Hi Helpful peeps, thoughts please. 2006 Elegance TDI Estate.

 

Brief history. Passenger door lock played up for short period (not unlocking well via fob) then stopped working perhaps 2yrs ago. I opened the door panel to find the riveted inner panel. Ended up managing to spray lubricant around lock (without removing inner panel) which cured issues completely. More recently drivers lock gave me issues which I have suspected may also be seizing rather than electrical. Haven't worried about fixing it as I lock the door manually if I was worried about items in the car.

 

Now the passenger's is playing up again. Oddly, it seems to open ok in this scenario: press fob twice to unlock all doors (car set like this), get in and put ignition on then press lock and unlock via rocker switch on drivers door handle. Passenger door pops open ok.

 

I was just looking for a bit of feedback on how best to proceed. TBH if I can permanently have the passengers door unlocked this wouldn't worry me too much but it would of course be better to fix it properly. I actually have a new passenger lock (ebay cheap one) that I had intended to fit 2 years ago. Just not sure just now if the passenger issue is electrical from something other than the internal door part.

 

Many thanks

 

Edited 5 January, 20224 yr by silver50

Just fit the new lock before the door gets deadlocked permanently, you'll be in a whole new world of hurt if that happens and we won't be able to help you.

5 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Just fit the new lock before the door gets deadlocked permanently, you'll be in a whole new world of hurt if that happens and we won't be able to help you.

 

Such as with the Mk1 Octy AFAIK, where you'd have to be very careful (if you're able to remove/get to the parts) not to break or damage anything.

I’ve been into it today. Signal wise, I am wondering if definitely the lock unit and not the body control module. My electric windows (like my last fabia) behave oddly. It now seems the above regarding operation from the interior locking rocker switch isn’t working properly either. It’ll either work or the lock is silent. This is why I’m not sure which electrical centre might be the issue?

 

Ive disconnected the lock inside the door and it appears the door will lock/unlock manually with the (visible on top of door panel) door pin. The pin was able to be extended up quite high on the inner pin (and have epoxy’d it in that position) so I should be able to lock this door from inside should I so wish. 
 

At present my drivers door doesn’t operate well from the fob so is greatly open, but alarm wails if someone were to open it. 
 

So may just settle for this ghetto/hooptie fix. Car is just a little workhorse. 
 

 

Have you got a second keyfob to try?

 

Quick easy and free things to check are your fob battery isn't low, your car battery isn't low and the disconnect car battery reset (I'd charge the car battery as the same time).  You could take your fob apart and clean it inside and out.

 

Always worth the try of lubricating the locks (without flooding everything) WD-40 Multi Use isn't long lasting so something like GT-85 is better.

 

Also check that it's not some sort of radio interference from whatever you carry or where the car is parked.

 

If any/all above doesn't work so what nothing lost and if any one does happy days.

 

Obviously you won't be leaving your car unlocked as your insurer wouldn't like it.

 

 

 

Thanks but it’s not acting like a low battery or bad connection. It seems like a temperamental electrical issue.

 

I’ve got it back together now with the passenger door lock disconnected and an ability to manually lock/unlock via the door pin. I can now grip it pull it back up when it’s in the (locked) down position. This will do for now. 

It's possibly a bad wire or bad connection between the computer and physical lock which you can possibly find by visual inspection and or multimeter or the use of a higher level scan tool that suggest area of fault and test individual parts.  Yeap, a lot of sorting and hassle for a runabout, so . . . 

 

10 hours ago, silver50 said:

My electric windows (like my last fabia) behave oddly

8 hours ago, silver50 said:

It seems like a temperamental electrical issue.

So the quick, easy, free thing you can try is the car battery thing as in vid above, it will not repair poor connections or wires but it can reset the computers if they've got their panties in a twist which not unknown, ever turned it "off 'n' on agen".

 

Another thought, quick, easy, free, if the keyfobs can be synchronised, usual done after keyfob  battery change, and on my wife's previous car you could also resynchronise the windows less than two very easy minutes work for both on my wife's previous car.

 

Just suggestions, quick, easy and free to try, I'll leave it at that.

 

Edited 5 January, 20224 yr by nta16

18 hours ago, nta16 said:

It's possibly a bad wire or bad connection between the computer and physical lock which you can possibly find by visual inspection and or multimeter or the use of a higher level scan tool that suggest area of fault and test individual parts.  Yeap, a lot of sorting and hassle for a runabout, so . . . 

