Fabia III Tailgate unlatching problem

[iamian]

With all the doors open from the fob or from the internal lock/unlock button the tailgate will not open from the outside.

There is a quiet click from the rubbery handle above the numberplate but the latch will not disengage.

 

However, if you press the middle button on the fob to unlock the tailgate then it will unlatch.

 

It seems like a problem with the microswitch in the handle mechanism?

 

Anyone know of a solution please?  

[nta16]

I'm not sure if I've understood what you mean but I'm not sure that is a problem, if the key is in the ignition.

 

Others might know but I'd need more explanation.

 

If I'm waiting for my wife to finish work and I'm sitting in the driver's seat listening to the radio, engine off but key in ignition, then I don't see here approach and she can't open the hatch door.  I don't have time to find the button before she's put opened one of the back doors and put her stuff on the back seat.

 

I was going to investigate which, if any, button(s) would unlock the hatch door but that would mean delaying departure and I'm probably only collecting her in her car because I'm driving her to drink.

 

ETA: have you looked in the Operators Manual to see if there's anything or a setting in one of the menus, I keep meaning to but forget.

 

 

Edited 11 January, 2022 by nta16
ETA:

[iamian]

Thanks but I don’t think that’s it.
It is a problem that happens when I’m outside the car, ignition off with all doors unlocked.

It’s just started doing in this week after 3.5 years.

I’ve not had problems with previous Fabia /Octavia models in same scenario.

[nta16]

Fair enough.  I suppose the quiet click is the electric trying to do its work.  So the usual checks, connection and activation of the switchlock, the latch and catch alignment, anything fouling those or the tailgate seal twisted or pulled or fouling.  You could try clean and lubricating all as you inspect them.

 

If you have an appropriate scan tool you could check the communication and power to and activation perhaps.

 

I always like plenty of car (and keyfobs) battery power to also overcome or help stuff that might have got weaker.

 

Perhaps others will be along with more and better ideas.

   

[Bepis]

Had this excat issue with mine not too long ago. The boot would open with the key fob but wouldn't respond to the actual button on the boot itself. No errors logged in the infotainment screen or the central electrics module (VCDS). The latching mechanism was fine but needed a new button fitted.

 

I'm assuming that like mine the clicking noise you're hearing is the tactile click from the button itself that you're pressing and not the latching mechanism.

[AnnoyingPentium]

We had a similar issue with my Granda's 2008 Fiat Grande Punto where it needed the release mechanism replaced. It, however, relied on a key fob or interior button only.

 

Hope this helps you.

[KeithCheetham]

4 hours ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

We had a similar issue with my Granda's 2008 Fiat Grande Punto 

 A Fix It Again Tomorrow is not a good example for similar problems. It is like comparing apples and pears, or in this case peaches and durians. 

[AnnoyingPentium]

15 minutes ago, KeithCheetham said:

 A Fix It Again Tomorrow is not a good example for similar problems. It is like comparing apples and pears, or in this case peaches and durians. 

 

I suppose so. I felt that, given the similar issue, that it may be of use.

[iamian]

What I hear is I think the physical noise of the microswitch, not an electrical or solenoid noise. The latching mechanism works fine from the centre button on both fobs which makes me think the fault lies in the “handle” above the number plate or the wiring associated with it. 
 

Again, any thoughts or experience welcome.

Edited 11 January, 2022 by iamian
Better wording.

[nta16]

The microswitch is electrical.

 

Use of a bi-directional scan tool to test and look for where a break might be.

 

Or, at your own responsibility for injury to yourself or vehicle as this is just general thoughts as I don't know what's on or with these cars for the 'handle' operation and note I'm not an expert in anything - remove the handle assembly and test at that point with a multimeter or with bulb for a yes/no, check operation of catch/latch/lock at that point by bridging microswitch connections if possible or bypassing.

[rum4mo]

I'd think that it is quite possible to feel/hear the micro switch switching or changing state.

[iamian]

30 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

I'd think that it is quite possible to feel/hear the micro switch switching or changing state.

 

Yes, you can hear and feel a faint metallic click from the microswitch but it does not actuate the latch.

However, a long press on the middle button on the key fob will unlatch it.   

 

It suggests than power is not reaching it or the switch is faulty. 

[nta16]

If the remote works from the middle button only then it sounds like it might be a programming thing.

 

On 11/01/2022 at 11:22, nta16 said:

ETA: have you looked in the Operators Manual to see if there's anything or a setting in one of the menus, I keep meaning to but forget.

 

Are you sure it's not a setting in the Infotainment menu, as the first two options below?  ETA: note this is from our 2015 (hatchback?) 'Operating Instructions'.

 

Edited 12 January, 2022 by nta16
ETA:

[iamian]

Thanks, I'll take a look at the "Car" settings tomorrow, however, I cannot see anything in the owner's handbook to suggest it.

Opening everything from the internal button doesn't unlock it either.

[nta16]

2 minutes ago, iamian said:

Thanks, I'll take a look at the "Car" settings tomorrow, however, I cannot see anything in the owner's handbook to suggest it.

Opening everything from the internal button doesn't unlock it either.

