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Brake Discs


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I recently purchased a superb from Arnold Clark. On testing and since picking it up it vibrates on harsh braking, like when stopping at junction. This then continues for a little while after pulling off. I was assured the brakes were checked and worked on before picking it up and this is what they look like now only after less than 1000 miles. 1 is drivers side. 1 is passenger side.

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The discs are starting to delaminate, I'm not sure of Arnold Clark's used car preparation policy but those discs are in need of replacement.

 

Vibration under braking would often point to brake discs and/or pads, but the fact the vibration continues after you've set off again (and presumably not braking) is unusual.

 

Edited by silver1011
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4 hours ago, silver1011 said:

The discs are starting to delaminate, I'm not sure of Arnold Clark's used car preparation policy but those discs are in need of replacement.

That's a new one on me! Disks delaminating! Seriously dangerous if that were the case!  

 

Having a rusty lip on the outer brake disks diameters and the rust peeling away isn't unusual as there is nothing contacting the surfaces to keep them clean. In one of the photos the fact there is rust on the outer disc face and the inner is clean means there has been uneven pad wear so full contact between disk pad and brake disk isn't happening. So having vibration under braking is likely. Though as someone else as mentioned strange that the vibration continues after braking, maybe you have sticking brake pads or a faulty caliper? Does the car pull to one side during braking?

 

If the car isn't being used much or stood for sometime on a forecourt then it won't be unusual for the disks to rust. A few drops of water on a clean shinny cast iron surface and it's not long before the surface will turn brown as it starts to rust. This isn't much of an issue on a car that's being regularly used as any light surface rust is soon rubbed away by the brake pads. The longer a car stands and the heavier the build of rust build becomes especially if the car is at the mercy of the elements. Heavy rust will build up and clog the brake pads surfaces leading to scoring and uneven pad wear. 

 

Cast iron is a very good material for using on braking surfaces as it's relatively cheap and has a good coefficient of friction which you want in a braking system, but unlike stainless steel it rusts easily. I'm not sure you'll get very far with Arnold Clark depending on how long you've had the car? Though if you don't ask you won't know.

 

I agree with the others the brake pads and disks want replacing though if you can do it yourself it doesn't have to be too expensive.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271192951224?hash=item3f245c09b8:g:AXUAAOSwqCdexQsm

 

 

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Basically knackered them discs and need changed.

Thats beyond surface rust with standing and won’t clean up braking, rust as got behind the braking surface and as been said starting to delaminate.

Lads brake discs, obviously a lot worse 

FF8DA418-CD31-44CD-B1F3-7B31982DC4C5.jpeg

Edited by Snapper1725
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7 minutes ago, Snapper1725 said:

Basically knackered them discs and need changed.

Thats beyond surface rust with standing and won’t clean up braking, rust as got behind the braking surface and as been said starting to delaminate.

Lads brake discs, obviously a lot worse 

FF8DA418-CD31-44CD-B1F3-7B31982DC4C5.jpeg

How does cast iron delaminate ??? That's just the rust breaking up.  I've skimmed discs with a worse surface than that.

 

I resurfaced all 4 discs on my 2004 Seat Toledo  and just changed the brake pads when I bought it and got another 30,000 out of them. I do high miles with little town driving. I'm an extreme tight arse and have a lathe. The 2nd time replaced all 4 disks and pads for £65 which was a dam sight quicker than re-surfacing.

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On 13/12/2021 at 16:05, silver1011 said:

 

 

 

3 hours ago, Derbyshirebod said:

That's a new one on me! Disks delaminating! Seriously dangerous if that were the case!  

 

Having a rusty lip on the outer brake disks diameters and the rust peeling away isn't unusual as there is nothing contacting the surfaces to keep them clean. In one of the photos the fact there is rust on the outer disc face and the inner is clean means there has been uneven pad wear so full contact between disk pad and brake disk isn't happening. So having vibration under braking is likely. Though as someone else as mentioned strange that the vibration continues after braking, maybe you have sticking brake pads or a faulty caliper? Does the car pull to one side during braking?

