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Rear shock change.

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Quick question I'm going to change my rear shocks and springs and wondered if gas or oil filled are the better option to go with, thanks in advance as always 👌

All dampers are oil filled. However some also use high pressure gas as well, and these are the best ones to go for. If you have standard ones at the front I would go for anything special (sporty) ones for the rear, only gas (and oil) filled ones.

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Tbh bud I was contemplating changing fronts as well as I swopped out all the springs 2 months ago as I wanted to stiffen ride as I've started butting roof bars to but my mountain bike on so felt a stiffer spring would help me out.

  • 5 weeks later...
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Hi again so im about to do the rear shocks and springs as have them now can anyone tell me the correct torque settings for the top and bottom bolt fixings for the shocks please thankyou :)

7 hours ago, Stewartasb said:

Hi again so im about to do the rear shocks and springs as have them now can anyone tell me the correct torque settings for the top and bottom bolt fixings for the shocks please thankyou :)

 

Damper rod nut to top mount - 25Nm.

 

Top mount to body - Stage 1: 30Nm. Stage 2: Angle tighten to 90 degrees.

 

Lower mounting - Stage 1: 40Nm. Stage 2: Angle tighten to 90 degrees.

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Technically, the top bolts, and the bottom bolt and nut are all single use; as far as I recall.  I'd use a modicum of 'condition based' judgement on all.

I'd want to have at least one replacement bottom nut and bolt in hand. They spend their lives covered in crap so expect to have bother getting at least one of them out. 

 

Wirebrush them up well and give them a spray of release oil at least the night before you want to take them off. 

Info on bolts etc in a post I placed in a thread in the Fabia guides section:-

 

  

On 11/03/2011 at 16:00, fabdavrav said:

FRONT SUSPENSION:

ARB saddle clamp over bush = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. The lower bolt on the drivers side cannot be reached with the wheels in the air as the angle of the drive-shaft covers the bolt, so do this bolt first when undoing, and last when tightening, and jack the wishbone up on this side under the ball-joint to raise the drive-shaft out of the way!!

ARB drop link both ends = 40Nm (30lbf ft) Do not fully tighten top (strut) end until car is fully supported (evenly) on wheels! Always renew the nuts.

Balljoint to lower arm = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn These are the three small bolts, only resuse the captive tri-nut plate twice, and reuse the bolts no more than three times!

Balljoint to hub carrier nut = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn, Always renew nut.

****************************************************************************

Front pivot bolt for lower wishbone = 70Nm (52lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Lower arm rear mounting bracket plate (console) has 1 large bolt and 2 small ones.

Large = 70Nm (52lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Small = 20Nm (15lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew these bolts.

Front (console) subframe to underbody bolt (the one that you get to through hole on wishbone) = 50Nm (37lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn (Yes I know that this is a lower torque than rear bolt, but logically the rear one takes more force as the suspension tries to go up and back into bodywork, which is why it also has a reinforcing place and a further 2 bolts!!

Steering rack to subframe/console/underbody (four bolts) = 50Nm (37lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

Gearbox link to subframe bolt = 40Nm (30lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn.

***If you have had to move/replace console, ARB, etc. I have found this to help setting it up even!! Slacken all the above bolts up to line ******(especially front pivot). Then push the aluminium consoles (you might also have to push the subframe) to rear of car and outwards max diff is about 5mm. Then fully tighten the rear console bracket bolts (6 total) and front console bolts (2). Then tighten (evenly) the front pivot bolts to 1/2 torque (this positions the sub frame), then fully tighten the four steering rack bolts. Now you can go back and fully tighten the front pivot bolts, and the gearbox link to subframe bolt!!!

Suspension strut bottom clamp bolt & nut = 60Nm (44lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew nut.

Piston rod nut to top mounting = 60Nm (44lbf ft) Always renew nut.

Top mounting bolts to bodywork (three of) = 15Nm (11lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew.

Main 12 point hub nut (all older types should be replaced with this type) = 50Nm (37lbf ft)+ 1/8 turn (45 deg. Use once only design!!) Tighten the nut up just enough to fully draw the driveshaft into the bearing unit, refit the wheel (do not fully tighten the five wheel bolts, wheel should not move, and no gap between wheel and hub), then put car on ground, then fully tighten the main hub nut, then fully tighten the wheel bolts in diagonal cross pattern!!

Road wheel bolts = 120Nm (89lbf ft). Tighten up in diagonal cross pattern.

REAR SUSPENSION:

Main pivot bush through bolt & nut = 45Nm (33lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew nut. These should be done up so that they just touch the mounting bracket, then refit wheels etc. and lower car to ground. Open hatch and bounce car up and down from centre of hatch lower lip (this settles the bushes). Now you can fully tighten the bolts up (leave the car on ground!!)

Piston strut to beam bottom mounting bolt & nut = 40Nm (30lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew nut. These should be done up so that they just touch the mounting bracket, then refit wheels etc. and lower car to ground. Open hatch and bounce car up and down from centre of hatch lower lip (this settles the bushes in piston mounting). Now you can fully tighten the bolts up (leave the car on ground!!)

Piston rod nut to top mounting = 25Nm (18lbf ft)

Top mounting bracket to bodywork bolts(two of) = 30Nm (22lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew.

Stub axle bolts (four off) = 30Nm (22lbf ft)+ 1/4 turn. Always renew.

Main 12 point hub nut = 70Nm (52lbf ft)+ 1/12 turn (30 deg). Always renew. This one doesn't need car to be on ground etc. like front one!!

Road wheel bolts = 120Nm (89lbf ft). Tighten up in diagonal cross pattern.

 

  • Author

Thanks guys one last question that you brought up do you know the correct size of the bottom nut and bolt as I would like to replace these a you say they have spent their life out in all conditions and thanks again 👍

Edited by Stewartasb
Incorrect spelling

  • Author

Found the bolt kits now thanks guys.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Hi all so rear change went great thanks for the advice now on the back of that I've decided to swop out the front springs and shocks any advice on this and does anyone know the correct size of the bottom mounting bolt and not as cant seem to find these online thanks again 👍

  • Author

thats the one cheers mate :)

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