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skoda - 1.2 engine - missing at low revs - po407 code

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Last Week my skoda fabia 2006 started missing at low revs ( between 2K and 3K revs) at high revs it work like a charm. At idle nothing but when it start missing there is still power not like its loosing power as if one of the coils is damaged. I  noticed that it was consuming more fuel than usual not sure if it is related.

 

Then I had  the warning light engine check. Connected my diagnostic tool and got a PO407 error as attached. 

 

Since a service was carried out almost 2 months ago and the fuel filter was replaced, to star off i cleaned the throttle bottle with some cleaner and a cloth which was a bit dirty to be honest. Then i noticed that there was a tube related to the brake booster vacuum host was slightly cracked/damaged. I replaced that since i read it could be the cause, since it will intake air from there. Have checked the fuel cap to make sure it is sealing properly  and added some fuel cleaner with the unleaded to make sure the fuel system is in place.  went for a ride and worked like a charm for a day. 

Now the car starts missing again. any ideas please?    

 

skreading.jpeg

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A 2006 is a Mk1, so this is in the wrong place, I'll ask a moderator to move it.

 

Can you post a photo of the front of your engine, with any engine top cover removed? I'm slightly surprised that a 2006 1.2 even has an EGR valve, as the BME engine code dropped that item in December 2005 to the best of my knowledge. 

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sure wino I will do once i reach home this evening,  since i'm with the other fabia. Could it be mine is a 2005 version since I got mine feb 2006.? 

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Yeah, possibly built before end of Dec 2005 and not registered for a couple of months.

 

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Dear Wino, please find attached engine images. 

today i cam to office with the car and has similar issues. missing is always happening in between 2K and 3K revs 😞

 

 

VIN: TMBHY46Y964471906
6Y52e4

2006 model 

1.2 petrol engine 

eng1.jpeg

eng2.jpeg

eng3.jpeg

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I've edited your first photo a little to point a green arrow at the EGR valve, and put a red box around a port on the PCV valve that you could try experimenting with.

 

186978927_Jojocitysengine.thumb.jpg.ac811b9992862327e13b3e6f7140e95e.jpg

 

 

With engine running try putting a finger over the small hole that I've put a red square around next to where PCV is written.  See if anything changes about the way the engine is idling.

 

The other thing you could try, since the fault code points to an EGR fault, is to unplug the electrical connector from the EGR valve and see how the engine behaviour changes when in the conditions where it was previously having trouble.

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1 hour ago, Wino said:

I've edited your first photo a little to point a green arrow at the EGR valve, and put a red box around a port on the PCV valve that you could try experimenting with.

 

186978927_Jojocitysengine.thumb.jpg.ac811b9992862327e13b3e6f7140e95e.jpg

 

 

With engine running try putting a finger over the small hole that I've put a red square around next to where PCV is written.  See if anything changes about the way the engine is idling.

 

The other thing you could try, since the fault code points to an EGR fault, is to unplug the electrical connector from the EGR valve and see how the engine behaviour changes when in the conditions where it was previously having trouble.

 

 

. So if i got you well, I can go for a small drive with the EGR Valve electrical connection out and check if the fault is still happening. Thanks Wino I will try that and let you know

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That's it. Make sure the drive includes conditions where the bad behaviour was happening.

Be careful not to break the connector latch when you disconnect the EGR. Push the connector firmly onto the valve as you release the latch (you may hear it click open), then pull the connector off/away.

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30 minutes ago, Wino said:

That's it. Make sure the drive includes conditions where the bad behaviour was happening.

Be careful not to break the connector latch when you disconnect the EGR. Push the connector firmly onto the valve as you release the latch (you may hear it click open), then pull the connector off/away.

 

Noted with thanks . I will let you now the outcome 

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19 hours ago, jojocity said:

 

 

. So if i got you well, I can go for a small drive with the EGR Valve electrical connection out and check if the fault is still happening. Thanks Wino I will try that and let you know

 

HI Wino, the following was carried out. 