 

If the car isn't being used much or stood for sometime on a forecourt then it won't be unusual for the disks to rust. A few drops of water on a clean shinny cast iron surface and it's not long before the surface will turn brown as it starts to rust. This isn't much of an issue on a car that's being regularly used as any light surface rust is soon rubbed away by the brake pads. The longer a car stands and the heavier the build of rust build becomes especially if the car is at the mercy of the elements. Heavy rust will build up and clog the brake pads surfaces leading to scoring and uneven pad wear. 

 

Cast iron is a very good material for using on braking surfaces as it's relatively cheap and has a good coefficient of friction which you want in a braking system, but unlike stainless steel it rusts easily. I'm not sure you'll get very far with Arnold Clark depending on how long you've had the car? Though if you don't ask you won't know.

 

I agree with the others the brake pads and disks want replacing though if you can do it yourself it doesn't have to be too expensive.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271192951224?hash=item3f245c09b8:g:AXUAAOSwqCdexQsm

 

 

Literally less than 2 months and only done 425 miles since I bought it. I was told after a 2 week delay they had been working on the brakes. But I can't remember which ones they said they had done  I'm presuming the rest ones

Edited by mustang86
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Not that it will make much difference to Arnold Clark's management until you do TrustPilot posts and we shame on here and elsewhere and then they get the idea.

But,

when was the MOT last done and what advisories and was the MOT done inhouse.

 

They sold me a Suzuki with a new MOT, and 2 free services and 2 MOT's.

The failed MOT pre me buying it was on Discs and a broken spring and those were done before the pass and i got the car.

12 months and 3,000 miles later it went for the Service & MOT and i was going back in 2 hours to collect the car.

30 minutes later i get phoned to say it failed on brakes / discs and a springs.

I said i would be back in 20 minutes.  By that time the brakes and springs were off and in the scrap bin & parts were on order from Suzuki @ Parks. 

 

Well they had the car 2 days and they got no money from me and i took nothing off Social Media that i had posted about the cheating barstewards.

The calls from Management did get more frantic.  

Funnily not been invited in for this years Service & MOT.

 

As to crap discs on Skoda's there are so many examples of those over the various forums / models on Briskoda.

many examples of ones that were recently passed in front of a fitter or technician with very poor eye sight.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/463451-rusted-rear-discs

Some are that busy making a vid to show the tyres and exhaust that they flash past the brakes or fail to look at the back of the discs. 

(Times money and customer and road users safety is not their concern.)

Edited by roottoot
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6 minutes ago, mustang86 said:

 

Literally less than 2 months and only done 425 miles since I bought it. I was told after a 2 week delay they had been working on the brakes. But I can't remember which ones they said they had done  I'm presuming the rest ones

The disks in your photos can't have been replaced before you bought it I doubt they would deteriorate that quickly from new. Though however it's possible for them to get that bad if they were already old disks with the low mileage you've done in 2 months and the car has been stood outside in the driving rain.

 

My partner has recently changed her 2014 F Type Jaguar it had only done 30K and all 4 disks were quite grooved when you ran your finger nails across the disk faces. During lock down she was working from home and the car wouldn't move for a month or more! You could see all 4 disks through the wheel spokes were covered in surface rust most of which did come after a run. But the rust that then was cleaned of by the pads was sticking to the pads and causing uneven wear.

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I guess the car is at least 6 years old, quite an old model for a franchised dealer to put on their forecourt?

 

Either way brakes are wear and tear items. Given how recently you bought the car and the low mileage you've covered since buying it then your options are to ask Arnold Clark to replace the discs and pads for free, or given that you missed them during your pre-purchase inspection, get them replaced yourself locally.

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I last drove my car before I started working on it last Wednesday. I have the car half in the garage on axle stands. On realising I needed to order some more parts and not needing to use the car till next week I'd decided to leave it till all the parts I needed arrived. The decision also in part to the weather turning and we've had a fair bit of snow and now rain, It's not been nice out there! Unfortunately the orientation of my garage door is in the direction of the prevailing weather! My brake disks were relativity nice and clean look how rusty they have become in a 4 days!  

