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Difficulty with Reverse Gear

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Alright, so my Fabia is a 1.2 12v BME coded car. Sometimes I can have difficulty putting it into reverse, like there's something blocking it and it sits partial in reverse (if you don't notice then it crunches like hell when you try to move), so I have to go to first and then into reverse. Is this something like the linkages or could it be something more sinister? It's fine for a decent amount of time and then it does it now and again. If I can catch it doing it then I'll make a video.

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  • It's sometimes a sign that the clutch isn't disengaging fully.   Can you select reverse easily when the engine isn't running?

  • Worth keeping in mind AnnoyingPentiums car is 15-16 years old and only has 50-60k miles on it. It wouldnt be too hard of a stretch to guess its got the original oil in it. Plenty of time for that oil

  • Lots of discussion about gearbox oil, all the views have their merits but good, bad, low or even a complete absence of gearbox oil will not make any difference to  reverse gear selection at standstill

Definately reset the linkages first, its an easy job to do and makes a difference.

This is the video I used when I did mine the other day.

Probably have to remove the battery and airbox like I had to, not difficult just a bit time consuming.

  • 2 months later...

The gearbox oil if that hasn't been changed in a long time well worth doing as well.

 

  • Author
51 minutes ago, Kelly_Heroes said:

The gearbox oil if that hasn't been changed in a long time well worth doing as well.

 

 

Good shout as well. It seems like a synchro issue of some sort because I can knock it into neutral, rev it, and then drop it into reverse quite the thing. So you could be onto something there. :)

13 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

 

Good shout as well. It seems like a synchro issue of some sort because I can knock it into neutral, rev it, and then drop it into reverse quite the thing. So you could be onto something there. :)

 

Unless the oil level is low then we're dealing with the placebo effect here, just top it up, the linkage reset is most likely to cure the issue.

I always change gearbox oil never had a gear box go in 15 years.

 

The times before that 3 or 4 gear boxes gone problems changing gears all weathers, cold weather, reverse and certain gears.

 

The linkage does need checking and looking at. But when I keep my cars long term gearbox oil always changed and I know it will last.

Do both, linkage first, that will probably help this issue most, and of course it is real and not placebo.

 

If the gearbox oil is low topping it up will also help. - ETA: see also PipH's advice.

 

Then after you have confirmed how much the linkage adjustment has helped if your car is 15 years old and still with the original gear oil change it and get further improvements and better present and future protection.  Buy very good quality oil as the extra cost isn't much, and it's normally a very easy job to do yourself, even I can do it, the better oil will make a difference and offer greater margins of protection which can be very useful on older vehicles.

 

You will get a real improvement, it was the first job I done on my wife's 6 year-old Mk3 at 38k-miles, she said she noticed the difference on gearchanges and we've been together far too long not to be honest about such things.

 

I've been told for years by mechanic-types that it makes no difference, and better oils are a waste of money, yet I have found both do.  Just because oil been in the ground for millions of years some think that's how long it lasts in the gearbox when actually it starts to deteriorate quite quickly, yes it can last many, many years but it's not doing its job as well as it should (but perhaps good enough for some).

 

I always drain the existing oil as hot as possible and leave to drain for as long as possible to get as much of the existing oil and crud out as possible and so that the new fresh oil is less diluted by the existing oil and crud residue left in the box.

 

Dropping the gearbox oil also gives the chance to see if there are any metals bits in it, and to compare with the fresh new oil.

 

Of course changing to fresh better quality gearbox oil won't repair worn parts but can help and protect more and better than very old very worn oil.

 

Edited by nta16

It's sometimes a sign that the clutch isn't disengaging fully.

 

Can you select reverse easily when the engine isn't running?

  • Author
24 minutes ago, PipH said:

It's sometimes a sign that the clutch isn't disengaging fully.

 

Can you select reverse easily when the engine isn't running?

 

Sometimes. It's an intermittent fault across the board and doesn't happen too often.

Edited by AnnoyingPentium

5 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

 

Sometimes. It's an intermittent fault across the board and doesn't happen too often.

Mine does the same still I wouldnt worry too much about it.

 

I've since changed the gear oil on mine and I reckon it was low, I got more in it than came out of it anyway. If you're changing the gear oil don't expect to get absolutely every drop out though there will always be some of the old oil in it somewhere.

 

Linkages made the biggest difference on my car, gear oil made some difference on its own too. Pretty sure VW gearboxes are a "lifetime fill" so they dont have a specified interval. Won't do any harm changing it though and its peace of mind.

Just my 2cents.

  • Author
13 minutes ago, DieselMonte said:

Mine does the same still I wouldn't worry too much about it.

 

I've since changed the gear oil on mine and I reckon it was low, I got more in it than came out of it anyway. If you're changing the gear oil don't expect to get absolutely every drop out though there will always be some of the old oil in it somewhere.

 

Linkages made the biggest difference on my car, gear oil made some difference on its own too. Pretty sure VW gearboxes are a "lifetime fill" so they don't have a specified interval. Won't do any harm changing it though and its peace of mind.

Just my 2cents.

 

Thanks DM, it's not a constant issue, just there now and again. I'll adjust the linkages first and work from there. :)

Reverse usually isnt synchronised anyways so if it crunches sometimes going into reverse, but still goes in I wouldnt be too concerned either.

If by across the board you mean the forward gears and reverse gear then it could be the linkage adjustment, clutch, low oil level, old worn oil or any contributing combination or permutation.

