Any additional jacking points?

[Koreenium]

Does any of you know any additional safe jacking points for Rapid? 

Or perhaps any good tips on how to get it onto jack stands using the 4 jacking points?

 

I need to get under the car but I don't trust lifting the front left corner up with just a floor jack and then working under the car. I don't need it to fall on my face which is already ugly enough.

[inspectorman]

Sadly no replies here yet for you; I too have failed to find a good photo of the underside of a Rapid to help you. The front is straightforward; behind the front wheel an in about a foot or more are some solid structures connecting the body to the engine subframe. These solid structures will take the weight of the front end.

 

The back end is a little trickier. It's tempting to use the central tube / bar connecting both sides, but you run the risk of permanently deforming it. Here I would get under the base of the spring; preferably with a wooden pad or rubber puck. If you're not happy with that, then use the central tube right up against the end.

 

[MickA]

I've used the points mentioned for front (axle stands) after getting the car jacked up via front sill jack points. For the rears I again jack at the rear sill point and do use that cross beam but at the very outer edges I place the stands, it seems strong enough no flex.

Edited 5 July, 2020 by MickA

[Koreenium]

Thanks for the help guys!

 

I was looking for photos but also had trouble finding any. I did eventually find some but managed to lose them.

 

One of the things I am planning to do is change rear shocks and bushings. This makes it bit more difficult but I should be able to get it up on the stands now.

[MickA]

55 minutes ago, Koreenium said:

Thanks for the help guys!

 

I was looking for photos but also had trouble finding any. I did eventually find some but managed to lose them.

 

One of the things I am planning to do is change rear shocks and bushings. This makes it bit more difficult but I should be able to get it up on the stands now.

 

Hmm.... Maybe not place the axle stands under that rear cross beam then, you'll need to lower that to get the springs or shocks off. I'd jack on that then place the stands (with suitable pucks or a wedge of wood) under the sill jack point.

[Koreenium]

18 hours ago, MickA said:

 

Hmm.... Maybe not place the axle stands under that rear cross beam then, you'll need to lower that to get the springs or shocks off. I'd jack on that then place the stands (with suitable pucks or a wedge of wood) under the sill jack point.

Yes, I was thinking that. I really needed to know some extra spots just to jack up the car and then use sill jack points for jack stands.

[rum4mo]

There will be 4 - off "strong enough" points under the car to use a trolley jack with a spreader pad on it,  look for the 4 - off round hardish plastic bungs - not soft rubberish bungs - they tend to have a countersink groove on the surface, that is where you can permanently fit Audi TT MK1 Jacking Point protectors, the front ones are inboard of the sill and towards the front of the car form the official jacking point, the rear ones are again inboard of the sill and towards the rear of the car.  For the axle stands you will need to make up or buy slotted blocks with HD rubber on the top - and use under the official jacking points.

 

If you are going to keep this car for a while, the Audi TT jacking pads are for handy, well at least for me as I have 2 trolley jacks that have small lifting cup that fits these jacking pads exactly,  they let you grab a trolley jack look underneath and quickly place the jack's cup below 2 of these points and lift one side up at a time, then slip in a couple of axle stands and repeat on the other side.  

 

These 4 - off strongish points are only there for factory use when moving the bodies around, but as soon as Audi started  using them to ease lifting the TT, lots of people used them on cars up to the Golf etc weight/size range. I've hd absolutely no issues with using them since they became available or on my radar, since maybe 2004 onwards, I had to buy a new set for my wife's 2015 Polo when we bought it as I had left it too late to start trying to remove them from her old 2002 Polo.

 

Edit:- I've spent a bit of time making up suitable axle/jack stand padded adapters for both my cars, each one slightly different as the body profile at or near the jacking points are different on different models, but in each case I've made a point of only using the vertical folded seam as a locator and kept the weight of my cars mainly on the flat area behind the sill and some on the front of the sill, though the area supporting the front or outer area is really only being used to improve stability should any of the other 3 supporting points want to induce any tilting. I'm just trying to keep things safe while also protecting my cars while working under them. My load spreaders are slightly longer than the jacking points.  I stopped lifting my cars at a single point years ago as I don't like stressing the frame welds any more than they see in normal daily use.

Edited 6 July, 2020 by rum4mo

[Koreenium]

5 hours ago, rum4mo said:

There will be 4 - off "strong enough" points under the car to use a trolley jack with a spreader pad on it,  look for the 4 - off round hardish plastic bungs - not soft rubberish bungs - they tend to have a countersink groove on the surface, that is where you can permanently fit Audi TT MK1 Jacking Point protectors, the front ones are inboard of the sill and towards the front of the car form the official jacking point, the rear ones are again inboard of the sill and towards the rear of the car.  For the axle stands you will need to make up or buy slotted blocks with HD rubber on the top - and use under the official jacking points.

 

If you are going to keep this car for a while, the Audi TT jacking pads are for handy, well at least for me as I have 2 trolley jacks that have small lifting cup that fits these jacking pads exactly,  they let you grab a trolley jack look underneath and quickly place the jack's cup below 2 of these points and lift one side up at a time, then slip in a couple of axle stands and repeat on the other side.  