Superb Hulland Ward 08-01-22.jpg

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That is how many go and all is well if cleaned off without scoring the discs that some have which are just crap. 

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/477410-scored-rear-brake-discs

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/496364-rear-disc-thickness-on-a-le-15-aus-version

 

 

My 15 month old Electric Corsa is driven every day but the brakes are never really used as the regen does the stopping and the e-Brake can not clean the rears as it brings the car to a dead stop if any attempt is made to pull it on.  At any speed.  

 

PSA  now Stellantis

source rubbish components just as VW Group does. 

 

My Shogun does a few miles once or twice a week and has no rust on the discs as do any other cars i have other than VW Group ones. 

Only done 700 miles since cheap new discs were fitted 14 months ago and there is no rust on them.

 

 

DSCN0582.JPG.e80850431968fcc94ae589ca4e8f7476 (1).jpeg

 

DSCN0580.JPG.e8f13b049f3f09bf92118f2eabcfba96.jpeg

Edited by roottoot
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24 minutes ago, silver1011 said:

 

Treat the old girl to some wheel nut caps 😂

😅  I'm thinking about going from 17" wheels to 16" so may well have to if I buy Seat, VW or Audi wheels :-) 

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  • 1 month later...

So the Saga continues. The brakes and pads were changed, now less than 1000 since the new disk looks like this. At the moment Arnold Clark are refusing to replace it. In there word 'Regrettably, vehicles are prone to rust and as far as we are aware the car is fit for purpose and mechanically sound. As such, the branch has informed us they will not be contributing any further to the cost of work done to your vehicle'.

20220228_162251.jpg

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4 minutes ago, mustang86 said:

So the Saga continues. The brakes and pads were changed, now less than 1000 since the new disk looks like this. At the moment Arnold Clark are refusing to replace it. In there word 'Regrettably, vehicles are prone to rust and as far as we are aware the car is fit for purpose and mechanically sound. As such, the branch has informed us they will not be contributing any further to the cost of work done to your vehicle'.

20220228_162251.jpg

These are the rear disks ?

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15 minutes ago, mustang86 said:

It's a 30 odd mile round trip to work. I'm a paramedic, so wouldn't say I'm a slow driver 🤣

Doesn't look like you're very hard on you brakes either! 😊  It's not how fast you drive but how hard you stand on the brakes! I could understand the disks rusting like that on the rear in particular as most of the braking force goes to the front. If you're gentle on the brakes and rely on engine braking to slow you down then the rear brakes never have to do much work which can lead to rusting as the brake pads are never forced hard enough against the disks to properly clean the braking surfaces.

 

But with the distance you're traveling everyday I wouldn't expect the brake discs to be getting that rusty that quickly! Some thing isn't quite right like the brake pad isn't being pressed flat to the disk ?  Maybe you have a partially seized front brake caliper ? 

Edited by Derbyshirebod
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Just finding frustrating that so far after having the car 3 months it's been back 3 times. They've still not even managed to find the record to say they serviced it before I picked it up with I find very suspicious 

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If those discs and pads were changed only 1000 miles ago, then there is clearly something very wrong.

 

Possibly wrong brake pads or incorrectly fitted.

 

But a more likely possibility is the caliper is not sitting square on, due to major damage, the carrier or hub is distorted due to (massive) side impact earlier in its life. That would be the reason for the vibration experienced earlier.

 

It is a repeat story on the original disks, affecting one side only, pad only contacting inner 60% of disc surface. So I reckon something is bent on that side. Hub or carrier.

 

You need to take it to a good independent and ask them to take a look and give a verdict. Not a dealer, not a national chain, but a local independent specialist

 

Arnold Clarke probably know the problem but don't want the expense of fixing.

Edited by xman
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The brakes don't seem to be getting noticeably hot. It was hovering around freezing on the journey to work and after the 16 mile trip to work there was not obvious heat coming from them

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