Hi 

Yesterday morning the ESP light came on and at appx 3000 rpm the engine appeared to be struggling. Completed the 15 mile drive though. Had two smaller trips later that day, and after the second, the car wouldn't start anymore.

An OBD check shows the following codes P2096, P0341 and P0106. Plugs and coils are new, checked fuses and battery. Appears to be okay.

Any suggestions what I should check next? (if theres any problem that would cause all of the above errors)

It's a Fabia MK1 2006 petrol.  

Hi Samsing, 

 

According to the codes P2096 is the the spark that is not working properly. Check if each plug is given the correct spark. May also be the wiring is defective.

P0341 is related to the camshaft position sensor. Check the proper voltage or short. You may need to get a new sensor.

P0106 is related to the MAP sensor, also check for proper voltage. May need replacement as well.

 

Hope this helps you. Let us know if you fixed it.

ESP or EPC warning light?

Check your brake servo vacuum hose for splits where the hard plastic sections join the non-return valve.

Also, which petrol engine? 1.2 40kW, 1.2 47kW, 1.4, 2.0?

 

Edited 7 November, 20205 yr by Wino

Sounds like a 1.2 which has lost its cam timing from the faults and symptoms.

Hmm, sounds like a good call.

Thanks a lot for the input. I'll check those out. 

 

It's the Electronic Stability Programme light that was on. 

(1.2 47 kW). 

All plugs are sparking, checked voltage to both MAP and camshaft sensors which was fine and I even replaced both sensors.

No damages on the vacuum hose. 

 

sepulchrave, loss of cam timing, does that mean I have to replace (or adjust) the chain? 

2 hours ago, Samsing said:

All plugs are sparking, checked voltage to both MAP and camshaft sensors which was fine and I even replaced both sensors.

No damages on the vacuum hose. 

 

sepulchrave, loss of cam timing, does that mean I have to replace (or adjust) the chain? 

 

Yes.

On 07/11/2020 at 08:59, Samsing said:

Thanks a lot for the input. I'll check those out. 

 

It's the Electronic Stability Programme light that was on. 

(1.2 47 kW). 

 

Surprising a 1.2 has ESP, guess that might be a Danish thing.

I'm having a hard time inserting the crankshaft locking tool. Anyone has a hint on doing this? 

 

Plus, cylinder 1 isn't at TDC when the camshafts are locked. Is that going to be a problem? 

There is probably a build-up of oxide on the inside of the hole it goes into. Small wire brush, remove as much stuff  (knock sensor wiring?) that's in the way as possible and then patiently clean it up.

 

How far from horizontal are the cam slots when cyl 1 is at TDC?

Possible valve damage, so may be worth trying to get an endoscope in the plug holes for a look.

Thanks Wino. I'm guessing they are appx 10 degrees from horisontal. 

 

I'll try cleaning the hole with a small brush and check the valves with an endoscope. 

So i have replaced the chain. Still not started the engine though, as the serpentine belt seems to be coming of. So I am not comfortable with continuing to attempt to start. It looks as if the tentioner is the culprit. Can anyone confirm from the picture, that the tensioner needs replacing or is it positioned normally like that? 

 

I had trouble getting the tensioner back on correctly after doing this job in the summer.  I bought a second-hand replacement and after swapping that in, found that part of the original had cracked, leading to the misalignment. I may have cracked it when removing it, or when refitting, I'm not sure. It's awkward to refit, I remember that, 

Replaced the tensioner, so the belt runs fine now. But still no start... Anyone have an idea? I've attached the sound when attempting to start. 

motor

Not much compression left in that engine, spins too fast and doesn't kick back as it stops. I think the valves are damaged.

I can't get that file to do anything on desktop or phone?

motor

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BdQSsAtPLSDmusjAM-85vVpkPMcaZwSp/view?usp=drivesdk

OK, as sep says, not encouraging. Do a compression test.

Thanks for the replies. Bought a compression tester and there was no compression at all on any of the cylinders. (fuse to fuel pump out, all coils and plugs out and turn the key a couple of times, is the way to do it, right?). It is very moist down the cylinders now btw. 

 

So what am I looking at here. New valves? And is it a job that can be done by layman? 

The head needs to go to the machine shop anyway to be skimmed and for the valves and seats to be recut.