Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

I did not realise your road was all dual-carriageway I would be very bored with that after a 5 or 10 mile blast I like roads not much wider than a narrow car.

 

I do not know the rounding of numbers in the calculator I have but on your ratios with 165/70/13 tyres it comes out with (if(?) I have input correctly and converted mph to  kph correctly). ETA: the figures in the brackets are from the gear change. -

 

• 3rd - 3,000 / 58 kph - (1,987 / 38 kph)
• 4th - 3,000 / 80 kph - (2,195 / 58 kph)
• 5th - 3,000 / 102 kph - (2,320 / 80 kph)

 

• 3rd - 4,000 / 80 kph - (2,649 / 53 kph)
• 4th - 4,000 / 93 kph - (2,927 / 80 kph)
• 5th - 4,000 / 141 kph - (3094 / 93 kph)

 

• 3rd - 5,000 / 100 kph - (3,312 / 66 kph)
• 4th - 5,000 / 137 kph - (3,658 / 100 kph)
• 5th - 5,000 / 177 kph - (3,867 / 137 kph)

 

If you think of 3,250 -5,000 rpm being the powerband, and it might not be with your car, and if my figures are correct you will see only about 5,000 rpm in 2nd, 3rd and 4th will get you in the band on these figures.  You do not have a racing gearbox or racing gearing so if you drive like that Felica guy you will be putting additional stress and wear on tour engine and transmission.  Same for changing up just before the rev limiter, do you even have a rev limiter other than yourself, is your car capable of being pushed to the 5,000 rpm let alone more without regret.

 

A test on a level empty open road is fine but be sure what your car's limits are first, top fuel dragsters can go to 161 kph in 0.8 second but the engine is completely stripped down and built back up every 1/4 mile (400m) run and the gearbox, clutch and fuel are slightly different and even then they often break.

 

You do not need an oil gauge, you may want one but that is a different matter, it may help you or just give you more to worry about.

 

If the engine is NOT being laboured then 3,000 rpm all day long is fine but if you feel losses it can be because of other than or as well as engine oil, this is why I prefer a good quality oil in an oil car, a synthetic oil will offer more protection and for longer and deal with the heat (and cold) better generally but it can't make up for any engine issues (well perhaps a very little by allowing a limp home rather than roadside stop(s).

 

What is synthetic and what is 'synthetic' as a marketing term is a different matter, but a good oil is a good oil whatever it is or called.

 

For the gearbox with how you are driving the car and want to if you like Castrol this might be a better oil for you, Castrol TRANSMAX Manual Transaxle fully synthetic that's suitable for you but also as with the engine oil change the thotoughness of the change is important.

 

It was the 123ignition fully electronic dissy that I was referring to, I had the basic what they now call "switch", another Renault "switch" might include curves suitable to your car but you would have to enquire and note the LPG. -https://123ignition.com/products/page/2/?filter_brand=renault

 

The cost of it must be considered as spread over time and mileage and the improvements you could get (starting, idling, throughout the rev range, no farting about with points or messing around with timing once properly set).

 

Well that's enough for one night, if you can get a 75w-90 the 90 should be better at high temperatures particular a good 75w-90.

 

Edited 10 December, 20223 yr by nta16
ETA:

4 hours ago, nta16 said:

• 3rd - 3,000 / 58 kph - (1,987 / 38 kph)
• 4th - 3,000 / 80 kph - (2,195 / 58 kph)
• 5th - 3,000 / 102 kph - (2,320 / 80 kph)

 

• 3rd - 4,000 / 80 kph - (2,649 / 53 kph)
• 4th - 4,000 / 93 kph - (2,927 / 80 kph)
• 5th - 4,000 / 141 kph - (3094 / 93 kph)

 

• 3rd - 5,000 / 100 kph - (3,312 / 66 kph)
• 4th - 5,000 / 137 kph - (3,658 / 100 kph)
• 5th - 5,000 / 177 kph - (3,867 / 137 kph)

They seem about right. Very close to what I had calculated 

 

4 hours ago, nta16 said:

if you drive like that Felica guy you will be putting additional stress and wear on tour engine and transmission.  Same for changing up just before the rev limiter, do you even have a rev limiter other than yourself, is your car capable of being pushed to the 5,000 rpm let alone more without regret.

