D.FYLAKTOS, my friend, I have much respect for your enthusiasm and dedication (and of course for Trusty herself) and thank you for this long thread in which so many interesting points have been raised.

 

I hope you will forgive me for for coming in with a few questions and tips of my own which are a little off the original ‘scoop’ topic - from an old man who has for many years been keeping the good old cars on the road for as long as possible - but here seems to be as good a place as any.

If whilst on vacation you have been watching your - expensive! - gasoline consumption, have you noticed worse-than-expected figures due to the unusual high temperatures in Greece recently?

 

I am mindful that Trusty is no longer a copella  - not a ‘spring chicken’ anymore, rather a very elegant, more mature lady but who can still run with the best of them ‘with her skirts up’.

 

Some time ago you mentioned taking Trusty out on the National Highway for performance testing (with a wary eye open for the Traffic Police). This made me remember the opening of the first long National Highway in England - the M1 Motorway - and what happened next.  It leads me to two important tips.

 

1.  The ‘boy racers’ were suddenly able to drive their cars like mad on the new M1 (no speed limit back then) .... and did so ... much to their regret when they destroyed their big end bearings with excessively high revs.
Here’s the point - most drivers are unaware that the inertial load on the big end bearings increases NOT with the revs, but with the SQUARE of the revs - so going from 2000 to 6000 rpm doesn’t increase this load x3,  but x9 !  ...  ouch !!.
This knowlege has served me well over the years ...when I bought my Magic estate 9 years ago some bearing wear was already evident, so I have taken care NEVER to exceed 3000 rpm except in emergency - no hardship, and works a treat, she’s still going strong as ever.

 

2.  The other thing that happened with the opening of the M1 Motorway ... one of the big oil companies staged a huge publicity stunt to promote their engine oil.  They took six new production cars, drove each continuously up and down the M1 for 100,000 miles then stripped the engines and reported on the wear.   I still have a copy of their glossy report somewhere, much to their glee the original machining marks were still visible on some of the cylinder bores and of course they pushed their results hard as evidence of the quality of their lubricants.
Here’s the point - the oil company was perhaps a bit disingenuous because those engines were kept running 24/7 to clock up 100,000 miles swiftly, so they never had chance to get cold.   Even then, lubricants were generally very adequate, and we now understand that really severe damage is caused by corrosive condensed combustion products if an engine is switched off before it is thoroughly warmed-up, rather than by oil problems.
Accordingly, I have ever since taken care NEVER to switch off a cold engine, even when needing only to move a very short distance, but always warm up  ... that also has served me well for longer than I care to think about.

 

That will have to be enough for now, and I look forward to raising a few smaller points more directly relevant to the original questions if I may on your return from vacation.

7 hours ago, Skodle said:

Trusty is no longer a copella

 

Wow @Skodle, how did you know that the word Copela is used here in Greece? 😀

 

7 hours ago, Skodle said:

have you noticed worse-than-expected figures due to the unusual high temperatures in Greece recently?

 

Due to some adjustments the Mpg got better that the other years, i will post the results in the other topic.

 

7 hours ago, Skodle said:

I have ever since taken care NEVER to switch off a cold engine, even when needing only to move a very short distance, but always warm up  ... that also has served me well for longer than I care to think about.

 

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499328-how-much-time-do-you-warm-up-your-felicia/

 

I have opened a thread for this, soon i will post some results and questions from new test.

__________________________________________

 

The idea behind the hood scoop is to protect my (not good design and material) sponge filter from water (rain-car washing) leaves etc and then to try to seal the existing oval gasket with the hood because as i have shown there is a small gap.

Who cares modern lubricants are far ahead

Here is another example of why i want a small hood scoop in my car.

 

 

 

Every few weeks the sponge filter is full or leafs, small branshes, dog bristles etc that pass easily from thet black grill on the hood.

?

What are you fitting, a scoop with a grill and a filter behind?

 

EDIT.

Sorry missed seeing this. Now i know. 

Edited 10 September, 20241 yr by Ootohere

3 hours ago, Ootohere said:

?

