Has anyone replaced their own shoes/drums?

[Ootohere]

@globalste  Was it a Brake Fluid change that you paid for that was carried out.

The Manufacturers recommendation was a Brake fluid change at 3 years so 2017. then each 2 years, so again in 2019. 

[globalste]

wheel came off easily, used a screwdriver to slacken off the brake shoe tension and then... well, the drum was solid on still.  Had to welly it with a hammer onto a block of wood to get it to shift.  I was fearing the worst, but this is what it looked like before I cleaned it up inside.  Quite a bit left on the shoes I thought?  I was expecting them to be down to the backing plate.

 

Gave it a good clean inside, loads of dust and crap came out.  Gave the inside edges a wire brush and clean and also gave the drum a thorough clean, then wire brush and rust treated the outside of the drum and then gave it a new coat of calliper paint.  Plenty of copper grease during reassembly.  I hope that adjuster pin settles, i guess it will take a few presses of the brakes.

 

 

Brake Fluid:  It's been done as per additional service item as you mentioned, except it was also done accidentally as well in 2018 because they misread the service history, but they didn't charge me when I said it wasn't required.

 

 

Edited 14 April, 2020 by globalste
wheel, not well

[Breezy_Pete]

Did you try moving the handbrake inside the car a little while everything was visible, to check that the pivot in the mechanism at the drum isn't seized?

This shows itself usually by poor handbrake efficiency and a very 'off-straight' spreader bar inside the car where one cable becomes two, just aft of the handbrake lever.

 

The pivot is the 'rivetty-looking' thing just to the right of the wheel cylinder in your photo. 

 

11 minutes ago, globalste said:

Gave the inside edges a wire brush and clean

Inside edges of what?

[globalste]

I did think about operating the handbrake because I wondered if the pivot assembly would have seized, but I was half worried the brake shoe assembly would somehow fold in on itself and spit all the springs out onto my driveway.  I did move the adjuster pin about and brushed a teeny bit of copper grease on it.  As it happens, I think the handbrake has always been a bit "graunchy" like when your mountain bike cables get all gunky and you need to give the inner cable a clean and some rocknroll cable magic lube on it.  I will have a look again tomorrow, it's easy enough to whisk it off now.  Last time I adjusted the handbrake it was reasonably central and it's still on 4 notches to put the handbrake on.  I hate removing that armrest though if I have to adjust it again.

 

I cleaned all of the backing plate etc with brake cleaner and a rag.  And then the inside of the drum it has the braking surface which I just wiped with brake cleaner and the rest of the iron parts (non braking surface) i gently brushed clean and then wiped.

 

If I had all the tools, I think I would probably have a go at just removing everything and replacing it with new, especially as a kit is only £70.  I remember from years of professional cycling, sometimes no amount of stripping and cleaning brakes will give you the sharp braking you once had.

Edited 14 April, 2020 by globalste

[spartacus68]

Good job. Doesn't look too bad, I've definitely seen worse. This was my 2010 Fabia back in 2018 before fitting a new bearing, Delphi shoes, and a spring kit. With the handbrake cover off look at the tensioning yolk. On mine it was pulling to one side and regardless of adjustment I couldn't get it to bakance so ended up having to replace the handbrake cables.

 

You need to jack the car both sides at the rear to test. On a couple of clicks it should engage. With the wheel on, if you can rotate on either side too easily, then you can go back and adjust the wedge on the brake adjuster. The drum should go over the shoe assembly easily with the handbrake released and the 10mm nut undone. My drums were at 100k mikes so basically worn and really needed replaced, but I had Issues with flexible-pipe at the catalytic converter and bailed out and sold it. Typical!

[globalste]

Ah bottom photo looks lovely and shiney!

 

How much of a swine of a job was replacing the handbrake cables?  I was having a quick look at their routing... 😕

Edited 14 April, 2020 by globalste

[spartacus68]

1 hour ago, globalste said:

Ah bottom photo looks lovely and shiney!

 

How much of a swine of a job was replacing the handbrake cables?  I was having a quick look at their routing... 😕

 

Local garage did them, as although I fitted new shoes it still failed MOT on handbrake intolerance. Details here to fit: https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk2/chassis/brake_brake_mechanics/handbrake/removing_and_installing_the_hand-brake_cable/

 

The clips (item B.) either crumble in your fingers with rust or break off. Wire brush and spray with penetrating release first. I don't like working under cars even with axle stands and jacks, but chock the front wheels and get the rear wheels under the car mid-way point for safety. If I'd had more time I reckon I could have fitted them, but at that point I just wanted it through its MOT, seeing as it was already in the garage for the test.

Edited 14 April, 2020 by spartacus68

[globalste]

8 hours ago, spartacus68 said:

 

I don't like working under cars even with axle stands and jacks, but chock the front wheels and get the rear wheels under the car mid-way point for safety. 

 

This was me just checking and cleaning the drum brakes, I don't like putting my more than my hand underneath when it's on stands!  Sounds like the handbrake cable might be a workshop item for me and if they have to pull off the brake shoes then they may as well replace them.

Edited 15 April, 2020 by globalste