I have to disagree, @R_Bluedoesn't have to launch the car, he can let it roll on first gear idle and mash the gas. Also he doesn't have to bang the gear before the rpms drop he can possibly just wait that 200ms more for the rpms to drop where the next gear would like em to be. 

 

5 hours ago, nta16 said:

the engine is NOT being laboured

Right at the torque band at full load and not being able to climb in rpm you think that not laboured. That's the hardest one. Lugging the engine in its maximum torque zone. Exactly how you can break connecting rods in supercharged cars... 

I drove a 600cc 2CV 30hp if I was in the way of a more powerful truck (provided it was safe to do so) I would move out and let him by

then quickly get behind and slipstream him (this is an unsafe maneuver)

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

7 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

They seem about right. Very close to what I had calculated 

The calculator I have was set up by someone else and I do not know how the figures are rounded up or down but it has proved near enough when I have used it before.  I got a bit mixed up converting the mph to kph but think I was right in the end.  I forgot to put what the figures in brackets were for others.

 

 

7 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I have to disagree, @R_Bluedoesn't have to launch the car, he can let it roll on first gear idle and mash the gas. Also he doesn't have to bang the gear before the rpms drop he can possibly just wait that 200ms more for the rpms to drop where the next gear would like em to be. 

With that we are agreeing, not to do as the Felica guy.

 

As for the Polo guy he annoyed me half a dozen times within the first two minutes so I skipped through the video.

 

 

7 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Right at the torque band at full load and not being able to climb in rpm you think that not laboured. That's the hardest one. Lugging the engine in its maximum torque zone. Exactly how you can break connecting rods in supercharged cars... 

Again we are agreeing, I do think that is labouring the engine, and you missed the word if in quoting I understand what you were getting at by this but think you have misunderstood the general thrust of my posts as I am not always the best at writing and explaining.  I tend to present and sometimes give information from elsewhere, even if it disagrees with my thoughts, so that others can make up their own minds if they have not already done so before.

 

As the gearing is not great for this road I  think R_Blue wants to perhaps vary the way he drives up it as well as check that his car is performing as well as it could or should.  I know it is very difficult to know how well his car is going if he is unable to drive another same model, that is in good running order, or if someone who has one or knows them very well drives R-Blue's car.

 

ETA: Not carrying unnecessary additional weight always helps such as heavy tools and spare parts that are never used or should not be required, some people need to tow a trailer to carry all the just-in-case spare parts and components they want to because once in 40 years of driving this or that part failed or played up, I would have needed to tow another complete running car for all the possibilities I have had.  Once had an electrical fuse that was internment, seen a couple of intermittent incandescent bulbs and far too much other stuff for me to remember plus all the one-offs I have heard about.  I prefer prevent to cure, I have had enough (minor) roadside repairs to last me two lifetimes I do need need any more or consider them "fun" or "part of the adventure" of old car ownership.

 

Having driven "classics" (over-priced and over-valued old cars) for 30+ years as dallies I know that those new to the models will have very little idea, or wrong information on how well they could or should go and they only real way to experience this is to drive a good running example, which often is not the cleanest shiniest examples.  And even if you know the model and drive it daily someone else driving the car can pick up on things that you have missed or got used to and driving similar models or cars can highlight the good and not so good or bad with your car.

 

Unlike the Polo guy at least have the car properly running and prepared for any testing.

 

Edited 10 December, 20223 yr by nta16
ETA:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

4 hours ago, gumdrop said:

I drove a 600cc 2CV 30hp if I was in the way of a more powerful truck (provided it was safe to do so) I would move out and let him by

then quickly get behind and slipstream him (this is an unsafe maneuver)

I saw a couple of 2CVs on the road on separate occasions quite recently.  I fondly remember in the later 1970s being taken to a country village pump as a passenger, four up flying round the Daventry roundabouts in the evening fog, first roundabout I wondered if we would make it there but by the second I knew we would.  Makes you appreciate the fun rather than the ego dials.

 

I do not think R_Blue would have a chance to on the road he was on and once the momentum was dropped it would take a lot to build it again hence the truck driver's annoyance.  I initially thought the road might be in the UK but it's not and its' a dual-carriageway.

 

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

I saw a couple of 2CVs on the road on separate occasions quite recently.  I fondly remember in the later 1970s being taken to a country village pump as a passenger, four up flying round the Daventry roundabouts in the evening fog, first roundabout I wondered if we would make it there but by the second I knew we would.  Makes you appreciate the fun rather than the ego dials.

