So I need to change my front pads since they are really low. Never done it before but do have all the tools it seems. Main question is will I need to bleed to breaks after changing them? Some say you do and don’t. Don’t plan on opening the lines, just intend to push the piston back to put the new greased ones in. If that’s the case should I open the reservoir when pushing it back or will this then require me to bleed them? ŠKODA did a full fluid change back in March so wouldn’t imagine it needs messing with for maintenance purposes. Can’t justify spending 100’s when i can get them cheap and learn a new skill. Many thanks.  :)

No you’ll not need to bleed again mate and if you do take the top off. Just put a rag around it in case it does bubble back up. But it shouldn’t. I’ve never taken the top off when changing pads 

If you had the fluid changed in March it will likely be near the top of the reservoir so be prepared to remove some to avoid overflowing as brake fluid is very corrosive  - as you push each side of each caliper back check the level and if necessary remove some fluid, ideally with a syringe or a piece of tube with your finger over the end but be careful not to let any leak onto paintwork etc.

 

 

Edited 26 May, 20206 yr by octavia5

Cheers guys much appreciated! 😄

As said above, brake fluid is like acid. I always throw an old t shirt / paper towels both around the brake fluid reservoir and also over the wing I'm working across. 

 

Have a syringe to pull some of the brake fluid out, you can get large capacity ones fairly cheap online. Doing it that way will save having to mess about bleeding them.

 

Pull enough out so it goes down to the minimum, but don't go below as that'll possibly get air into the system. Push back the piston carefully and check where the level has gone up to (always useful having another pair of eyes). Change those pads. If the level is back near the max, remove enough again so it's back down to by the minimum. Push that piston up and replace the other sides' pads. Get back into the drivers seat and pump the brakes just to get the pistons where / should be. Refill the brake fluid back up to the maximum level.

 

Throw the cap back on the reservoir and take it for a careful drive round the block. Only needs to be a quick journey (a mile or so), but don't slam on; you need to bed your pads in for a good few hundred miles until they've worn both the protective layer of the top of the pad and until they're worn into the slight grooves on the disc. When you're back, check the level of the brake fluid and top up to the maximum if needs be.

On 27/05/2020 at 10:15, tunedude said:

As said above, brake fluid is like acid. I always throw an old t shirt / paper towels both around the brake fluid reservoir and also over the wing I'm working across. 

 

Have a syringe to pull some of the brake fluid out, you can get large capacity ones fairly cheap online. Doing it that way will save having to mess about bleeding them.

 

Pull enough out so it goes down to the minimum, but don't go below as that'll possibly get air into the system. Push back the piston carefully and check where the level has gone up to (always useful having another pair of eyes). Change those pads. If the level is back near the max, remove enough again so it's back down to by the minimum. Push that piston up and replace the other sides' pads. Get back into the drivers seat and pump the brakes just to get the pistons where / should be. Refill the brake fluid back up to the maximum level.

 

Throw the cap back on the reservoir and take it for a careful drive round the block. Only needs to be a quick journey (a mile or so), but don't slam on; you need to bed your pads in for a good few hundred miles until they've worn both the protective layer of the top of the pad and until they're worn into the slight grooves on the disc. When you're back, check the level of the brake fluid and top up to the maximum if needs be.

 

Fantastic advice. Thank you!!