Hi there

My lock on the drivers door just spins round. Has anyone out there removed their internal door panel and, if so, how do you go about it.

Fred

:confused:

Unclip the trim cover from the base of the window winder handle remove screw then remove handle.

Unscrew the locking button from the top of the operating rod.

Pull back the inner door handle and unclip the trim cover.

Remove inner door handle by undoing retaining screws.

Remove trim cap from square fixing stud, undo retaining screw.

Carefully unclip the main trim panel starting from a bottom corner using a blunt screwdriver or something similar.

Unfasten any wiring harness as it becomes accessible.

note: not all Felicias are the same and they may be some differences to this.

Refitting is the reverse of the above.

A broken plastic operating rod clip or part of the lock casting breaking is usually the cause for a spinning door lock

Thanks Bobob

Got it off without breaking anything. Need to order a new lock now.

Cheers

Fred

There's one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SKODA-FELICIA-DOOR-BARRELL-AND-2-KEYS_W0QQitemZ4645572274QQcategoryZ100919QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

i fixed mine at no cost

Thanks Bobob - but I got outbid at the last minute. I can get one from the local dealer for not much more than the Ebay price. Cheers.

dont need a new door lock mate

get hold of the plastic bit that i know has snapped off. use a curtain screw eye hole thing (you know what i mean?) screw the thread into the dropped end of the plastic, then with pliers cramp the other around the lug for the door lock

voila 10mins .... cost ?? 1p?

All sorted. New lock is in, panel and fittings are all back on. Thanks for all the advice.

Fred

Woo-hoo - managed to get my door trim, etc off and now can't find the problem - but thanks for this forum thread - it helped loads... off to garage to find out what the broken off bit of metal is, then hopefully get it fixed...

If it's the facelift Felicia there are two little metal lugs on the back of the lock that move the operating lever up and down, one has broken off on my car so i can only unlock but not lock. I've just got a second hand one off ebay (when it comes), hopefully i can change the inards over and continue using my original key.

> Unclip the trim cover from the base of the window winder handle remove screw then remove handle.

What do you mean - it doesnt have a clip??

> Unclip the trim cover from the base of the window winder handle remove screw then remove handle.

What do you mean - it doesnt have a clip??

I use a small thin flat bladed jewellers screwdriver. There is a bit of trim over the winder handle where the screw is. There should be a noticeable line. Insert the flat small screwdriver and with any luck it will pop off. Same for the handle trim covers. Once you get the hang of ii it will only take you a second to pop them off

Not clips as such, but 3 plastic lugs hold the cover clipped on to the winder handle (see photo)

The Haynes manual explains this kind of job easily, worth catching one on ebay for about

my 2cents - post facelift locks are very different to pre-facelift.

also, the lock WILL fit through the door (inbound and outbound) with the rod attached, it just takes a bit of jiggery-pokery. Don't struggle around trying to reattach the rod in situ inside the door (like i did this afternoon) it will drive you nuts.. It's much easier to attach the bottom end of the rod inside the door.

Disconnecting the bottom end of the rod is done with two screwdrivers, one to hold down the metal lug and the other (longer) to lever the rod and its plastic bit up away from the metal, using the door metal as a fulcrum.

also the anti-theft guard can be removed without removing the window supports etc, also needs a bit of jiggery-pokery.

hehe, yes, it's a fun game refitting the rod and anti-theft guard the first time you try it, after you've done it 2 or 3 times it's a piece of pi$$

Very long, long nosed pliers and a door panel removal tool/pigs foot are what i use.

There are some facelift locks on ebay at the mo if anyone is interested.

Item No: 250228523027

look closely at those locks - i reckon they're pre-facelift, at least they look like the pre-facelift ones i got from the scrapper and not like the ones on my post-facelift car.

Also NB the seller doesn't have the boot lock available, I asked. So maybe it ain't a one key solution...

The door lock doesn't look like my facelift lock:eek:

I don't have that series of holes running along the barrel.

If anybody is interested in these, (they don't come up very often) i'd suggest they ask for better pictures.

they do however look exactly like the ones i removed from a pre-facelift car the other day, that series of holes running along the barrel is a giveaway, also the black plastic trim round the key hole is smaller on the older ones, also the key slot is smaller, the post facelift keys being the bigger oblong type.

So I finally got the doors back together, theft guards and all! and whilst ferreting around in my doors what should I stumble upon but some bundles of wires, and what's this.. central locking actuators hidden away at the bottom of the doors!.. I didn't even know I had central locking! - a quick trip to the fuse box and lo and behold the CL fuse is blown, swaps in a spare one and WOW suddenly I've got functional central locking.. RESULT!

lets hope it lasts for a while and there's not a fuse-blowing fault somewhere...