What is your climbing performance with your Favorit / Felicia car?

 

- The story:

You see the road in front of you is an ascend. The road sign shows %10. You are peacefully climbing on the right most/left most (UK) lane. A truck shows up right behind you. Looks like one of the new 500Hp+ V8s. The driver keeps flashing their lights and starts to follow dangerously close.

He is like: "Come on dude move! I'm a truck remember? I can't overtake! I'm moving moving stuff for some big a** company so I'm on a tight schedule!"

 

The trucks have to carry a data recorder on board by the law so they can't pass 90Km/h (56Mph) limit at any time but this doesn't mean they can't push 90Km/h on hills.

 

- So how is your car's climbing performance? (Loaded or unloaded?)

- How much power needed for a Fel./Fav. car to keep 56Mph at a %10 incline?

 

I'm trying to assess engine condition. With a loaded car, (total weight around 1250Kg) anything more than a slight incline, I'm forced to drop to 4th. If the rev. is high enough to catch 3000, I can keep 80Km/h at full throttle but sometimes it's not enough to keep up with the "slow" lane.

Edited 2 December, 20223 yr by R_Blue

Well its easy to assess if you have a favorit lets assume the car has a mass of 1000kg with you.
Times g ~10.000N 
10% Incline is invtan(1/10)=5.71deg
Now tan(5.71)=(Fdrag/Weight)=999N or ~99kg sooo the approximate equivalent weight of the car is 1100kg 
Assuming 58hp it should give a 0-100 time of 18.2sec some 3 seconds slower than the 15 the favorit should achive.
Thus 2 0-100 timed runs (one on a flat road the other on the incline) should let you know how much power has been lost.
For example 10HP less will yield 22sec on the incline and 19.9secs on the flat road

Edited 3 December, 20223 yr by Thefeliciahacker

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Bear in mind the engine probably won't be the only thing worn and less efficient than new on a 29 year old car.

 

Obviously there are other considerations to this, tyres all at correct pressure, whole car (not just engine) fully service/maintained/ repaired, brakes and exhaust free, any unnecessary load (spares and heavy tools carried "just in case" and never used), empty roof boxes carried, empty bike racks, etc., etc..

 

How long the 10% climb is, wind direction, ect., etc..

 

I don't know the gearing of your car but wonder why you are approaching and climbing a 10% in 5th gear if you are likely to have a lorry or van behind you.  Obviously you can go at whatever legal reasonable speed you want but you're helping to keep the bad stereotype of the old Skoda badged cars (I had 3 Estelle's in the 80s so know all about that).

 

I would wondered f you're leaving your gear changing too late to maintain momentum on the inclines, that's what the gearbox is there for.  On a flat road once you have got up to reasonable speed it takes a surprising low hp figure to maintain that speed if the vehicle is in reasonable condition, I'll leave it to @Thefeliciahacker to do the maths (with an S) and come up with a figure.

 

Edited 3 December, 20223 yr by nta16
ETA: correct word

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Unless you go on a rolling road you won't actually know where and what power is at what speeds on your car.

 

Which 10% UK road do you mean I might have been up it but roads like that I prefer to be unclassified and often they're single-track.

 

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Obviously there are other considerations to this, tyres all at correct pressure, whole car (not just engine) fully service/maintained/ repaired, brakes and exhaust free, any unnecessary load (spares and heavy tools carried "just in case" and never used), empty roof boxes carried, empty bike racks, etc., etc..

Obviously not exact but a fairly good ballpark

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

 

I would if you're leaving your gear changing too late to maintain momentum on the inclines, that's what the gearbox is there for.  On a flat road once you have got up to reasonable speed it takes a surprising low hp figure to maintain that speed if the vehicle is in reasonable condition, I'll leave it to @Thefeliciahacker to do the maths (with an S) and come up with a figure.

