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Map sensor fault 2.0 cr

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Something that sometimes bears fruit is to look at ebay listings for any given engine code. In this case probably best if they include gearbox too; but there are usually decent photos taken from all directions around the engine, so often can be helpful in finding locations.

As you say though, de-cluttering the engine bay by removing relatively easy things like air pipes and airbox often opens up vastly improved visibility and access.

I'll give ebay a go and let you know if I find anything.

Hi Breezy_Pete,

Don't bother, i've found it, or at least the color codes match :-)
(and it is not at a place where you can see it on a dismantled engine/gearbox, I've tried that EBay path to no avail also).

I'll make pictures and post my journey here later.

Regards,

Loek

Intermediate connector.jpg

OK,

Discaimer: I'm Dutch, thus we drive at the right side, maybe right and left in the story below might be reversed for British use.

The intemediate connector is located on a steel bracket on the start motor.

I moved the airfilter out of the way thinking it was beneath that, but other than bringing light from above that is not very useful.

You can work from below after removing the bottom plate, just as for accessing the MAP sensor (near the aircon pump).

The intermediate connector should be shoved onto a plastic clip that is press fit into the bracket.

The black Bosch thing on the right on the first photo is the start motor, the round thing on the right is the smaller fan.

The connector is mounted horizontally, but on the photo the bottom one goes to the MAP, and the top one goes to th ECU.

Maybe the connector comes off easily, but I guess it is hard to shove back on because another connector directly above sits in the way (from down here I could not see how to get that one out of the way either)

Whoever has worked on this thing decided that two tie ribs would be sufficient.

I hate it when a mechanic does not bring back the stuff as designed,... unless I do it myself, of course ;-)

Anyway you can also see a loose tape and that is where a simmilar end cap should be fitted as on the other side. That cap can split in 2 halfs and clip back on very easily.
I'll add some extra pictures of that too.the intermediat

The second photo shows the culprit, when in state of photo 1 the strands might or might not touch each other, now you can clearly see it is broken.

(if you look closely you see that I have ruined the locking by to much force with a screwdriver on the wrong side, is is also old and brittle plastic after 10 years)
The ribbed harness of behind the connector to the ECU can split open, so you can create some extra slack to work with.

I stripped and tinned a piece of lead and soldered them together. I know soldering is really a bad habit for automotive wiring, but I do not have the right crimp tools and managed to pack it strain free against the connector.
For now it is OK (all flashing dashboard lights and limp mode stays away, Yeah!!), and if I can find the right connectors I'll replace it when I have the time and nice weather.

I also mounted the intermediate connector back with tie ribs, but now sturdy against the connector above, see the third Photo.

So to wrap up: If you ever have a MAP sensor error.

1 Try to read out the system with a CAN bus dongle, if the error is intermitting big chance it is the cable, not the sensor.

2 It is easier to just replace the sensor, they are not expensive

3 It is not very easy but with a multimeter you can check between the MAP sensor and Intermediate sensor, I have not found a partnumber or harness on the Internet.

4 to access the connector at the ECU is doable but clumsy: remove the rubber strip at the windshield side, you can lift the plastic shield just enough to get to the ECU. The 94 pole connector is the back one and it is harnessed to a thinner cable that runs to the left. The thick and thin cable are attached to clips that you have to loosen to be abele to bring the 94p connector to the front.
But the access these you have to remove the ECU bracket that is fastened with two 10mm nuts. The round part of the connector can be detached to access the required leads.

A complete harness that contains the 94 pole connector and the intermediate costs around 450 Euros, and it must be a pain to install.

If you encounter the same problems as I had, please do not hesitate to reach out.

Cheers!

Loek

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