Hahaha,

The rear caliper has arrived, and it has a different finish, a dull aluminium with mat satin texture.. 🤣

So, my plan now, find out from Brembo exactly what finish each caliper has then approach the eBay seller for advice on how to prep the calipers and brackets as all three components will need different application I would think.

 

Going on what @john999boysays "250ml eBay can and found it sufficient for two coats on four calipers", the kit says "CANDY APPLE GREEN + PRIMER+BASE 400ML SPRAY CAN X3", so one kit should do it 

On 02/06/2022 at 09:24, KenONeill said:

I'd agree with Brembo's advice for already painted calipers (eg Brembo, Porsche carbon discs or carbon ceramic): Otherwise use VHT (I've burnt fingers on hot discs and caliers before).

Thanks @KenONeill, Don't get me wrong these are entry level OEM replacement standard reconditioned Brembo cali at £110 front £130 rear so £480 all in...  Its a vRS but it's no sports car, I was just about to plump for this kit CANDY CALIPER KITS HIGH TEMP CANDY APPLE GREEN + PRIMER+BASE 400ML SPRAY CAN X3 | eBay - It says all 3x are spray and all 3x are VHT, could I ask would you kindly mind expanding on the comment " (I've burnt fingers on hot discs and caliers before)."? Do you mean you have had the paint fail previously? Could I ask what it was you used?

 

Thank you

The eBay seller is based down the road in the steel city Contact Us - CCR Custom Paints, so I'm going to take my calipers to them direct and have a chat 

I have purchased the kit - CANDY APPLE GREEN - £68.90

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255386403123

4 hours ago, MrZakalwe said:

I've burnt fingers on hot discs and calipers before

I'm not sure what, other than correcting the typo, needed expanded on! If you touch something hot, you can burn your fingers. I have actually done so!

So sorry!

Bit embarrassing, I thought you meant "burnt your fingers" in the sense that you used paint other than VHT and it blistered, or you spent money on a paint job and it failed.. Like "I'v had my fingers burned using eBay kit's....

You where talking literally 😊  

 

 

Can I be even more annoying and ask a question of you directly?

I am looking at how I go about bleeding the break fluid and what equipment I need, it is a comment that you made in a post that has been most helpful so far;

 

I have been searching for;

pressure brake bleeder
pressure bleeding kit

sub 1 bar pressure
Low pressure bleed
ABS pressure bleed
EDL valve bleed 

 

The results seem pretty much as below, Are any of these 5 the correct type I need? 

1- Auto Car Brake Fluid Oil Replacement Tool Automotive Pump Oil Bleeder Empty Drain Kit : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

2 - FreeTec Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder Tool with 4 Master Cylinder Adapters 90-120 PSI Change Automobile Motor Vehicles : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

3 - Laser 8018 Vacuum Tester & Brake Bleed Kit : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

4 - Orion Motor Tech 3L Brake Fluid Bleeder Hydraulic Brake Clutch Pneumatic Air Fluid Bleeder Kit Brake Bleeding Kit with Hand Car Brake Air Extractor Kit Clutch Vacuum Bleeding Fill Bottle (3L) : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

5 - Draper 71205 Universal Brake Bleeding Kit : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

 

I thick from what is said in that thread I will need either VDCS or Vagcom, but I will cross that bridge when I get there, first I want to get the calipers finished on the car and have all the equipment to get started.

 

Thank you

the reply from CCR Custom Paints,

 

    "The best thing to do when doing calipers is to strip them to bare metal and start from scratch with our ht primer then you know every thing will be perfect and there will not be any reactions
     Tony"

 

I shall continue to sand and prep the bracket while I wait for the paint and blead kit, at the moment I'm not shore what ill choose to do next 🧐

1 hour ago, MrZakalwe said:

I thick from what is said in that thread I will need either VDCS or Vagcom

1. VCDS and VAGCom are 2 different names for the same software tool. VCDS is more recent.
2. 1 bar is 15 PSI so you can definitely eliminate (2) from your shopping list.

53 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

1. VCDS and VAGCom are 2 different names for the same software tool. VCDS is more recent.
2. 1 bar is 15 PSI so you can definitely eliminate (2) from your shopping list.

 

Thanks,

yeah I assume number 4 on my shopping list is no good either -

Working pressure: 2 bar / 30 psi

Max. Pressure: 4 bar / 60 psi

 

8 hours ago, MrZakalwe said:

 

Thanks,

yeah I assume number 4 on my shopping list is no good either -

Working pressure: 2 bar / 30 psi

Max. Pressure: 4 bar / 60 psi

 

Not sure; I've asked whether that is relative or absolute pressure on Amazon.

9 hours ago, MicMac said:

 

 

Thanks for the advice, Eezibleed purchased..

Now what 😂, I'm working solid this week so I'll be painting bleeding next week

 

I'll keep posting 👍

9 hours ago, KenONeill said:

Not sure; I've asked whether that is relative or absolute pressure on Amazon.

Thanks Ken, gone with MicMac's advance on the Eezibleed

@MrZakalwe Ok, I got an answer to (4) on Amazon that reads 

Quote

Yes set to 30psi. But I found that the bottle wouldn't hold the psi and the cap that goes over the header tank would not get air tight.

