Anyone know a good place to source good quality 17mm wheel bolts for my Yeti please, preferably original Skoda branded?

 

I've rounded off one of my wheel bolts, the 17mm socket had cracked without me knowing, serves me right for using a cheap socket I suppose!!

I hope to get it off with one of those bolt removing sockets that remove rounded bolts, but I'll need to replace there bolt and may as well get a set of five so I can do away with the locking bolts as well.

 

 

https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/collections/skoda-exterior-accessories/products/skoda-wheel-bolt-wht001812

https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/oen/wht001812?bing=1&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&msclkid=724583f05e8919f2f5f6e259a1b54b1f

40 minutes ago, Dale_Stevens said:

as well get a set of five so I can do away with the locking bolts as well.

Being pragmatic, that solution may come back to bite you.

Thanks Urrell, quite a price difference between those two sites. On the second link for buycarparts.co.uk they are so much cheaper, though I haven't looked at postage prices. Are all of those bolts in the link the same kind of quality, or are any of them OEM?

 

Also now need to get a good quality 17mm socket, buy cheap buy twice as I have just found out! Think I'll get a better wheel brace too.

Edited 3 December, 20214 yr by Dale_Stevens

I'm sure it was only £2.71 + vat (it was a couple of years ago) from my Skoda dealer when I managed to loose one down a stank whilst changing a wheel, plus it was in stock so no waiting.

15 minutes ago, TruckbusUK said:

I'm sure it was only £2.71 + vat (it was a couple of years ago) from my Skoda dealer when I managed to loose one down a stank whilst changing a wheel, plus it was in stock so no waiting.

 

That's cheaper than I expected from a dealer, I'll give mine a call tomorrow, thanks.

Had to take the Yeti to a garage to get the bolt removed, they used a breaker bar, good quality socket that they whacked on with a nylon mallet, and cracked it off. I doubt that I had put it on too tight as I use a torque wrench at 120Nm. I have a couple of short journeys that I need to make, so I'm checking the remaining 4 bolts on that wheel every few miles, hope to get a replacement bolt soon.

 

 

 

Edited 3 December, 20214 yr by Dale_Stevens

Check that (damage to) your locking wheel nut key isn't the problem, if you plan to retain them.

5 minutes ago, Wino said:

Check that (damage to) your locking wheel nut key isn't the problem, if you plan to retain them.

 

This is a normal wheel bolt, not the locking bolt. Thinking of getting rid of the locking wheel bolts to be honest.

Ah, sorry, ignore me! 

16 minutes ago, Dale_Stevens said:

This is a normal wheel bolt, not the locking bolt. Thinking of getting rid of the locking wheel bolts to be honest.

First thing too buy is a decent 17mm socket and a tool to attach it to that keeps it at the correct angle so it does not wrench off.
I cannot understand how a wheel bolt could be rounded off unless the tool is not kept parallel to the bolt with a long extension.

The way the material is laying on that bolt looks like the damage was done when tightening.

 

Assuming that you would have noticed that damage when putting the socket in place you didn't by any chance crack the socket by accidentally tightening before realising?

 

I completely understand if you are offended by the above question, I certainly would be, it's not a mistake I have ever made but give me time....................... 🤣

13 minutes ago, J.R. said:

The way the material is laying on that bolt looks like the damage was done when tightening.

 

Assuming that you would have noticed that damage when putting the socket in place you didn't by any chance crack the socket by accidentally tightening before realising?

 

I completely understand if you are offended by the above question, I certainly would be, it's not a mistake I have ever made but give me time....................... 🤣

Ha, no, I didn’t tighten it by mistake. 
 

one thing I noticed was a few other bolts were quite tight. When I last put them on I was using a brand new digital torque wrench. Despite setting it correctly I’m wondering if it’s not calibrated correctly and has over tightened them?  I’ll have to compare it to my standard torque wrench. 
 

Yes, I absolutely need a good quality 6 sides socket and wrench/brace, the socket that cracked was a 12 point socket. I’m off to get a Halfords Advanced/Professional socket tomorrow. They do decent looking 18” Advanced breaker bar that I’ll take a look at. 

Edited 3 December, 20214 yr by Dale_Stevens

ETA: two posts whilst I was typing this one (normal for me)

 

Is 120Nm as per book, and is your torque wrench reasonably accurate.

 

I recent bought a Halfords Advanced 17mm deep 6-sided socket (£6.50) as they'd sent me (another) £5 voucher (just for looking at their online site AFAIK) the deep socket gives me the clearance to use (my very simple and old Draper beam) torque bar.

 

If you get a wheel brace best is to have the single handled type that extends and only ever tighten using it contracted, leaving the extended for loosening only.

