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Skoda Felicia 1.6 litre AEE engine oil amount with filter when changing engine oil ?


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4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

You mean 3.5 litre of oil for changing oil only..... or the oil and oil filter together ?

 

4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

You mean 3.5 litre of oil for changing oil only..... or the oil and oil filter together ?

 

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3.5 ltr with filter, the oil stick will tell you exactly because in every oil change some remains inside the motor. The mechanic or the employee will fill about 3 ltr then he will ask tou to make a start-turn off (the motor will suck a bit) and then will add exactly the quantity that is needed. For example my Felicia in theory needs 4,5 ltr but practically takes 4,3 ltr.

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No matter how you make the oil change some will remain inside, the same thing happens with coolant, the same with gear oil.

3,5 ltr is what Skoda suggests, there is no gain if you put 4 ltr (will cause you problems) and don't be surprised if finally it takes 3,4 ltr.

My Felicia takes 4,5 ltr, i can put 5 ltr but this IS NOT good, in my latest change took 4,3 ltr (with new filter installed)

 

https://oil-change.info/skoda-felicia-engine-oil-capacity/

 

https://cararac.com/engine_oil/skoda/felicia.html

 

https://www.whichoil.info/skoda/felicia-1-6

 

Drain as much oil as you can, put the new filter, add 3 litres of oil, turn on-off the engine to soak some oil into the filter, check the oil stick, add oil carefully to the Max, it make take 3,3 or 3,4 or 3,5 ltr.

 

 

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58 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

No matter how you make the oil change some will remain inside, the same thing happens with coolant, the same with gear oil.

3,5 ltr is what Skoda suggests, there is no gain if you put 4 ltr (will cause you problems) and don't be surprised if finally it takes 3,4 ltr.

My Felicia takes 4,5 ltr, i can put 5 ltr but this IS NOT good, in my latest change took 4,3 ltr (with new filter installed)

 

https://oil-change.info/skoda-felicia-engine-oil-capacity/

 

https://cararac.com/engine_oil/skoda/felicia.html

 

https://www.whichoil.info/skoda/felicia-1-6

 

Drain as much oil as you can, put the new filter, add 3 litres of oil, turn on-off the engine to soak some oil into the filter, check the oil stick, add oil carefully to the Max, it make take 3,3 or 3,4 or 3,5 ltr.

 

 

You mean maximum is 3.5 litres of oil for the oil and filter change for the 1.6 AEE engine.....

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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

2 hours ago, Mustafa_Samir said:

You mean no more than 3.5 litres for engine oil and filter change for the 1.6 AEE ??

Unless things are different where you are to here, or you already have some oil in stock, you will be buy a 4 or 5 litres bottle or four 1-litre bottles so you will have more than enough.  If you do a poor job of the oil change you may only use 2 litres plus of oil.

 

How much you get in depends on how much you take out - the usual quick cold drain usually gets less old contaminated oil and muck out of the engine.  So less fresh new clean oil goes back in.  And the effects of the fresh new oil are diluted some what by the residue of old contaminated oil and muck left in the engine from the quick cold drain.

 

If you drain the engine oil when it is hot and leave it to drain longer then more of the old contaminated oil and muck will drain out of the engine.  This way more fresh new clean oil goes back in and its effects are not so diluted by the smaller amount of residue old contaminated oil and muck left in the engine.  There will always be some old contaminated oil and muck left in, you want that to be as little as possible and practical.  

 

Leave the oil filler cap off to help with draining too.  Towards the end of draining the old oil and muck tip in to the engine a little fresh new oil, that has been warmed, to act as a little flushing and let that drain out fully too.

 

When refilling with fresh new oil fill in stages, better to underfill and top up once, twice or more than to overfill.  Check again after you have driven the car and top up again if required, do not overfill.

 

Same principles apply for changing gearbox oil.