 

So the quick, easy, free thing you can try is the car battery thing as in vid above, it will not repair poor connections or wires but it can reset the computers if they've got their panties in a twist which not unknown, ever turned it "off 'n' on agen".

 

Another thought, quick, easy, free, if the keyfobs can be synchronised, usual done after keyfob  battery change, and on my wife's previous car you could also resynchronise the windows less than two very easy minutes work for both on my wife's previous car.

 

Just suggestions, quick, easy and free to try, I'll leave it at that.

 

Appreciate your input. Don’t want you to think haven’t replied or dis interested, I’ve just been awfully busy with other things incl covid related concerns. 

1 hour ago, silver50 said:

Appreciate your input. Don’t want you to think haven’t replied or dis interested, I’ve just been awfully busy with other things incl covid related concerns. 

No problem, we sometimes forget these lumps of metal aren't anywhere near very important.  I hope you also get important things sorted.

 

I wasn't going to put my last post and just leave it but I'm glad I did now,  All the best.

 

I have had a problem with my Mk2 Fabia O/S rear lock which would not unlock. Removed inner panel and after feeling around lock it worked. Tried a few times and was intermittent so removed lock and sprayed with Plusgas where accessible - I will not use WD40 having come from heavy industry where this is considered a cheap domestic "do everything badly" product - and re-build. The lock worked but again became intermittent but found wriggling the electrical plug restored operation. I then used an electrical cleaner on the plug and socket and fitted removed a few times after which operation was continual. As this was a rear door I could not carry out a key in lock test, but the fact that you get operation from the internal switch could be that you are giving a signal over a greater length of time than a radio signal may, allowing the signal to operate the lock. As said this is a different scenario but may offer another option. Sep has suggested the best starting point as you can try the lock before fixing to location, which will ensure you are not chasing a ghost. It may also be worth "manipulating" the bellows while using the remote, or inspecting the wires in the bellows to check for broken or damaged wires.

KeithCheetham, I won't mention the length of your post there.  😄

 

I was a big fan of of PlusGas but since it's been took over and in the black labels I don't know if it has changed or other overtook it or where better before anyway.  Rapideeze used to be very good (UK) penetrating/releasing fluid but disappeared years ago.

 

Have you tried GT-85 (now unfortunately no longer UK but WD-Company owned) this is good as a penetrating/releasing agent, longer lasting as a lubricant (certainly than WD-40 Multi-Use) and can be used with electrical items so would cover a job like this in one can.  Has PTFE in which some people prefer to silicone.

 

GT-85 - https://gt85.co.uk/

 

PlusGas - https://www.plusgas.co.uk/en-gb

 

22 minutes ago, nta16 said:

KeithCheetham, I won't mention the length of your post there.  😄

Just a simple statement of facts based on RCA methodology I have used onshore/offshore worldwide as an engineer in the pump industry. Unsure if a product containing silicone or PTFE would be suitable in electrical connectors as it may form a minimal non-conductive barrier to metal/metal contact hence the use of an electrical contact cleaner rather than Plusgas in this application - my fibreglass pencil will not access the pins or sockets to give abrasive cleaning.

Sorry, no you missed my joke there, doesn't matter.

 

I wasn't thinking of the GT-85 or silicone on the pins and sockets as such, I use electrical contact cleaner and Contralube 770 on those, more of cleaning, driving out moisture and lubricating for parting of the connectors. 

 

Unfortunately GT-85 now being one of the brands owned by WD-40 Company (along with 3-In-One) GT-85 gets the same wonder product do-all type of marketing, the one thing American corporations are not is shy.

 

I found GT-85 in the 80s when I used to pushbike, before that LPS(?) 1 and 3. and PlusGas was in one of the blue labels then but as I put I used Rapideeze from neighbouring county of Leicestershire white drip tin with spout.

 

I saw someone put they'd used this, I wondered if perhaps it'd an alternative to PlusGas and perhaps GT-85 for rusted parts but don't know anyone that tried it, Innotec Deblock Oil XS. - https://www.innotec.eu/oth/en//deblock-oil-xs/p1858

  

Edited 7 January, 20224 yr by nta16

9 hours ago, nta16 said:

Sorry, no you missed my joke there, doesn't matter.

  

 Not a problem, it is just that without giving full details such, as the mention of electrical contact cleaner, the average DIYer will not carry out repairs that will have the best opportunity of working, especially as most people think WD40 is the magic wand of all repairs.