 

I do not think R_Blue would have a chance to on the road he was on and once the momentum was dropped it would take a lot to build it again hence the truck driver's annoyance.  I initially thought the road might be in the UK but it's not and its' a dual-carriageway.

 

I had a pinky blue Clubman 2cv and later a white one I fitteda front air dam to both which helped the flat out speed to 75mph

I was greatly influenced later when the Citroen Palas (?) 1300 motor was found to be a good fit. They both had the inboard disc brakes

On 09/12/2022 at 18:52, Thefeliciahacker said:

if you drive harder the oil can reach even 120++c the coolant should never, given the felly doesnt have any direct oil cooling except airflow to the pan i would say it can heat up under sustained loads

 

That can beat even a famous Synthetic oil like Amsoil?

1 hour ago, gumdrop said:

Citroen Palas (?) 1300

Pallas. Oh and the 1015, 1129 and 1222 cc variants (which went into other versions than just the Pallas) would fit into a 2CV, a Dyane or an Ami (petrol) as well as the 1299.

 

 

4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

That can beat even a famous Synthetic oil like Amsoil?

I do not know about Amsoil but the British blend I used in my road-only old banger is sold as "Classic Sport High Performance 20w50" with - " Intended for use in arduous applications such as sustained fast road use, track and motorsport. Suitable for operating at 125°C with peak temperatures up to 150°C." - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/classic-sport-high-performance-20w50/

 

On 10/12/2022 at 03:47, nta16 said:

If you think of 3,250 -5,000 rpm being the powerband, and it might not be with your car, and if my figures are correct you will see only about 5,000 rpm in 2nd, 3rd and 4th will get you in the band on these figures.  You do not have a racing gearbox or racing gearing so if you drive like that Felica guy you will be putting additional stress and wear on tour engine and transmission.  Same for changing up just before the rev limiter, do you even have a rev limiter other than yourself, is your car capable of being pushed to the 5,000 rpm let alone more without regret.

Sorry, I didn't provided tire data. That's 175/70/R13. I don't think there is a rev limiter. Rarely, I reach 5000rpm when there is a forced push from behind in the aggressive city traffic. Only for brief seconds at low gears.

I couldn't find somewhere to test 0-100 yet.

 

On 10/12/2022 at 03:47, nta16 said:

If the engine is NOT being laboured then 3,000 rpm all day long is fine but if you feel losses it can be because of other than or as well as engine oil, this is why I prefer a good quality oil in an oil car, a synthetic oil will offer more protection and for longer and deal with the heat (and cold) better generally but it can't make up for any engine issues (well perhaps a very little by allowing a limp home rather than roadside stop(s).

 

What is synthetic and what is 'synthetic' as a marketing term is a different matter, but a good oil is a good oil whatever it is or called.

 

On 11/12/2022 at 00:33, nta16 said:

I do not know about Amsoil but the British blend I used in my road-only old banger is sold as "Classic Sport High Performance 20w50" with - " Intended for use in arduous applications such as sustained fast road use, track and motorsport. Suitable for operating at 125°C with peak temperatures up to 150°C." - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/classic-sport-high-performance-20w50/

I also use 20W50 too. ELF Evolution or Castrol GTX 20W50 LPG. Oil change interval is 5000Km. Oil filter change is every 10K Km.

 

On 10/12/2022 at 03:47, nta16 said:

For the gearbox with how you are driving the car and want to if you like Castrol this might be a better oil for you, Castrol TRANSMAX Manual Transaxle fully synthetic that's suitable for you but also as with the engine oil change the thotoughness of the change is important.

On the next transmission oil change, I'll prefer synthetic.

 

On 10/12/2022 at 03:47, nta16 said:

It was the 123ignition fully electronic dissy that I was referring to, I had the basic what they now call "switch", another Renault "switch" might include curves suitable to your car but you would have to enquire and note the LPG. -https://123ignition.com/products/page/2/?filter_brand=renault

 

The cost of it must be considered as spread over time and mileage and the improvements you could get (starting, idling, throughout the rev range, no farting about with points or messing around with timing once properly set).

I think I can find a used Fabia AME engine or even a WV AFH for €500. 😮

 

On 10/12/2022 at 03:47, nta16 said:

Well that's enough for one night, if you can get a 75w-90 the 90 should be better at high temperatures particular a good 75w-90.

