First I wasn't sure where to post this, here or Freedom section.

2nd, my dilemma can't really be sattisfied to any great degree by posting this, ultimatly, the desicon is mine.

My Yeti is a 1.2 TSi, 2016, petrol, manual, 39,300 miles on the clock from new, 2nd owner, purchased from a Skoda Dealer.

I have written about my Yeti on another forum, I joined this forum some time ago as the original intention was to buy a Roomster but that never happened.

As on the other forum, in recent weeks and days I have got such good advice from both.

My Yeti broke down in November 2016,  2019,  family and my mental health issues prevented me getting Yeti issues resolved, vehicle hasn't started since.

I'm much stronger now, raring to go but admittedly mistrustful.

My driving career and my age is such I am much more use to " classic cars ", things easier to repair, the Yeti is the most complicated vehicle I have owned and so much about it I don't understand.

But no regrets buying, I do however/am bitterly regretful how I was treated by VW.

I trusted what I was told, wasn't smart enough, quick enough to see through the ***t VW spewed out. I didn't question, I trusted.

And when you know little mechanically about your vehicle, not a great place to be.

So my dilemma is who I should trust with repairs to my vehicle and there is a budget factor to but the cost is going to hurt, I know this.

 Certainly in the last 2-3 weeks I have spoken to lots of garages,, 40 miles or so either side of Swansea, trying to find my way through my own reticence, my mistrust,

But frankly the *******s some of these garages spout.

However I have found two garages I like and have spoken to in person.

The first run by two guys, mid 50s, grease monkeys would not be amiss as a description, I spoke to them in person, they know their stuff and have VW diagnostics, I could tell they have seen vehicles come and go, drivers to but their garage, what a **** hole, I mean appalling, totally unorganised but I bet they knew where every nut/bolt/ part was or at least what part of the garage to try find it. They were  reluctant to let me have VW fault print outs but happy to use non Skoda but oem parts and guarantee their work for 12 months and I think cheaper of the two found.

The 2nd garage, huge difference, as with the first, the boss knew what he was talking about, he wasn't out to impress just clearly knew about Yeti, 1.2 TSi engines in general, like most I have spoken to, he doubts all the injectors have sheared and all need replacing, he to thinks it's a fuel rail bolt issue but damage might have been caused to one or two of the injectors, again happy to use non Skoda but oem spec' parts.

He however is only prepared to guarantee his work/parts for 6 months, can give me fault print outs and uses the same diagnostics VW use.

I liked him, his garage was at least better organised and so much cleaner, I didn't like it was going to cost the same using him as using a VW service centre and he hasn't been established in his premises for long.

He quoted up to £ 1500, which defeats my attempt in keeping costs down but in fairness to both, they can't quote accurately until either have the car and inspect.

Both garages are not VAG I don't think but my vehicle is long out of warranty, I'd still feel much happier if I could find a place that is VAG for peace of mind, I have spoken to 2 or 3 but they have not inspired me much.

You can't judge a book by its cover, that's where I'm at, my dilemma. I could keep looking but prevarication sets in.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 20 February, 20233 yr by cado
Error in year typo.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510486-where-to-get-hardened-bolts-from

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510456-battery-upgrade

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510652-rules-on-changing-car-batteries

 

The Fuel Rail is a known issue. Known by Skoda / VW Group. 

This In this thread , Mk3 Fabia 1.2 TSI,s.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/468348-fual-leak

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/468348-fual-leak/page/10

 

 

Edited 17 February, 20233 yr by toot

1 hour ago, toot said:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510486-where-to-get-hardened-bolts-from

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510456-battery-upgrade

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510652-rules-on-changing-car-batteries

 

The Fuel Rail is a known issue. Known by Skoda / VW Group. 

This In this thread , Mk3 Fabia 1.2 TSI,s.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/468348-fual-leak

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/468348-fual-leak/page/10

 

 

Thanks Toot,

Like some things in life, if I knew then what I know now maybe things would have been easier for me.

BTW, where can I find this fault/s officially acknowledged by VW and the fixes, TSBs I think is the term used?