You asked for it so I DID THEM MATHS
Assuming a 1000KG FELICIA (because i could find the cd) traveling at 100km/h with 165/70/13 street tires @ 3000rpm
Totaldrag = Aero + R.R. = 333N+192N=525N
Diameter of tire wheel is = (13*2.54+2*16.5*0.7)=56cm
Radius = 28cm
Linear velocity of 100km/h equals 947.5 RPM of the wheels
If we have 3000rpm at the engine the total system gearing is G=3000/947.5=3.16:1
Torque applied at the wheels is Tw=525*0.28 = 147Nm
Torque applied at the engine is  Tw/G=46.81Nm @ 3000rpm
That gives as an equivalent HP OFFFF 19.38 HP

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

I don't think you need worry about two decimal places to the power figures. 😄  It was more than I was expecting but I was thinking of whatever the revs are for 56mph in 5th (on the flat) - so @Thefeliciahacker what would the power figure be for that please as you now have the other figures?

 

I've got a spread sheet for rpm to wheel/tyres and gearing (no idea if it includes 3% for rolling circumference) but I've no idea of the car's gearing and would mess up your figures anyway (other than tyre size).

 

Tell me the revs the speed and the effective tyre diameter 

As well as the car if I can find the drag area. 

I was thinking of the same car you did the mathematics for in your previous post, I don't know the revs thought you might, but 56mph (90kph), tyre the same so stick with 28cm radius.

 

Cheers.

 

58 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I was thinking of the same car you did the mathematics for in your previous post, I don't know the revs thought you might, but 56mph (90kph), tyre the same so stick with 28cm radius.

15.5HP @2694 rpm

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Thanks, call it 15hp, at 2,700rpm, more hp than I was expecting, how this relates to a constant 10% incline would be dependant on how long in road distance the car was kept in 5th.

 

4 hours ago, nta16 said:

more hp than I was expecting

felicia aerodynamics arent excellent....

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

I've had small and larger engined British cars that are like bricks the gearing and power are soon eat up, didn't help with power-to-weight when I sat in the car. 😆

Edited 6 December, 20223 yr by nta16
ETA: Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

@Thefeliciahacker You never fail to impress. Thanks for all the valuable technical calculations and data. [insert hats off gif]

I've made basic calculations to achieve a number to begin with but I couldn't find very important data about the car like drag coefficient, gear and final drive ratios. I think the most important data is; engine characteristics chart. I've searched this EVERYWHERE. Finally found it!

 

Here you are:

These below belong to the carburetor engines. I don't think there is a CAT.

I'm familiar to ICE working principals. They had thought us these in the school. (From books of course 😕  )

When you have a 58Hp engine that doesn't mean you are using at all at any time.

My car has a 135 engine. Which is rated 43kW (58hp) @ 5000rpm. Which means you won't get that power unless you hit 5000rpm at any gear.

 

From what I've learned from Czech sources, 135 and 136 has different piston heads. 135 has compression ratio of 8.8. While 136 and 136X has 9.7. Lower compression is only there for low quality low octane gasoline of the old times. Czechs advice all classic Škoda owners to increase their compression ratio, so they can take advantage of the better quality gasoline we have today. You get more power and LOWER fuel consumption at the same time. It's a win-win.

 

136X is a little bit different though. It has a different cam and a different distributor which has a different centrifugal control characteristic. The only difference in carburetor is a different accelerator pump setting.

 

Please note the differences in curves.

135 is the worst engine. It's not efficient like its other siblings. 136 has the best fuel economy but the source says, it could be misleading to compare it with 136X because 136X only installed on gearboxes with the ratio of 4.167. (From the rough translation, I think this is the final drive.) 135 and 136 Favorits have a longer 3.895. All Formans have 4.167. 136X is the most refined engine. It has a more flat torque curve which means a wider range of available max. torque. 136 has a dip point for fuel economy around 2500rpm while 136X has a sweet spot around 3500rpm. 136 is more suited for city driving while 136X is more suited for longer routes.

135 Engine + 4.167 gearbox ratio installed on a Forman is the worst setup you could get.

 

On 03/12/2022 at 17:52, nta16 said:

Bear in mind the engine probably won't be the only thing worn and less efficient than new on a 29 year old car.

