Hi to all, can any one confirm that the wiring loom on the base 60 is the same as top end 60 or 80 when it comes to add on accessories?

Like say installing rear USB c sockets in rear of vehicle if not already fitted and is the loom plug and play bar adding the odd fuse or relay into the circuit? And is it possible to retro fit rear hatch automated open and closing? Would be good to here from the more familiar! Thanks for any positive input.

AndySMS

I would think that's very doubtful. VW group tend to fit looms with only the required functionality per vehicle.  Hope I'm wrong for your sake.

First thing I would check is in the passenger fusebox.  If there are a pair of fuse contacts in each of the empty fuse locations then the wiring is probably there to a certain extent. Might be missing the final small loom to each actual item tho.

Fuse 37 is the electric bootlid

Fuse 48 is the rear USB module.  Also relay J807

But as Wino has said its unlikely to be there if you never specified it during ordering. 

I have to this day never seen a VAG (Skoda/VW/etc.) that had wiring prepared for features that the car wasn´t ordered with.

 

That being said, most features can be retrofitted. I don´t know if you have such services available in the UK, but here in Denmark

we have multiple companies making a living of doing "like factory" retrofits on VAG cars. In general, it´s cheaper to order the features

you want from the factory than having them retrofitted.

Edited 30 December, 20214 yr by GaSelle

18 hours ago, TigerTony said:

First thing I would check is in the passenger fusebox.  If there are a pair of fuse contacts in each of the empty fuse locations then the wiring is probably there to a certain extent. Might be missing the final small loom to each actual item tho.

Fuse 37 is the electric bootlid

Fuse 48 is the rear USB module.  Also relay J807

But as Wino has said its unlikely to be there if you never specified it during ordering. 

Thanks Tony

Good logical thought process. Thanks for your help

 

I looked into the cost of retrofitting the electric boot door to a VW Caravelle. Suffice to say that by the time I'd added up the cost of the parts (there's various sensors, switches, looms, different lock mechanism etc.), it was well over £1500, and that's before taking into account the time to dismantle a lot of the back of the vehicle to fit things there, plus the fusebox wiring and control module. So I didn't bother in the end. There are aftermarket boot openers which are used when converting cars to take wheelchairs that whilst looking a bit ugly do the job far more cheaply. But in the end I settled for just opening it manually...

Thanks for the Intel, appreciated and glad to know I'm not the only one going through the same thought process.

Thanks.

 

On 30/12/2021 at 22:07, GaSelle said:

I have to this day never seen a VAG (Skoda/VW/etc.) that had wiring prepared for features that the car wasn´t ordered with.

 

That being said, most features can be retrofitted. I don´t know if you have such services available in the UK, but here in Denmark

we have multiple companies making a living of doing "like factory" retrofits on VAG cars. In general, it´s cheaper to order the features

you want from the factory than having them retrofitted.

Thanks

If you want an idea as to what could be involved regarding the electric tailgate one company does produce a kit for the Karoq.

 

https://www.hautopart.com/blog-skoda-karoq-electric-tailgate-lift-install-manual/

 

tom 

Edited 1 January, 20224 yr by Sanqhar

Thank you for the info

 

One of the shortcomings of the Enyaq (for me) is a shortage of USB sockets; I've cobbled up an extension from the boot socket to the back seats (why the boot gets one and not the rear passengers is beyond me) but I've been frustrated by my messy wires for the front dashcam. I presume I can go back to the fuse box and fit an outlet to a spare point if nothing else. But is there a better way to take a tiny bit of power from the rear view mirror panel? 

I'm sure you can tap into the 12V supply to the rear view mirror and stick a 5V voltage regulator in the roof lining. This is how I powered a mirror with an LCD screen in it (for reversing camera) on one of my Subarus. My version didn't have an autodimming mirror, but it was an option so the wiring was there (Subaru unlike VW Group tended to fit all the looms but just tape them up if not used).

Thinking about it, that unit behind the mirror on the Enyaq has a camera, humidity sensor, rain sensor, sunlight sensor and probably other things like microphones in it - so there's probably a reasonable 12V supply up there. Just a matter of taking things off and finding it, then tapping into it. Or the supply to the makeup lights in the sunshades is another possibility.