 

The thoroughness of the oil change can be as important as the frequency/regularity/timeliness especially when using oils that meet the specifications and no more.

 

Edited by nta16
ETA: Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.
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10 hours ago, nta16 said:

The thoroughness of the oil change can be as important as the frequency/regularity/timeliness especially when using oils that meet the specifications and no more.

 

Me and @Mustafa_Samir are the same, we don't have english as first languagge so we don't understand ''complex'' meanings  ;)

and i think some memebers from Middle East use Google Translation to write here in english.

It's not bad, would do the same if i was trying to write in a Czech forum for Felicia.

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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Good point.  But my English is not that good either. 😄

 

The thoroughness - [care and attention to detail]

 

of the oil change can be as important as the frequency/regularity/timeliness - [how often / how regularly / when required, not left for later]

 

especially when using oils that meet the specifications and no more. - [oils that are good enough to meet the minimum specification but do not offer additional protection and stay within specification under more heat or cold, and for longer]

 

Hope that helps.

 

Edited by nta16
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17 hours ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Good point.  But my English is not that good either. 😄

 

The thoroughness - [care and attention to detail]

 

of the oil change can be as important as the frequency/regularity/timeliness - [how often / how regularly / when required, not left for later]

 

especially when using oils that meet the specifications and no more. - [oils that are good enough to meet the minimum specification but do not offer additional protection and stay within specification under more heat or cold, and for longer]

 

Hope that helps.

 

i always change the oil filter with every oil change which is every 12 months,

Sadly for about 2 oil changes i put 4 litres of oil in the engine bec. i see in many websites and manuals written that for the Skoda Felicia 1.6 AEE  ( Filter capacity ) is 0.5 litres and the ( Capacity ) is 3.5 litres, So i think that the ( Capacity ) means the amount of oil the engine needed without the filter so i add the two numbers ( filter 0.5 litres and capacity 3.5 litres) so they are 4 litres and i dont know that the ( Capacity ) means the amount of oil the engine needed with changing the filter. 

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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

5 hours ago, Mustafa_Samir said:

i always change the oil filter with every oil change

Another good point, yes you want to change the oil filter too.

 

 

5 hours ago, Mustafa_Samir said:

which is every 12 months

The 12 months, or mileage or kilometers travelled, is just a convenient measure of how regularly you could change the engine oil and filter but it does depend on the use the vehicle gets -  if it does lots of short journeys, lots of slow city driving, regular use in very hot or very cold weather, lots of lower speed driving, lots of dust and mud, towing or the car is regularly heavily loaded - then you will need to change the engine oil and filter, and other servicing requirements on the car, more often than every twelve months.

 

  

5 hours ago, Mustafa_Samir said:

Sadly for about 2 oil changes i put 4 litres of oil in the engine bec. i see in many websites and manuals written that for the Skoda Felicia 1.6 AEE  ( Filter capacity ) is 0.5 litres and the ( Capacity ) is 3.5 litres, So i think that the ( Capacity ) means the amount of oil the engine needed without the filter so i add the two numbers ( filter 0.5 litres and capacity 3.5 litres) so they are 4 litres and i dont know that the ( Capacity ) means the amount of oil the engine needed with changing the filter. 

This is an understandable mistake to make, plus as put before it depends how much old oil was left in at the change and how accurate the 3.5l fill capacity is.  This is also why I put to fill in stages so as not to overfill and you that you might need to top up once, twice or more, at each point you check the level on the dip stick allowing time for the oil to drain into the sump where the dipstick measures from.  Better to slightly underfill as you can always top up a bit more and I check again the next day and/or after I have driven the car and top up again if required.

 

Your Owner's Manual (Driver's Handbook) will tell you how best to measure the oil on the dipstick to get the oil to(or just under) the maximum mark on the dipstick - obviously it needs to be the original or correct dipstick for the engine.

 

Following the instructions in your Owner's Manual (Driver's Handbook) what is the oil level on your dipstick now?

