Could you evaluate the situation with cylinder head and head gasket please?

[R_Blue]

Hello everyone. With a lot going on with life and the car, an urgent situation have arisen. After cleaning the carburettor, initial crank in the mornings was hard. I thought it was LPG issue with choke mechanism. There was no white smoke. None excessive coolant drop. But I checked the oil cap some time ago and found only a little amount of jelly like grease. Not mayonnaise like. I thought its maybe the oil getting old. I wiped it and it didn't came again for some time. I checked regularly and started to see more jelly like oil under the oil cap. The frequency was increased. Finally I saw a white smoke coming from tail pipe in long bursts for the first time two days ago. There is a 74ºC thermostat so temp gauge sits at the bottom line. When climbing a hill or going full throttle on highway under scorching sun, the needle goes up until it reaches straight middle or only a a little up. It never reached the red section. White smoke happens if I stop the engine when the temp gauge is near straight middle and I start it again when the engine is still hot. I never saw white smoke on mornings.

I went to a mechanic and he told me that there might be small leak from head gasket but he couldn't be quite sure.

 

The problem is, the previous owner claimed that the head gasket had been replaced just before the car's sale. It's not even 5000Km and already HGF. Doesn't make sense.

- 1993 Skoda Forman LX (I'm owner from January. Multiple previous owners. Unknown milage. I found an old bill when working inside the car. That indicates 160K Km dated 2004) Current mileage just over 100K. The car runs on LPG.

- 74ºC thermostat (unknown maker. not dismantled the housing yet)

- Calorstat by Vernet 68-82 new switch. (Installed for summer, the car had 87-92 before)

- Brand new magneti-marelli radiator.

- Fuchs Ethylene glycol based blue antifreeze with %50 distilled water. (The car had murky coolant which had -10ºC measured capacity when I got it. Flushed twice with distilled water and used 50/50 with the same brand ever since)

- Castrol GTX 20W-50 LPG motor oil. Changed 3400Km ago. (I bought this 4+1 liter. the engine took 3 and near a half initially. I poured the last drop last week and oil level was between max and middle. I was assuming this will be enough for the next change at 5000Km. So, oil consumption is something like 1.5L for 5000Km)

- Bosch 165959455G VW six blade fan motor with Felicia full fan cover 6U0121207. (Direct connection to battery. Runs after full stop)

 

I've just dismantled the head gasket. Please take a look.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[R_Blue]

Additional photos:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Side notes:

The cylinder head is not an original one.

Bolts number 8,9,1,5,4 has sludge on them. Foul smelling. Like septic water.

Bolts number 6,3,10 are heavily corroded and has missing threads. Yet, They were hardest to remove.

Bolts number 1 and 2 was easiest to remove with very little effort. Like not torqued very well.

[Thefeliciahacker]

Head gasket was gone were you using coolant or water, chase the threads on the block use NEW BOLTS, cylinder 4 was getting steam cleaned both the hg and its color prove that. Its a good thing, you caught the damage really early, you just saved your head and your engine, clean the head with scotch brite and see how it looks, you may not even need to machine it

Edited 15 July, 2021 by Thefeliciahacker

[Thefeliciahacker]

10 hours ago, R_Blue said:

oil consumption is something like 1.5L for 5000Km

unacceptable for a felly engine these engines dont use ANY oil 

[R_Blue]

9 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Head gasket was gone were you using coolant or water, chase the threads on the block use NEW BOLTS, cylinder 4 was getting steam cleaned both the hg and its color prove that. Its a good thing, you caught the damage really early, you just saved your head and your engine, clean the head with scotch brite and see how it looks, you may not even need to machine it

So this is good news. Thanks for answering.

People around here usually buy antifreeze only once maybe in two years or more. They tend to add tap water found on fuel stations to top-up their coolant. I think my car was not different before me. When I hugged bottles of distilled water from a fuel station the cashier asked me what I was going to do with all the distilled water. When I told him that I would use them all for preparing 50/50 coolant for the car. He gave me a blank look. One of the first thing when I got the car was flushing the old coolant with distilled water twice and I used 50/50 coolant and distilled water ever since.

