Well, I'd like to see a month where I'm not ready to perform a John Cleese on my Fabia. It's aging somewhat like milk that's been left on a windowsill on that one warm Scottish July day.

 

This time I'm seeing something I've never seen before in that my car cuts out sometimes when the clutch is depressed or it'll threaten to before picking back up. It seems to be doing this when I start the car too (only when cold), which is outlined in the video below. It's also rather inconsistent as it doesn't do it constantly and when it does choose to do this, it's often turning off smoothly enough for me not to notice, which is "fun" at roundabouts so far. I've also got a mildly dicky driver's front electric window in that it goes so far up, then goes back down before having to be brought up by holding the button, thinking this is coincidence and caused by something sticking though. First time it happened did annoy the electrics though and caused the whole car to spasm.

 

 

Anyway, I've not got anything on Saturday, so some prodding shall be done, checking the usual suspects:

 

• Hoses and various pipework.
• Double checking the battery (already checked and was okay voltage-wise, both when running and when the engine is off)
• Fault codes that may be stored, if there is any.
• Spark plugs, which will be replaced ideally. I believe them to be original... which isn't good. Plus I've been planning to do them for ages.

 

Is there anywhere else I'm missing? My hypothesis so far is that the clutch pedal switch (these Fabias have one, right?) is on its way out and is causing this thing to have fits, but it may be something deeper and more of a pain in the arse than that, so thought I'd check here first before running head first and playing 'parts darts'.

 

Ta in advance lads and lady lads,

 

Ryan

 

Edited 17 March, 20224 yr by AnnoyingPentium

Guess what I start with!

 

How are you measuring the battery and what with. 

 

Did you also check the alternator readings.

 

Checked the battery connections and earth(s) for condition and security.

 

Did you sort your previous clutch issue.

 

Yeap check for fault codes but if there aren't any it proves this is all in your imagination or you're dreaming and might wake up soon, definitely dreaming about milk going off on a warm Scottish July day.

 

Just now, nta16 said:

How are you measuring the battery and what with. 

 

Multi-meter. I'll double check it on Saturday when I've got access to one as I can't remember what I did with my own one!

 

1 minute ago, nta16 said:

Did you also check the alternator readings.

 

No. I didn't. I'll sort that on Saturday as I'm at my Grampa's then.

 

1 minute ago, nta16 said:

Checked the battery connections and earth(s) for condition and security.

 

Nope, not in some time at least. It really could do with being checked again as the inner wing on had to be redirected, and was substituted with two, one on the strut tower, and one down towards the PAS pump. This was a result of the inner wing one shearing clean off, but had always been problematic.

 

3 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Did you sort your previous clutch issue.

 

Yes. The fluid was replaced when the two rear brake cylinders were replaced to get it through an MOT test. I have no issues selecting reverse or other gears now, it's smooth as butter.

 

3 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Yeap check for fault codes but if there aren't any it proves this is all in your imagination or you're dreaming and might wake up soon, definitely dreaming about milk going off on a warm Scottish July day.

 

I won't rely on fault codes entirely though if there are none. I don't think having your engine cut out along with your PAS when turning onto a junction is quite a dream, a nightmare perhaps. I bet my panicking is probably on the dash-cam.

3 hours ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

which is "fun" at roundabouts so far

It's worse when you suffer an unexpected arms failure, but the engine is still propelling the car.

4 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

It's worse when you suffer an unexpected arms failure, but the engine is still propelling the car.

 

That's scary. So far I've been going round the Bankfield/Queen Margaret Roundabout in Ayr before saying to myself "christ this steering is heavy" and I've went to set off at a roundabout and the car has turned itself off.

The answer is that your car is haunted. There was an orb that floated up just as you turned the key 😲

1 minute ago, TMB said:

The answer is that your car is haunted.

 

I honestly wouldn't be surprised, Lee. Think it's out to get me.