 

I'm not certain the respondent knows the difference between relative and absolute pressure, and in particular that 30 PSI absolute is the 15 relative that we were looking for. I think he's not impressed by the device's build standard though.

17 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

@MrZakalwe Ok, I got an answer to (4) on Amazon that reads 

 

I'm not certain the respondent knows the difference between relative and absolute pressure, and in particular that 30 PSI absolute is the 15 relative that we were looking for. I think he's not impressed by the device's build standard though.

 

Thanks Ken, that's why I didn't get it straight away as I also noted he was not impressed, however, he did manage it, twice, I only assume using this device. Unfortunately I can't quite work out how or what his problem was resolved.

 

  "so on the off chance there was air stuck in the master cylinder i bled that to and on the nipple closest to the bulk head low and behold air then fluid. the only explation i can work out for this is the air has traveled up through the system cos the resevior was never empty. but all sorted now"

 

I don't know the difference between PSI measurements either, quick Google tells me that relative is to sea level absolute is not, I could probably find a converter with more searching.. 

 

I work at Halfords Retail, not the garage, changing the odd bulb or blade is my limit, mostly I scann itams and do what the computer tells me 🙄 - so the kit was cheep and the only one in the shop that might be suitable... 

 

Can I do any harm trying?

I had one of those Ezi-Bleed kits when they first came out ( late1970's)  and found you needed to lower the spare tyre pressure to under 10psi  (5psi worked best) otherwise the cap didn't seal on top of the reservoir, hopefully they have improved the seals since

1 hour ago, MrZakalwe said:

I don't know the difference between PSI measurements either

As I already implied the difference is that absolute pressure is 1 bar (say 15 PSI) higher than relative pressure. If (4) can operate at 30 PSI absolute, then it can operate at the 15 PSI relative that definitely doesn't force air into the ABS valve block.

1 hour ago, nige8021 said:

I had one of those Ezi-Bleed kits when they first came out ( late1970's)  and found you needed to lower the spare tyre pressure to under 10psi  (5psi worked best) otherwise the cap didn't seal on top of the reservoir, hopefully they have improved the seals since

 

I've bought and used 4 of these kits since late 1970s, and yes the weak area is always the car's fluid reservoir cap seal, or at least the Gunsons seal in the correct cap, which, for VW Group cars, there is a choice of seals as that cap fits 2 sizes!  I'm not sure that I ever worked out which seal works best with VW Group cars reservoir - as instructed on the box always fit the kit to the car dry first and pressurise to make sure that there are no air leaks, fluid leaks with normally area once you have started using this kit so smother everywhere with newspapers and paper towelling - always remembering the pln is never to allow brake fluid to get into contact with any paintwork that is on show!  I bodged up a "bought for that purpose" pump up garden sprayer to use as a pressure source, that saves messing around with a tyre.

2 hours ago, KenONeill said:

As I already implied the difference is that absolute pressure is 1 bar (say 15 PSI) higher than relative pressure. If (4) can operate at 30 PSI absolute, then it can operate at the 15 PSI relative that definitely doesn't force air into the ABS valve block.

 

I believe that the convention is to use the terms "absolute" and "guage pressure", it is in Engineering anyway.

21 hours ago, nige8021 said:

I had one of those Ezi-Bleed kits when they first came out ( late1970's)  and found you needed to lower the spare tyre pressure to under 10psi  (5psi worked best) otherwise the cap didn't seal on top of the reservoir, hopefully they have improved the seals since

 

Thanks, the instructions do say between 10 - 15, so I shall keep what you say in mind, and as you say these kits have been around so there is a good amount of vids and guides so reasonably confident

21 hours ago, KenONeill said:

As I already implied the difference is that absolute pressure is 1 bar (say 15 PSI) higher than relative pressure. If (4) can operate at 30 PSI absolute, then it can operate at the 15 PSI relative that definitely doesn't force air into the ABS valve block.

 

Aaha, I think, so with number 4 on the shopping list 

Working pressure: 2 bar / 30 psi

So if this is the relative measurement the absolute will be 1bar / 15psi and could be useful

 

I have to admit it was the one I thought would be the best, I didn't like the price, but, if it did the job well I have 4 corners to do one at a time so it will get some usage.

 

 

 

19 hours ago, rum4mo said:

 

I've bought and used 4 of these kits since late 1970s, and yes the weak area is always the car's fluid reservoir cap seal, or at least the Gunsons seal in the correct cap, which, for VW Group cars, there is a choice of seals as that cap fits 2 sizes!  I'm not sure that I ever worked out which seal works best with VW Group cars reservoir - as instructed on the box always fit the kit to the car dry first and pressurise to make sure that there are no air leaks, fluid leaks with normally area once you have started using this kit so smother everywhere with newspapers and paper towelling - always remembering the pln is never to allow brake fluid to get into contact with any paintwork that is on show!  I bodged up a "bought for that purpose" pump up garden sprayer to use as a pressure source, that saves messing around with a tyre.

 

Great advice, thank you, I shall fit it dry, good heads up on the leaking, I shall probably go with the tire as I don't have a good garden spryer, nice hack though 🖕

18 hours ago, J.R. said:

 

I believe that the convention is to use the terms "absolute" and "guage pressure", it is in Engineering anyway.

 

Speaking of which, I was just thinking I need a tire pressure gauge .. Spooky 👻