After a year of trying to get the stars to align which Covid has prevented the Yeti will finally be getting a Celtic Tuning remap on Thursday, stage 2 to allegedly 190hp from 108hp but I reckon (indeed hope) that its the standard 170hp VAG map.

 

Their mobile service could not get to me for 6 weeks which is far longer than any of my UK visits but they have a dealer not far from me, CT cars at West Horsley a VAG independant garage that seem to have a good reputation for normal service & repair work.

 

I finish my 10 days quarantine tomorrow and it will have been worthwhile if the results are what I am hoping for, I will be towing some very heavy laden trailers moving all my garage equipment to France soon I hope and with 108hp any flics sat beside an autoroute incline would believe from my speed that the vehicle is overloaded, just towing the roulottes (a mobile site hut like a van trailer) empty at any speed was too much for the current engine power.

 

I will let you know how it goes, I will be disconnecting the EGR emulator/simulator to avoid any hiccups and will do a lot of miles before reconnecting it to see what difference it makes with the new mapping.

 

Forgot to say they even gave me a £50 discount for some promo that they are running at present, they did not need to I would have been happy for them to have matched the £295 that Celtic tuning charge so £250ish I am very happy about.

Edited 3 February, 20215 yr by J.R.

SKODA YETI 2009 -

2.0 TDI CR

81 kW / 110 PS, 250 Nm (standard)

performance increase

Displacement	1968 cc
Torque	330 Nm at 1600 rpm
More efficient	30 PS / 22 kW, 80 Nm

https://www.dtintecno.de/cars/2-0-tdi-cr-81-kw-110-ps:6119

 

SKODA YETI 2009 -

2.0 TDI CR

103 kW / 140 PS, 320 Nm (Serie)

Leistungssteigerung

Hubraum	1968 ccm
Drehmoment	400 Nm bei 1600 U/min
Mehrleistung	30 PS / 22 kW, 80 Nm

 

https://www.dtintecno.de/cars/2-0-tdi-cr-103-kw-140-ps:6117

 

SKODA YETI 2009 -

2.0 TDI CR

125 kW / 170 PS, 350 Nm (Serie)

Leistungssteigerung

Hubraum	1968 ccm
Drehmoment	430 Nm bei 1700 U/min
Mehrleistung	27 PS / 20 kW, 80 Nm

 

https://www.dtintecno.de/cars/2-0-tdi-cr-125-kw-170-ps:6118

 

DigiTec remaps only manage the following increases:

 

110PS/250Nm engine to 140PS/330Nm@1600rpm.

 

140PS/320Nm engine goes to 170PS/400Nm@1600rpm.

 

170PS/350Nm engine 197PS/430Nm@a1700rpm.

 

I would be sceptical about much bigger increases being possible, or DigiTec would have done it themselves.

 

20 hours ago, J.R. said:

After a year of trying to get the stars to align which Covid has prevented the Yeti will finally be getting a Celtic Tuning remap on Thursday, stage 2 to allegedly 190hp from 108hp but I reckon (indeed hope) that its the standard 170hp VAG map.

 

 

I think you're correct to be sceptical about the figures quoted by Celtic Tuning.  However, I also think it's unlikely that they'll be installing the VAG 170 PS map, given the mechanical differences between the engines.  I believe that the 110 and 140 PS engines are largely similar with the outputs being determined by the software in the ECU.  The 170 PS engine has a larger turbo and possibly some other differences.   The other consideration would be to ensure that the clutch and gearbox (5 speed?) are up to handling the remapped output.  I'd expect a reputable tuning company to be aware of this. 

Edited 3 February, 20215 yr by Schtum

Thanks for your response, yes its also my understanding that the 110 & 140hp engines are identical aside from the mapping, also that I have a smaller turbo than the 170hp variant.

 

I do however have the 6 speed gearbox which I believe is a stronger version, this garage (the Celtic agent) seem quite reputable, they have excellent reviews, the guy on the phone knew his stuff & was not the typical service receptionist, they sounded quite conservative & were proposing the stage 1 mapping but when he researched my vehicle spec he said it was OK & "within parameters" to use his words, we will see.

 

98% of the time I wont be using the extra power, just for the occasional overtake & when towing a heavy load uphill.

 

I am hoping that whatever the actual power output having a smaller turbo will be an advantage as I am not looking for a performance vehicle.

Edited 3 February, 20215 yr by J.R.

what other changes have you made to support stage 2 ?

I wore clean underwear.

 

What changes had you in mind?

Remap done but had some clutch hydraulic problems on return journey, it rips through the gears so quick that you naturally shift quicker and the faster clutch action was not appreciated by the master cylinder whose piston (I believe) refused to return fully resulting in half pedal travel with no resistance & the clutch releasing on the floor.