 

@varooom might find you anything that is in the system.  He had been a great help to many here and further afield. 

I have not found anything in my collection of TPI/TSB's, but I only have the tip of the iceberg.

 

You might just be as well to make an account with erWin Skoda, and have your VIN ready to go in a text file.  You will also want to make sure that you have the ability to "print" PDF from webpages.

Once you have your account, you will need to purchase 1hr of time to download your build sheet of PR codes (might not help you, but does me) and then get your repair/wiring diagrams that are really good to have.  Then you can hit the online ElsaPro section where you will see among other things wiring diagrams online/repair information, but here you are looking for what we call the RED BOOK, this is where any recalls/relevant TPI's can be found (and downloaded via PDF printer function)

 

It will be alien if you do try this yourself, so you may need to go in for another hour potentially, so digest what you got and go back in when you have rested!

17 hours ago, varooom said:

I have not found anything in my collection of TPI/TSB's, but I only have the tip of the iceberg.

 

You might just be as well to make an account with erWin Skoda, and have your VIN ready to go in a text file.  You will also want to make sure that you have the ability to "print" PDF from webpages.

Once you have your account, you will need to purchase 1hr of time to download your build sheet of PR codes (might not help you, but does me) and then get your repair/wiring diagrams that are really good to have.  Then you can hit the online ElsaPro section where you will see among other things wiring diagrams online/repair information, but here you are looking for what we call the RED BOOK, this is where any recalls/relevant TPI's can be found (and downloaded via PDF printer function)

 

It will be alien if you do try this yourself, so you may need to go in for another hour potentially, so digest what you got and go back in when you have rested!

Thanks Varooom,

 

Once I have the Yeti returned to me, this is something I will download, so much learning and reading to do.

 

In times gone by, a manual for your specific make and model of vehicle, a trip to your Auto Mart shop or W.H. Smiths, life was eaiser.

And the car's 'Driver's Handbook' told you so much more.  🙂

 

 (and no VW excluding info on oils and coolant).

 

From my last car, but that was from when cars were so much simpler, one page for the relevant wiring diagram, the whole book wouldn't be big enough now.  😄

Skoda Yeti-Owners-Manual.pdf

Edited 18 February, 20233 yr by toot

Hi and thanks to both Toot and Varooom for the above oil specs', not sure how we got there on this thread.

 

I note tho' none of the above images recomend what oil should be used for a petrol 1.2 TSI Yeti 2016 which is 83-85KW, 110 BHP varient,

109 bhp/ 110 ps / 81 kW

113 bhp/115 ps/ 84.6 kW

 

With a Keeper of a 1.2 TSI even from 2015 of what ever power i would keep doing fixed service oil and filter changes, high or low annual mileage and not use Long Life oil.

So not 5w 30 FS III, or 0w 30 FS III & not 0w 20 FS IV.

 

I would use to VW 502 00. 

Not long life oil, but a longer living TSI.  *Just in  my opinion.*

 

When the engines / emissions changed to Euro 6 the TSI's, 1.2, 1.4, 1.8, 2.0 TSI's stayed the same.  (Some published stuff shows VW changed in 2015 to the new oil)

Fixed or Flexible service regimes,  VW 504 00 / 507 00.    That is 5w 30 FS III  (Long Life).

The Fixed is VW 502 00 if you want.  5w 40 FS usually.

 

That stayed the same until the WLTP was coming in and VW needed lower emissions during testing.

VW508 00 / 509 00

So they started using 0w 20 FS IV (Long Life)  and never mention anything other than for Variable Servicing.  & not backward compatible.

So that is really for the 1.0, 1.4 / 1.5 or 1.8, 2.0 TSI's that have a GPF.  

But then Dealerships were often not servicing and using that in 2018 on and neither were owners when they became aware of the price. 

 

 

Edited 18 February, 20233 yr by toot

@toot thanks, as you know I very often quote and post images from various Skoda Owner's Manuals, I was thinking of something different but don't want to get into a debate or upset any VW or VWSkoda loyal and faithful.

