2.0 TDi 150 timing belt interval?

[MrRich]

I'm struggling to find the definitive answer online.

 

What is the timing belt change interval on the Superb 150 2.0 TDI?

 

Thank you.

[Shugmo]

5 years or 140k miles

 

[Shugmo]

[MrRich]

Thanks Shugmo.  That diagram you've shown aligns the timing belt with 5 years or 50k miles though, not 5 years and 140k miles?

[Broadld]

@MrRich I rang dealer about mine and it depends what plate the car is. My 66 plate plate was 5 years or 140k miles. I think 2015 or older were 4 years or 140k miles. They used to be 10 years but apparently Skoda UK changed the years down. Not sure if this was due to premature failures. Other countries I think still have 10 years.

[Danoid]

If you live in any other European country it’s changed every 210k km or something close to that (could be 120km) and doesn’t matter on age.

 

If anyone can crack why that is other than rip off Britain I’d love to know 

Edited 15 May, 2021 by Danoid

[MrRich]

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

[SuperbTWM]

21 hours ago, Danoid said:

If you live in any other European country it’s changed every 210k km or something close to that (could be 120km) and doesn’t matter on age.

 

If anyone can crack why that is other than rip off Britain I’d love to know 

 

Because they want to get at least 1 timing belt change in before the car is at an age where the owner doesn't really care about main dealer servicing. 

 

This is a bit of a pointless discussion anyhow because the waterpumps that VAG fit either leak or the solenoid operated sleeve fails and causes overheating way before 5 years so might as well do the timing belt job then 

[Shugmo]

On 14/05/2021 at 18:29, MrRich said:

Thanks Shugmo.  That diagram you've shown aligns the timing belt with 5 years or 50k miles though, not 5 years and 140k miles?

Yep, and that is still less confusing than asking VW themselves 

 

Many have asked the question and the answer seems to be that UK only is 5 years, the rest of Europe is 10 years inspection, replace if necessary!

 

For me, the car is out of warranty so it will be my gamble when the time comes in 8 months. I'll probably be near to 80,000 miles then so will get it done.

 

[plasma99]

I'm not adhering to the Skoda UK recommendation of a change every 5 years/50K miles but I don't recommend it if you are of a nervous disposition.  I do think about it a lot when driving the car and do keep a close eye on the forums.  Since I plan on keeping the car for the long term, I will probably change the belt after 7-8 years/70K miles since I will have to do one belt change anyway.  If the water pump is the weak point, I will just keep a close eye on the coolant level.

 

People claim they change it for "peace of mind" (oh, the cost is only the equivalent of only one costa coffee per week) but I regard it as a protection racket which I am going to try and not fall victim to.  I don't think the Germans would recommend a 10 year/210km change/inspection unless they had solid data to back it up.

[J.R.]

That pushed me to do a proper inspection of my cam belt, before I could only partially remove the cover, this time I got it off and had a really close look.

 

Verdict?

 

After 6 years and 94000 miles it is as good as new and won't be changed.

 

I did the first one on my MK1 Octavia at 225000 miles, first and last one as the £8 replacement was still perfect when it was crapped at 325000 miles, original tensioner, idler pulleys, waterpump etc.

 

I had been inspecting it regularly and changed it when I noticed the first signs of degradation which is what I will do with this one, degradation or contamination which to date has never happened but could and would be unseen hence the need for regular inspections, now I know what else to remove to get the cover off I wont be put off.

[plasma99]

11 hours ago, J.R. said:

I had been inspecting it regularly and changed it when I noticed the first signs of degradation which is what I will do with this one, degradation or contamination which to date has never happened but could and would be unseen hence the need for regular inspections, now I know what else to remove to get the cover off I wont be put off.

J.R., any chance you could outline the procedure for getting the cover off and exactly what to look for in terms of degradation?  I would like to do my first inspection at 6 years.

[J.R.]

Its different for every engine type & is really dependant on how much emissions crap obstructs the removal of the top cover.

 

Its usually 3 thumb release clips and then wriggle the cover out upwards, then coping with the anxiety of how you will get it back in place because it usually takes a lot of pulling and twisting to extract it. On my current car the hardest part was removing the fuel pipes & emissions guff in the way.

 

Once exposed you look for oil or coolant contamination, check the root of the teeth where the belt turned backwards over the tensioner pulley, this will open any developing fissures. Check the outside of the belt (much easier) as it also is in contact with guide rollers.

 

On the belt with the stratospheric mileage the teeth were still good and it was the outer that started to degrade and expose the belt fibres.

 

A factory built engine will have the best possible quality belt fitted, you cannot have the same faith in a replacement one even if bought from VAG as its a seperate supply chain and when a vehicle is no longer manufactured they will certainly be pattern parts, even the OE manufacturers often sell two different qualities of the same part, one for the assembly line one for servicing, batteries are a really good example.

 

That is why I prefer to get the maximum mileage out of the original belt and have more confidence in it than any that I subsequently fit, those get inspected at closer intervals.

[uglyroge]

On 21/05/2021 at 12:36, J.R. said:

Its different for every engine type & is really dependant on how much emissions crap obstructs the removal of the top cover.

 

Its usually 3 thumb release clips and then wriggle the cover out upwards, then coping with the anxiety of how you will get it back in place because it usually takes a lot of pulling and twisting to extract it. On my current car the hardest part was removing the fuel pipes & emissions guff in the way.

 

Once exposed you look for oil or coolant contamination, check the root of the teeth where the belt turned backwards over the tensioner pulley, this will open any developing fissures. Check the outside of the belt (much easier) as it also is in contact with guide rollers.

 

On the belt with the stratospheric mileage the teeth were still good and it was the outer that started to degrade and expose the belt fibres.

 

A factory built engine will have the best possible quality belt fitted, you cannot have the same faith in a replacement one even if bought from VAG as its a seperate supply chain and when a vehicle is no longer manufactured they will certainly be pattern parts, even the OE manufacturers often sell two different qualities of the same part, one for the assembly line one for servicing, batteries are a really good example.

 

That is why I prefer to get the maximum mileage out of the original belt and have more confidence in it than any that I subsequently fit, those get inspected at closer intervals.

You can't check the condition of the pulley bearings by looking! I've had too many of them seize so have learnt the hard way.

[J.R.]

I never claimed that you could, I was responding to a request for detailed information as to how I visually check my timing belt.

 

I have ears and a high level of mechanical sympathy.