 

These 4 - off strongish points are only there for factory use when moving the bodies around, but as soon as Audi started  using them to ease lifting the TT, lots of people used them on cars up to the Golf etc weight/size range. I've hd absolutely no issues with using them since they became available or on my radar, since maybe 2004 onwards, I had to buy a new set for my wife's 2015 Polo when we bought it as I had left it too late to start trying to remove them from her old 2002 Polo.

 

Edit:- I've spent a bit of time making up suitable axle/jack stand padded adapters for both my cars, each one slightly different as the body profile at or near the jacking points are different on different models, but in each case I've made a point of only using the vertical folded seam as a locator and kept the weight of my cars mainly on the flat area behind the sill and some on the front of the sill, though the area supporting the front or outer area is really only being used to improve stability should any of the other 3 supporting points want to induce any tilting. I'm just trying to keep things safe while also protecting my cars while working under them. My load spreaders are slightly longer than the jacking points.  I stopped lifting my cars at a single point years ago as I don't like stressing the frame welds any more than they see in normal daily use.

 

That's very interesting. I'll definitely check these spots out. Might also explain why I found quite a lot of discussion regarding these Audi TT jacking pads and points. Thank you!

 

[J.R.]

That diagram may have finally resolved the mystery that I had on my MK2 Octavia, I too was looking for jacking points.

 

I recall seeing the factory lift points at the rear and at the front in the position shown on the diagram were 2 round brittle plastic shields with a flat edge, they were let into and flush with those stupid plastic insulator shields which get broken if you use axle stands on the cill seam, I very nearly jacked up on them thinking they were metal.

 

I think I levered one out and there was the round pressed cup shape donut underneath, I could not understand why it was there and why they went to the expense of covering it, being a factory lift point makes complete sense.

 

Now I have to look & see if the Yeti has them and either make or buy some adaptors for my trolley jacks.

[rum4mo]

@J.R., you are lucky, I thought all the Golf/Leon/Octavia/A3 owners needed to retrofit these parts, or maybe earlier cars got that fitted at factory, which sounds a bit weird as I didn’t think any VW Group marque encouraged their use for lifting - that was just smart diner users that did that.

[J.R.]

I will need to retrofit the rubber parts, I was describing the plastic cap covering the metal location piece spot welded to the floorpan.

 

The bits are expensive but there is something very cheap on Ali-Express for a Tesla which might fit or could be modified, I may give then a try but only if the Yeti has the same lifting points.

[rum4mo]

@J.R., is there not an official replacement plastic cover that has the same effectively as the Audi TT hard plastic peg that gets driven up into the rubber protector, and something else for the rear points?

[J.R.]

My Octavia 2 has those OE covers fitted and I once nearly made the mistake of jacking on them.

 

If the Yeti has the same set up I want to replace them with hard rubber adaptors that I can jack under, there is only one place at the front of the car to place an axle stand safely and its the only safe place to jack as well, I dont like lifting on the sill in order to use the axle stand under the suspension point, those 4 factory lifting points seem to be the answer.

 

At the rear its not so bad as I have a towbar that I can jack under. At the front its the undertray that causes all the grief.

[rum4mo]

@J.R., just to let you see what some people are fitting to their Mk3 SEAT Leons in case it offers the same replacement cover that would fit your Octavia.

 

https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/has-anyone-installed-jack-pads-on-their-mk3.458621/#post-4905201

[Koreenium]

I looked under the car and I noticed that in the rear there are two holes on each side.

 

These Audi TT lifting pads 8N0804583 (+ 8N0803855) should fit just fine in the rear. But alternative to the rear could perhaps be 8V0802847A??? Not 100% sure.

 

 

Corrected version:

 

 

[Hamlet5]

Is the rear beam that weak, you cant use it for jacking the car up?

[MickA]

It's a fairly meaty piece of metal, place axle stands as close to the hub/suspension each side as you can, I have without any twisting etc. To get the stands under I jack on the sill jacking points, I use a trolley jack.

[Hamlet5]

Thanks Mick, in time i may just weld a brace across it centrally.

[Warrior193]

@Hamlet5 are you sure that's a good idea? That could significantly change the twist-rate of the beam axle.

[Hamlet5]

2 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

@Hamlet5 are you sure that's a good idea? That could significantly change the twist-rate of the beam axle.

Just an idea, why would you want it to twist though? Its an independent rear suspension set up, i would of thought lest twist the better!

[Warrior193]

@Hamlet5 I didn't note that you had a VRS with IRS - I saw the beam axle image in 2nd post and thought you were referring to that type.

[Hamlet5]

23 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

@Hamlet5 I didn't note that you had a VRS with IRS - I saw the beam axle image in 2nd post and thought you were referring to that type.

Hi, ive only had it for a couple of months, so im no expert, and you never stop learning.  I do quite a bit of rallying, so i understand the basics, its a good car to start off with, the only thing ill uprate are the pads and struts/shocks, mind you the headlights are a bit ****, so any tips would be gratefully received,

thanks Terry.