 

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

@toot thanks, as you know I very often quote and post images from various Skoda Owner's Manuals, I was thinking of something different but don't want to get into a debate or upset any VW or VWSkoda loyal and faithful.

 

Obviously not Nigel but I think you worry to much about it.

 

I'm getting to know you, so long as readers are aware what your posting may not be relavant to their particular issue, you keep posting, it's all interesting stuff and I've learnt a lot.

 

Going off topic can be frustrating but that's forum life for you.

Edited 18 February, 20233 yr by cado

4 hours ago, toot said:

109 bhp/ 110 ps / 81 kW

113 bhp/115 ps/ 84.6 kW

 

With a Keeper of a 1.2 TSI even from 2015 of what ever power i would keep doing fixed service oil and filter changes, high or low annual mileage and not use Long Life oil.

So not 5w 30 FS III, or 0w 30 FS III & not 0w 20 FS IV.

 

I would use to VW 502 00. 

Not long life oil, but a longer living TSI.  *Just in  my opinion.*

 

 

 

 

Hi, Toots,

 

My Yeti is a 1.2TSi, petrol, manual, 2016 plate, 39,300 miles on the clock from new, 2nd owner with Start/Stop.

 

Yeti will have work done on it soon as it has been a non-runner for 3 years.

 

Among  other things is draining the existing oil, replacing it along with oil filter.

 

I have settled on the oil I will eventually use which is Castrol Magnatec start/stop, this has an ACEA C2 value and it is not LL.

 

However, depending on whom I speak to, recommended is either Quantum Cube, fully synthetic, VW spec' is 504.00/507.00, QC is apparently what VW put in a lot of their engines. is LL and is ACEA C3

 

Another with the same specs' as Quantum is Castrol Edge, again LL and ACEA C3.

 

So why am I choosing Castrol Magnatec that is a little lower in spec', is VW 502 00/ 505 00 --- well it's to try to match how my Yeti will get used and is specifically for start stop engines but it is not my only reasoning.

 

My car will now only ever get used for very short journeys and maybe only 3-4 times a week, rest of the time it will be parked up.

 

All three oils are 5W-30, the difference being the first two are optimised for every day, lengthy driving/mileage.

 

Whereas the Magnatec, while it will protect on a long journey, is more suited for less used vehicles, where LL is not so important and a regular oil change and filter every 6-7 thousand miles.

 

My plan is to let the workshop drain and fill with whatever oil required when work is completed, use it as a kind of engine flush, drain at 1500 miles, then drain and fill with Magnatec and a new filter, that's the plan anyway.

 

I can't prove any of this to you, it is all just my reasoning and opinion. 

 

 

 

 

Edited 18 February, 20233 yr by cado

@cadoI like good oil, the correct oil, 

but for a 1.2 TSI the good oil can be in a ASDA, TESCO, COMMA container or a Fuchs / Quantum or any other as long as to VW502 00 / 5 w 40 Full Synthetic.

 

As to VW recommendation and Castrol.  VW never did to well with many Euro 4 or Euro 5 engines and their longevity with Long Life Castrol,.

Funnily the Japanese, South Koreans, and French manufacturers recommended other oil producers than the German manufacturers.

Edited 18 February, 20233 yr by toot

37 minutes ago, toot said:

@cadoI like good oil, the correct oil, 

but for a 1.2 TSI the good oil can be in a ASDA, TESCO, COMMA container or a Fuchs / Quantum or any other as long as to VW502 00 / 5 w 40 Full Synthetic.

 

Thanks Toots

and why 5W-40 and not 5W-30 as specified for a Yeti 1.2 TSi?

Use long life oil if you want it is for Fixed or Variable servicing, but personally i do not like it for a TSI.

 

I am not suggesting non Long Life to save money as the price difference is near nothing if there is any difference.

I like 5 w 40 FS for a TSI.

You need to do fixed service intervals anyway if doing almost no miles and short cold start trips.

 

http://volkswagen.co.uk/en/owners-and-drivers/servicing/service-plans/service-schedules.html

 

 

Are the spark plugs changed or getting replaced?  Or at least inspected.