Your inputs are very valuable for me. I'm glad to find someone to discuss about classic cars.

 

On 10/12/2022 at 15:51, nta16 said:

I  think R_Blue wants to perhaps vary the way he drives up it as well as check that his car is performing as well as it could or should.  I know it is very difficult to know how well his car is going if he is unable to drive another same model, that is in good running order, or if someone who has one or knows them very well drives R-Blue's car.

That's right on spot. It's hard to find cars at this age in a good running order too.

 

On 10/12/2022 at 15:51, nta16 said:

I prefer prevent to cure

Preventive repairs are the best.

On 10/12/2022 at 16:11, nta16 said:

I do not think R_Blue would have a chance to on the road he was on and once the momentum was dropped it would take a lot to build it again hence the truck driver's annoyance.  I initially thought the road might be in the UK but it's not and its' a dual-carriageway.

 

On 10/12/2022 at 11:54, gumdrop said:

I drove a 600cc 2CV 30hp if I was in the way of a more powerful truck (provided it was safe to do so) I would move out and let him by

then quickly get behind and slipstream him (this is an unsafe maneuver)

 

Road bullying is a common practice. If you argue with the bully, there is a high possibility of a fight or even a death. People are usually afraid to drive in weaker cars to be unable to escape when needed.

 

Personally, I like cars like Austin Mini's, 2CVs, WV bugs. Unfortunately, they are not common nowadays and became collectors items. I miss the days when cars could be simple and reliable.

1 hour ago, R_Blue said:

Road bullying is a common practice. If you argue with the bully, there is a high possibility of a fight or even a death. People are usually afraid to drive in weaker cars to be unable to escape when needed.

What no way. 

**** dude that's like very worrying 

11 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

What no way. 

**** dude that's like very worrying 

Sad. But its true.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

14 hours ago, R_Blue said:

I also use 20W50 too. ELF Evolution or Castrol GTX 20W50 LPG. Oil change interval is 5000Km. Oil filter change is every 10K Km.

I think you might be better using a better and more suitable oil for your use and do thorough ('hot' and long drains rather than 'cold' and quick) oil and filter changes every 10,000 km same or lot less cost and less work and probably more effective for use and maintenance.

 

 

14 hours ago, R_Blue said:

I think I can find a used Fabia AME engine or even a WV AFH for €500. 😮

Yes but the engine will not be brand new, reliably warranted, easy to install and maintain, fit and forget for very many years, reliable performance improvement including perhaps some fuel economy.  But I understand about the cost, you have to consider the benefits and how long you keep the car and how much you use it.

 

 

Redone the figures for tyre size.

 

• 3rd - 3,000 / 61 kph - (1,987 / 40 kph)
• 4th - 3,000 / 83 kph - (2,195 / 61 kph)
• 5th - 3,000 / 109 kph - (2,320 / 83 kph)

• 3rd - 5,000 / 103 kph - (3,312 / 67 kph)
• 4th - 5,000 / 140 kph - (3,658 / 103 kph)
• 5th - 5,000 /  ---------- - (3,867 / 140 kph)

 

Also discovered graphs lower down the page where I had never ventured before.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 12 December, 20223 yr by nta16
reduce insert size

38 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I think you might be better using a better and more suitable oil for your use and do thorough ('hot' and long drains rather than 'cold' and quick) oil and filter changes every 10,000 km same or lot less cost and less work and probably more effective for use and maintenance.

I do the oil changes myself just to be able to wait as long as I want.   I'll check whatever they have better and suitable than these oils.

 

As soon as I can find somewhere for 0-100, I'll test these calculations. I'll record a video too. Thanks for the info.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

21 minutes ago, R_Blue said:

I do the oil changes myself just to be able to wait as long as I want.   I'll check whatever they have better and suitable than these oils.

Drain the oil out as hot/warm as possible/sensible.  When it gets to the drips pour say around 250ml of fresh clean new warmed oil in and let it drain straight out as a mini flush.

 

Synthetic oils generally handle the heat (as in your climb) and the cold better and protect for longer so unless the synthetic oils is more than twice the price of the ELF Evolution or Castrol GTX 20W50 LPG as you are changing it once instead of twice overall it is costing you no more money.  Like all oils some synthetics are better than others but as with many items there are diminishing returns as you go up in quality and price but if you are prepared to buy in advance you may be able to take advantage of lower prices at certain times or circumstances.