 

The coolant I used is Fuchs with these specifications:

-ASTM D 3306 -ASTM D 4985 -AFNOR NF R 15-601 -BS 6580:1992 -BUNDESWEHRTL 6805-0038 -SAE J 1034

 

When I saw your post, I was busy cleaning the cylinder head. When I read your reply about oil consumption, I packed up immediately and took the way for a machine shop. The decision behind this was, valve seal replacement and the indents circling each cylinder.

The mechanics at the machine shop told me that the cylinder head was crap quality.

They did the polishing of the surface, valve re-seating, valve cleaning, valve seal replacement, complete cleaning with a special washing machine.

They also told me there might be an overheating issue with the car.

 

After one hour of gentle work with 2K sand paper, scotch brite and brake cleaner. Just before I went for the machine shop.

https://pasteboard.co/KbkobXL.jpg

 

Machine shop results:

https://pasteboard.co/KbkqNZW.jpg

https://pasteboard.co/Kbkrezg.jpg

 

 

New parts:

https://pasteboard.co/Kbks9ebn.jpg

https://pasteboard.co/Kbkswmc.jpg

 

Now I was thinking about thread cleaning and

areed 's Felicia 1.3 Cylinder Head Corrosion Around Coolant Ways

topic really helped me. Thanks! I'll prepare a DIY thread chaser like that.

I'll update the progress.

 

[Thefeliciahacker]

13 hours ago, R_Blue said:

BS 6580:1992

yes this standard I adhere to, although old, it seems like if (green) antifrezees get replaced every 2 years they protect better than "long life" g11 12 13+

 

13 hours ago, R_Blue said:

valve seal replacement and the indents

160k+ would justify valve seals somewhat

 

13 hours ago, R_Blue said:

cylinder head was crap quality

well its a sand cast head for a 60hp engine tell him to calm tf down

 

13 hours ago, R_Blue said:

might be an overheating issue with the car

how so?

 

13 hours ago, R_Blue said:

https://pasteboard.co/KbkobXL.jpg

doesn't look bad surface wise no pitting although you would need a straigth egde to check for warping. I bet they did NOT skim that much off the head

 

13 hours ago, R_Blue said:

https://pasteboard.co/Kbks9ebn.jpg

https://pasteboard.co/Kbkswmc.jpg

ELRING is top notch,

the bolts you bought from the hardware store make absolutely sure they are of grade 8.8 or higher otherwise goodbye bolt

13 hours ago, R_Blue said:

topic really helped me. Thanks! I'll prepare a DIY thread chaser like that.

yes cut two notches with the perpendicular side facing the direction of rotation

 

Edited 16 July, 2021 by Thefeliciahacker

[Thefeliciahacker]

also maybe now that you have the head off the car would be the right time to do some port matching and polishing, taking the casting flash off and generally cleaning up the airflow DON'T PORT JUST POLISH AND SMOOTH THEM OUT it costs nothing and is going to give you performance without any drawbacks

[R_Blue]

On 16/07/2021 at 12:08, Thefeliciahacker said:

well its a sand cast head for a 60hp engine tell him to calm tf down

That's spot on. Well said.

On 16/07/2021 at 12:08, Thefeliciahacker said:

how so?

There is a dark area in the pictures between middle cylinders. When the mechanics measured with a straight edge, they found an unacceptable gap.

On 16/07/2021 at 12:08, Thefeliciahacker said:

the bolts you bought from the hardware store make absolutely sure they are of grade 8.8 or higher otherwise goodbye bolt

If we were near, I could buy you a beer.

 

Again, another post from you has altered the work in a good way. Again, when I read your post yesterday, I was working on cleaning the cylinders. On closer inspection, I realized that, some of the bolts are marked 10.9 but some of them are from different makers and unmarked. AND one of them had a hidden defect inside the allen head! So I quit and went to that shop. They changed the defected one, gave me more 10.9 marked ones but there was not enough stock. They showed me the new stock's bulk box and they are 10.9 too.