 

So it'd make sense to start with the easiest and least expensive fix first, I don't know how easy those fantastic plastic (German engineering quality?) cable adjusters are to get at and it depends if you have or can get for free spare gearbox oil for topping up as to which is most convenient as the first step.

 

I've changed "filled for life" oil before and it was worth the effort.

 

There is of course driver error to take into consideration, perhaps rushing, impatient especially on reverse and 1st perhaps when it's cold, or different footwear perhaps, one day carpet slippers and the next deep tread work boots.

 

ETA: Having the driver's seat one notch back from usual can also make a difference.

 

 

Edited by nta16
ETA:

2 hours ago, DieselMonte said:

 Pretty sure VW gearboxes are a "lifetime fill" so they dont have a specified interval. Won't do any harm changing it though and its peace of mind.

 

 

My Fabia doesn't even have a drain plug on the gearbox. I had to suck the oil out of the fill plug with a pump when I changed it. I didn't fancy pulling a driveshaft out just to get the oil out.

They are lifetime fill because gearbox oil does not suffer from thermal cycling, condensation and contamination like engine oil does. Changing it of course does no harm but is really a waste of time and money, just topping up is all that's needed.

All oil breaks down over time.

The 3 or 4 gearboxes that went on me over 15 years ago the oil was thick black stinking.

 

I still change gearbox oil never had a problem after. Oil no matter how clean something is inside it degrades over time hot and cold weather. The warm and cold engine makes a difference. The sake of spending £15 to £20 on gear box oil saves having to buy anther gearbox or have it fixed which costs far more. I always change fluids, oils no matter what when keeping the car long term nothing lasts a life time.

1 minute ago, TMB said:

All oil breaks down over time.

Yes it does I've seen 3 or 4 gearboxes wrecked because the idea gearbox oil stays clean. It degrades over time and the company wont replace your gearbox with lifetime gearbox oil.

Worth keeping in mind AnnoyingPentiums car is 15-16 years old and only has 50-60k miles on it. It wouldnt be too hard of a stretch to guess its got the original oil in it. Plenty of time for that oil to degrade, or maybe get low what have you.

If you're going to the hassle of topping it off its not much more to just empty the thing and refill from scratch.

  • Author

Car turned 15 in November, sitting at 58k miles (almost). It was on original discs on the front when I got it so I wouldn't be surprised if it was the original oil. :)

Lots of discussion about gearbox oil, all the views have their merits but good, bad, low or even a complete absence of gearbox oil will not make any difference to  reverse gear selection at standstill with or without synchromesh or to clutch drag.

 

Still he should be thankfull not to have been advised to charge or replace the battery 😆

 

Linkage adjustment first priority 👍

  • Author
Just now, J.R. said:

Linkage adjustment first priority 👍

 

Of course. Waiting until the warmer weather, however. :)

My MK1 Octavia went to the scrayard at 325000 miles and 18 years with the original gearbox oil, it gave a little bearing noise when being abused towing stupidly overloaded trailers up zig-zaggy alpine passes but was silent again the next day.

 

I will probably change my transmission oil when I finally install a 4 poster ramp at my new place, it can only be beneficial and we are all enthusiasts but should not for get that the vast majority of manual gearbox vehicles will never have their transmission oils replaced in their lifetimes especaiily those serviced by the dealers or independants.

The lifetime gearbox fill is not even oil, it is a fully synthetic splash lubrication fluid with a comprehensive additive pack containing detergents, anti-oxidation, anti-foam,  anti-shear agents among numerous other components, it is carefully formulated and comprehensively engineered and tested to provide reliable lubrication for the lifetime of the gearbox.

What I'm telling you is professional scientific fact, not amateur guesswork or opinion.

It turns black because there are sulphur compounds in the additive pack which become sulphides and it is these that smell and make it look dirty.

It's still clean of course because it's sealed and dirt cannot get in.

These are facts, like I said it doesn't hurt to change the oil but it's totally unnecessary.

fully synthetic gearbox oil is a splash lubrication fluid with a comprehensive additive pack containing detergents, anti-oxidation, anti-foam, anti-shear agents among other components, it may well last the life of the gearbox* but it's not working as well in later life as earlier and very early life.

 

We won't argue about what a fully synthetic oil actually is unless an oil engineer sees this and can put it into laymen terms for all.

 

Whilst it doesn't suffer as much as engine oil it does have thermal cycles, there can be condensation and there will be some containments to the oil with time and use.

 

I've got a 1980s Ford Type 9 gearbox it was Ford's first 5-speed RWD box and without a drain plug, whether that was meant as filled for life I don't know, but what is that life, the gearbox I have could be near enough 30 years old now and it's been in at least two vehicles.  The oil that Ford specified for it was 'special' at the time but the specification widened to encompass other oils as the years passed as they used different oils in their gearboxes.  The oil that the specialist professional gearbox rebuilders insist on is the Ford spec oil (despite that spec being on loads of oils) or a cheap Comma oil because it's the right spec and colour (dye).

 

Luckily for me my Type 9 gearbox leaks, everywhere but possibly not the usual place, so it is a self flushing oil system as it needs regular topping up.  As it doesn't have a drain plug, it's a really pain to syphon out as I can't a hose or tubing low enough to get all the oil out, some fit a drain plug, I never got a roundtuit, so I rely on staged renewal from what I can syphon out at changes and what leaks out.

 

As Dave Allen (almost) used to say - let your oil belief go with you

 

* Especially if it's the cause of the death of the box.  🤣

 

Edited by nta16
missed out the word 'not'

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