Hi all

 

I've tried a search but not found the exact answer I'm after.

 

Long story short, I've recently changed my rear discs & pads as I think one or both calipers was slightly binding.

 

I managed to free up the NS one & the handbrake mechanism seems fine that side.

 

I couldn't get the OS to free up so decided to replace the caliper.  It's all back together but the handbrake mechanism doesn't seem to pull the OS brake on. It only pulls a few mm.

 

On tightening the handbrake under the centre console, the collor goes lopsided pretty quickly.

 

The cables all seem free. I have read on here the mechanism may meed re-zeroing but no further info?

 

Anyone got any ideas?

 

Both wheels seem free & brakes & handbrake work, just the different levels on travel of the handbrake mech & lopsided collor makes me think something isn't quite 100%

 

Thanks in advance

Been thinking, would opening the bleed nipple & working the handbrake mechanism by hand help?

 

Not too sure how the hand brake mech works inside the caliper.

 

Any help appreciated

It could be that the handbrake cable is stretched? Had to replace mine due to this. 

 

Did you by a new or used calliper? If its used, you may have purchased one in the same condition as your old one.

 

Can you move the mechanism with your hand?

The cable might be stretched a bit but even disconnected the handbrake mechanism on the caliper hardly moves compared to the other side (when pushing by hand). 

 

The caliper was "new" from carparts4less (although it's a reconditioned one). Now I've removed the old caliper, the mechanism on that one fully moves by hand.

 

I didn't check the new calipers mechanism by hand before fitting as it came with a leaflet saying not to until it was installed & bled. 

 

Really can't figure it out. 

 

The lopsided collar on the handbrake adjuster, stays short on the new caliper side.

You'll have to take it off and check that the piston is fully wound back before trying again, if it still doesn't move then send it back.

If the self adjusting mechanism on the caliper is working OK then the lever will only move through say 5 or 10 degrees, you will be gettng more like 30+ degrees on the one where the compensator is moving forward.

 

You will also likely have spongy brakes.

 

With the engine running is the brake pedal much firmer when the handbrake is pulled up hard?

It came with this leaflet.

 

I unwound it (using a caliper winding tool) half a turn before fitting. But, the piston was too far out to fit over the new pads & disc.  I turned it back in about quater of a turn & managed to just get it over the pads.

 

Could this be the issue? With it now installed/bled, should I remove, wind back in, refit, pump brakes then reconnect handbrake cable?

 

I'll have to wait til tomorrow to check any sponginess with the handbrake on & engine running. I did a short test drive & there was a bit more travel than before. I did bleed all four corners & put this down to needing a bit to bed in a bit. 

 

The caliper on the other side (which is 16yrs old) moves a good 30 degrees. The new one moves less than 5 I'd say.

 

I don't quite know how the mechanism works inside? The compensator you mention, presumably moves due to pad wear? With new pads & discs both sides, wouldn't both mechanisms move the same amount?

 

Also, both have return springs fitted.

 

 

Yes, yes and yes.

 

Did you actually read my post?

2 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Yes, yes and yes.

 

Did you actually read my post?

Yes I did - thank you.

 

Can you please explain what is happening? The old caliper mechanism moves off the car, as in it moves the piston out, but on the car with the new pads & discs it didn't. (I initially just changed discs & pads but had the same issue). I assumed something was up as a binding caliper was an MOT advisory a couple of years ago so bought the new caliper to save thr hassle of refurbing it.

 

Is it a possibility that I didn't wind it all the way in before refitting?

 

Yes, you fitted it too tight, you need to remove the pads and wind the piston all the way back in then refit it and allow the mechanism to adjust itself during use.

Ok thanks. Once wound back and refitted, does it matter what order I pump the footbrake or operate the handbrake? 

I say the problem is with the other one with 30° of movement.

 

Been there, done that, got the T shirt.

 

It may be a little too close the way he has done it but if it doesn't bind it will soon wear and the self adjuster will work as it should, problem of compensator angling over and long pedal travel is from the other caliper.

 

Often the handbrake cable is overadjusted on the bad side in order to hold the vehicle and also remove some of the long pedal, this can be witnessed by the caliper lever not returning to its stop like on the good one.

This may be a stupid question, once the caliper is wound in, does it matter what is done first? Pump the brake pedal, fit & remove skack from handbrake cable or operate handbrake mechanism?

It doesn't matter.

Always fit Skoda branded rear brake cables.I learnt to my cost I fitted pattern ones,and I was continually having to adjust at the splitter at the rear of the hand brake lever.The handbrake lever handle was in a higher position every few months.  I found out that the correct skoda inner rear brake cable was a larger diameter! The pattern part  cable was continually getting longer.

On 08/06/2020 at 23:50, J.R. said:

I say the problem is with the other one with 30° of movement.

 

Been there, done that, got the T shirt.

 

It may be a little too close the way he has done it but if it doesn't bind it will soon wear and the self adjuster will work as it should, problem of compensator angling over and long pedal travel is from the other caliper.

 

Often the handbrake cable is overadjusted on the bad side in order to hold the vehicle and also remove some of the long pedal, this can be witnessed by the caliper lever not returning to its stop like on the good one.

 

Only posting as it might help someone.

 

I think there was some truth in this. I've now changed both rear calipers. Handbrake is much better, as it should be. Even pull on each cable. Both calipers return as expected & have the same amount of travel to engage the handbrake. Only a few mm or degrees of rotation. 

 

There must have been something broken inside on the handbrake mech, may be a c clip or something. Fingerscrossed the new calipers last another 16 years! 

pleased to hear that, I stripped mine several times & never found anything amiss, finally fitted some very cheap calipers from China & like you all was then well.

 

It will remain a mystery.

@delroy, now that things are working as they  should, have you ever considered fitting external lever return springs?  I did that to my wife's previous 2002 Polo and again to her 2015 Polo when it was new, although on the 2015 Polo it feels that a bit stronger internal springs had been fitted, either way I know that the levers should return to the mechanical stops when the handbrake is off, although in theory the plan seems to be to have them "just" stopping off these mechanical stops.

6 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

@delroy, now that things are working as they  should, have you ever considered fitting external lever return springs?  I did that to my wife's previous 2002 Polo and again to her 2015 Polo when it was new, although on the 2015 Polo it feels that a bit stronger internal springs had been fitted, either way I know that the levers should return to the mechanical stops when the handbrake is off, although in theory the plan seems to be to have them "just" stopping off these mechanical stops.

Yeah, got them fitted already.