 

On 16/07/2021 at 12:08, Thefeliciahacker said:

yes cut two notches with the perpendicular side facing the direction of rotation

https://pasteboard.co/KbDNMhzS.jpg

https://pasteboard.co/KbDO44G.jpg

This really helped me to solve an impossible looking problem. 3 of the 10 holes were terrible. One hole was filled like 1 cm from bottom with corrosion residues. It took between 10-20 screw in and out cycle to clean the worst ones. (Without a power tool It took hours to complete just doing the thread chasing)

On 16/07/2021 at 12:15, Thefeliciahacker said:

also maybe now that you have the head off the car would be the right time to do some port matching and polishing, taking the casting flash off and generally cleaning up the airflow DON'T PORT JUST POLISH AND SMOOTH THEM OUT it costs nothing and is going to give you performance without any drawbacks

In the machine shop, made in a hurry but they did some polishing too.

 

Going to hardware store again, postponed the work again. So last night, I worked until late hours.

Markings from piston number one and two respectively:

https://pasteboard.co/KbDSszN.jpg

https://pasteboard.co/KbDT9LT.jpg

I didn't use any power tools. Those circular marks are either from factory or someone else who cleaned them before. I used scotch brite, 220 grit sand paper and alcohol.

Before working on each piston surface, I raised them to the max upper level and greased the gap around them. After cleaning, I wiped the gap with a small brush and lowered the pistons. Rest of the dusty grease stays on the liner surface so wiped it from there.

I also used liner holders before making anything that would move the pistons. After finishing cleaning all piston surfaces, I cleaned all liners again gave their inner surface one last wipe with an oily cloth.

 

How do I read these markings on the pistons? Are they from 1987?

 

Head gasket in place:

https://pasteboard.co/KbDZ8Ea.jpg

This Elring head gasket is for Fabia 1.4 engine. If you can't find it for Felicia, Favorit or Forman in your local stores, ask for 1.4 Fabia with engine codes AZE AME AQW.

 

inside of cylinder head cover: (BEFORE CLEANING!)

https://pasteboard.co/KbE6ZRg.jpg

Inside of the cap: See the jelly like oil buildup I mentioned.

https://pasteboard.co/KbE7PWW.jpg

 

After valve clearance adjustment: (There was zero clearance!)

https://pasteboard.co/KbE9uHM.jpg

 

Now, I want to share some important details and what failures I did:

Over torquing :

Late night and racing towards the end, tightening bolts and nuts one and another, carried me away and woke up the monkey inside of me. So I over tightened one bolt at valve lever shaft. You can see in the picture, there is a different bolt in there. A slightly longer bolt, rescued the day.

Under torquing : Today I finished connecting everything including LPG stuff. Double checked every hose and clamp. I filled the system with coolant and before the first start, I saw coolant at the back of the engine all over the place and there was some at the back of the cylinder head cover. It was intake manifold leaking coolant all over the place.

I used a new gasket for manifolds too but it seems there is a special tightening sequence for manifolds too that I didn't know. I tightened them again and the leak is gone.

After the first start, engine sound was different. It sounded more like a light pick-up before. Now it sounds like a Renault R9 1.4 engine.

No road tests yet. I'm not sure if the exhaust manifold is leaking or not. It was wet and smoking so I left the road test to tomorrow.

 

Is it ok to use normal nuts for the front row of the cylinder head? Old nuts were looking rusty so I used new M8 nuts with spring washers and torqued them to 26nm.

[Thefeliciahacker]

8 hours ago, R_Blue said:

When the mechanics measured with a straight edge, they found an unacceptable gap.

emm thats why you skim the head

 

8 hours ago, R_Blue said:

liner holders before making anything that would move the pistons

I was about to say that haha

 

8 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Fabia 1.4 engine

thats an even better headgasket upgraded from the felly and favorit ones

 

8 hours ago, R_Blue said:

There was zero clearance!

obviously as the head was skimmed the relative position changed (make sure to add the oil witout the rocker cover making sure to lube up all the rockers)

8 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Is it ok to use normal nuts for the front row of the cylinder head? Old nuts were looking rusty so I used new M8 nuts with spring washers and torqued them to 26nm

absolutely fine as long as they are the same depth (so same thread engagment)

 

8 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Over torquing :

Late night and racing towards the end, tightening bolts and nuts one and another, carried me away and woke up the monkey inside of me. So I over tightened one bolt at valve lever shaft. You can see in the picture, there is a different bolt in there. A slightly longer bolt, rescued the day.

