Oil filler neck - MK I 2004 1.4 16v

[BlueSilver]

Hi,

 

Today I swapped out the last v old coil pack (they're probably the originals and had done 123K!)... to fit the last one I had to remove the pesky oil filler neck. Whilst I managed to remove it, and the new coil pack went in a treat, it now appears a tad broken.

I noticed that a smal bit a metal had snapped off. I'm unable to refit the neck as it's just very loose even when lined up with the location notch. I've attached a shot of the offending item. Is this somehow usable or just junk now?

[rum4mo]

Has the spring steel bit on that side not snapped off and dropped down into the top of the cam chest? Maybe compare that broken end with the filler cap itself.

 

Can you not just fit the filler cap onto where that cranked adaptor was fitted to to close off the cam chest?

 

Edit:- oh, I was wrong, that other spring steel tang is still fitted to the cranked adaptor and is just bent/broken.

Edited 6 June, 2022 by rum4mo

[BlueSilver]

3 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Has the spring steel bit on that side not snapped off and dropped down into the top of the cam chest? Maybe compare that broken end with the filler cap itself.

 

Can you not just fit the filler cap onto where that cranked adaptor was fitted to to close off the cam chest?

Hi rum4mo

 

I didn't see anything else that had dropped off...the tiny part as shown on the small piece of paper was hanging off so I grabbed it quick! Re fitting the filler cap to cam chest directly, great idea, I'll try that tomorrow but it does look to be slightly too big.

I've looked online and have found this on the bay...just seems a shame I likely cannot re-use my existing filler next as is. Does anyone know why they break like this? And any tips for re-fitting should I find a replacement? Should they just clip back in easily or is there knack to doing it? I'd like to get in back and up and running for later this week if possible, for work etc

 

[Breezy_Pete]

It's a bayonet type fitting, like a light bulb isn't it? Push in and twist through a small angle to lock in?

 

[BlueSilver]

21 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

It's a bayonet type fitting, like a light bulb isn't it? Push in and twist through a small angle to lock in?

 

Hi Pete, that's it mate, good description...just been measuring the OD of the oil cap Vs the filler neck (where they contact the car) and as they're both approx 37mm here's hoping I can just bung the oil cap on the cam cover...and maintain correct pressure!

(If anything you might say it's better than using the filler neck as that's a kind a compromise just to raise the height to same as engine cover).

Anyone tried this on a fabia (ideally 1.4 16v)? There is an old thread about something similar but no sure if that's about this model.

[sepulchrave]

You can just fit the cap to the cam cover, it's how earlier cars with HT leads were.

[BlueSilver]

15 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

You can just fit the cap to the cam cover, it's how earlier cars with HT leads were.

Thanks sepulchrave,

Appreciate the confirmation. Thinking about it now, the item in question is just an extenstion, so it should just "plug/twist in" when I get one...I think the one side broke in the hands of someone else when the spark plugs were changed at sevice time, and I managed to break the other (now weaker) side 🙄

[totoro]

When I got my 1.4 16v it had the cap fitted straight onto the cam cover, that made refilling the oil a bit of a chore with pulling the engine cover off.

 

I bought an extension on eBay from Latvia of all places to make the job easier. It's just push and twist like the cap.

[BlueSilver]

4 hours ago, totoro said:

When I got my 1.4 16v it had the cap fitted straight onto the cam cover, that made refilling the oil a bit of a chore with pulling the engine cover off.

 

I bought an extension on eBay from Latvia of all places to make the job easier. It's just push and twist like the cap.

Thanks totoro

Knowing someone else has done this is very useful. Sad as it sounds, I'm looking forward to trying this because it means the car's back on the road (got work and a hospital appointment within next week). Hopefully engine type (AUB etc) will be irrelevant, can't see it being any different. 

 

I take it the damaged item is only good for the bin now and not fixable? 

 

[Breezy_Pete]

6 minutes ago, BlueSilver said:

I take it the damaged item is only good for the bin now and not fixable? 

 

Yes, compare the photos in some ebay listings for replacements and you'll see that there are bits broken off/ missing on yours which aren't readily repairable.

I wouldn't bother spending money on replacing it if I were in your position.

 

 

[BlueSilver]

15 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

 

Yes, compare the photos in some ebay listings for replacements and you'll see that there are bits broken off/ missing on yours which aren't readily repairable.

I wouldn't bother spending money on replacing it if I were in your position.

 

 

Thanks for input

[BlueSilver]

Went to fit the cap only to find another rubber seal on the floor next to car! Do oil caps only have a single rubber seal? Maybe it's of the internal filler neck...?

[rum4mo]

Yes, the oil cap will have a rubber sealing washer, as will the cranked adaptor - at the same point, where it fitted onto the engine.

 

One other thing, if you ever end up buying a new cranked adaptor, understand that it sort of locks onto the top of the engine, ie there will be a slight locking/latching element on the area that it fixes to, if you have a look at your picture of the broken one, you will see a raised "finger" near the steel tang at the top of the picture, so while it is a bayonet type fitting, that lower end also has a locking/latching bit - not knowing that might have contributed to the original adaptor getting broken, though I'd think its body material will have aged and so hardened with age and that would make it easier to break when being removed.

Edited 7 June, 2022 by rum4mo

[BlueSilver]

58 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Yes, the oil cap will have a rubber sealing washer, as will the cranked adaptor - at the same point, where it fitted onto the engine.

 

One other thing, if you ever end up buying a new cranked adaptor, understand that it sort of locks onto the top of the engine, ie there will be a slight locking/latching element on the area that it fixes to, if you have a look at your picture of the broken one, you will see a raised "finger" near the steel tang at the top of the picture, so while it is a bayonet type fitting, that lower end also has a locking/latching bit - not knowing that might have contributed to the original adaptor getting broken, though I'd think its body material will have aged and so hardened with age and that would make it easier to break when being removed.

 Thanks for this really great info re fitting a new adapter and for your previous input; I've now fitted it and it went on fairly snugly with a nice Germanic click. I drove around to test both it and my new found coil pack and both appear fine.