 

when PCV hole was blocked for a couple of seconds ,  i could here  a low pitched squeak but nothing really happened at idle mode.

 

regarding the  EGR Valve i removed the connector and went for the same drive. to be honest the car was working smoothly even at low revs and no light showed up. will try it again in the next 4hrs or so for a longer drivve to make sure it remains the same. 

 

is this a dirty/damaged EGR Valve? I read this is just a solenoid that could be stuck could it be the case?    

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27 minutes ago, jojocity said:

is this a dirty/damaged EGR Valve? I read this is just a solenoid that could be stuck could it be the case?  

 

I'm not sure really mate, but it does look like the valve is misbehaving in some way, if the car works better when it is disconnected.  Wait for the confirmation on a longer drive before considering what to do, I think.

It is a valve that's driven by a proportional solenoid, with potentiometer position feedback, so a number of faults can occur and be detected by the diagnostics.  The P0NNN generic codes aren't as useful as the VAG-specific numerical codes which you could read with VCDS or a handheld scanner with VAG coverage.

e.g. 16785 flow rate too low

16786 flow rate too high

16788 control difference  

17811 (as above)

17812 basic setting not performed

 

Quite possible that the EGR valve is sticking due to age/wear.  When ours failed in that way it generated one of the control difference codes, can't remember which.  I think it means position indicated by potentiometer doesn't match position requested by electronics.

 

Your PCV valve may have a slight leak, but not significant/critical if it doesn't change engine behaviour when you block that port, I think.

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10 minutes ago, Wino said:

 

I'm not sure really mate, but it does look like the valve is misbehaving in some way, if the car works better when it is disconnected.  Wait for the confirmation on a longer drive before considering what to do, I think.

It is a valve that's driven by a proportional solenoid, with potentiometer position feedback, so a number of faults can occur and be detected by the diagnostics.  The P0NNN generic codes aren't as useful as the VAG-specific numerical codes which you could read with VCDS or a handheld scanner with VAG coverage.

e.g. 16785 flow rate too low

16786 flow rate too high

16788 control difference  

17811 (as above)

17812 basic setting not performed

 

Quite possible that the EGR valve is sticking due to age/wear.  When ours failed in that way it generated one of the control difference codes, can't remember which.  I think it means position indicated by potentiometer doesn't match position requested by electronics.

 

Your PCV valve may have a slight leak, but not significant/critical if it doesn't change engine behaviour when you block that port, I think.

 

Ok Let me go for a longer drive : Malta is what it is in size  but I can easily simulate the fault.  Re PCV its seems that can be easily changed, I will give that a try too. keep you posted 

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On 14/08/2020 at 11:06, Wino said:

 

I'm not sure really mate, but it does look like the valve is misbehaving in some way, if the car works better when it is disconnected.  Wait for the confirmation on a longer drive before considering what to do, I think.

It is a valve that's driven by a proportional solenoid, with potentiometer position feedback, so a number of faults can occur and be detected by the diagnostics.  The P0NNN generic codes aren't as useful as the VAG-specific numerical codes which you could read with VCDS or a handheld scanner with VAG coverage.

e.g. 16785 flow rate too low

16786 flow rate too high

16788 control difference  

17811 (as above)

17812 basic setting not performed

 

Quite possible that the EGR valve is sticking due to age/wear.  When ours failed in that way it generated one of the control difference codes, can't remember which.  I think it means position indicated by potentiometer doesn't match position requested by electronics.

 

Your PCV valve may have a slight leak, but not significant/critical if it doesn't change engine behaviour when you block that port, I think.

Good morning Wino, 

I managed to drive the car for longer periods with the connector for the EGR disconnected with no issues at all and after some time the engine light came up. then i reconnected the EGR cable and again kept driving it till this morning. No issues whatsoever. what i'm guessing is maybe the EGR solenoid got stuck for some time. So far so good and the engine light also went off without any reset. 

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