 

 

This is my problem:

 

 

and one solution is something like this:

 

JESUS, it looks hideous

wrong cable routing btw

18 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

JESUS, it looks hideous

wrong cable routing btw

 

Are the cables for extra Led lights with their own waterproof fuse holder.

 

Take a look at this today:

 

 

 

I think that the solution is something like this:

 

 

 

But it's too big in 37cm, the factory grill is 6 cm height.

Edited 6 March, 20251 yr by D.FYLAKTOS

I wonder why they do the dimensions so different?

It's supposed to be for Felicia.

 

 

12,5 cm Height - 15 cm Depth x 66 cm Length

 

In the hood the dimensions of the factory grille are 66 cm and 5 cm, what's the reason to be 12,5 height? The depth also is huge, why 15?

 

On 10/09/2024 at 17:53, Thefeliciahacker said:

JESUS, it looks hideous

wrong cable routing btw

 

This is from a ferrari.

 

 

Looks better huh?

Update: I made a patent to seal better the hood with the oval shape gasket of the engine bay.

I took a sheet of soft self-adhesive insulation, put it above that gasket and closed the hood so this will create a mark of it's shape.

then i took inside the hose and cut it.

Then i went outside the road where the car was parked and i install it around the ''lips'' of the hood which bring fresh air inside the factory sponge air cabin filter.

Yes i know doesn’t look very good but i won't go to a car-show.

My main concern is that the gasket will touch that soft material and with the one-click of pressure will make a better ''sealing'' situation than before so no fumes from the engine can ''penetrate'' inside and then to the cabin.

PS: That insulation material can stand high temperatures with no problem.

It has a rubber seal, its okay by the factory.

On 10/03/2025 at 12:52, Thefeliciahacker said:

It has a rubber seal, its okay by the factory.

No, here is the proof with photos.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/493532-skoda-felicia-hood-scoop/page/4/#findComment-5762486

I haven't give up trying to find a solution.

I will try to take some benefit from the gap that there is in the factory hood.

I bought a activated carbon cabin filter from Comline (UK product)

to replace the factory sponge filter that i have.

My main problem is that in case of getting wet takes long time to get dry and i have bad smell inside the cabin plus the windshield gets foggy.

For sure that solution isn't like a factory cabin filter that other cars have but it's better than the one that i have although some drivers here have have removed the sponge completely and have it ''free''.

This is unacceptable for me because i have issues here with tree leaves, dog-cat bristles etc as i have shown in previous pictures.

I took that activated carbon cabin filter and disassembled it, measure and cut it.

creating a ''sheet'' which i put it via adhesive tape beneath the factory hood oval shape hole thus ''filtering'' the incoming air before goes to the cabin.

For sure this patent can not compared with a factory cabin filter but it's better than nothing and far better than the sponge-solution that i had.

What's next? A sealing test and a real-condition air flow test (since i don't have the proper equipment to do more experiments).

On 18/03/2025 at 10:15, D.FYLAKTOS said:

from Comline (UK product)

A new company to me so just had a quick look, their HQ is the next county to me Bedford(shire). Their site marketing blurb has me a little itchy - "Not a budget brand but a value brand." - "As a genuine alternative to higher-priced OE brands,".

But as they only distribute the filters and other(s) manufacture them they may well be as good as others. - "Comline has forged links with some of the world’s foremost filter production facilities."

A quick look at their catalogue and their products seem like they could be good. - https://www.comline.uk.com/

The owners look like they would know others in the UK car parts and consumables businesses and they also hold another formerly well known old established company name/brand of MOTAQUIP whose product (distributor cap) I believe I might have used in the last 10 years and it was good IIRC. - https://motaquip.com/about-version-2/

Edited 4 April, 20251 yr by nta16
spelling

For 15 euro per unit i can make at least 8 "sheets" so this filter will last 4 years if i use 2 of them per year.

The "seal test" was successful, more in a future post with photos.

I put a piece of electrical tape (upside down) to see if i close the hood then the activated carbon cabin filter will contact firmly with the oval shape rubber seal?

The yellow mark shows the exactly point that i put that tape, i close the hood and

yes, the tape stuck to the sheet so no gap, things are OK. 👍