 

Edited by nta16
ETA:
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9 hours ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Another good point, yes you want to change the oil filter too.

 

 

The 12 months, or mileage or kilometers travelled, is just a convenient measure of how regularly you could change the engine oil and filter but it does depend on the use the vehicle gets -  if it does lots of short journeys, lots of slow city driving, regular use in very hot or very cold weather, lots of lower speed driving, lots of dust and mud, towing or the car is regularly heavily loaded - then you will need to change the engine oil and filter, and other servicing requirements on the car, more often than every twelve months.

 

  

This is an understandable mistake to make, plus as put before it depends how much old oil was left in at the change and how accurate the 3.5l fill capacity is.  This is also why I put to fill in stages so as not to overfill and you that you might need to top up once, twice or more, at each point you check the level on the dip stick allowing time for the oil to drain into the sump where the dipstick measures from.  Better to slightly underfill as you can always top up a bit more and I check again the next day and/or after I have driven the car and top up again if required.

 

Your Owner's Manual (Driver's Handbook) will tell you how best to measure the oil on the dipstick to get the oil to(or just under) the maximum mark on the dipstick - obviously it needs to be the original or correct dipstick for the engine.

 

Following the instructions in your Owner's Manual (Driver's Handbook) what is the oil level on your dipstick now?

 

Well i change it every 12 months bec. i dont use my car every day, i use it about twice per week, So i drive about 5000 km per year maximum

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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Short journeys and low km is usually more wearing than longer journeys and higher km.  Driving at say a constant about 100kph in top gear with very little need of braking and accelerating for a longer distance on a motorway/highway will be less wearing on the engine and other components and systems than a short journey and certainly usually city/town stop and go driving.  Some say you can multiply city/town stop and go driving by ten to equate to motorway/highway mileage (kilometers).

 

At 5,000km (3,000 miles) I think you certainly want to be changing the engine oil and filter every 12 months, and personally I would be using good quality engine oil and filter for the changes and do them as I described in my earlier post.

 

Also bear in mind the engine is one of the less important items on a car, brakes, steering, suspension, (all three include tyres) safety electrics (lights, wipers, blower motor, etc.).  Modern tyres particularly still ages and wear even on ultra low or no mileage particularly if the car is keep outside exposed to the sun and weather.  My neighbour's car now does only a few hundreds of miles a year (3-400 km/year) and in 3 years there were cracks inside the tread of the new tyres, the treads were of course barely worn at all.

 

Edited by nta16
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8 hours ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Short journeys and low km is usually more wearing than longer journeys and higher km.  Driving at say a constant about 100kph in top gear with very little need of braking and accelerating for a longer distance on a motorway/highway will be less wearing on the engine and other components and systems than a short journey and certainly usually city/town stop and go driving.  Some say you can multiply city/town stop and go driving by ten to equate to motorway/highway mileage (kilometers).

 

At 5,000km (3,000 miles) I think you certainly want to be changing the engine oil and filter every 12 months, and personally I would be using good quality engine oil and filter for the changes and do them as I described in my earlier post.

 

Also bear in mind the engine is one of the less important items on a car, brakes, steering, suspension, (all three include tyres) safety electrics (lights, wipers, blower motor, etc.).  Modern tyres particularly still ages and wear even on ultra low or no mileage particularly if the car is keep outside exposed to the sun and weather.  My neighbour's car now does only a few hundreds of miles a year (3-400 km/year) and in 3 years there were cracks inside the tread of the new tyres, the treads were of course barely worn at all.