Under torquing : Today I finished connecting everything including LPG stuff. Double checked every hose and clamp. I filled the system with coolant and before the first start, I saw coolant at the back of the engine all over the place and there was some at the back of the cylinder head cover. It was intake manifold leaking coolant all over the place.

I used a new gasket for manifolds too but it seems there is a special tightening sequence for manifolds too that I didn't know. I tightened them again and the leak is gone.

Well thats why I never ever worked when I'm tired and thats the reason I dont trust mechanics when you or me or they are tired mistakes will happen and some of them will be seen down the line.

 

8 hours ago, R_Blue said:

If we were near, I could buy you a beer

Cheers

Edited 18 July, 2021 by Thefeliciahacker

[R_Blue]

Having the oil not very contaminated encouraged me to to take the car for a short trip today. (Oil stick has no sign of mayo)

 

Differences:

I had to adjust LPG settings before hitting the road. idle RPM was low.

This is not placebo, the engine definitely runs smoother and quieter at the same idle rpm. It runs so smooth now there are times I felt I stalled the engine. So this confirms there was compression leak between cylinders.

The initial crank is like modern injection cars. FAST! I turn the key, and the engine starts. This is with LPG! I haven't tried fuel yet.

Hoses have noticeably less pressure.

The engine runs cooler than before but not much. Today was 40ºC ish but engine heat was the same like days when temperature was 30-35. There is noticeable improvement but not miracles I hoped for. After all the work done, I fell more uncomfortable with inadequate cooling system. I have to do something about it.

 

The previous owner gave me a list of parts that had been replaced before the sale. Head gasket was among them. So the story here is; the car was overheated and cylinder head was warped and the repair was done wrong. So it didn't last long as it should. (At least 50K kilometers I think) I never overheated the car. Only one possibility maybe a defective temp gauge which shows wrong. I will test that too.

 

I bought new oil and oil filter. Before the head gasket work, I've collected the coolant. It looks very clean. Bright blue with minimal debris and no sign of oil so I filtered it with a folded, tight woven cloth and reused it. But when I think about combustion gasses leak to coolant, there may be chemical reaction. So it is a good idea to change the coolant too.

Edited 19 July, 2021 by R_Blue
Typo

[Thefeliciahacker]

3 minutes ago, R_Blue said:

engine runs cooler than before but not much

Obviously leak was minor

 

4 minutes ago, R_Blue said:

I fell more uncomfortable with inadequate cooling system. I have to do something about it.

What made you feel uncomfortable what gives you the impression that the car may overheat 

 

5 minutes ago, R_Blue said:

So it is a good idea to change the coolant too.

Well coolant corrosion inhibitors get depleted with time but it doesn't really hurt to do do anyways. 

[RicardoM]

@R_Blue

Congratulations for the photos and the details you gave along this topic. That is an example of how to share information to maximize the chances to get the best reply.

I have two questions for you:

1. What is that contraption where the mechanical fuel pump should be?
2. Why did the guys from the machining workshop mention there will be overheating issues with the engine?

[R_Blue]

4 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

What made you feel uncomfortable what gives you the impression that the car may overheat

I think I will record a video later to show you how the car performs.

 

This photo is not mine I've found it on internet but it shows just the point when the fan switches on.

 

When driving at straights it will stay there. When climbing begins, it quickly climbs too. Strange thing is, it slows down and stays for a while at pointing straight level. That's 90º I presume. If the climb goes on, it will slowly go up. Giving the impression that it will eventually go up to the red section. I always try to keep the rev at green section with minimal gas when climbing. I'm not an aggressive driver. Instead of trying to force the car, I try to keep it to the side to let everyone pass.

