgrooves look allright

maybe the cause off all the problems with the alternator

we will never know

i go for the overhaul

[J.R.]

I too was thinking that, surely it will only take a few minutes to refit the belt correctly or a new one then run the engine to see if the light goes out?

[jawi]

brought alternator to mecanic whom changed the carbonbristels (?)

he told me that warninglight is now only vagely burning

and the alternator makes a humming sound, he suspects that the cupper windings start to corrode and the diodes are failing

i managed to open the alternator

cupperwindings are okidoki

diodes gives different readings: measured from within inside the housing 2 give a reading, two dont give micro-amp reading

measured from the outside, al 4 (?) give (?X) Ohm reading of 100

before removing alternator i had to cut the multidrivebelt, so have to buy new one

btw engine is 6U5, so looks a 1.6MPI

 

 

[RicardoM]

jawi

Try Google Translate. It will produce a much better English. Then we'll be able to comment because I (kind of) see many errors.

[jawi]

yeah thats my stonecoal english as we say in dutch

to lazy to make an effort translating

but thanks

[RicardoM]

12 hours ago, RicardoM said:

Then we'll be able to comment because I (kind of) see many errors.

I was referring to diagnose errors made by the mechanic that looked at your alternator.

16 hours ago, jawi said:

btw engine is 6U5, so looks a 1.6MPI

6U5 is a body code for Combi / Estate / Break / Wagon cars. It has nothing to do with a 1.6 MPI engine. By the way, according to you your car has a 1.3 MPI engine.

[StevesTruck]

If it's a 1.6, pulley number 4 in the diagram is the tensioner. From dim and distant memory, I think you slip a long 16mm spanner behind the pulley to wind the tension off by pulling against the spring. You'll need a long spanner because that spring means business.

 

It's been like 5 years since I did one though, so I could be a bit out with my advice there.

 

If it's a 1.9d rather than a petrol, good luck... Those engine bays are tight. I think we ended up lowerring the engine down when we did one.

 

Your English is fine. We call the bristles "brushes", I doubt Google would know that. 

 

If you have a new diode pack, you can probably squeeze it in with the alternator in place on a petrol. 

Edited 3 March, 2020 by StevesTruck

[jawi]

decided not to solder the diodepack, far to complecated for me, but to buy a completely new alternator especially when wasnt able to reinstall it, because the whole device its connectionpoints became somehow narrower

split the casing when basing in with rubber hammer and flathead to widen the lot

thanks all for the ideas and help

see you here when the next problem pops up

[jawi]

On 03/03/2020 at 14:13, StevesTruck said:

If it's a 1.6, pulley number 4 in the diagram is the tensioner. From dim and distant memory, I think you slip a long 16mm spanner behind the pulley to wind the tension off by pulling against the spring. You'll need a long spanner because that spring means business.

 

It's been like 5 years since I did one though, so I could be a bit out with my advice there.

 

If it's a 1.9d rather than a petrol, good luck... Those engine bays are tight. I think we ended up lowerring the engine down when we did one.

 

Your English is fine. We call the bristles "brushes", I doubt Google would know that. 

 

If you have a new diode pack, you can probably squeeze it in with the alternator in place on a petrol. 

that nut from tensioner is located on the other end then the rest of the pulleys

direct under the sparkblock