 

Edited 13 December, 20223 yr by nta16

Tbh I don't think 20w 50 is a poor oil. More so an excellent choice of semisynthetic (at least in Greece) blend. 

If you are heating up sooo much that even 20w 50 gets diluted nothing can save you at this point except an oil cooler or equuvelant. 

Thinking a fin modification of the oil pan. 

Maybe you can measure the oil pan with a laser thermometer. Instead of buying an oil tmep gauge. 

If its very hot. Find a machine shop and weld some fins parallel with the air flow obviously. 

5 hours ago, R_Blue said:

do the oil changes myself just to be able to wait as long as I want. /cdn-cgi/mirage/822cc7cabb108a7ad2baa3be8c0f00984b45a53be1eb1dc78ca30ada6534a70a/1280/https://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/emoticons/emoticon-0148-yes.gif  I'll check whatever they have better and suitable than these oils

I used to use gtx 15w-40 and then switched to 

Motul 15w50 4100 because I figured out in the summer the engine need more protection 

Edited 13 December, 20223 yr by Thefeliciahacker

3 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

switched to 

Motul 15w50 4100 because I figured out in the summer the engine need more protection 

 

Has to do something with LPG?

 

3 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Tbh I don't think 20w 50 is a poor oil. More so an excellent choice of semisynthetic (at least in Greece) blend. 

 

20W-50 is for old small 50cc motorcycles so called ''papakia" (Little Ducks) in Greece.

9 hours ago, nta16 said:

Drain the oil out as hot/warm as possible/sensible.  When it gets to the drips pour say around 250ml of fresh clean new warmed oil in and let it drain straight out as a mini flush.

I reside on a hill. So I do the change just after the climb. I park the car, secure the right wheel with large stones, lift the car's front left, slide a container under the car, slide myself, undo the oil plug and go for a 5 o'clock tea. 🫖

5 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Thinking a fin modification of the oil pan. 

Maybe you can measure the oil pan with a laser thermometer. Instead of buying an oil tmep gauge. 

If its very hot. Find a machine shop and weld some fins parallel with the air flow obviously. 

Many people can complete a university education but only some of them gain the ability to think like a true engineer.

 

5 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I used to use

The mystery continues...

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

''papakia"

  Pronunciation sounds cute too.

20W-50 is also a common for trucks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

7 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Tbh I don't think 20w 50 is a poor oil.

I wasn't thinking of the weight/(multi)grade but the quality, properties and additives package of the oil.  Bear in mind both the 20w and 50 are in ranges so one oil called 20W could be a different weight grade to another and same for the 50.  The better oils will more consistently remain at whatever weight/grade they are and for longer.  As an example, it was said, no proof, a certain 10w-60 would with use drop into the 50 range.  A 60 might be used instead of a 50 by those that put greater stress on the engine and or for hotter weather use.

 

The old British cars I had specified 20w-50 but I used to use a 15w-50 "Motorsport" version and would have used a 10w-50 or 5w-50 had they been about and good quality because I used my cars through winter and they all always sit outside as I do not have a garage.

 

I think R-Blue for now at least should stay with whatever oil weight/(multi)grade Skoda specified for his location.

 

 

7 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Maybe you can measure the oil pan with a laser thermometer. Instead of buying an oil tmep gauge. 

You would know better than me but with the laser thermometers you also have to allow for (sorry I forget the word) but the reading being from shiny metal such as a painted pan and or covered in oil, plus you always need to test the accuracy of any test equipment before conducting the test, I have seen some quote some very strange figures from using an infrared thermometer.  When I was lent one I found it to be a bit inconsistent with its readings but that might have been my use or it was unreliable or a combination of both.

 

Over here the position or placement of the front number plate can make a difference to cooling.  On a tour one chap had the number plate in a good place but had fitted the tour's rally plaque at the front partially blocking  the hole to the radiator on a fibreglass Cobra replica.  The fibreglass body combined with a 7 litre American V8 engine and hot summer weather already did not help with cooling and the oil cooler was not best positioned.  But just moving the rally plaque helped to calm the driver's temperature gauge anxiety.  Some people do not drive their cars enough to really know or understand the car and how to drive it.

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Bear in mind both the 20w and 50 are in ranges so one oil called 20W could be a different weight grade to another and same for the 50.  The better oils will more consistently remain at whatever weight/grade they are and for longer.

