Spoiler

 

Spoiler

 

Ok, someone please put me out of my misery...

 

2010 Superb 3T door loom failed at 120k mi. Got the repair kit from the internet. Installed (what a faff). Did I install it correctly? Maybe - maybe not, but...

 

Things that seem ok:

 

OK1) Multimeters reads 12v coming from the red/brown loom wires to the black controller box behind the panel (sat above the driver's winder mech). 

OK2) The driver's window winds down using the driver's door console*.

OK3) Both the main and the tweeter speakers work (I'd go mad if these didn't work and just scrap the car...)

OK4) The airbag light doesn't come on, so I presume the side impact senior is happy.

OK5) All underside door courtesy lights work when doors open (Driver's door shows 12v when the door latch is open, then when I operate the latch to a close position, it reads 8v)

OK6) No fault codes on the MFD or the OBDII reader

OK7) The door security led flashes, constantly. Locked or unlocked, IGN on/off. 

OK8) all fuses in the driver's side panel seem good. 

 

Things that are not ok:

NOK1) Both O/S doors do not lock

NOK2) Whilst the O/S/F window operates using the O/S/F door console, none of the other console features work, including any other windows, the rear window parent lock or mirror adjust, heat or fold-in functions. The windows and mirrors also do not open/close when long pressing the key fob open/close buttons. The OSR console also doesn't operate its own window. BUT, both NS door consoles can operate their own windows. 

NOK3) The car thinks both O/S doors are permanently closed, as evidenced by the lack of interior lights when entering and the MFD image. I can drive with the driver's door open and it doesn't bing at me. 

NOK4) The driver's door unlock button in the tweeter doesn't work. The auto-lock (Johannesburg-mode) clicks and locks the doors and boot (and presumably fuel flap) when I set off and drive over ~10-15 kph. If I drop beneath that speed and accelerate again over 10-15, those doors try to lock themselves again. This is constant when pulsing speed in traffic. I presume it thinks the drivers door is closed, but because it doesn't know if it's really locked, it trust to lock all of them all the time when setting off. Which is strange, because the driver door securoty led constantly flashes as if it is locked/alarm armed. The NSF tweeter door lock button locks the NS, boot and fuel flap ok. 

 

* In desperation and inspite of it being a 'D' and not a 'C' model, I've just tried installing a salvaged OSF door control module. Ok, I admit I bought the wrong one from as it was from different VAG model, but I gave it a go. Before I plugged this in, both O/S windows couldn't be activated by either OS console.  When I plugged this 'D' model in, using the driver's door console, I pressed the NSF window down and the bloody OFS window went down and had 12v. I was happy to see the OSF motor still works and assumed that it was due to the wrong console being installed. So I reinstalled the original module and now the OSF console/window has sprung back into to life!

 

Can anyone please save my sanity?

 

 

The airbag light is now on.

 

OSF window now operates up and down, but not 'single touch' up or down. 

11 hours ago, 2thin2swim said:

 

 

OSF window now operates up and down, but not 'single touch' up or down. 

 

This one is fairly common when the battery is disconnected.  Roll the window fully up and hold the button for a second. Roll it back down and hold the button.  Then repeat once.  It'll re-learn its endstops and the one touch will work again.

 

Can't help with the other stuff, sorry.

 

I think, and someone may confirm, that the drivers door has the master module and the other doors have slave modules.  So if the wiring to the master module is dodgy, then the slaves will be affected.  I may be totally wrong with this (it could be the front doors are masters for the rear doors).

 

A VCDS scan might reveal what is going on, or at least what is not communicating.

Seems most likely to me that you've got a couple of wires swapped compared to the original loom. 

 

Might be a case of measuring connectivity between main door connector and each of the destination connectors to try to find what's not right.

 

I'll try to give you some pointers on this later.

I am trying to follow all of what you are saying, do I have it correct that you have replaced the loom?

 

And then when that didn't work you changed some door control modules?

If this is the case, do you have what part numbers did you fit, as you mentioned you had a "D" part and fitted a "C" part now?

 

And finally did you adjust any coding of the door modules, or just fit?

19 hours ago, 2thin2swim said:

Got the repair kit from the internet.

 

I think something like this is what was being referred to: skoda door loom repair: Search Result | eBay

20 hours ago, 2thin2swim said:

  Reveal hidden contents

 

  Reveal hidden contents

 

Ok, someone please put me out of my misery...

 

2010 Superb 3T door loom failed at 120k mi. Got the repair kit from the internet. Installed (what a faff). Did I install it correctly? Maybe - maybe not, but...

 

Things that seem ok:

 

OK1) Multimeters reads 12v coming from the red/brown loom wires to the black controller box behind the panel (sat above the driver's winder mech). 

OK2) The driver's window winds down using the driver's door console*.

OK3) Both the main and the tweeter speakers work (I'd go mad if these didn't work and just scrap the car...)

OK4) The airbag light doesn't come on, so I presume the side impact senior is happy.

OK5) All underside door courtesy lights work when doors open (Driver's door shows 12v when the door latch is open, then when I operate the latch to a close position, it reads 8v)

OK6) No fault codes on the MFD or the OBDII reader

OK7) The door security led flashes, constantly. Locked or unlocked, IGN on/off. 