37 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

engine cut out along with your PAS when turning onto a junction is quite a dream, a nightmare perhaps

Is your power steering via battery power per chance.  Just tell everyone you were stopping to let pedestrians across  😁

 

 

39 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

The fluid was replaced when the two rear brake cylinders were replaced to get it through an MOT test. I have no issues selecting reverse or other gears now, it's smooth as butter.

As I remember it you were told, not by me, that wouldn't effect the clutch, you must have been dreaming again. (note: I'm pulling your leg).

 

All I could hear on your 6 seconds video was a car starting.

 

You'll sort it, perhaps best not to drive the car until Saturday if you're worried.

 

6 minutes ago, nta16 said:

All I could hear on your 6 seconds video was a car starting.

 

I should have emphasised that if you look at the dash cluster in the video then you can see the EPC, ABS and Check Engine lights come on again for a brief moment. It wasn't picked up well, if at all in the video but there was a momentary pause in the starting when I was filming that. It done it twice from cold today, and I had a momentary flash of the lights when I put the clutch pedal in when changing gear. It hasn't properly "conked out" since Tuesday morning (touch wood).

 

9 minutes ago, nta16 said:

You'll sort it, perhaps best not to drive the car until Saturday if you're worried.

 

I'm not too concerned. I've been driving it just about all week like this but am just now making the post since it's getting nearer the time for doing something about it as I'll have better tools at my Grampa's should any job require anything else.

2 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

I should have emphasised that if you look at the dash cluster in the video then you can see the EPC, ABS and Check Engine lights come on again for a brief moment.

Listening and watching, all too much and too fast for me, but now you've pointed it out and I've replayed it twice (can't watch both dials at once) yes I did see it, well both.

 

 

6 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

I'm not too concerned. I've been driving it just about all week like this but am just now making the post since it's getting nearer the time for doing something about it as I'll have better tools at my Grampa's should any job require anything else.

Fair enough.  Tell your Grampa you've been told to put a shilling in the meter.

 

All the best for Saturday it'll be interesting to see what you find and what it turns out to be, good luck.

 

Just now, nta16 said:

9 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

I should have emphasised that if you look at the dash cluster in the video then you can see the EPC, ABS and Check Engine lights come on again for a brief moment.

Listening and watching, all too much and too fast for me, but now you've pointed it out and I've replayed it twice (can't watch both dials at once) yes I did see it, well both.

 

 

9 minutes ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

I'm not too concerned. I've been driving it just about all week like this but am just now making the post since it's getting nearer the time for doing something about it as I'll have better tools at my Grampa's should any job require anything else.

Fair enough.  Tell your Grampa you've been told to put a shilling in the meter.

 

All the best for Saturday it'll be interesting to see what you find and what it turns out to be, good luck.

 

Thanks Nigel. I'll report back if anything is found, or even if it isn't, all in the name of exploration.

If it's witchcraft keep it to yourself!

 

Cheers.

 

A loose battery terminal is the simplest explanation for symptoms like these.

2 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

A loose battery terminal is the simplest explanation for symptoms like these.

 

Thanks, Pete. Will go about tightening and cleaning up all the terminals and contacts as well, just to rule that out.

Today all ground connections at the strut/inner wing were removed, cleaned, reconnected, and checked with the meter for continuity.

 

Didn't take readings from the alternator but we have progressed in terms of faults...

 

 

The EPC light is on permanently. When driving about it just goes to switch itself off and doesn't allow for acceleration etc. Two code readers were tried (one worked earlier but found no codes before the light came on) but now both say the same "LINK ERROR!" message all the time, not allowing me to connect to the car.

 

Any help is appreciated.

Edited 19 March, 20224 yr by AnnoyingPentium

Tried the pair of code readers on my Grampa's Insignia and they both work fine. Just not with the Fabia.

Check cabin fuse 3 (5 amp).

Did you never get VCDS and suitable cable?

