Hey guys, I've recently bought a 2016 superb 3. Went to replace a fuse this morning for the rear trunk lights and noticed an add a fuse already in my fuse board. Followed it out and it came to a fleet management box gps. Researched it and see from the install instructions that it didn't interact with the car other than take power from the fuse board to run. So not wanting a snooping box in my car I removed it. I took out the add a fuse and replaced it with a fresh 5A. The location was either f16, F17 or F18. Should have paid more attention to that, I know.

Went to start after and nothing. No ignition at all. Car locks and chirps fine. But insert the key and there is no power flow.  Any ideas?? 

Try a fuse in each of those positions in turn, or all three if you have a couple more spares.

Edited 20 June, 20214 yr by Wino

I've tryed that, I put a 5a fuse in all three places. And take a fuse out in all combination. 

 

It should be obvious which slot the fuse belongs in, it'll be the only one with metal contacts on both sides of the fuse slot 

Try plugging the box back in. It may be linked somehow to the immobiliser.

@xman I've tryed that. Ran in 12V direct from the battery to the tracker module. Thought the autoleads module could be a wireless switch of some sort. But it's only a phantom ignition module of sorts. Tells the gps box when the car is started by putting 12v down a blue wire when the red wire has 14v (charging)

Photo of fuse box would be helpful.

 

 

 

@xman first photo shows the box, second with the red square shows where the unit was plugged in. Third shows the add a fuse I was on about. 

Fuse 17 is instrument cluster, does the cluster light up or do something when you turn on ignition?

 

Check the fuse style you used (orange fuse) is correct, its possible it may be micro or mini, different blade sizes and positioning

Cluster does squat when you put in the key. Center display Will show up that the doors are open and the milage ect when you open doors and unlock the car but other than that nothing. 

 

All the fuses are minis. I've tryed putting back in the add a fuse in all locations around there to see if I missed something. I don't think I have tho. It feels like an ignition relay problem. But can find no info on what relay does what  

 

Check all relays are pushed home and you didnt dislodge one.

You have checked the fuses arent blown? (Meter?)

Checked fuses there with a meter. Looks like a huge block of them aren't getting power. Fuse board in the engine compartment is shown below. The area circled in red has no power. Items listed in the fuse catalog include ECU, rad fan and ignition relay. 

These are getting Jo power in the interior board

So all my fuses are sound. Are there any fusible links or such supplying the PCM either inside or outside in the engine bay??

 

So the 645 relay in the top right of the engine bay fuse board pic comes on when you open the door, powering on the bank of fuses beside it. It then goes off 10 seconds later. Should this relay be powered the whole time for ignition?? 

I think you should concentrate for now on position 17 (instrument cluster fuse) thats probably where the addon was inserted. I wonder if you accidently pushed the fuse receptacles back when inserting a fuse slightly off true. Is there any power on fuse 17 when you turn ignition on? 

 

Have you a multimeter?

 

Check the battery voltage, is it healthy, above 12v? Maybe the battery is flat.

 

Fuses should be continuity checked by meter, a visual check may be misleading.

 

 

 

Have you tried a battery disconnect incase it has tripped a module? (I'm Assuming you don't have a diagnostic).

@xman Battery voltage 12.1 

 

Fuse 16,17,18 all have 12v each side of the fuse. Taken fuses out and checked continuity (meter). Fitted new fuses.

@UndertheRadar I'll do a battery disconnect now. 

3 minutes ago, JesseD90 said:

@xman Battery voltage 12.1 

 

Fuse 16,17,18 all have 12v each side of the fuse. Taken fuses out and checked continuity (meter). Fitted new fuses.

@UndertheRadar I'll do a battery disconnect now. 

Its a long shot, but if anything managed to hit a body panel when disconnecting its possible it tripped a module somewhere along the system. If it was more than a trip you'd have found a blown fuse before now.

I wonder if the car has an third party remote immobiliser fitted and hidden away somewhere that you've triggered by removing a fuse?

 

If you bought the car within the last 30 days from a dealer or trader, then it may be easier to just let them fix it under the Consumer rights Act 2015.

 

Don't tell them what you've done though!

Would a remote immobilizer be standard in a fleet vehicle??

 

No idea, but such things exist.

@xmanHmm, I'll ring the number on the gps module tomorrow and ask them what's normally fitted to their vehicles. Maybe they can point me in the right direction. 

@UndertheRadar how long would you suggest for the battery disconnect?? 

Just now, JesseD90 said:

@xmanHmm, I'll ring the number on the gps module tomorrow and ask them what's normally fitted to their vehicles. Maybe they can point me in the right direction. 

@UndertheRadar how long would you suggest for the battery disconnect?? 

30min

I supposed youve tried the spare key, and made sure the car is in P if its an automatic?