 

 cado, sorry I've not posted to help with your main subject but I really can't help you with your dilemma as I've rarely found garages that can be trusted and have had ****-poor work from respected and recommended garages on (much) more than one occasion.

 

 

3 hours ago, cado said:

Going off topic can be frustrating but that's forum life for you.

Yes but I  was following on from someone else.  😄 - - -

 

16 hours ago, cado said:

In times gone by, a manual for your specific make and model of vehicle, a trip to your Auto Mart shop or W.H. Smiths, life was eaiser.

😄

 

And the tangent lead to you getting the VW oil spec number, this from a 2015 Yeti Owner's Manual. -

 

And then we got on to oil beliefs which I will chip in on, as I have for decades on oil beliefs.

 

A good oil is a good oil, be it, mineral, (marketing) 'semi-synthetic' (marketing) 'synthetic' or synthetic.  Assuming the VW engineers have specified the (correct) oil for many reasons you can stick with that as there's so much variety of choice with its availability.

 

Unless you're very lucky the workshop will do a not so thorough quick cold drain and refill, but the thoroughness of the oil change is important as interval /  regularity.   I like your idea of the first workshop oil change as a running flush but I'd do it sooner, depending on use and mileage, perhaps do the oil & filter change at 3 months later, so in warmer weather for convenience, 6 months at the latest, or after 500 or 1,000 miles.

 

When I do oil changes (engine, gearbox, rear axle) I get the oil as hot as possible, leave to drain for as long as possible / sensible, at the very end of the drain tip a small amount of fresh warmed (solar gain often) oil in the filler hole and let in drain out fully as a sort of mini-flush.  I'd change the oil every 12-months even if I'd not done 6 or 7K-miles, short journeys, especially where the oil doesn't fully warm, get the oil more contaminated. 

 

Just because I like to support the country when I can I would buy the oil from an English blender and as I've had good service and products from them I get Millers Oils.   I'd go with 5w30 for short journeys.  But they do a 5w40 if you want.  Both cover toot's VW502 00 and your VW 502 00/ 505 00 and ACEA C3 (in one oil!, well two, not looked at the others).

 

Millers EE Performance Engine Oil C3 5w30. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/ee-performance-c3-5w30/

 

Millers EE Performance Engine Oil C3 5w40 - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/ee-performance-engine-oil-c3-5w40/

 

They also do a choice of ten other engine oils suitable for use too.

 

Edited 18 February, 20233 yr by nta16
Edited to correct my mistake, thanks toot

Just a warning.

With Hydraulic Chain Tensioners do not leave the oil to drain for a long time. Drain the oil, get the new oil in. 

21 minutes ago, toot said:

Just a warning.

With Hydraulic Chain Tensioners do not leave the oil to drain for a long time. Drain the oil, get the new oil in. 

Sorry I forgot that, thanks for putting me right, I was thinking more of my classics (I see I did put  / sensible so wasn't totally off with the fairies but you make a good point to subject). 

 

Edited 18 February, 20233 yr by nta16

1 hour ago, toot said:

As to VW recommendation and Castrol.  VW never did to well with many Euro 4 or Euro 5 engines and their longevity with Long Life Castrol,.

Must be the oil, couldn't be the German engineering quality oil specification or the engines.  🙃

 

21 hours ago, nta16 said:

 A good oil is a good oil, be it, mineral, (marketing) 'semi-synthetic' (marketing) 'synthetic' or synthetic.  Assuming the VW engineers have specified the (correct) oil for many reasons you can stick with that as there's so much variety of choice with its availability.

 

Unless you're very lucky the workshop will do a not so thorough quick cold drain and refill, but the thoroughness of the oil change is important as interval /  regularity.   I like your idea of the first workshop oil change as a running flush but I'd do it sooner, depending on use and mileage, perhaps do the oil & filter change at 3 months later, so in warmer weather for convenience, 6 months at the latest, or after 500 or 1,000 miles.