 

Obviously there are other considerations to this, tyres all at correct pressure, whole car (not just engine) fully service/maintained/ repaired, brakes and exhaust free, any unnecessary load (spares and heavy tools carried "just in case" and never used), empty roof boxes carried, empty bike racks, etc., etc..

The car has "new" (max. 2 years old) front and rear suspension, bearings, brake elements. Mostly done by me. It passed the MOT brake test with flying colors. You are right about the extra weight though. The LPG tank itself, some tools, spares, etc. but I gave a lot of headroom for them in my original post.

In fact, the only parts left in the car that I didn't touch are inside of the engine and the gearbox. If you are reading my other posts there some oil leaks from the engine and I'm not happy about that. I could attempt a complete engine overhaul but it will cost me. I must replace some synchro gearing too in the gearbox too. Overall the gearbox condition is good but I think 3rd and R synchros are a little worn. I know, it would be economical only if there is oil loss because of burn in the cylinders. I don't want to overhaul otherwise a fine running engine.

 

What I have in my hands is a little bit different from stock. LPG itself creates a mess but I also have a Renault 12 distributor. This was installed on the car when it was with a previous owner. Renault 12 is a much loved car here. (It's older technology and not better but It's more expensive than a Škoda Favorit with same condition!) It was locally produced with a license into the 2000s. There are some locally produced parts still available for R12s. Including the distributor itself.

Please check this out:

Installing this distributor to a Škoda engine is an impromptu solution to much feared ignition failure.  Aftermarket parts produced for Škoda ignition system had proven to be very unreliable. The most important part is the original distributor which is not available anymore.

This one above is produced for 810/847 C1J 1289cc - 1397cc cleon-fonte engine. (Notice the lacking vacuum advance too)

Locals also install these to replace failed Renault 9 ignition systems too which has an advanced Siemens electronic ignition module from factory that is no longer available.

Is it works? Yeah OK. works but how about mechanical advance mechanism characteristics? Either no one knows or cares but I think it's important. I think there is a power loss beyond 3000-3500rpm.

I'm currently trying to fine tune this setup for maximum compatibility and efficiency but without a dyno it's like moving in the dark with just feeling around.

 

With LPG in my current setup, I have good idle. Acceptable fuel economy. Low and mid range feels good. Beyond 3000-3500 range is considered good only if the engine is in the colder area of 70-80ºC range. If it gets up to normal operating range 80-90, the engine feels weaker at high revs. and maybe a little bit more rough. Maybe you could give me a tip starting from here.

 

The reason of whole topic is, I have no one who has a familiar car to let me take their car and run a trial with it. I don't know how a stock 135/136 engine feels like.

Either I ask in text, or record videos to ask for your opinion.

Almost twenty years on forums, I think a forum post should be informative, friendly and also fun and entertaining. I act as how I like to find it. I think I'll record more videos for you to post on the forum. I'm sure it will be more fun than plain text.

 

On 03/12/2022 at 17:52, nta16 said:

I don't know the gearing of your car but wonder why you are approaching and climbing a 10% in 5th gear if you are likely to have a lorry or van behind you.  Obviously you can go at whatever legal reasonable speed you want but you're helping to keep the bad stereotype of the old Skoda badged cars (I had 3 Estelle's in the 80s so know all about that).

 

So you are telling me: "On behalf of the all underestimated classic Škodas, you are carrying the responsibility of showing its true potential" With a table in your hands, raised above your head, "5000+ Go Like Hell"  

 

If I wanted to tell someone about the importance of the shifting, I can't think any way more epic than showing this:

From the great movie, portraying the British racing legend Ken Miles.

 

 

 

59 minutes ago, R_Blue said:

From the great movie, portraying the British racing legend Ken Miles.

In case anyone is at all unclear on this, car 98 (and I think the other Fords) is a 7.0l GT mk2, not a GT40 with a "small block" 4.7l engine.

