my ABS and traction control light are both on and when scanned it shows the abs control module communication problem, I wanted to know if anyone knows why the abs control modules go bad and what causes the problem?

Given the age of the vehicle it may just be a wiring/connector issue and not the module.

 

* I just watched a vid on the tube after searching "VW ABS module" and the first fix on a Polo was replacing a blown 40A fuse under the bonnet so it may not be all doom and gloom.

Edited 29 March, 20215 yr by MicMac

I have already checked all fuses and it has the abs wireing redone by a dealer before I owned it dated 2016 on invoice so hope it's not, the problem also was very sudden just one morning the lights did not go off

Is there a specific DTC?

Hi People... I have the same problem on my Octavia 2.0 VRS petrol 2011 with warning lights on the dash, ABS and traction control and handbrake. Scan showed faulty ABS module/pump so now I have 2 options.

1. take it off and send for repair @ £200 plus VAT includes a lifetime guarantee 1 week turn around.... OR

2. Buy a second hand one for £100 but would need to re-code with 3 months warranty.

 

If I decide to buy the second hand one which needs a re-code, is this easy and cheap and is there a process that needs following to capture the existing module codes?

 

Thanks in advance and will continue to post during repair for people to follow.   

I have read from other threads that it's best practice to extract the existing codes doing an autoscan from the ABS module using a Ross Tech VCDS device. Do you have to actually plug in or can this also be done from the VIN number remotely?  Thank you. 

You should definitely backup the existing coding and adaptions before removing the ABS module. It'll make coding the new one much easier. It'll also give you chance to check what fault codes are present to confirm if the module actually needs replacing.

 

VCDS would be my choice but OBDeleven and other tools designed for VAG vehicles should be able to show the existing coding. You'd need the tool to recode the replacement ABS module and perform basic settings once fitted.

 

Info about the various basic settings that'll need performing: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_(1K)_Brake_Electronics_(MK60EC1)

Thank you very much langers2k.... The current fault codes are 01276 ABS hydraulic pump faulty and 01130 ABS Operation Implausible Signal which was read from a high spec diagnostic device but I don't think it's not got the capabilities to re-code (thanks to a neighbour) I don't have a VCDS type tool so I will need to ask about locally. What would be the cost of this kind of service? 

 

I am edging towards a second hand unit rather than a repair.

 

  

Reading the existing coding is a five minute job with VCDS. Assuming there is a briskoda member with VCDS near you, they'd probably do it for the price of a beer

 

Coding the replacement and running through the various basic settings is probably about 20-30 minutes? I expect a garage would change an hour's labour.

 

Looking at those faults:

- http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01276

- http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01130

 

As a starting point, I'd be checking the fuses and load testing both power feeds and the ground for the ABS pump. I only mention this as the MK60EC1 pumps are generally quite reliable.

 

Once you're satisfied the wiring is in good condition, a used ABS module should be fine. Just make sure you buy a compatible module as there are quite a few versions. Assuming you do the scan to backup the coding to start with, it should also show what module you currently have

OK that is what I kind of expected. I could check the fuse once I've identify which one drives the ABS pump/module. Regards to power loading - I wouldn't know where to start unless I can find someone local and knowledgeable. The car has done 137k now and had it since new and its my pride and joy. Its not been used much in the past year, probably 500 miles due to lockdown and WFH.

 

At the same time as the ABS, traction control and handbrake light illuminated the EPS light flashed up for 5 mins but went out and stayed out since. Also the next day the engine warning light come on which indicated purge issue which turned out to be a faulty (ticking) N80 valve which I replaced last week which fixed the engine warning light.  The ABS, traction control and handbrake light have always stayed on, the diagnostics do clear fault codes but return immediately after. 

 

Regards to versions I have noticed the last 2 letters generally change, mine is 1K0614517CN which I have found several in the used market thankfully.

 

Thank you so much for your help.

OK that is what I kind of expected. I could check the fuse once I've identify which one drives the ABS pump/module. Regards to power loading - I wouldn't know where to start unless I can find someone local and knowledgeable. The car has done 137k now and had it since new and its my pride and joy. Its not been used much in the past year, probably 500 miles due to lockdown and WFH.

 

At the same time as the ABS, traction control and handbrake light illuminated the EPS light flashed up for 5 mins but went out and stayed out since. Also the next day the engine warning light come on which indicated purge issue which turned out to be a faulty (ticking) N80 valve which I replaced last week which fixed the engine warning light.  The ABS, traction control and handbrake light have always stayed on, the diagnostics do clear fault codes but return immediately after. 

 

We thought that the 01130 is there because of the 01276 and when 01276 is cleared that will also clear the 01130 fault... now I am unsure that would be the case after reading the 2 links above. 

 

Regards to versions I have noticed the last 2 letters generally change, mine is 1K0614517CN which I have found several in the used market thankfully.

 

Thank you so much for your help.

 

Common issue?

Check cabin fuse 2, and fuses 4 and 25 under the bonnet, @trabolgan.

10 hours ago, bigjohn said:

Common issue?

 

Pretty sure trabolgan will have a MK60EC1 fitted in a 2011 car whereas that thread is about the older MK60 ABS module

 

Have you checked the battery is in good condition? Failing batteries can cause lots of strange issues.

 

Load testing a wire is pretty simple, there are a few videos on youtube. Looking at my notes when I retrofitted a MK60EC1:

- pin 1 goes to fuse 25 E-box (40A)

- pin 8 goes A38 (Positive connection -2- (15a), in dash panel wiring harness which is probably cabin fuse 2 mentioned by Wino)

- pin 32 goes to fuse 4 E-box (20A)

- pin 47 goes to earth

Thanks Wino and Langer2k for your input.... very much appreciated. That is a good shout about the battery. The battery has just about had the juice to start the car recently and I do plan to change it. My plan is to buy a new battery today and fit it then check the fuses before removing the ABS module. I shall keep you informed. 

So an update.... battery now changed. EPS and low tyre pressure lights come on along with the original ABS, Traction control and handbrake. A short drive and the EPS and low tyre pressure went off still leaving the ABS, TC and HB. All 3 fuses checked and looked ok, the legs on the fuse in the cabin (No2) had yellow stain on the legs but so have the other 5amp fuses I looked at as a comparison. No brakes in the fuse itself.  Load testing next if I can work it out... thanks people!  

Further update... cleared the fault codes after changing the battery using diagnostic machine and only have fault code 01130 now (01276 has gone). Drove it @40mph to try and clear 01130 after clearing the codes but all 3 lights are still illuminated. They will not get the message and go away lol... any thoughts before I go ahead and buy a second hand module/pump and replace it? 

So a final update to the thread... Today we fitted the new (second hand) replacement ABS pump / module (MK60EC1) to my 2011 petrol VRS Octavia. We obtained the module code from the existing module using an autoscan with VCDS before removal. Fitment wasn't overly strait forward with the biggest issue being fitting the brake hoses onto the replacement module without cross threading. We had an issue with the back top hose engaging with the module thread and felt quite tight. It did leak a little but final tightened it enough for it to stop. Run through the re-coding on the new module using VCDS which went fine and now all warning lights have finally gone out with great relief. I want to thank everyone who contributed to the thread particularly Langers2k and Wino.