Hello Everyone, 

 

I think I may have a problem with the PAS sensor, for 2 years in a row, my PAS just stop working during winter. So I figure it's the PAS sensor as it's a well known issue. 

I've tried to remove the old one just to see the condition but without any luck. I did managed to unbolt the bottom bolt but I really don't see how can I access to top one ? 

 

Can someone help me regarding that ? LHD car, I don't know if it's any harder on it ?

 

Regards 

PAS not working in the winter is probably more likely to be related to low battery voltage, measure yours on a cold day.

I tought about that at first bu the battery is brand new and fully charged. 

As Sepulchrave says, it's more likely to be the battery. Measure it, and you can rule it out or fix your fault without throwing money or sensors at the car.

 

Edit - just double check the battery. Secondly, check the car with a code reader to get some idea of further faults. I will mention that the PAS tends to start a screaming match if your ground connector between the wing and the battery isn't making good connection.

Edited 16 December, 20214 yr by AnnoyingPentium
Additional Information.

I will re check the battery then. 
I don't have any code reader, I can buy any OBD2 one ? 

 

My main question about the disassembly was mainly to try cleaning the sensor first before changing, apparently it can get a little bit of humidity in it, causing problems.

7 minutes ago, Folowiz said:

I don't have any code reader, I can buy any OBD2 one ? 

 

Yes. Such a thing can be bought from a local car parts store or from online for a reasonable price.

 

As to the sensor, I'll leave that to someone with more knowledge and/or experience to provide assistance in that field.

Check to see if battery light comes on when you switch on the ignition. (Key position before starter turns).

Agreed; in fact the battery light should be the first check for any "electrical issue" on a 1994 or later VAG car (if only because it's my favourite speed (fast) and price (free to driver)).

No battery light when switching the ignition.
Only PAS, which disappears once fully started. 

Check the battery right now, and seems OK, 12,53 Volts. 

1 minute ago, Folowiz said:

No battery light when switching the ignition.

Ok, you almost certainly have a problem with broken or disconnected alternator control wires. You need to get this fixed, and then the PAS issue may "go away" by itself.

5 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

Ok, you almost certainly have a problem with broken or disconnected alternator control wires. You need to get this fixed, and then the PAS issue may "go away" by itself.

 

Thank you for your response.
I don't know anything on the electrical part sadly. But if it's the problem, I should have some non charging-battery issue ? 

 

EDIT: how can I test that control wire ? 

Edited 16 December, 20214 yr by Folowiz

5 minutes ago, Folowiz said:

how can I test that control wire ?

That's what you did by observing the presence/absence of the battery light at ignition on.

 

Please share some info about your car such as the year it was built, and the engine type.

 

Here's a thread with some pictures of mine of the connector pair where most problems with the alternator wiring occur: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/287467-load-signal-alternator-cable/

 

 

8 minutes ago, Wino said:

That's what you did by observing the presence/absence of the battery light at ignition on.

 

Please share some info about your car such as the year it was built, and the engine type.

 

Here's a thread with some pictures of mine of the connector pair where most problems with the alternator wiring occur: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/287467-load-signal-alternator-cable/

 

 

OK so if the Battery Light never appears on the dash at any moment, there is a problem of alternator control wire ? 

 

Built in 2000, code ATD I believe (1.9 TDI 100)

16 minutes ago, Folowiz said:

OK so if the Battery Light never appears on the dash at any moment, there is a problem of alternator control wire ? 

Yes, more common on diesel-engined Fabias due to greater vibration levels, I think, and obviously more common the older the car is due to 'wear and tear'.

 

The alternator will tend to self-start above a certain rpm level, but on low-revving diesels this can take some time and lead to charge loss from the battery in the interim. And systems that are 'current hungry' noticing that the system voltage is below what it ought to be and complaining.

 

Measure the voltage across the battery immediately after starting the engine, and then again after a 'blip' on the accelerator pedal that takes the revs above, say 2000rpm.  You may see this occurring.  Before alternator 'boots up', you'll see 12V approx; after it starts it should be around 14.2 +/- 0.2 (with some temperature variability).

 

 

 

Edited 16 December, 20214 yr by Wino