OK8) all fuses in the driver's side panel seem good. 

 

Things that are not ok:

NOK1) Both O/S doors do not lock

NOK2) Whilst the O/S/F window operates using the O/S/F door console, none of the other console features work, including any other windows, the rear window parent lock or mirror adjust, heat or fold-in functions. The windows and mirrors also do not open/close when long pressing the key fob open/close buttons. The OSR console also doesn't operate its own window. BUT, both NS door consoles can operate their own windows. 

NOK3) The car thinks both O/S doors are permanently closed, as evidenced by the lack of interior lights when entering and the MFD image. I can drive with the driver's door open and it doesn't bing at me. 

NOK4) The driver's door unlock button in the tweeter doesn't work. The auto-lock (Johannesburg-mode) clicks and locks the doors and boot (and presumably fuel flap) when I set off and drive over ~10-15 kph. If I drop beneath that speed and accelerate again over 10-15, those doors try to lock themselves again. This is constant when pulsing speed in traffic. I presume it thinks the drivers door is closed, but because it doesn't know if it's really locked, it trust to lock all of them all the time when setting off. Which is strange, because the driver door securoty led constantly flashes as if it is locked/alarm armed. The NSF tweeter door lock button locks the NS, boot and fuel flap ok. 

 

* In desperation and inspite of it being a 'D' and not a 'C' model, I've just tried installing a salvaged OSF door control module. Ok, I admit I bought the wrong one from as it was from different VAG model, but I gave it a go. Before I plugged this in, both O/S windows couldn't be activated by either OS console.  When I plugged this 'D' model in, using the driver's door console, I pressed the NSF window down and the bloody OFS window went down and had 12v. I was happy to see the OSF motor still works and assumed that it was due to the wrong console being installed. So I reinstalled the original module and now the OSF console/window has sprung back into to life!

 

Can anyone please save my sanity?

 

 

Re point OK7, shouldn't that be a NOT OK? - the red LED should only flash when car is locked and alarmed.  

4 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

Re point OK7, shouldn't that be a NOT OK? - the red LED should only flash when car is locked and alarmed.  

Well, yes. But I'm saying it's got power and works. I just thinks it's locked. Maybe that's the wire mix up in the loom. 

 

Sod it, I'm buying a new loom. Any UK suppliers for less than £170?

The potential to become unstuck might have been as your 2010 which should be MY11, has 2 VIN ranges that affects the cable supplied (1U-B-000 001 or 1Z-B-000 001)

Get a quote from a main dealer, from what I see the retail price is £106 inc VAT for the door loom.

 

And the odds are you can get it cheaper than this.

The only way to know is to supply a VIN and get it decoded.

Ooooh. Which dealer offers that price? I tend to find dealers only offers door plates, boot guards and service items...

 

Thanks for everyone's help so far, btw. Lovely bunch!

Have you read the loom part number off its label? What is it?

If you supply a VIN, then this could allow the tracing of what loom to buy.

 

Or as Pete has just mentioned, it should be on a sticker like seen below.

Loving the username by the way. 😁

 

Some rough ideas of prices here: LLLParts

No idea why things get twice as expensive from 01/04/2010! 

@2thin2swim I was rather distracted with a phone call, the part that most likely fits (and might still be on the loom you removed)

3T2 971 120 CE for cars with 8 speakers, no KESSY and no upgraded speakers

 

Need the label off your old, or VIN to make sure.

Dealer price is £171.70 inc VAT

 

But maybe with the old loom off and a wiring diagram you might be able to solder up and fix the loom?

19 minutes ago, varooom said:

If you supply a VIN, then this could allow the tracing of what loom to buy.

 

Or as Pete has just mentioned, it should be on a sticker like seen below.

Loom number is 3t2971120CC (but another thread on here suggests that the 'CE' suffix is the updated part number to get)

 

 

25 minutes ago, varooom said:

If you supply a VIN, then this could allow the tracing of what loom to buy.

 

Or as Pete has just mentioned, it should be on a sticker like seen below.

 

3 minutes ago, 2thin2swim said:

Loom number is 3t2971120CC (but another thread on here suggests that the 'CE' suffix is the updated part number to get)

Can you confirm if that is 3T2 971 120CC or 3T1 971 120CC?

From my OBDII reader...

3 minutes ago, varooom said:

Can you confirm if that is 3T2 971 120CC or 3T1 971 120CC?

Defo 3T2...

6 minutes ago, 2thin2swim said:

Defo 3T2...

 

Well no wonder why you are having trouble, that loom doesn't officially exist!

Only 3T1 does, so maybe a typo on the label printing (easy with human error)

 

I will try to take your VIN to check (takes time)

It's great to find out I'm wrong and not insane. Thanks!

For reference, this should be what you can base your searches upon (needs VIN verification to be 100%)

 

Rather expensive (extra price will be because of "sound system")

Hold off ordering, as maybe better to repair naff wires unless your plugs are crusty?

And of course need to verify this is part number needed.

3t1 part number would be for a LHD car, no?

10 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

3t1 part number would be for a LHD car, no?

And 3T2 rhd?