I was just about to post if it's not something like above then it must be the microswitch or the wiring from it to whatever opens the catch/latch/lock.

 

If that didn't work I might try the car battery trick just because it's free and easy to do.

 

Good luck.

 

[iamian]

Thanks, I'll take a look at the "Car" settings tomorrow, however, I cannot see anything in the owner's handbook to suggest it.

Opening everything from the internal button doesn't unlock it either.

[iamian]

Solved!

After removing the inner panel from the tailgate and the ribbed trunking near the hinges it turned out to be 'nipped' wire in the offside where the grommet on the body-side had caught the wire.

 

As we bought the car new in 2018 and it's not had crash repairs or such, I guess this was a manufacturing fault waiting to show itself. 

 

 

[rum4mo]

Yes new cars can have a few assembly line or parts manufacturing errors that take some time to show up!

 

My bought new 1988 Ford Orion Ghia 1.6 Injection, had to drive over a bit of rough road on the way to visit my wife in maternity hospital just after our second daughter was born, car cut out, I called for RAC help but they were not interested in an under warranty car, so sent out a contractor with a low loader who gave me the option, dealer or home, I chose "home" and found that the LT feed to the coil was sort of faulty, the moulding of the insulated push-on connector had covered up most of the ring contact inside it - I had washed that car that day and moved that lead as it was wedged in at an awkward angle - I had discovered then why! I cleared off the plastic that was masking most of the contact area, gave that push-on terminal a good "squeeze" with a pair of pliers and "sorted" in time for the hospital next visiting time!  A few months later, when the weather got colder, I discovered that the demisters did not work, checked under the dashboard and found 2 pipes waiting to get "plugged in".

 

My wife's 1989 Ford Fiesta 1.1 Ghia, hear a rattle in the back when it was only a year old (no warranty as it was an ex Channel Isles hire car bought by us at 9 months old and 1350 miles), found an extra threaded plate for the rear door lock assembly, removed it, started making same noise a few weeks later, same thing - eventually removed 4 or 5 extra threaded plates), still have them in the garage I think.

 

My 1991 VX Cav GSI 2000 16V 4X4, similar cold weather issue with it, but this time it was "rear window heater not working", I removed the side trim cover and found a pair of leads still taped back out of the way, fitted them, rear window heater working okay for the next 9 years for me.

 

My wife's 1992 Ford Fiesta 1.6Si, we had it over 4 years before there was a rattle and then something fell down between my legs, after we stopped I found what looked like a bolt for securing the steering/ignition lock assembly, ie it had a waisted neck on it but where it should shear while being torqued up, it had not - after getting back home refitted that one and found the other one was also very slack. Totqued both back up shearing the heads off as intended. (a security design thing)

[iamian]

It's the first fault traceable to manufacture I've had with any of 7 Škodas.

I did have an Austin Metro however when I only discovered that the cooling fan wasn't connected when in the queue at Blackpool Illuminations.   

Don't get me on about my VX Omega! 

[rum4mo]

I am not and never have been a VX fanboy, but that VX Cav GSI 2000 16V 4X4 was a very good car, I had it for over 8 years and the factory order VW Passat 2.8V6 4Motion that I replaced it with was less than half the car that GSI 4X4 was, my 2011 Audi S4 is probably better than that Cav GSI 4X4 was, and I should hope so too as it is 20 years newer!

 

I used to have to drive a similar aged VX Cav 1.6 as a pool car at work, and it was a complete dog in every way, no power steering and "not nice" brakes.

[AnnoyingPentium]

3 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

I am not and never have been a VX fanboy, but that VX Cav GSI 2000 16V 4X4 was a very good car, I had it for over 8 years and the factory order VW Passat 2.8V6 4Motion that I replaced it with was less than half the car that GSI 4X4 was, my 2011 Audi S4 is probably better than that Cav GSI 4X4 was, and I should hope so too as it is 20 years newer!

 

I used to have to drive a similar aged VX Cav 1.6 as a pool car at work, and it was a complete dog in every way, no power steering and "not nice" brakes.

 

I grew up around Cav's and some Vectra B's. All pretty decent cars.

 

Haven't got a photograph of the red Cav 1.8 on this computer but I have one of my Grandad's Vectra B.

 

 

Now anyway, I'll crawl back from the whole whence I came as not to derail this thread further.

[rum4mo]

20 hours ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

 

I grew up around Cav's and some Vectra B's. All pretty decent cars.

 

Now anyway, I'll crawl back from the whole whence I came as not to derail this thread further.

I just never worked out why VX never tried to keep or lure Ford buyers in, from far too long the marketing side of VX has been its worst enemy.

 

Ford lost me when it repeatedly, or its sales people repeatedly informed me that "5 speed gearboxes were just a fashion fad" followed maybe a year later by informing me "multi valve petrol engines will never take off", then tried to get me into a rear wheel drive car (Sierra) as that was what proper drivers liked, and no chance that any cars would be 4X4 "very soon", so in late 1991 I accidentally walked past a VX showroom who had just taken in a 6 month old Cav GSI 2000 16V 4X4 which had a 5 speed gear box - so ticked all my boxes, and so I left Ford for ever!