TDI 190 DSG temperature spike

[TheGingerOne]

Good evening all, 

just been sat in the roadworks on the M4 with the cruise on at 60 and the outside temperature showing 2 degrees. The car started beeping and said it was over heating. Water temp was at 125 and oil 111. Slotted it into neutral, put the heating up to hi and the blowers on full and the temps went back to normal within seconds, it then did it 2 further times, the last when rising up a hill. The coolant reservoir wasn’t hot to touch, neither were any of the pipes going to or from the radiator.

 

It’s like a sensor issue but i can’t get why both the oil and water are showing as running hot. Equally, if it was running hot both temps dropped quicker than I have ever seen. 
 

 

Any ideas??? 
 

 

Merry Christmas one and all. 

[James@RRG_Skoda_Rochdale]

Coolant pump failure. 

 

Have a google of "VWG EA288 coolant pump failure" 

[Gabrielem]

How much is it worth to repair that fault?

[Sheriff]

14 hours ago, Gabrielem said:

How much is it worth to repair that fault?

Needs to be done with the cam belt so around £500 mark in the U.K.

[jockieboy]

I've had to visit the dealer for this issue today, pump and cam belt being replaced. 

I think the standard price is £549.

[TheGingerOne]

Dropped mine off today. Called this morning, booked with a loaner and dropped off the same day. £130 for diagnostics, we will see what the final bill is. Depending on the outcome they will speak with the warranty department as it’s only done 37k and the warranty ran out 3 months ago. 

[PipH]

The pump has an electrically operated sleeve that STOPS the pump from pumping coolant for a quick engine warm-up.

This sleeve sticks & causes the engine to overheat, it usually un-sticks itself after a while & engine temperature returns to normal.

 

If you disconnect the electrical connector behind the pump it just reverts to a normal pump & won't stick again.

A cheaper option than new belt, pump & labour.

[jumper_na]

3 hours ago, PipH said:

The pump has an electrically operated sleeve that STOPS the pump from pumping coolant for a quick engine warm-up.

This sleeve sticks & causes the engine to overheat, it usually un-sticks itself after a while & engine temperature returns to normal.

 

If you disconnect the electrical connector behind the pump it just reverts to a normal pump & won't stick again.

A cheaper option than new belt, pump & labour.

Yeah. Won’t the car then heat up more slowly in the winter because the water pump will be constantly circulating water? or am I wrong?

[jumper_na]

HI have superb 3 2.0 tdi 150ps DSG 6 105000km. Car is now 4 year old. And problems with the water pump began. Sometimes it raises the temperature and returns it at normally.

Now should i change water pump only or. Change Toothed Belt, with roller's and tensioner. And V belt with tensioner and roller's. Is there any more things and belt that i should change now when i'm changing water pump. Should i change coolant. Since car is 4 year old and that is first belt. And coolant to or?!

Thanks

[Jase_31]

On 24/12/2020 at 21:37, James@RRG_Skoda_Rochdale said:

Coolant pump failure. 

 

Have a google of "VWG EA288 coolant pump failure" 

 

Does this affect all model years? Is there any change to newer pumps?

[PipH]

18 hours ago, jumper_na said:

Yeah. Won’t the car then heat up more slowly in the winter because the water pump will be constantly circulating water? or am I wrong?

It wastes a tiny bit of engine power trying to circulate coolant to a closed thermostat. ( Just the same as any previous engine )

Once the thermostat opens the pump sleeve should have operated anyway & the pump circulates as normal.

A domestic circulator for your central heating uses about 50w of power, that's less than 1/10 of a HP.

 

It's a bit like Stop/ Start ( unless your in a lot of stop/ start traffic ), the energy saving is miniscule.

Edited 5 January, 2021 by PipH

[James@RRG_Skoda_Rochdale]

I had a customer with a sleeveless coolant pump fitted by an independent garage. We replaced it with a genuine pump a month later. He wasn't happy with it at all. As a regular user of his vehicle up to 80k miles he noticed temperature related issues that didn't occur prior to fitting the pump. 

 

I fitted a genuine pump to my own vehicle, 2 years warranty and less than £200 for the entire timing belt/water pump kit. 

 

I'm not saying it's absolutely critical to fit a genuine pump, you fit whatever you like but I've never seen a repeat failure. 

[J.R.]

I presume on my engine I have the sleeved water pump, what I have noticed is that the engine warms up much quicker than the preceeding MK2 & MK1 1.9tdi Octavias with standard water pumps, the difference is very noticeable and its as good if not better than any petrol vehicle I have had in the past.

 

I think with a standard set up the water circulates through the heater matrix as soon as the engine is running which slows down the rate of the water jacket heating, yet I still get warm air from the heater after 2 miles maximum even in the current 2° temperatures and the guage up to 90°c within 5 miles, before it was 8 miles and only if there was a fast section of road or a hill.

 

So I think while it is working its a very good feature, if it becomes an achilles heel then thats not so good.

 

Can anyone tell me if my vehicle is of an age to have been fitted with one of the problem waterpumps please?

 

I seem to have dodged most of the bullets with this vehicle like self destruct clutches etc.

Edited 5 January, 2021 by J.R.

[James@RRG_Skoda_Rochdale]

33 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I presume on my engine I have the sleeved water pump, what I have noticed is that the engine warms up much quicker than the preceeding MK2 & MK1 1.9tdi Octavias with standard water pumps, the difference is very noticeable and its as good if not better than any petrol vehicle I have had in the past.

 

I think with a standard set up the water circulates through the heater matrix as soon as the engine is running which slows down the rate of the water jacket heating, yet I still get warm air from the heater after 2 miles maximum even in the current 2° temperatures and the guage up to 90°c within 5 miles, before it was 8 miles and only if there was a fast section of road or a hill.

 

So I think while it is working its a very good feature, if it becomes an achilles heel then thats not so good.

 

Can anyone tell me if my vehicle is of an age to have been fitted with one of the problem waterpumps please?

 

I seem to have dodged most of the bullets with this vehicle like self destruct clutches etc.

What year and engine?

[J.R.]

Its contained in my profile description to the left of my postings.

 

2015, CFHF engine, 110hp.

[James@RRG_Skoda_Rochdale]

33 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Its contained in my profile description to the left of my postings.

 

2015, CFHF engine, 110hp.

It doesn't show any info on my browser?

 

The CFHF engine looks to be the previous generation of CR TDI. If that's the case then it doesn't have the sleeved pump.

[J.R.]

Thankyou, that is reassuring.

 

I wonder why it warms up so quickly or why the others were so bad even after replacing the thermostats?

 

I had forgotten that the profile details cant be seen on a smartphone & perhaps some browsers also.

[TheGingerOne]

So the word from Marshall Skoda is, new pump and cam belt fitted. No coat for diagnostics and with a bit of good will from VAG the total cost is £360. All in all, I’m happy (I’d be more happy if it hadn’t failed in the first place). 

Edited 8 January, 2021 by TheGingerOne