Hi guys, I have my 1.2 Skoda Fabia 6Y2 for two weeks now and I took a deep dive inside the engine bay and noticed quite a few things wrong but since my knowledge about cars is limited to almost nonexistent I need your support.

Is the air filter box look like this? Shouldn't there be some connections to the box (see picture 1)?

 

Also, I noticed that there is a rusted part which goes in between the engine and the radiator which falls apart of how rusty it is, what's that called (picture 2)?

 

In picture 3 there is a sensor which holds together with zip ties but from what I can see it trows out oil, what's that called?

 

Thank you in advance for your support and suggestions!

Pic 1  - There is a connector plug missing off the sensor on the air box, or the top of the air box is from a different model.

 

Pic 2 - Looks like a corroded exhaust manifold shield/cowling? Part number 03D 253 041 H (BMD engine code).

 

Pic 3 - Cam position sensor. It is sealed by an O-ring which might be leaking. Sensor is part number 03D 907 601 A (BMD engine code). The O-ring doesn't seem to be listed as a separate item but comes with a new sensor.

 

Video for changing the cam position sensor....

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QV4BJImnrPA

 

Edited 5 September, 20205 yr by TMB

Thank you taking the time to answer my questions. That's why I asked about the sensor, I'm not really sure if it's should be plugged in or not. The box looks like it's not being hold up in place by bolts, it's just sitting there, maybe indeed the hole box is from a different model?

 

Changing that cover involves skills or any special tools? Could I do it at home?

 

Is there any document or maybe a website where I can find all these parts details so I don't bother people with all my questions?

 

Thank you!

I wouldn't touch anything in there until that engine bay is cleaned up with soap and water.

Believe me, I'm getting crazy just by looking at the pictures but I have to take them one by one, I'm now focusing on getting it all together. Also, I cannot use any liquid in the engine bay as I noticed quite a few exposed connections, wires and so on.

15 minutes ago, Rotarski said:

Believe me, I'm getting crazy just by looking at the pictures but I have to take them one by one, I'm now focusing on getting it all together. Also, I cannot use any liquid in the engine bay as I noticed quite a few exposed connections, wires and so on.

 

I wouldn't worry about that, every time the car is driven on wet roads loads of water gets sprayed all over the engine, you just don't see it happen and the heat inside the engine bay dries it out in minutes.

Good point! I will try and tidy up the engine bay as much as possible but after I manage to make all the adjustment needed to the parts.

It's already in my plans to get it fully detailed soon.

13 hours ago, Rotarski said:

Changing that cover involves skills or any special tools? Could I do it at home?

 

They are just bolted down and sometimes they have rubber bushes that they are pushed into.

 

13 hours ago, Rotarski said:

Is there any document or maybe a website where I can find all these parts details so I don't bother people with all my questions?

 

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2007-453/

Found a part number match for your airbox, it's from a diesel SDI engined Fabia: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2006-453/1/129-129040/  (item 7)

Yours doesn't need any sensor in there, this is the correct page for BMD showing no such sensor https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2007-453/1/129-129015/

No need to change anything though, I don't think. 

 

5 hours ago, Wino said:

Found a part number match for your airbox, it's from a diesel SDI engined Fabia: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2006-453/1/129-129040/  (item 7)

Yours doesn't need any sensor in there, this is the correct page for BMD showing no such sensor https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2007-453/1/129-129015/

No need to change anything though, I don't think. 

 

 

Nice one Had a feeling it was from a different car.

Yes, me too,it was impossible for the previous owner to run it like that for 2 years with no issues. I will try to get one that fits just to have it bolt on since it's now just hanging in there. Thank you guys, it was really helpful!

Another thing that looks non-factory is the main battery negative cable.  Can you post a better photo of the end that connects to the car body? The battery post end doesn't look 'normal' either.

 

It may be perfectly OK as it is, but worth checking I think.

 

Oh, and the cam sensor oil leak might be a clue that the crankcase ventilation isn't working correctly.

Try removing the oil filler cap while the engine is running. Note whether it feels like it is being pulled back down as you release the bayonet fitting, or being pushed away upwards. This may well affect how the engine runs at idle, so don't be surprised if you hear a change as you open it.

Hi guys and thank you for all your answers, it really helps me to put this together nicely.

Soooo, the battery is dead, I think...if I turn the key to the first position everything lights up fine but when I try to crank up the engine, you can hear the starter but everything shuts down. If I turn the key back to the first position everything lights back up.

 

@Wino You might be right about the battery setup, the entire assemble of the battery is not bolted down anywhere, it's heavy but I can slightly move it around if I want, just like the air filter box. I'll post a close up picture later today.

As for the cam sensor leak, when you say bayonet are you referring to the dip stick?  There is a chance this gets messy am I right? 

1 hour ago, Rotarski said:

As for the cam sensor leak, when you say bayonet are you referring to the dip stick?  There is a chance this gets messy am I right? 

No, the oil filler cap, where you pour in oil to top-up, or refill oil after draining it.  The 'bayonet fitting' refers to the 90-degree turn-to-lock type mechanism. Shouldn't get messy, as it should only take a few seconds to do the check.

Check to see if the red battery symbol comes on when you turn the key to the position where other lights come on in the instrument display.

Yep, the red battery symbol comes up when the key is in the first position.

Hi guys, anyone knows what battery should I pick for the MK1? The current one is a Bosch 60Ah 540A 12V but it's dead

You should buy one the same size so that it fits in the battery box.

A three year guarantee will last three years and one day.

A four year guarantee will last four years and one week.

A five year guarantee will last well over five years.

You get what you pay for.

So it's solely based on the size of the batter and not the specs?

The reason I'm asking for specific details is because I'm not 100% sure the battery box is from my car. As I mentioned on this thread both the air filter box and the battery box seem off. They are hold together by zip ties and I can move them around if I try hard enough.

5 minutes ago, Rotarski said:

So it's solely based on the size of the batter and not the specs?

 

 

The higher CCA (cold cranking amps) you can get the better. As long as the battery will fit the box.

The 1.2 engines really don't take much starting (or shouldn't when healthy), so more or less any battery you can buy will probably be OK for the remaining life of the car.  

Are you sure it's not just a loose connection at/near the battery? 

1 hour ago, Wino said:

The 1.2 engines really don't take much starting (or shouldn't when healthy), so more or less any battery you can buy will probably be OK for the remaining life of the car.  

Are you sure it's not just a loose connection at/near the battery? 

 

Was just thinking that it gets pretty cold In Romania in the winter. It all helps.

Good point.

In the past years we had -10 -15 degrees so yeah, it gets pretty cold.

I'll try and tighten all the connections but I doubt it that's the issue. A couple of months ago the previous owner left for a one week holiday and forgot the car with the key in the ignition, in first position and the battery fully drained so I'm guessing that's the reason it's no longer holding it's power. It's also almost 3 years old.