2 hours ago, R_Blue said:

My car has a 135 engine. Which is rated 43kW (58hp) @ 5000rpm. Which means you won't get that power unless you hit 5000rpm at any gear.

Yes but my calculations showed that for steady state 100kph driving you need 46nm of torque at 3000 rpm. Pretty much half of what your engine can produce at that rpm. So 50%ish percent load per say. 

There should be no issue 

2 hours ago, R_Blue said:

I know, it would be economical only if there is oil loss because of burn in the cylinders. I don't want to overhaul otherwise a fine running engine

Of course no need to overhaul if you get good compression the issue lies elsewhere. 

 

2 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Is it works? Yeah OK. works but how about mechanical advance mechanism characteristics? Either no one knows or cares but I think it's important. I think there is a power loss beyond 3000-3500rpm.

Well, just do a test, keep adding static advance. Since you have lpg knocking shouldnt be an issue, if high speed performance improves you have figured out a part of the issue. 

The faster a piston moves the sooner the mixture has to be ignited to maintain the same peak cylinder pressure. Because the flame propagation speed is pretty much constant. 

2 hours ago, R_Blue said:

With LPG in my current setup, I have good idle. Acceptable fuel economy. Low and mid range feels good. Beyond 3000-3500 range is considered good only if the engine is in the colder area of 70-80ºC range. If it gets up to normal operating range 80-90, the engine feels weaker at high revs. and maybe a little bit more rough. Maybe you could give me a tip starting from here

If it feels good when cold but crap when warm it is running rich. 

But be careful as poor advance will cause a seemingly rich running condition since you are not fully utilising the fuel that enters the chamber. 

In all regards your issues could be put down to poor advance as well as fueling. 

Edited 6 December, 20223 yr by Thefeliciahacker

Redoing my maths 

In the aforementioned incline (10%)

The car travelling at 100kph 

The total load would be 525+1000=1525N 

1525N*0.28m=427Nm at the wheels 

Which roughly translates to 135Nm

At the engine 

More than the engine can produce! 

So you decelerate 

Edited 6 December, 20223 yr by Thefeliciahacker

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

R_Blue I would not put too much faith in figures from, or for, the car when new take them as a very rough guide.  Who knows what has changed on your car since then.  The old rule of thumb for setting up was tappets (valve clearances), circuit breaker points, spark plugs, ignition timing and carb mixture, in that order.

 

I am surprised there is not a Haynes or similar workshop manual that gives gear ratios and I cannot remember my Estelle 2s having synchro on reverse but perhaps later boxes did.  Are you sure the final drive was 4.1 and not 3.9.

 

For manual gearbox you probably already know I suggest checking the oil level and then changing the oil to good quality fully synthetic as it is not usually expensive unless you need many litres of it.  Also check any gear linkage, and operation of clutch hydraulics (cable?) and clutch itself.

 

I do not know the Renault 12 but personally I am all against mechanical distributors with points, the original distributors on the old British cars I had where said to be out mechanically within just a few years of the car leaving the factory so after decades of use and abuse they can be unsteady and for many years in the last couple of decades rotor arms and CB points particularly have been crap. I fitted a fully electronic, top and bottom, distributor I had it 13 years and other than the cleaning/servicing of the rotor arm and dissy cap it was fit and forget and an improvement over the old distributor that I had converted to electronic top.  Mine was a choice of four curves but only the base one was needed and you could later get laptop tuned ones that you could use for non-standard applications, like yours.  Or even now Bluetooth from your phone.

 

Yes get some videos up and take on board what Thefeliciahacker has put, pcv can cause oil issues, faulty or cheap replacement or different plumbing required.

 

No, do not got at 5,000rpm (well not too often and you might not need to go as high as that) use the gears, steering and when suitable brakes play to the car's strengths (it should be) light compared to modern stuff, just do not go too slow, particularly downhill before an uphill. 😄    

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Thefeliciahacker, I have no idea about the maths but the thread has a real life example of the proof of your conclusion. 😄

 

The maximum force the car can pull with 5th gear is 1080N

Given the incline will cause 1000N of the cars weight to be used against it (Wx component) . 

