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Hi everyone! Its time for me to attempt my first service (plugs, oil, filters). Do you have to buy everything separately or can you just call, say TPS, and ask for a service kit?

 

Thanks

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  • It's not for tightening, it's for loosening.   You should tighten a new filter using your hand otherwise it can be too tight and leak.

  • Most of the dealerships I have worked at have always been very conscious of a new sump plug and torque to 30 Nm, then mark to show torqued (and rightly so). On one of my less than co operative days I

  • Gosh, contradictory/inconsistent information in a Haynes manual, whatever next? Show me an oil that meets or exceeds Skoda 504 00 or 507 00 spec that is within the range of the quoted viscosity p

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No, you need to specify what you want because it varies depending on mileage.

Don’t forget the pollen filter

  • Author

Many thanks for the replies. So I need: Pollen Filter, Air Filter, Oil Filter, Plugs, Oil [I see the capacity is 3.2 liters (1.4 16v 74 KW)}, sump plug and washer... anything else?

 

I see elsewhere on here I should use 10w40 for a 1.4 16v and that I should clean the "breather system" ... not heard that before

 

 

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Who's suggesting 10W40 and why?

Breather box is on the back of the engine block; if clogged up it does the engine no good at all. Access a bit awkward even from beneath.

Not really cleanable, but if blocked up not very expensive to replace.

  • Author

Thanks for the response. I saw 10w40 on here ... not correct?

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Where exactly?

I would expect the correct oil to be one conforming to VW group standard 502 00; which tend to be 5w40.

If you are lucky enough like me to have TPS deal with you as a non trader then that will soon change if you ask Mr Ploppy questions like I want a service kit.

  • Author

That was the thread I was looking at... but this is what is so brilliant about this forum... having people to check with. 5W40 it is.

 

TPS do deal with me, so I will ask them later for all the bits  

6 hours ago, Wino said:

Who's suggesting 10W40 and why?

 

 

The 1.4 mpi 8 valve takes 10w40, so maybe they confused it with that.

Edited by TMB

Don't shoot me but it really isn't that important on a NA petrol engine, far better to change it regularly, semi-syn is 10W40, when these cars were made that was totally acceptable, normal even.

I have the fabia owners workshop manual and I will show you 

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No pressure

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Edited by Skrrrda
Forgot pic

There are a lot of 'oil fairies' on these fora, there are even 'brand fairies' who swear by one companies advertising over all others.

 

As Skrrrda has shown you, it really doesn't matter. Just change it according to schedule and you can't go wrong.

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7 hours ago, Skrrrda said:

No pressure

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Gosh, contradictory/inconsistent information in a Haynes manual, whatever next?

Show me an oil that meets or exceeds Skoda 504 00 or 507 00 spec that is within the range of the quoted viscosity pairings...

Not that either of those are the correct specs for these cars on fixed service schedule, but never mind.

Edited by Wino

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Finally did the service! Parts from TPS was £60 (including the VAT) - 5 liters of 5w40 quantum; oil filter; air filter; nkg spark-plugs and sump plug and all with the VW logo printed. I didn't do the cabin filter as I had replaced it recently. Service was easier than I expected. Also I didn't put high temperature anti seize lubricant on the plugs as I saw the recommendation from NKG was against it.

 

Thanks for all the comments

On 22/08/2020 at 19:09, Wino said:

Gosh, contradictory/inconsistent information in a Haynes manual, whatever next?

 

http://www.mez.co.uk/haynes.html

 

A NUMBER OF DIFFERENT APPROACHES ARE BEING TRIED
We are still ****ing in the wind.

10w40 is what is recommended by Haynes and by the manufacturer. However that was a long time ago. Now days 5w30 is recommended. However i've tried 5w30, 10w30, 5w40 10w40. It runs overall better with a 5w than a 10w. 30 or 40 is up to you. Some people say it idles better with a 40 than a 30. But honestly there is no cure for the lumpy idle of a Fabia. What we can agree upon is the fact that regardless if you put in a 5w30, 10w30, 5w40 or 10w40. None of these wear your engine out any faster than NOT changing your oil and oil filter at least once a year.

36 minutes ago, Xsr said:

10w40 is what is recommended by Haynes and by the manufacturer. However that was a long time ago. Now days 5w30 is recommended. However i've tried 5w30, 10w30, 5w40 10w40. It runs overall better with a 5w than a 10w. 30 or 40 is up to you. Some people say it idles better with a 40 than a 30. But honestly there is no cure for the lumpy idle of a Fabia. What we can agree upon is the fact that regardless if you put in a 5w30, 10w30, 5w40 or 10w40. None of these wear your engine out any faster than NOT changing your oil and oil filter at least once a year.

 

That is the 1.4 mpi, 8 valve engine only. You make it sound like it applies to all Fabias.

1 hour ago, TMB said:

 

That is the 1.4 mpi, 8 valve engine only. You make it sound like it applies to all Fabias.

 

I was under the assumption that it included all mpi's between 1999 and 2007.

3 hours ago, Xsr said:

 

I was under the assumption that it included all mpi's between 1999 and 2007.

 

It's only the 8 valve 1.4 mpi engine that has a slightly lumpy idle as a result of tuning the prehistoric lump to meet emission standards,  and they only used that engine until 2003. None of the other MK1 Fabia engines have a lumpy idle by default.

Edited by TMB

Lumpy idle- one good reason for converting to derv. Be it 1.4 tdi/1.9sdi or bigger brother. Although I've had a compliment from my neighbour who's a truck recovery manager. He reckons my 1.4 sounds more like a petrol than a lot of high class petrol cars.

As for service kit . A bit of light reading of the service manual might prove worth while. Modern petrol blokes have it easy these days. Forget points. ( us older blokes  remember that the outer lining of a fag packet was circa the right gap if you got points gap problems on the road. ) Plugs- I found that with (at least my home brew electronic ignition system points wear was negligible and plug wear was also less of a problem.Unless you had the dreaded smaller plugs. Vauxhall fitted these to early engines and Opel carried on this practice, where any small bit of muck in the engine caused a misfire, which registered on the management system. With the older Vauxhall cars, I always carried an old spare plug from last service. Swap the plug and carry on.

That leaves the main important items ,such as oil and filter changes as needed ( and possibly before time). I always get car up on ramps( gets sump plug nearest the lowest point) and sacrifice about 0.5 litre of oil down the filter to flush out gunge. Possibly not needed, but I feel happier that way, especially as I reckon that car needs oil change at 10k/annually or when it needs a top up, which ever comes sooner. That leaves air filter and in the case of a derv, fuel filter.

Edited by VWD

Hey lads quick question was just changing my oil filter and noticed that the tightening bit on the ends of the filters were different should I be concerned? 
the one I took off was a Mann w712/52 one I bought with a service kit 5k ago but the new one is a Mahle OC 295 sounds okay

14 minutes ago, Skrrrda said:

Hey lads quick question was just changing my oil filter and noticed that the tightening bit on the ends of the filters were different should I be concerned? 
the one I took off was a Mann w712/52 one I bought with a service kit 5k ago but the new one is a Mahle OC 295 sounds okay

 

Just checked the cross-referencing for you and the Mahle one is a direct match. Both identical thread size ( 3/4-16 UNF) :)

Edited by TMB

3 hours ago, TMB said:

 

Just checked the cross-referencing for you and the Mahle one is a direct match. Both identical thread size ( 3/4-16 UNF) :)

Any idea why the oil filter tightening size was different? Just different manufacturers specifications ?

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