 

The stupid restrictor shuttle valve in the bleed block I reckon was to blame, I did not know of its existence but sometimes when doing a fast start to get across a junction in traffic the clutch would slip and I had the impression that it was not engaging as quick as I released the pedal, I now know that I was correct.

 

Drilled the stupid thing out and pressure bled the clutch, it all feels fine now but I will keep a close eye on things and replace the master cylinder if need be, funnily enough this week I had exactly the same problem when recommissioning my bike engined Caterham road/race car after being laid up for 17 years, with that it was both master & slave pistons that were sticking.

 

Off for a road test now and will probably find that I cant drive it now without stalling, kangarooing or clutch judder, the optimist in me says that it will be a big improvement, I dont like lag, inertia or damping in any human operated control system.

Clutch pedal drops after max acceleration runs in 3rd then 4th, 1/4 of its travel each time. Whatever it is was always there but before the engine always ran out of revs much earlier so was never subjected to this.

 

Will start a new thread.

17 hours ago, J.R. said:

I wore clean underwear.

 

What changes had you in mind?

Well typically stage 2 has changes to support the additional load - I certainly wouldn't stick a S2 map on a Stock car 

i'd be looking at

DPF removal,

turbo back exhaust 

the 110 has a smaller turbo than the 170 so that's now going to be working harder and therefore getting hotter,  watch out for oil starvation or overboost issues 

uprated brakes - to upgrade you need to replace the hub carrier.

not sure about the size of the Clutch and ancillaries on this engine but I would expect +80bhp you might well run into issues 

 

Edited 5 February, 20215 yr by Gissin

No way will I be removing the DPF, maybe in a previous life but this remap was simply to give me the mid range torque that this vehicle is lacking, most of the time that will never be used but its good to have on tap for the very rare instances I need to overtake someone driving slower than I want to, also I have some heavy towing jobs in the future.

 

Brakes, I already bought all the parts but they were in much worse condition than the listing suggested, the discs are not even the grooved ones shown on the photos, I do indeed need new hub carriers to fit them but also will need larger diameter struts or to faff around with shim collars, I will make a start by reconditioning the calipers this week.

 

Whilst I have the problem of the clutch getting air in the system after full throttle max rev runs in 3rd & 4th or 4th & 5th gears there is a very simple solution, I never ever need to do them! There seems to be no leak but simply air entering the system or possibly aération, it will self bleed out overnight, that is a work in progress, I have however dodged a bullet by discovering and disabling the restrictor valve that slows the clutch from disengaging, it meant I was getting slip on the rare fast pull aways in 1st gear, a gear in which the clutch should never slip, it would also have happened when full throttle upchanging to 5th or 6th where it really would have caused damage, I will never be putting the new torque through a slipping clutch and it has no problem driving it when disengaged.

 

A bonus of removing the restrictor valve is that the pedal comes up quicker if I step off it quicker (which was the intention) the clutch switch contacts close quicker so the turbo spools up quicker after a gearchange, that really is noticeable but again its only going to be once in a blue moon it gets used.

 

All your comments would have been relevant if I were a 25 year younger version of my current sad old self!!!!

The changes that you mention initially are not to support the additional load but to get the maximum out of the remapping which in itself will create more load on the drivetrain, brakes, oil & cooling systems, what I have is more than adequate for me.

 

What I really like is that if I drive it like I usually do there is absolutely no difference, perhaps I am able to remain in a higher gear at lower speeds like with the previous remap, I need to get back to familiar roads and the routine journeys to know.

yes and no, 

 

supporting mods like large bore  down pipe and larger exhaust system yes help to get more power from a remap but they also support in removing waste gasses from the system quicker thus keeping the engine and  surrounding components slightly cooler. 

 

but as you say you're not using the additional power so possibly not needed.

 

good luck with your fix 

The extra heat was what finally killed off the clutch master cylinder but having dismantled the old one the  piston seal (male) had long since degraded & broken up due to its proximity to the DPF, it was still functioning because the piston is a very close fit in the bore & will bleed & operate the clutch even without the seal at normal temperature because there is a second female seal that ensure any fluid passing the piston seal will not leak out but instead pass back up to the reservoir, when the cylinder expanded the fluid took the path of least resistance.

 

If the higher powered versions of my engine have a larger DPF and freer flowing exhaust then it would have indeed reduced the temperature but the damage had already been done by 80k miles of active and passive regens.

 

When I have googled and found other examples of premature failure they have all been the 170hp engines and many were failing at 30 miles.

 

If anyone has any doubts they should bleed the clutch system, its very easy once the air filter housing is removed, if there are any black particles then your master cylinder seal has broken up and sooner or later your pedal will go to the floor and not return.