It is sure that no matter what you do the car will decelerate in 5tg gear on that incline. Go fast or go slow the rolling resistance plus the weight are more that the engine can pull. No matter the revs 

Also watch this 1080N-192(rolling resistance) =888N

This 888 will be equaled by drag at 163Kph

Pretty much right on the money of how fast a felly will go. 

Also at such high revolution speed windage losses in the transmission became a real power issue alas the power available decreases. Giving a top speed of 150-155kph.

So my calculations are pretty damn accurate. 

Edited 7 December, 20223 yr by Thefeliciahacker

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

R_Blue, I hope you realise that I was never suggesting scream up the 10% incline at 5,000rpm in any gear let alone 5th.  Again I have no idea about Thefeliciahacker's maths but you give a real life example that proves his conclusion.

 

Generally you need to carry as much momentum, speed, as possible, sensible and appropriate before the incline starts, as with bends and turns you prepare before to take the event as best as possible, sensible and appropriate.  You may be in 4th gear already but what ever gear you need to change down when the engine slows down a bit.  It depends on the incline on the gears that are changed, on a incline that is a regular steepness over a sustained length then you may need more gear changes or if there a sudden steepness you might need to drop two gears missing the intermediate gear, say 4th to 2nd or 5th to 3rd.  The trick is to change gear before the engine steep drops too much, to anticipate the need.  The gearbox is in the car to be used by the driver.  Less powerful or (over) heavy or loaded cars will need more input in these situations than more powerful or lighter or less loaded cars.

 

With regard your opening post the truck driver shouldn't be up your tailpipe and flashing his lights, a camera in the rear window would probably dissuade him but perhaps you should have dropped to 4th earlier or also dropped to 3rd but I do not know the road incline or your gear ratios and speeds.

 

Find your actual gear ratios and I am sure Thefeliciahacker could use his maths skills and knowledge to give you some figures for your model as new (claimed figures).  How long in distance was this 10% incline?

 

Finally I've found what I've been looking for.

Credits goes to @RicardoM for this table below.

 

Of course this table is for Felicia but according to Czech sources, what I currently have in my car is listed here as 136B 10s type gearbox.

From source:

Quote

The 10S: Favorit until 12/1992 had a final drive ratio of 3.895, but as an optional equipment it could have a ratio of 4.167 from 12/1990. From 01/1993 until the end of production, the Favorit was equipped with a 4.167 final drive to improve acceleration. A 4.167 final drive gear was fitted to the Felicia single point 135B, 136B and 135 carburetor. For the 135M the final drive ratio was 3.833 and for the 136M 4.118 (14S 1.6=3.833 and 1.9 3.350 and 3.579). The fifth gear synchronizer is on the drive shaft, the bearings are tapered without sealing and permanent filling. Drain screw is compatible with 19 mm socket wrench.

I've learned where to find and how to read the gearbox identification number. It's a PN4. which means 1993 June production with a final drive of 4.167.

It may be the original gearbox installed from factory. The date fits other parts in the car which I see sometimes while repairs. Especially the markings on the plastic parts are usually dated mid '93.

Of course there is a possibility of overhaul. The gearbox "internals" could be different than the case. This is only a possibility, so from now on, I'll assume the final ratio as 4.167.

Other ratios are:

1st: 3.308.1

2nd: 1.913:1

3rd: 1.267:1

4th: 0.927:1

5th: 0.717:1

R: 2.923:1
 

23 hours ago, nta16 said:

R_Blue, I hope you realise that I was never suggesting scream up the 10% incline at 5,000rpm in any gear let alone 5th. 

Don't worry. I won't. I made it up to make the topic more fun. Maths is everywhere, yet, people get bored in topics with it.

To climb hills faster, what I really need is having the max. torque at a higher rpm. (or a lighter car )

 

Now I have the gear ratio data, with a 90nm torque @ 3000rpm, total force at the wheels:  960N at fifth gear. 1240N at fourth gear and 1697N at third.