 

When I do oil changes (engine, gearbox, rear axle) I get the oil as hot as possible, leave to drain for as long as possible / sensible, at the very end of the drain tip a small amount of fresh warmed (solar gain often) oil in the filler hole and let in drain out fully as a sort of mini-flush.  I'd change the oil every 12-months even if I'd not done 6 or 7K-miles, short journeys, especially where the oil doesn't fully warm, get the oil more contaminated. 

 

 

 

Thanks Nigel,

 

I threw 1500 miles at the oil change, it seemed the sensible approach, but thinking about it 1500 miles is to long, I will half that to 500 or 700 miles, same reasoning, using it as an oil flush, then change to oil brand of desired choice.

 

I will not be using a LL oil for reasons explained, I just think it the more sensible approach given how my Yeti will be used.

 

As I will be changing oil every 6-7 thousand miles, in your opnion should I be changing the oil filter with every oil change??

 

I have heard of Millers,  I will check their oil out but I will stick to a 5W-30 spec', regardless of brand,for peace of mind.

 

On the subject of oil filters, my Yeti being a 2016 1.2TSi manual, petrol and a diffrent layout to diesel versions, where is the oil filter on my vehicle, is it accesed from the top or bottom?

 

Would you know if it a canister or filter/cardridge type?

@cado what about how your Yeti will be used makes you think Long Life oil is right?

Why would you change oil and not spend around about £10 & change the oil filter?

Edited 19 February, 20233 yr by toot

23 minutes ago, toot said:

@cado what about how your Yeti will be used makes you think Long Life oil is right?

Why would you change oil and not spend around about £10 & change the oil filter?

 

Hello Toot

 

I think something has got lost in translation in one of my posts.

 

I don't think LL oil is right for my Yeti.

 

An oil filter change is usally a must with an oil change-- but as I am going to undertake oil changes much more often, 6-7 thousand miles, I was wondering if I could skip an oil filter change to every say 2nd oil change?

cado, 500, 700, 1,000 or a time are just a figures really, conditions of use and environment play into when might be best for the oil change, most people wouldn't bother, engineers will say it's a waste of time and any oil to spec will do (what spec when and how it was arrived at is a different matter).

 

Personally I don't but into the idea of a long life oil, a better oil will protect better for longer by its extended protection and retaining its protection over wider ranges, more consistently.

 

I'd change the oil at least once a year or 12k-miles.  I can't see any point in not changing the filter every time the oil is changed as you hope the filter is holding some crud so you want that out of the car for the new filter to collect the next lot.  And I prefer to use better quality oil filters, what they are for VW I've not really established yet as I've managed to avoid the hassle of doing an engine oil change on the Fabia (though I have done the "waste of time" gearbox oil change).  Just to make things clear I  l - o - a -t - h - e  doing any work on cars we own, dirty messy horrible thankless unrewarding pain in the back, neck and head way of passing time, but I'm not so anti doing small jobs on other peoples' cars .

 

Americans might consider 6-7k-miles a long oil change interval, but things are cheaper over there and they love oil.

 

I am thinking that I might do (a) 6 month engine oil and filter change on the Fabia as it's used so frequently for very, very short journeys but the plastic underheld means it needs driving on to breeze blocks for me to get my head under there to get the shield off, and I need to lug the breeze blocks there and back and be arsed to do the job that if my back's not playing me up from the "£$%^&* stupid idea of using wheel bolts instead of wheel studs, the !£"$!%^&.

 

IIRC on my wife's Fabia 1.2 TSI the oil filter is middleish at front  (near cooling rad) and looks easy enough to get but I've yet to discover how true that might be.

 

Do bear in mind the engine is not of importance compared to the brakes, steering, suspension (all three include the tyres), safety electrics (lights, wipers, blower, horn, car battery) and windows. 

 

Have you resolved the injector issue or whatever it is that has meant the car being off the road for 7 years?

 

It sounds like it has been in and out of a couple of garages, not running, several people tinkering perhaps removing and not refitting parts..........................

 

I guess what I am saying is if the issue is still unresolved then you should not be concentrating on what oil you may use, the oil change frequency etc, you have a non running car that needs repairing and will probably then require some recommissioning of which an oil change is but one part, albeit an important one.