2 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Did you never get VCDS and suitable cable?

 

I didn't. I gave up in the end because I didn't think I'd need it... I spoke too soon.

 

I think Jaspire is my nearest with VCDS, so might need to get in touch with him.

 

2 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Check cabin fuse 3 (5 amp).

 

Will do. Thanks. 

Edited 19 March, 20224 yr by AnnoyingPentium
Bloomin' phone.

VCDS Lite is the single most useful tool you can have.

Just now, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

VCDS Lite is the single most useful tool you can have.

 

About to buy the cable from Gendan as we speak.

Cable bought from Gendan. Also went out and removed, checked and reseated the fuse but still the readers don't work on the Fabia.

 

Car was no issue on the journey home but I'm not convinced yet. 

 

Usual from me - bluetooth OBD2 and Torque which may allow you to have full screen voltage reading on a phone screen in a windscreen holder in direct view that could possibly allow you to see voltage at ECU when the issue is experienced as it does not appear that there is a proper root cause yet such as voltage loss. Checking on driveway when issue not present may not really represent why it may happen - vibration, components moving under deceleration or lateral movement as typicals. Wino may be able to answer if there is a chance of "busmain" that all battery fuses are mounted on getting cracked or corroded allowing intermittent issue. I stated may above as this Torque method depends on communication between ODB port and ECU, which code readers currently appear not to have, but Torque may operate differently looking for values rather than data stored in a memory chip. 

2 minutes ago, KeithCheetham said:

Usual from me - bluetooth OBD2 and Torque which may allow you to have full screen voltage reading on a phone screen in a windscreen holder in direct view that could possibly allow you to see voltage at ECU when the issue is experienced as it does not appear that there is a proper root cause yet such as voltage loss. Checking on driveway when issue not present may not really represent why it may happen - vibration, components moving under deceleration or lateral movement as typicals. Wino may be able to answer if there is a chance of "busmain" that all battery fuses are mounted on getting cracked or corroded allowing intermittent issue. I stated may above as this Torque method depends on communication between ODB port and ECU, which code readers currently appear not to have, but Torque may operate differently looking for values rather than data stored in a memory chip. 

 

Thanks for that information, Keith. I had been recommended to use a Bluetooth device with the car on another forum so have sent away for a wee one of these devices to connect my smartphone to.

 

I was once able to bring the EPC light on at one point but it never came back on when driving the 15 miles back to the house. Once again, cheers.

6 hours ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

Today all ground connections at the strut/inner wing were removed, cleaned, reconnected, and checked with the meter for continuity.

On the meter front- check out both Aldi & Lidl for them. Usually circa £10 and as I'm more used to expensive Fluke ones, I'm impressed. Basic, but good enough for most jobs. On the topic of checking connections for continuity, may I suggest checking the voltage drop over  connections when drawing a bit of power. e.g. at start up . A connection may show up as .01 ohms, but when drawing a bit of current that could result in a drop of 1 volt to a sensitive part when the current is that taken by a starter motor. It's another way using a cheap meter  that is unable to check low resistance values/ high currents to detect bad connections using Ohms law as a partially bad connection will create a voltage drop on the connection.

3 minutes ago, VWD said:

On the meter front- check out both Aldi & Lidl for them. Usually circa £10 and as I'm more used to expensive Fluke ones, I'm impressed. Basic, but good enough for most jobs. On the topic of checking connections for continuity, may I suggest checking the voltage drop over  connections when drawing a bit of power. e.g. at start up . A connection may show up as .01 ohms, but when drawing a bit of current that could result in a drop of 1 volt to a sensitive part when the current is that taken by a starter motor. It's another way using a cheap meter  that is unable to check low resistance values/ high currents to detect bad connections using Ohms law as a partially bad connection will create a voltage drop on the connection.

 

Thanks for the information. I'll keep it in mind should the cable I've ordered for VCDS not tell me what's wrong and I'll have to use my brain again...