 

Now keep that data at hand and please check this good example: This is between 41.216040, 31.951757 and 41.001666, 32.066341.

 

This is one of the main routes to the north. Notorious for winter blockages due to snow, landslides in rain seasons. (I'll upload a video taken around this region recorded in a past winter.)

 

A sight from the road: https://www.google.com/maps/@41.1763789,31.928913,3a,24.7y,169.26h,91.99t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sR5Rl41Azu0TabdwFIylHdw!2e0!7i16384!8i8192!5m1!1e4

 

 

%10 means in reality "up to %10" I sometimes I travel @ 4th 3000rpm and 80Km/h but at some parts I have to downshift to 3rd. Like here:

https://www.google.com/maps/@41.1595398,31.9292878,3a,75y,139.11h,94.25t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sFrpcwE9QBZIL43IkM9UlCw!2e0!7i16384!8i8192!5m1!1e4

But this will slow down the car to 60-65Km/h. I passed this part exactly at this speed.

@Thefeliciahacker  your calculations exactly fits current situation when incline reaches %10.

 

So conclusion is;

Currently I either climb roads like these at either @ 3000 @ 3rd or easier sections with 3000 @ 4th. 3000 @ 3rd gives a speed of: 61.6Km/h. 4th gear @ 3000 = 84.1Km/h.

If the engine was converted to 136 or 136X I would get approximately %10 more torque at 3500+. Being able to get the max torque @ 3500 would give me 71.8Km/h @ 3rd and 98.1Km/h @ 4th. Not bad!

 

On 07/12/2022 at 16:56, nta16 said:

How long in distance was this 10% incline?

At some parts it takes continious 15-20 minutes pedal-to-metal around 3000rpm at 4th gear.

 

On 07/12/2022 at 02:37, nta16 said:

For manual gearbox you probably already know I suggest checking the oil level and then changing the oil to good quality fully synthetic as it is not usually expensive unless you need many litres of it.  Also check any gear linkage, and operation of clutch hydraulics (cable?) and clutch itself.

One of the first things I did when I bought the car was renewing all liquids. I followed factory data and used Castrol EP 80W transmission oil which is a mineral oil. I didn't know about superior 75W-90 fully synthetic oils at that time. 😞  Users say they get better results using 75W-90.

 

On 07/12/2022 at 02:37, nta16 said:

I do not know the Renault 12 but personally I am all against mechanical distributors with points, the original distributors on the old British cars I had where said to be out mechanically within just a few years of the car leaving the factory so after decades of use and abuse they can be unsteady and for many years in the last couple of decades rotor arms and CB points particularly have been crap. I fitted a fully electronic, top and bottom, distributor I had it 13 years and other than the cleaning/servicing of the rotor arm and dissy cap it was fit and forget and an improvement over the old distributor that I had converted to electronic top.  Mine was a choice of four curves but only the base one was needed and you could later get laptop tuned ones that you could use for non-standard applications, like yours.  Or even now Bluetooth from your phone.

 

Unfortunately, Kettering arc distributors have their own issues. I personally experienced some of the issues. I tried to follow very very valuable information and advice from experienced classic car owners like you.

 

I can only wish this one below from Santa:

https://www.classicautoelec.com/en/electronic-ignition-renault/14223-electronic-ignition-programmable-engine-1600-r16tx-ts.html

so I made a custom ignition system to eliminate points related problems. System is still using points as a trigger but spark power is on par with original Favorit ignition. This is not one of the designs from internet. It was a great relief to know the points would stay clean.

 

On 07/12/2022 at 08:26, Thefeliciahacker said:

Pretty much right on the money of how fast a felly will go. 

Also at such high revolution speed windage losses in the transmission became a real power issue alas the power available decreases. Giving a top speed of 150-155kph.

@Thefeliciahacker

I wonder what is your opinion about this one. 50HP and 86Nm. A decline maybe?