 

BEFORE the head gasket repair, one day, we hit the road. 4 people inside the car. On the highway, there are sections with slight climbing. Those are the worst. I was going with 80KM/h at 4th gear. Full throttle. I don't remember the RPM but I'm sure it was well above 2000. That was the most scary day. The temp gauge needle was nowhere near the red section but it was all time high. I marked it on the picture. Climb ended at that point and there was a slight descent this time.

I accelerated up to 120Km/h easily BUT the temp didn't come down as fast as it should. My impression is, there is not enough free airflow to the radiator. Like something is blocking it. I think fan shroud is a two sided blade. While it's maximizing effectiveness of the small radiator, when there is not free airflow (dense traffic conditions in the city) it also severely cripples free airflow when the car has speed. To this time I never had any aggressive temp gauge movement in dense traffic conditions in the city. Always on slow paced steep climbs (below 40KM/h) or faster climbs (over 60Km/h)

 

Oh, I almost forgot. The car I have has been equipped with three piece splash shields, plus a heavy sump cover over that. So there is no air coming to the sump. Some of the Favorit/Forman/Felicia cars I saw before didn't have these parts. I'm sure this effects cooling too.

 

I'm not an experienced car owner but I think a car's cooling system should be designed to handle full throttle. I think, if I go to a long trip in a sunny summer day, this car's cooling system won't be able to keep the car at a mere 100Km/h.

 

As you pointed out, there may be still air in the coolant. I still have hope for better cooling. I will continue to update.

[R_Blue]

21 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

Congratulations for the photos and the details you gave along this topic. That is an example of how to share information to maximize the chances to get the best reply.

Thanks.

22 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

What is that contraption where the mechanical fuel pump should be?

That is a one piece solution for sealing mechanical pump mount and create a mounting point for a Suzuki electrical fuel pump. I've included more details about that in my other thread about leaking fuel pump problem.

 

25 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

Why did the guys from the machining workshop mention there will be overheating issues with the engine?

They found an unacceptable gap between 2nd and 3rd cylinders. That means a warped head. Naturally they asked me to find the source of the overheating issue or this would happen again.

[Thefeliciahacker]

8 hours ago, R_Blue said:

red section but it was all time high

Thats way too high for 4th gear full throttle, but it has me wondering fav based vehicles will tent to run hotter either at high loads scenarios even if at high speed or at high load low rpm.

In that sense 80kmh in 4th and full throttle means that the hill has propably really steep and car was around 3200 rpm

8 hours ago, R_Blue said:

I think fan shroud is a two sided blade

It's not because the fan opening is half the area of the shroud the air can easily exit 

 

8 hours ago, R_Blue said:

So there is no air coming to the sump

In a previous topic me and @Papez concluded that fellys and favs dont need extra oil pan cooling

 

8 hours ago, R_Blue said:

system should be designed to handle full throttle

No thats almost never the case in production cars, momentary full throttle maybe but constant maximum load maximum rpm situations will overheat the car and if not the coolant the oil is going to have an issue.

 

All the above lead to me down to 2 roads,

First, constriction of the cooling system somewhere (debries, not properly opening thermostat)

Second, car running very lean with lpg (have you measured exhaust temperatures)

[KenONeill]

@R_Blue - I'd actually agree with TFH!!

1. You have a cooling system constriction, so I'd suggest (a) Flushing the radiator (b) Checking the thermostat hasn't broken up and left debris in the water galleries and/or top hose.
2. Check the mixture if using petrol, and get the lpg properly set up.

[RicardoM]

@R_Blue

What country do you live in? I wonder why did you consider using so drastically different thermostat and radiator fan thermoswitch.

[R_Blue]

 

On 20/07/2021 at 10:04, Thefeliciahacker said:

and car was around 3200 rpm

Well... I don't know if the gearbox was replaced before. If so, the mechanics here usually fix everything plug&play type. I know, the same gearbox has different ratios for different vehicles. Mine could be any of them. 4th gear does 80Km/h under 3000rpm. Maybe the tachometer is inaccurate.

On 20/07/2021 at 10:04, Thefeliciahacker said:

It's not because the fan opening is half the area of the shroud the air can easily exit

I agree with you.

