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According to the handbook I should be able to confirm if the head is suitable for unleaded once I find the engine number

I have the handbook and service book, spare key is misplaced but by last owner so the suspicions are it will turn up at some point and he will forward to me.  I have a Haynes but have found in the past on other cars, as you say, the info can be hit and miss

Its been unused since 2021 so as you say a full 36k inspection is top of the list 

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If you find the engine number it might confirm if the engine is the original.  If it has a stamped plate with the engine number it can be transferred but often will have the wrong.  Another reason for not going strictly by even the Owner's Handbook if you think you're setting the original engine and it's been swapped out with a different engine with different settings.  And of course how things were set for a new engine in 1990 will be different to now as it's used and patrols and oils are different.

 

Not being used sine 2021 it could have a lot of airborne debris in the engine bay, you've took the air filter out so that should give you a clue when compared against a brand new one, the rough idle might be a minor clean and/or tweak of the carb but I'd still do a service of the engine and set up before the carb (as it's last in the chain) even if the engine oil looks clean on the dipstick.

 

I also like to do a whole coolant/heating system clean, flush, back-flush, flush and refill, including engine block drain and heating matrix as soon as practical as unnecessary engine heat can cause other issues or upset other systems from best running.  Also to see the state of the coolant from the rad, engine block and matrix which can give clues to how well things might be internally.  When convenient, like when installing new parts or summer warmer drier weather, I do a more thorough cleaning to include removing the rad, hoses, stat, and matrix and individual flushing off the car.  I only do it once then just thorough coolant changes.

 

On the MGs replacing heaterbox seals can mean the heat actually makes it to the cabin and the cabin gets hot (or warmish for MGBs in winter) too hot for Spridgets.

 

Check the coolant system pressure cap as IIRC they could go and make you think it might be HGF.

 

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Coolant system flush and hose replacement on the list (they all look original). Bit concerned about the bleeding, might look to get it vacuum bled

Pretty sure engine is original given the low mileage but as you say engine number check should confirm 

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I'd not be in a rush to buy modern made rubber hoses as they can sometimes be low, very low or abysmal quality.  If you can get a set of preformed silicone hoses then yes,  I'd take off a few of the easy to get at hoses that just requires the coolant level to be dropped a bit and inspect them internally and externally and if they look good they'd stay for me.  Obviously if you see any of the others damaged or aged externally they may need changing at greater priority.

 

Unless there's a particular problem with trapped air on the Estelles I'd not worry about a vacuum bled I've just read and followed what's in various Handbooks for old cars (called "classics") and never had any problems.  Others have used other systems and had issues mainly I think by not reading the instructions and requirements in the Handbooks and I've never had to leave the cap off or pump a main hose just draining (or syphoning if partial) and steady refills following the book (or "bible" as others joked when I always suggested its use).

 

Same with brakes and hydraulic clutch flushes and bleeds I just use gravity (or push-pedal if in more of a hurry) and one-man-one-jar method and never had problems whereas those using other methods seem to get issues - I suspect because they're in more of a rush.  I must admit the idea of drawing the air and fluid up to the highest point did appeal but I never bothered as I'd still got the jars and hoses.  It's not that I'm any good at mechanics, the very opposite, but allow lots and lots of time to myself and don't need to prove how fast I can do the job to impress others, but I have made stupid mistakes by being careless, easily resolved but reminded me that I was not as thorough as I thought I was or used to be.  I generally loathe working on my own car, or my wife's, but I'm a cheaper idiot than many of the professionals and specialist I've paid lots of money to previously.

 

Most servicing and maintenance boils down to cleaning and lubricating, if you take your time and care you can often do a thorough job with good results.

 

These are very simple cars generally you don't need any special equipment think how basic things might have been for owners in other countries.

 

I used garden hose and buckets for flush, back-flush and flush again, off-cut hose and bungs or cloths and my lungs to evacuate residue from various parts of the cooling/heating system once down to open-ended areas (careful not to hyperventilated).

 

If you want to use a vacuum for emptying, and containing to inspected and safe disposal fine but unless you know different it should not be for worry of bleeding.

  

Edited by nta16
missing word - not
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  • 4 weeks later...
21 hours ago, lewist123 said:

Finally pulled my finger out and finished (well started and finished really) the restoration on my Estelle.

Nice, particularly with the 4 door 2 seater look. :) 

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  • 7 months later...

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