If you look carefully at his videos, you'll see he doesn't work on cars wrecked beyond some limit (bent chassis, bent wheel axles). I've payed very much attention to his methods of working on body structural frames. He doesn't make them stronger than the manufacturer intended to be. I mean, look at the Lamborghini he repaired. It has aluminum parts and composite glued parts... which he tackled like a pro.

I saw this guys videos couple of time, amazing work. What ı can tell from experience the hardest part in this is malong all the junctions perfect. For exemple on my car ı found out that it had a front accident. How do i know both front door do not close perfectly,  they need a little extra "push". Also rust start on some part of the front end. Will take photo about rust formation since ı need to do something about it. 

 

Concerning the car ı left it Yesterday and got the gasket and bolts. The seller also told me to change the manifold gasket(do you guys know about this?

 

Also ı talked with the mecanic he told me the the cylinder head look good but it look like it rust/rotter in the middle between cylinder 2 and 3 manifold side. He told me he will check with the rectifier(metal working bench) if the tolerences are good enough. 

 

Lastly the seller of the gasket told me there were the best gasket on the market. I asker for oem and he told these were oem(temca). Any idea about this? 

 

For the cost of the gasket : 10eur for cylinder, 3.5 eur for manifold, 18.5 eur for bolts. 

 

Photos bellow:

Photo of the engine bay

Temac is good but i know that victor reinz is better.

Was there any damage to the resulting head gasket.

 

Errors of my engine

Edited 24 March, 20206 yr by mturgut

50 minutes ago, Naboula01 said:

The seller also told me to change the manifold gasket(do you guys know about this?

It is the smaller one in the kit you bought. For intake and exhaust. Mandatory to change it.

52 minutes ago, Naboula01 said:

Lastly the seller of the gasket told me there were the best gasket on the market. I asker for oem and he told these were oem(temca). Any idea about this? 

It is good.

 

The old gasket tells you where the leak was. My guess is between cylinder 2 and 3 combustion chambers.

Now, the entire success of the job depends on few key things:

• clean well the head and the block
• measure carefully the straightness of the head and block !! (max. 0.03 mm) and also look for corrosion
• grind the valve seats if necessary
• clean the holes and threads of the block for the head bolts
• torque the head bolts in recommended order, in 3 stages (20 Nm, 90 degrees, 90 degrees)

54 minutes ago, mturgut said:

Temac is good but i know that victor reinz is better.

Was there any damage to the resulting head gasket.

 

Errors of my engine

Mr Turgut it look like you have a problem on the 3 cylinder. There is no carbon depozit on it and rust. You should check the spark plug/cable.

 

Ricardo, ı talked and informed the mecanic about the 3 stages of tightening. He will also send the upper block to check any deformation and impurity/rust. 

right guess

I repaired last year.

3. cylinder metal seal rot.

very good now

6 hours ago, Naboula01 said:

I saw this guys videos couple of time, amazing work. What ı can tell from experience the hardest part in this is malong all the junctions perfect. For exemple on my car ı found out that it had a front accident. How do i know both front door do not close perfectly,  they need a little extra "push". Also rust start on some part of the front end. Will take photo about rust formation since ı need to do something about it. 

 

Concerning the car ı left it Yesterday and got the gasket and bolts. The seller also told me to change the manifold gasket(do you guys know about this?

 

Also ı talked with the mecanic he told me the the cylinder head look good but it look like it rust/rotter in the middle between cylinder 2 and 3 manifold side. He told me he will check with the rectifier(metal working bench) if the tolerences are good enough. 

 

Lastly the seller of the gasket told me there were the best gasket on the market. I asker for oem and he told these were oem(temca). Any idea about this? 

 

For the cost of the gasket : 10eur for cylinder, 3.5 eur for manifold, 18.5 eur for bolts. 

 

Photos bellow:

 

dare I say that this head does not really need skimming?
just a very good clean with abrasive sponge 

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

dare I say that this head does not really need skimming?
just a very good clean with abrasive sponge 

Don't dare based on a photo. We're talking about hundredths of mm maximum loss of flatness.

So, I got the car yesterday. The job seems good and he replaced all the bolts. I asked him a couple of photos during the process and thankfully he didn't forgot !!!

 

As it can be seen on photos cylinder 2 and 3 had a bad time (rust). He also changed the oil and oil filter and the spark plugs as I was already planning to do so. As expected the Cylinder Head wasn't bent.

 

Now that the HGF has been repaired the rough idling/misfire is totally GONE !!!! (YEY!!) Also I felt like a slight increase in power, I mean it is jus a feel and I am not sure it increased yet. I climb a slope everyday and it seemed it did better than previously, not quicker but lets say easier. Lastly, Normally the temp gauge would take only 5 min to heat up with the HGF but now it took around 10 min in middle traffic.

 

Last point I want to discuss, is I had a rattling noise when the clutch wasn't pressed (They were a post about it I was expecting to check it later) it also disapeared !!! (Weird but cool !!! ) Couldn't find it now, I will try to put a link later, but it was basically about a moving part inside the Gearbox.

 

PS : Since I am at it I want to check the gearbox oil, someone told me it is checked though the speedometer gear on the gearbox. Is it right ?

 

So here are the photos :

35 minutes ago, Naboula01 said:

As it can be seen on photos cylinder 2 and 3 had a bad time (rust).