On 20/07/2021 at 10:04, Thefeliciahacker said:

In a previous topic me and @Papez concluded that fellys and favs dont need extra oil pan cooling

Good to hear that too. So I can eliminate another factor.

On 20/07/2021 at 10:04, Thefeliciahacker said:

No thats almost never the case in production cars, momentary full throttle maybe but constant maximum load maximum rpm situations will overheat the car and if not the coolant the oil is going to have an issue.

Must have guessed that.  Smartphones act like this too.

 

On 20/07/2021 at 10:04, Thefeliciahacker said:

All the above lead to me down to 2 roads,

First, constriction of the cooling system somewhere (debries, not properly opening thermostat)

Second, car running very lean with lpg (have you measured exhaust temperatures)

 

On 20/07/2021 at 11:57, KenONeill said:

@R_Blue - I'd actually agree with TFH!!

1. You have a cooling system constriction, so I'd suggest (a) Flushing the radiator (b) Checking the thermostat hasn't broken up and left debris in the water galleries and/or top hose.
2. Check the mixture if using petrol, and get the lpg properly set up.

 

So I have tried these suggestions and had some success.

I've almost completely disassembled the cooling system already. There was the metal pipe at the bottom that I didn't touch. I've removed that too but it was clean. No debris came out.

I've also bought a brand new Vernet 80ºC thermostat too. Old one was probably a random brand. Result was no change in cooling performance.

 

Mixture ratio adjustment had the most positive effect on cooling so far. That was a great help!

You were right. Mixture was lean. Also some resources about LPG setup was completely BS. It's like everything I've learned about those resources were wrong. That was a great letdown. I've felt angry,sad but happy at the same time.

I've readjusted the mixture, but this time from British and German resources. Without precision tools. It's impossible to make it perfect. I know. But even with this setting I've achieved, engine does not stall at high speeds, there is noticeable cooling improvement, engine feels slightly more powerful especially at acceleration from full stop. LPG consumption is still the same.

The new resources for LPG setting:

http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/files/tuning-open-loop.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7X_b0qmk0d4

 

Why are you not going to a professional shop to make the LPG setting? you ask right? Believe me, It's hard to find the right people to get things right. A lot people are complaining about LPG shop adjustments. For LPG shop, this is a trash job. Time consuming to adjust and not worth their time they think.

On cars with ECU, LPG settings are programmed. They are monitored by on board computers. If anything goes wrong that means $$$ to the shop.

 

Open loop system solely depends on suction. Even a minor leak from filter box will change the mix ratio. To make things proper and reliable I need a lambda and/or exhaust temp sensor on dashboard. For now, new settings are satisfactory.

 

On 21/07/2021 at 01:53, RicardoM said:

@R_Blue

What country do you live in? I wonder why did you consider using so drastically different thermostat and radiator fan thermoswitch.

I wanted to install factory spec 80º thermostat and 82-87ºC thermo-switch but it's almost impossible to find 82-87 or 80-85 from reputable manufacturers. That's mostly because general application and demand here. General approach here about thermal setup of "thermally problematic" cars around here is seasonal set-ups. Summer setting parts are consist of 74º thermostat 82-68 sw. Winter setting is 88º thermostat and 87-92 sw. When you go to a parts shop, they ask you not the value but: "do you want a thermal switch for winter? or summer?" If you walk into a parts store in these hot summer days and ask for a 87-92 switch,  It's not uncommon to hear things like: "Don't buy that one. It's winter switch! You will burn the engine! " So, in between values are somewhat extinct.

 

@Thefeliciahacker , @KenONeill , @RicardoM Thanks for all the help. I wish to find a way to repay you somehow.

[Thefeliciahacker]

5 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Smartphones act like this too.

 

Yes its called thermal throttling 

[Thefeliciahacker]

5 hours ago, R_Blue said:

A lot people are complaining about LPG shop adjustments.

Me as well cause our lpg installer was so knowledgeable he even said that the felly has hydraulic valves (self adjusting) he cant tune lpg for ****

 

5 hours ago, R_Blue said:

I need a lambda

Wideband retrofit install I reckon the easiest way to tune 

 

5 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Don't buy that one. It's winter switch! You will burn the engine! " So, in between values are somewhat extinct.