 

Or yeah, just run a cable up the A-pillar from the fusebox like many people do.

On 01/01/2022 at 10:05, Sanqhar said:

If you want an idea as to what could be involved regarding the electric tailgate one company does produce a kit for the Karoq.

 

https://www.hautopart.com/blog-skoda-karoq-electric-tailgate-lift-install-manual/

 

tom 

Thank you

 

14 hours ago, FrankBear said:

One of the shortcomings of the Enyaq (for me) is a shortage of USB sockets 

Just out of interest, how did you manage 10 years ago when cars didn’t have any USB sockets.  What are you doing now that needs multiple sockets that you could live without a decade ago.

 

Good point - the main issue is the dashcam, which I didn't have ten years ago. If my company didn't insist on that, I could cope. 

I could work around with USB power banks etc, but a car like an Enyaq should make modern  family life easy. 

 

On 27/01/2022 at 16:32, RichR said:

I'm sure you can tap into the 12V supply to the rear view mirror and stick a 5V voltage regulator in the roof lining. This is how I powered a mirror with an LCD screen in it (for reversing camera) on one of my Subarus. My version didn't have an autodimming mirror, but it was an option so the wiring was there (Subaru unlike VW Group tended to fit all the looms but just tape them up if not used).

Thinking about it, that unit behind the mirror on the Enyaq has a camera, humidity sensor, rain sensor, sunlight sensor and probably other things like microphones in it - so there's probably a reasonable 12V supply up there. Just a matter of taking things off and finding it, then tapping into it. Or the supply to the makeup lights in the sunshades is another possibility.

 

Or yeah, just run a cable up the A-pillar from the fusebox like many people do.

 Thanks for the idea - I'll have a look and probe about gently up there with a multimeter. The A pillar route is more of a faff but it's good to know I have a plan B. 

On 02/02/2022 at 15:35, FrankBear said:

 Thanks for the idea - I'll have a look and probe about gently up there with a multimeter. The A pillar route is more of a faff but it's good to know I have a plan B. 

 

dead easy to fit a dash cam via the fuse box, if you look on youtube for the ID3 dashcam it is the same on the enyaq

 

On 05/02/2022 at 09:44, domhnall said:

 

dead easy to fit a dash cam via the fuse box, if you look on youtube for the ID3 dashcam it is the same on the enyaq

 

Thank you for telling me there was a YT video; I wouldn't have thought of searching for other VW group products. The ID3 fusebox/glovebox looks pretty much identical to the Enyaq. I'll make sure I follow the advice to route the USB lead around the curtain airbag. 

On 07/02/2022 at 11:43, FrankBear said:

Thank you for telling me there was a YT video; I wouldn't have thought of searching for other VW group products. The ID3 fusebox/glovebox looks pretty much identical to the Enyaq. I'll make sure I follow the advice to route the USB lead around the curtain airbag. 

 

yup, ID3, ID4, ID5, ENyaq, Q4 etron, Cupra Born are fundamentally  all the same car underneath

On 13/02/2022 at 09:49, domhnall said:

 

yup, ID3, ID4, ID5, Enyaq, Q4 etron, Cupra Born are fundamentally  all the same car underneath

 

Thanks, that's my Enyaq upgraded according to this video, it feels so good not to have wires trailing through the passenger footwell and glovebox. 

 

The instructions were pretty much spot on, except for the following:

 

Rather than piggy-backing onto the rear window heater, I used a spare fuse socket just above it; I checked first that the power was linked to the ignition with a multi meter.

I did use a piggyback fuse for the + outlet as the wiring loom is really thin and I'm scared of breaking it. 

I drilled a 10mm hole in the plastic panel hidden behind the glovebox so I could get the Torx driver properly aligned - I didn't want to drop that bolt into the dashboard internals while getting a negative earth. 

I made sure the USB lead did not obstruct the side curtain airbag, this also means it comes out of the headliner at the soft join at the top of the A-pillar right in the corner of the windscreen. 

I didn't bother with tucking the cable into the top of the screen, I passed it through the visor hinges, but I can always go back and fix that later if it becomes trouble/annoying. 

 

 

Thanks