On 15/11/2021 at 12:09, camelspyyder said:

My rapid key takes thinner CR 2025, not the 2032?

 

OK, bifocal error on my part - I just had a careful look at the batteries in the four Skoda keys we have...

 

The original Panasonic batteries in three of the keys are all CR2025,  NOT  CR2032. - original post corrected now 30-11-2021

 

The fourth one is/was the CR2032 I shoved in the other week - it does "fit" but doesn't locate properly until the cover is pressed on, whereas the CR2025 locates and stays in place without the cover on. I have put a CR2025 in there now as there are plenty of things at home which use the CR2032.

 

CR2032 would do in emergency, if you were "locked out" and could be bothered to uncover the key hole in the drivers door.

 

Edited 30 November, 20214 yr by johnh510
because I can

14 minutes ago, johnh510 said:

 

OK, bifocal error on my part - I just had a careful look at the batteries in the four Skoda keys we have...

 

The original Panasonic batteries in three of the keys are all CR2025,  NOT  CR2032.

 

The fourth one is/was the CR2032 I shoved in the other week - it does "fit" but doesn't locate properly until the cover is pressed on, whereas the CR2025 locates and stays in place without the cover on. I have put a CR2025 in there now as there are plenty of things at home which use the CR2032.

 

CR2032 would do in emergency, if you were "locked out" and could be bothered to uncover the key hole in the drivers door.

 

My apologies for any confusion - could a moderator amend my 12th November 2021 posting: in both places identified with a "*", please.

This may help to avoid confusion, taken off Google.....the batteries appear to be the same 3v 'power', its the sizing that is different .

 

"

Can you use a 2032 battery in place of a 2025?

 

 

Intro: 2032 and 2025 are literally the dimensions of the battery. A 2032 is 20mm in diameter, 3.2mm thick, and a 2025 is slightly thinner, at 2.5mm thick. They usually both have the same voltage (3V), and assuming they fit in the case, they are interchangeable.

As far as I remember you have to force it shut on a 2032. 

Given the price of replacement keys these days, I don't want to risk any damage to them.

28 minutes ago, camelspyyder said:

As far as I remember you have to force it shut on a 2032.

Yes, it's a bit of a squeeze... and fair comment about the price of the keys.

1 hour ago, johnh510 said:

Yes, it's a bit of a squeeze... and fair comment about the price of the keys.

……and I would think we are possibly talking earlier versus later car models as my 2011 Octavia takes the 2032

John, this is the type of error or typo I usually make, good to know I'm not alone.  I've given up worrying too much if I make a mistake now as I've seen so many errors and misinformation the t'net, any information needs to be checked and cross referenced.

 

I never knew the numbers of the battery was the physical size but those button batteries have other names too.  I guess (no more than that) that 3.2mm thick battery can probably hold more juice than a 2.5mm so last longer but I'd not try to fit a 3.2mm into a 2.5mm holder - and just to avoid the bother to uncover the key hole in the drivers door, you lazy devil. 🤣

 

You made a mistake, stop digging, 🤣 pay £6 for a year as 'FREEDOM Lite' and you can go back and edit your posts and do corrections and leave the reasoning if you want.  If it's not a spelling or grammar mistake I tend to just cross through the bit that's wrong rather than just delete it.

 

21 hours ago, nta16 said:

pay £6 for a year as 'FREEDOM Lite' and you can go back and edit your posts

 

done it, thanks

2 hours ago, johnh510 said:

done it, thanks

Well done.  Do me a favour I can't keep up with all my errors could you edit some of mine too.  😁

 

On 25/11/2021 at 19:35, nta16 said:

Stand next to the car with the remote keyfob (do one at a time to save confusion) don't be near a radio/telecommication mast or have your mobile with you just in case and be wearing tinfoil underpants.

 

• Press any button on the remote control
• then within 1 minute use the key blade to unlock the door
• that's it - done, finished
• don't forget to do the other keyfob

Did you also try turning off the interior alarm at that button to see if that worked/helped?

 

……and yes, I have turned the interior alarm button in case an errant spider or other insect is playing games with me! I can’t say it has eradicated the problem though.

28 minutes ago, mydadscar said:

……and yes, I have turned the interior alarm button in case an errant spider or other insect is playing games with me! I can’t say it has eradicated the problem though.

Ah, well, nothing lost always worth trying the free and easy.  Sorry I know nothing of alarms as new as 10 years.  You might need a proper scan tool to see if there are faults (or adjust sensor(s) sensitivity?).

 

20 hours ago, nta16 said:

Ah, well, nothing lost always worth trying the free and easy.  Sorry I know nothing of alarms as new as 10 years.  You might need a proper scan tool to see if there are faults (or adjust sensor(s) sensitivity?).

 

As an update to this ‘alarm’ problem…..I’ve noticed when locking the car that the door alarm light flashes quickly then settles into a steady pulse or…flashes quickly and then stays on for maybe 30+ seconds then starts its steady pulse. Either of these will work okay and not sound the alarm off but not always.

I'd forgotten about this (as you had forgotten to look at the Owner's Manual again(?)), from that book -

"If the indicator light first of all flashes fast for about 2 seconds, afterwards lights up for about 30 seconds and then flashes slowly, there is a fault in the system of the central locking or the interior monitor => page 43"

 

Page 42

"When is the alarm triggered?  .  .  .  A drop in voltage of the on-board power supply"

 

I know you put the car battery is only 12 months and I put it's only a store so can be depleted at any time but did you check the car battery or better still give it a long low slow recharge, a short high quick recharge isn't as good as often it won't go as deep and don't use a booster charger.

 

I know people find it hard to believe how important the battery charge (and condition) is for modern cars and that even if the car starts and lights seem bright enough the battery could still be too low for the car's computers and their invasive programs can throw up all sorts of unusual wobblies and left too long the computers will make you suffer for the neglect.

 

Again it's simple almost cost free and only takes a bit of time and patience to properly recharge the car battery, if it's too low just driving the car won't do it.

 

See the 4th (and 3rd) from last posts in this thread, good luck. -

 

Edited 5 December, 20214 yr by nta16