Hoping for some advice.  I've recently had my 2.0 TFSI engine rebuild after a timing chain failure, I've had a stage 2 and various mods done so didn't pursue the Skoda compensation route.  I had many issues getting this sorted because the first garage sat on the issue for 3 weeks before fobbing it off and then the second garage almost gave up when they saw the damage that had been done.  I managed to get them to remove the block and send to a specialist for rebuild that included a long list of extras costing me an arm and a leg!  Eventually I got everything back together but I still have a rattle on cold start.  Its very consistent, literally less than an second of rattle then a slight after rattle while I pull away.  I've also noticed it does sound a lot noisier on idle than before rebuild but I'm only 150 miles into the 600 mile burn in so assume it will take a while for everything to settle down.  The thing I'm worried about is that everything points towards this sound being a faulty tensioner and I thought this should have been replaced during the rebuild?  As part of the rebuild I also had a new DMF and RKS twin friction clutch fitted and I also have an age old EVAP purge valve issue...  This car is now a part of my soul  so any advice is appreciated.

Rattle.m4a

What year or what engine? Bwa or ccza? 

Hi and thanks for reply, its 2011 and it CCZA.  Its now done 350 miles and I still get the brief (less than a second) chatter on cold start but apart from that its running A1, no more oil burn on over run and it really is smooth as silk.  The new clutch is still juddering in 1st but that's getting better, the idle noise is loud and it sounds like my old Mk2 Fiesta.

I am moderately convinced that the initial noise is because you haven't got oil pressure at start-up.

 

Two things are likely to make that worse - wrong oil filter - correct ones will have the appropriate valving, and will probably have the name of someone known for making oil filters on the side, whether that be Bosch, Mahle, etc, etc, or someone else, or wrong oil.

 

You should have a receipt which states what oil was used, and it isn't just brand and it isn't just viscosity: The oil should meet the appropriate VAG specification, and just because it says '5w-30' on it isn't necessarily enough.

 

Neither of those should go wrong, but if the builder was careless, they could have done.

Hi, thanks very much for the reply, just thought I would give an update...  I've checked the oil filter and its got UFI and made in China written on top.  The manufacture date is after my last service so that's a good sign, with regards to oil I'm not 100%, they are a trustworthy garage but when they handed me keys it was keys in one hand and can of Stella in the other, it was Friday afternoon 🙂, the receipt states 5w-30 long life.  I had a coolant flange failure today and lost all my coolant, assuming the return spout was knocked and it cracked off.  That's almost sorted but highlighted a new issue, the coolant tank is full of sludge and the new flange is at a different angle to original so pipe is not aligned.  My plan is to take the car to a VAG specialist (Sheffield based recommendations welcome) have a full service with coolant flush and full oil/filter change, get the EVAP purge valve and charcoal tank swapped and see what they think after that.

Thought I would update on progress...  I eventually managed to convince the engine rebuilders to have a look at the car, it went down on the back of an RAC wagon and spent a few days in Kent.  They found the original mechanics that put it all back together had reused gaskets and not replaced any of the oil pressure sensors etc.  This has all been sorted but I'm still getting chatter once the engine is warm and a slight uniform chatter on cold start, also the odd time when it will take 3-4 false starts to actually start.  I'm wondering if the injectors could cause this?  I've since taken to another VAG place and they ran a diagnostic but it comes back with only the minor light fault I have from some dodgy bulbs.  The car itself is running great, smooth and plenty of power but just a very slight hesitation occasionally.  Anybody know of anywhere in Sheffield or Chesterfield they would recommend?  The VAG place I tried wouldn't even consider changing the injectors without a fault code as they said they usually either work or don't work at all.

I've seen injector faults flooding engine on here without codes.  Especially if leak down problem.  But not sure that is aligned with your problem. What a mare, I have the same year car for 5 years and I did all the maintenance apart from a timing chain and tensioner change when I bought it. But they are a bugg3r to work with when not looked after or being difficult.

 

An engine builder who reuses gaskets and ancillary consumables is a worry. That makes me concerned. Maybe an oil pump problem? I'm guessing now. Have they checked pressure?  What is the relationship to the place in Kent it was sent to?

So think I got this sorted, manage to get the rebuilder to take a look and they agreed to help fix for zero labour.  They claim the original installer didn't install an oil valve correctly and this prevented correct oil pressure which then broke the inlet and exhaust cam.  They replaced for £780 parts and all the issues have gone, was starting and running lovely for 300 miles.  Today I think a hose has popped off the Turbo as I've lost all the top end power and its hissing like a bus when I try to accelerate.  I put a full post on the engine failures thread explaining the full story.  In short do your research and get a reputable company to do the rebuild as one job, not 2 garages who blame each other.