Knowing something is more dangerous than knowing nothing. 

You could try online retailers for example autodoc obviously it doesn't make financial sense for just a thermostat and thermo switch but it surely makes sense for a fair amount of spare parts and you will save the most buying on Monday 

[R_Blue]

5 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Me as well cause our lpg installer was so knowledgeable he even said that the felly has hydraulic valves (self adjusting) he cant tune lpg for ****

He is just a knowledgeable fella trying to be honest with you. Let me explain. How we move our limbs isn't hydraulic? You make your own valve clearance adjustments too right? So you are self adjusting the valves with your hydraulic arms.

 

5 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Wideband retrofit install I reckon the easiest way to tune 

In this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7X_b0qmk0d4

He tells us that LPG shop can't make it proper because they can't take the heavy and expensive devices with the car and make the adjustments on the road with real load conditions. (For carburetor engines of course)

So @D.FYLAKTOS way with a lambda gauge on board is the way to go.

 

5 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Knowing something is more dangerous than knowing nothing. 

You could try online retailers for example autodoc obviously it doesn't make financial sense for just a thermostat and thermo switch but it surely makes sense for a fair amount of spare parts and you will save the most buying on Monday 

Thanks!

[Thefeliciahacker]

1 hour ago, R_Blue said:

So you are self adjusting the valves with your hydraulic arms

xdxddxxdxdxdxdxdxdx

 

I say buy a used wideband sensor and a new display, almost all turbo guys have them find a wrecked aftermarket tuboed car and get these, actually that is the wisest way of tuning
like this for gauge and controller
https://www.ebay.com/itm/393438597767?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5b9ac49287:g:I-oAAOSwdeZg7AWG&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSU8qUIAeVPdz29zRlje3Lg%2FQuAb0hf68I8tu3FWlKwfMVKPi%2F2so67WeWd10v0Uy7D9dmUGmmW7CYWrqIUPIJb%2BIZFlHGgfIAWCLF3vgQTErt6EssQOh5SOsZCShBDB%2B%2BMJEvvA0DQUGt3e3oPWdMrlJ5WyniFnF%2F3qNdY5cH9H1wrFuhxUmeddmHDoKuycAQSXVyb4%2FHuixTh57UqjuzC8uOONsggl%2F1%2BorhWu%2BtzDf0NjGili1wywhsNaYHVaexxGW08lPece6u64%2FPX3o8NQHoh9f5kDd649IpNmz%2B%2FwZCgC%2FUGXNvWSHoQdryaYelVMfgN%2BXZ8ztYi7VVBxn8ns0NZ%2F0ne6xjrgFlNP%2FJLW74yOjNr%2BTqxbeJAlyxiAd2QDade8w3gNlbsJTvkD6vRCNjQ0cIaD0NiSVPQ52QbJTFCGcikLISnS01js99i0DXyHibJby8elW6sximN%2Be1%2BbiWEzxmJA7vXW4h0NvmjwceYuOVgLHaF0PRQJe32SnUlQYxdPaFGrDlg%2B7gW5yHs6GEX9faWvrd%2FOtwmZPUK52ZNURkkyOdAUbCHr8D06tB7jmy9MWQs2pbGks9ti5uYsNn9JLsqesFgN94luAmGy37ndUN0PIntelHlz6p4z7cYwzbQSB8yxXJQreoEXZPagyqVDChJ4xjMtf0yjGmz%2Fol%2FODhfXHsn7EP7s2lSSM%2FwwtqZmxWXwxV42GMFswrV%2B3QhY8GkdTs1bEeT1VXw5Mhv9X%2BTJposZWt3gA0fVRjyRApOjJ8TyrGO%2Bs7lvpDtVm5Ad6WRTA6YDVJiSEw%2B8XZ4W%2BVXSj3vycjCibPN0kC|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524
and like this for sensor

https://www.autodoc.gr/bosch/1149502
you could find cheaper alternatives though

Edited 3 August, 2021 by Thefeliciahacker