 

Something to bear in mind with the locking wheel nuts according to some of the Owner's Manuals is to loosen them first and tighten them last, I put them opposite the tyre valve to remind me.  Also as well as the low quality wheel bolts on German vehicles I also personally recommend using (two) screw-in wheel hanger fitting/removal alignment guide pins when removing and refitting each road wheel.  Normally only one is used but two is better. One or two of these could help prevent getting a back pain from the bloody silly VW use of wheel bolts instead of fixed wheel studs (guess how I know this).  German engineering quality is exaggerated, especially in more recent years, mind the bolts they use are probably sourced further east.

 

Edited 7 December, 20214 yr by nta16
ETA: according to some of the Owner's Manuals

TBH, I would have guessed that that damage was done with a rattle gun with its torque setting set at max and a non impact spec socket that was already worn, really surprised you can do that damage with a hand tool and not notice. 😲

Edited 3 December, 20214 yr by TruckbusUK
clarification

27 minutes ago, nta16 said:

  German engineering quality is exaggerated, especially in more recent years, mind the bolts they use are probably sourced further east.

 

 

Sorry nonsense, regardless of where the bolts are manufactured and by whom, if they are to the design and purchase spec, and they should be or the QA dept and the goods-in testing departments should be fired if not then its really unlikely to make a jot of a difference where they are manufactured or sourced from.

Edited 3 December, 20214 yr by TruckbusUK

If they weren't to German engineering quality specification then they wouldn't be on the car - unless it was a replacement outside of the German engineering specification or has been abused beyond expected, er, expectations, standards.

 

Have a look under the bonnet of German cars (which you personally can do and confirm) for all the  plastic bits that were once made of metal.  Cars whilst costing tens of thousands of Euros have some part costed in cents or decimal place(s)? of.

 

I've always been suspect of the (stupid) wheel bolts, their holes in the bolt head have me wondering.  I'd be interested to see the quality testing of items such as wheel bolts and wonder if it might be suppliers responsibility with perhaps the odd random test somewhere.

 

All vehicles have faults, some more than others, as there are always compromises to be made for many reasons, I've had mainly British vehicles so know all about those with more faults.

 

Edited 3 December, 20214 yr by nta16

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

 

Something to bear in mind with the locking wheel nuts is you loosen them first and tighten them last,

 

 

What reason do you have for advocating that?

 

I hope it's not just "I was told.............", if so then it's time to break the cycle.

2 hours ago, TruckbusUK said:

TBH, I would have guessed that that damage was done with a rattle gun with its torque setting set at max and a non impact spec socket that was already worn, really surprised you can do that damage with a hand tool and not notice. 😲

 

I'm the only person who has touched the wheel bolts whilst I've owned the car, and I've only ever fitted/removed them using hand tools.

12 hours ago, Urrell said:

https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/oen/wht001812?bing=1&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&msclkid=724583f05e8919f2f5f6e259a1b54b1f

 

Can anyone recommend which bolts in that link would be best please? They all seem to be the same part number, some are different manufacturers whilst a few of them are Febi Bilstein. I'll also be giving my Skoda dealer a call tomorrow and see how much they charge.

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

 

What reason do you have for advocating that?

 

I hope it's not just "I was told.............", if so then it's time to break the cycle.

TBH it's something I've read a few times on tyre selling sites but it could be part of the new tyres don't always go to the front sort of thing, I stick with it more as a system to remind me of order, I assumed it was something to do with the head pattern but perhaps the locking-bolts might even be stronger, I'm happy to learn from you and others.

 

Also - I've got a feeling you (or was it Ken, purple circle anyway) put this was so - I'll check the handbook and if it's not in there I'll delete my references to it anyway as I always go by the book.

 

Edited 4 December, 20214 yr by nta16

Sorry no idea about the quality of the wheel bolts but - "bilstein group Engineering . . . parts for the product brands febi, SWAG and Blue Print" bit like WD-40 Company is GT85 and 3-in-One.

 

9 hours ago, nta16 said:

or was it Ken, purple circle anyway

Well, this is my first post in this thread, and even even it's just to say that it wasn't me earlier.

Ended up buying a bolt from my Skoda dealer for £6ish, as I wanted to be back to having five bolts on the wheel ASAP. Picked up a 17mm 6 x sided socket from Halfords too. Wont be using 12 point sockets on the wheels again. I now need to see if the new digital torque wrench reads the same as my normal wrench, to see if it's over tightening the bolts. Im quite sure the correct setting is 120Nm?

 

 

Edited 4 December, 20214 yr by Dale_Stevens