 

Dont worry man, in normal i dont use my car in the crowded traffic times in the streets, most of the time i use it twice or 3 times per week at midnight for Joy Ride purpose only so there is no crowded traffic and rarely i use it in crowded traffic in the afternoon, i always use Bus for my daily tranportation or work. 

i always use High Quality oem parts, I treat my car very well

I use for the engine oil Mannol Defender 10w40 semi synthetic and Oil Filter i use Mann W 712/52 or Hengst H90W17

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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

For the once a year if you are in a country that gets really hot (and cold) I would pay the bit extra and go full synthetic oil for its extra performance and protection should anything else go wrong with the engine, I would always sooner drive the car home carefully than have to call out a breakdown service or be messing about with the car at the roadside (done both enough to last me two lifetimes).

 

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I live in Alexandria, Egypt

the temperature all year round is between 10°C and 30°C   ( lowest temp in Winter is 10°C and highest temp in Summer is 30°C )

I use the Mannol Defender 10w40 semi synthetic engine oil for about 2 years now and it is doing great with my car.

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9 hours ago, Mustafa_Samir said:

I live in Alexandria, Egypt

the temperature all year round is between 10°C and 30°C   ( lowest temp in Winter is 10°C and highest temp in Summer is 30°C )

 

''Iskandar"

I also use 10W40 engine oil here in Greece but you are using for Coolant?

What mixture 50-50 or 60-40 or 70-30?

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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

11 hours ago, Mustafa_Samir said:

I live in Alexandria, Egypt

the temperature all year round is between 10°C and 30°C   ( lowest temp in Winter is 10°C and highest temp in Summer is 30°C )

I use the Mannol Defender 10w40 semi synthetic engine oil for about 2 years now and it is doing great with my car.

In that case stick with it.

 

Our very local weather station reports that in the last 12 months the air temperature has been -5°C (but it does go lower most years) to 40°C but that was a record, 40.2°C IIRC second highest temperature ever recorded in the UK, usually highest we would get would be high 20s to low 30s.

 

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13 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

''Iskandar"

I also use 10W40 engine oil here in Greece but you are using for Coolant?

What mixture 50-50 or 60-40 or 70-30?

It is Alexandria a city in Egypt not ''Iskandar''

Anyways i use 10% IAT coolant (inorganic acid technology) for an european brand named IADA it is green coolant ''Ready to Use'' so it doesn't bother me to mix it with distilled water and its boiling point is 105°C

I've been using it for three years now it is doing good with my car, Anyways the weather here doesn't freeze and i flush the cooling system, clean and change the coolant every 12 months.

 

That is the link of the website of the coolant i use IADA   https://www.iada.es/en/home/

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9 minutes ago, Mustafa_Samir said:

It is Alexandria a city in Egypt not ''Iskandar''

Anyways i use 10% IAT coolant (inorganic acid technology) for an european brand named IADA it is green coolant ''Ready to Use'' so it doesn't bother me to mix it with distilled water and its boiling point is 105°C

I've been using it for three years now it is doing good with my car, Anyways the weather here doesn't freeze and i flush the cooling system, clean and change the coolant every 12 months.

 

That is the link of the website of the coolant i use IADA   https://www.iada.es/en/home/

 

That's the Coolant i use but the green one.

https://www.iada.es/en/product/c-c-10-2/

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11 hours ago, Mustafa_Samir said:

It is Alexandria a city in Egypt not ''Iskandar''

 

I know because Greeks named that city as did in hundreds of others in the area.

Alexander the Great is Iskandar in Middle East right?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iskandar

Alexandria in Greek is Αλεξανδρεια which means ''the city which named by Alexander", the same applies for example to Antiochia (named by the Greek Antiochos) etc.

 

11 hours ago, Mustafa_Samir said:

an european brand named IADA it is green coolant

 

This brand can be found here in Greece since 2000 but it's not too famous

https://www.yiannitsaros.com/product/anti-freeze-5l-green/

 

In the green says TL 774-G (G-11) ,there must be a mistake it's TL 774-C

https://www.iada.es/en/product/glycogel-hybrid-50-g-11-2/

 

Few years ego i was using another Spanish brand Repsol G11, fantactic but difficult to find it here now.

 

 

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