 

 

7 hours ago, R_Blue said:

This is only a possibility, so from now on, I'll assume the final ratio as 4.167.

Other ratios are:

1st: 3.308.1

2nd: 1.913:1

3rd: 1.267:1

4th: 0.927:1

5th: 0.717:1

R: 2.923:1

That gives a 5th gear ratio of 2.98:1.

While I had estimated a 3.16:1

4th gear gives a 3.86:1

So let me do the maths. 

The maximum force that the car can pull in 4th gear is 1300N

Rolling resistance + Wx= 1192N

1300-1192=108N of remaining pulling force 

Drag at 84kmh is 235N

So you decelerate 

But drag at 55kmh is approximately 100N so if you are still in the torque band you should equalize right there 

3rd gear gives a ratio of 5.279:1 wayyyyy shorter that 4th so no doubt it pulls with 3rd. 1750N of pulling force meaning you can easily accelerate even. 

7 hours ago, R_Blue said:

At some parts it takes continious 15-20 minutes pedal-to-metal around 3000rpm at 4th gear

I don't think that's really healthy for the engine. Hahaha

Oil is gonna be boiling. 

7 hours ago, R_Blue said:

wonder what is your opinion about this one. 50HP and 86Nm. A decline maybe

All these can be put down to aero and a very slight downhill. 

As proven even very slight inclines have daramtic effects on a car's performance. 

Now I must find somewhere to test these calculations and also to fine tune advance curve.

 

- Somewhere straight to test 0-100.

- A steady incline where the angle doesn't change much.

All should be somewhere safe to not put others in danger.

 

I never tried 0-100 before with any car.

To get results comparable with factory data;

- How much fuel should be in the tank?

- Do they test it with standard equipment on board? (Spare tire, factory provided jack etc.)

 

Is this the proper way to shift? The Felly in this video gets around 14s 0-100Km/h time. Factory data is 13.5 for a AME engine Felly. It's close.

 

 

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I don't think that's really healthy for the engine. Hahaha

Oil is gonna be boiling. 

Really??? A depressing start for a day for me.

I passed that section in the mid summer. At noon. A hot day, that you can see heat waves over the road when looking to horizon. The engine didn't break a sweat. I don't think the radiator fan worked even once. I remember max coolant temp was around 84-85ºC.

The oil can't heat up that much without effecting the coolant temperature right? Also, I should've sensed a power loss because of abnormal expansion and the change in oil viscosity.

If I force the engine on a higher gear with low rpms, (below 2000) I see the temp is slowly but gradually rising and also you can feel the power is diminishing slowly.

 

“Measure what is measurable, and make measurable what is not so”

I think I'll gonna need an oil temp gauge too.

7 hours ago, R_Blue said:

All should be somewhere safe to not put others in danger.

the most important and if it doesnt feel safe abort the test and retry

 

7 hours ago, R_Blue said:

How much fuel should be in the tank?

- Do they test it with standard equipment on board? (Spare tire, factory provided jack etc.)

3/4 ideally but since you have lpg i would try to do it with a fairly empty gas tank in order to accomondate the extra weight

 

7 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Is this the proper way to shift? The Felly in this video gets around 14s 0-100Km/h time.

shift JUST BEFORE THE REV LIMITER

7 hours ago, R_Blue said:

If I force the engine on a higher gear with low rpms, (below 2000) I see the temp is slowly but gradually rising and also you can feel the power is diminishing slowly.

yes because you are putting a lot of heat but slow pump speed means lacking coolant flow

 

7 hours ago, R_Blue said:

The oil can't heat up that much without effecting the coolant temperature right? Also, I should've sensed a power loss because of abnormal expansion and the change in oil viscosity.

not really my alfa brera (which has a oil gauge from the factory and an oil to water heat exchanger) will heat the oil up to 100c IN NORMAL driving conditions, if you drive harder the oil can reach even 120++c the coolant should never, given the felly doesnt have any direct oil cooling except airflow to the pan i would say it can heat up under sustained loads