Normally, a good mechanic should add a small quantity of engine oil on top of the pistons. Obviously after cleaning the top of the pistons of carbon deposits...

Some of the valves look baked with carbon deposits too. Overall it looks like a quick and cheap job. Let's hope the gasket will hold. You'll know it in the summer under load.

42 minutes ago, Naboula01 said:

Also I felt like a slight increase in power, I mean it is jus a feel and I am not sure it increased yet.

Sure, no more compression loss between cylinders but also setting the valves' clearance helped.

44 minutes ago, Naboula01 said:

PS : Since I am at it I want to check the gearbox oil, someone told me it is checked though the speedometer gear on the gearbox. Is it right ?

People, don't forget there is a dedicated section called Classic Skoda Guides. You'll find inside lots of DIY jobs.

 

What is black matter on the cylinder head.

 

Last point I want to discuss, is I had a rattling noise when the clutch wasn't pressed (They were a post about it I was expecting to check it later) it also disapeared !!! (Weird but cool !!! ) Couldn't find it now, I will try to put a link later, but it was basically about a moving part inside the Gearbox.

 

If the sound is cut when the clutch system is pressed, it is a bearing fault. (output shaft bearing)

Edited 26 March, 20206 yr by mturgut

Yes Mr Turgut, but the noise just disapeared.

 

Ricardo thanks for the post !

Ricardo, I really don't know if he cleaned or not the deposit on the cylinders and valves. By the ways how this might affect the car ? 

 

I am opening a new post about the drum brake since the mecanix told me it needed a replacement, as the handbrake doesn't work, but the brakes are fine. He told me the drums have rust and are not usable. 

 

About thğis post I will keep it updated if there is anything new concerning the Head Gasket/engine.

Rattling noise may have just been because of increased engine imbalnce and vibration in turn caused by imperfect combustions in cylinders 2 and 3.

Just now, Wino said:

Rattling noise may have just been because of increased engine imbalnce and vibration in turn caused by imperfect combustions in cylinders 2 and 3.

I would agree. But the thing is it was rattling in neutral and other gears, when the clutch is engages the rattling stopped. So ı presine mostly something between the clutch and gearbox is doing it.

If it doesn't happen now there's probably nothing seriously wrong.

Edited 26 March, 20206 yr by Wino

1 hour ago, Naboula01 said:

But the thing is it was rattling in neutral and other gears, when the clutch is engages the rattling stopped. So ı presine mostly something between the clutch and gearbox is doing it.

It is classic for Favorit and Felicia before 1998. Primary shaft bearings are worn out. The rattle gets louder when it's colder outside.

1 hour ago, Naboula01 said:

Ricardo, I really don't know if he cleaned or not the deposit on the cylinders and valves. By the ways how this might affect the car ? 

Carbon deposits on top of the piston get incandescent and could ignite the fuel mixture before spark ignition. That could result in knocks which are damaging for the engine. The same thing goes about valves, except the carbon deposits could also prevent valves from closing properly.

I Presume he cleaned the pistons and valves. I say presume because it is the logical thing to do and the guy looked honnest so... Since I wasn't with him when he replaced the Gasket I cannot say what he did exactly. Let's just hope for the best... 

2 hours ago, Naboula01 said:

Yes Mr Turgut, but the noise just disapeared.

 

Ricardo thanks for the post !

Ricardo, I really don't know if he cleaned or not the deposit on the cylinders and valves. By the ways how this might affect the car ? 

 

I am opening a new post about the drum brake since the mecanix told me it needed a replacement, as the handbrake doesn't work, but the brakes are fine. He told me the drums have rust and are not usable. 

 

About thğis post I will keep it updated if there is anything new concerning the Head Gasket/engine.

Must be the bearing that appears at 6:54 minutes. (left bearing)

I'm only guessing.

ricardo can know the truth.

 

 

6 hours ago, mturgut said:

ricardo can know the truth.

It is the bearing he is touching at 6:59 and the one at the opposite side of the same shaft (not shown in the video).

One other thing to mention is that the type of gearbox shown in the video is not in fact the one that rattles (code 10S). In the video it is the reinforced type (code 14SK).

14 hours ago, RicardoM said:

It is the bearing he is touching at 6:59 and the one at the opposite side of the same shaft (not shown in the video).

One other thing to mention is that the type of gearbox shown in the video is not in fact the one that rattles (code 10S). In the video it is the reinforced type (code 14SK).

Probably 10S in my transmission code.

would it be a problem if I open it with the help of this video.

I think to do it in the summer.

9 hours ago, mturgut said:

Probably 10S in my transmission code.

would it be a problem if I open it with the help of this video.

I think to do it in the summer.

dont bother, change the oil, fix the slack in the gear shifter, and be done with it
you wont be able to find replacment parts and more so a proper machine shop to help you extract the bearings

10 hours ago, mturgut said:

would it be a problem if I open it with the help of this video.

Won't be a problem to open it. The fun will start after that. You need all kind of pullers, a good press, and good knowledge. So far there isn't a video that shows how to refurbish the gearbox on Favorit/Felicia from A to Z.

14 hours ago, RicardoM said:

Won't be a problem to open it. The fun will start after that. You need all kind of pullers, a good press, and good knowledge. So far there isn't a video that shows how to refurbish the gearbox on Favorit/Felicia from A to Z.

Yeah exactly that's the problem