Sort of - A monograde oil of stated viscosity will always flow at a given speed at a specific temperature. As this temperature rises, the flow rate also rises, the lubricity falls but the viscosity should stay constant.

 

With a multigrade oil, the MW rating is always measured at 0C, and the N (hot) rating at 100C. This has the effect of reducing the change of flow rate and of lubricity. So a 10W-50 multigrade will have more stable properties than a 20W-50, although they both have the same hot viscosity.

5 hours ago, R_Blue said:

The mystery continues

no myster at all, ideally i would go with Castrol GTX 20W-50 in the summer and 15W-40 in the winter, but since the intervals would be uneven (meaning that in the summer the oil would be used for 2000km and in the winter for 5-6k kms) I didnt want to either waste oil by changing it early or use a less than ideal for 40c enviriomental temperature oil. So I combined both worlds 15W-(for cold starts)50(for summer protection) with a 5-7k km interval

 

7 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Has to do something with LPG?

no just what i said above

 

5 hours ago, R_Blue said:

Many people can complete a university education but only some of them gain the ability to think like a true engineer

hahaha imagine having both

 

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

You would know better than me but with the laser thermometers you also have to allow for (sorry I forget the word) but the reading being from shiny metal such as a painted pan and or covered in oil, plus you always need to test the accuracy of any test equipment before conducting the test, I have seen some quote some very strange figures from using an infrared thermometer.  When I was lent one I found it to be a bit inconsistent with its readings but that might have been my use or it was unreliable or a combination of both.

 

obvioulsy the pan is black so no gloss surface here, cleaning it with some brake cleaner before the start of the journey is also fine.
And @R_Blue is a clever man if he reads 50c with the engine at 95 and weather at 40 he is going to retake the measurment, or if he reads 300c he is not going to assume he has a small chernobyl in his engine

6 hours ago, R_Blue said:

/cdn-cgi/mirage/c1764b7a67d82f0f20a664058e2256d7b34780ec77bc5499981a54f987d99404/1440/https://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/emoticons/emoticon-0102-bigsmile.gif  Pronunciation sounds cute too.

 

''papi'' is one (singular) and ''papakia'' or ''papia'' are the many (plural)

 

An example:

https://motorbike.gr/αφιερώματα/ελλαδα-2021-τα-φθηνότερα-παπιά-της-αγοράς/

 

also ''Papakia'' in Greek Army we call the M-113 style armoured vehicles

https://www.ellinikos-stratos.com/images/stratos/m-113_5.jpg

 

because they can ''swim''.

 

56 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

ideally i would go with Castrol GTX 20W-50 in the summer and 15W-40 in the winter

 

I can imagine sport driving style with 20W-50 oil, has our morot so many tolerances?

The fuel consumption won't affected?

 

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

2 hours ago, KenONeill said:

Sort of - A monograde oil of stated viscosity will always flow at a given speed at a specific temperature. As this temperature rises, the flow rate also rises, the lubricity falls but the viscosity should stay constant.

Yes I should perhaps the 20w and 50 of 20w50 multigrade oil I was being more descriptive than technical and the SAE but for those really interested, the site is out of date but the principles apply. - https://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_viscosity_explained.htm

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

obvioulsy the pan is black so no gloss surface here, cleaning it with some brake cleaner before the start of the journey is also fine.

Blimey it must be something in the water here.  I have found with old cars you can not rely on anything being as factory or to factory standard, if you tell me the pan can not be painted gloss I will take your word for it.  I am not sure everyone with the excitement of playing around with sexy toys and their cars would rush to get to the ground and under the car to wipe off possibly dirty gritty oil with all the other possibly contaminants that might be there (dog hairs perhaps 😉 ) but I'm sure R_Blue keep our reminders to mind.

 

 

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

And @R_Blue is a clever man if he reads 50c with the engine at 95 and weather at 40 he is going to retake the measurment, or if he reads 300c he is not going to assume he has a small chernobyl in his engine

The inaccuracies and unreliability might not be as wide as a nuclear cloud drifting across, its only going to give a rough idea to one point anyway.  Your eyes would swivel in your head looking at some oil temperature gauges under some car use.  It's more often just another thing to worry about that wasn't a worry before.

 

Whoever needs or wants all the extra stuff that most owners do without then that is their choice.

 

Obviously they have much more storage space than I, obviously.  😄