CBZB chain tensioner replacement guide

[Aaron1875]

Hi all

fabia Monte Carlo received car with no history, but completed checks using VCDS engine was healthy except 2 sec rattle cold start. 

I want to change my tensioner because I believe it’s failing to hold tension due to the 2 sec rattle on cold start which immediately ceases and also fails to reoccur when turning on car a second time, or if it’s only been stood a short while. The car makes no noise after initial start all through Rev range and is very responsive despite being high miles approx 144 k mls. When in bought car I did a deep dive using VCDS and could see there were logs for an elongated timing belt in 2015 and a subsequent note about recalibration after timing chain replacement in 2015. 
 

The chain kit would have been replaced at an earlier service interval from my frictions from VCDS, and being a Dec 2011 registered car should have the later superseded tensioner and chain kit Skoda allegedly installed in post October / Nov 2011 vehicles. 
 

anyway I just want a simple guide to swap out the chain tensioner which I’m led to believe does not require special tools or timing tools to recalibrate, unless I’m mistaken ? 

 

regards

[sepulchrave]

I suspect the tensioner has a piston actuated by oil pressure to keep the chain taut while the engine is running, since you say it immediately goes quiet when started then clearly it's working properly so I think that changing the tensioner probably won't make any difference.

[Aaron1875]

The spring that holds tension loses its tensioning ability as it goes old; there were newer revised tensioners that superseded earlier ones. A new tensioner eliminates the cold start rattle. It worked on my nephews 1.2 TSI Octavia, early 2011 model; when hus mechanic replace his full timing chain set. His car had worn sprockets and chain, because it was making a rattle even after starting and warming up. However after his mechanic complete job it ran silky smooth and silent from start up. 
 

just need a how to guide to replace tensioner. 

[bigjohn]

Make sure you have the correct oil filter in place as there is a valve to stop oil drain back due to the orientation of the filter.

 

A small brief slight start-up rattle from cold is normal for the EA111 engine but two seconds sounds excessive.  My 2014 Superb 1.4 16v EA111 has had a cold start brief rattle since I bought it at 14 months old / 14k miles. I mentioned it whilst under Skoda warranty and was told everything was well - fast forward 8 years & 111k miles and it's exactly the same. Engine still sounds sweet, burns negligible oil and still averages mid 40's to 50+mpg.

 

 

 

 

Edited 4 June, 2023 by bigjohn

[Aaron1875]

I’ve ensured the correct filter is on, and as for the time duration of rattle, I actually think its probably more like a second. However, its very discernible compared to the 1.4 TSI CTHE Sharan engine we have; which you can hear a brief half second rattle. 

[Doily]

I've had 1.2 HTP Mk 1 and Mk 2 Fabs in my household for the past 8 years. They all had a 2 second rattle on cold start up. I sold the last with 160k on the clock and still going strong with original chain and tensioner. 

I've come to the conclusion it's normal for Fabs with chains.

[Wonky]

My car is a CBZA 1.2 TSI 63Kw. I started to experience this rattle around 3 years ago. I changed the tensioner with the latest revision which is what it probably already had fitted, (2013) car and it’s been fine since then.
I removed the top black plastic cover. Placed some microfibre cloth around the chain to prevent any sealant falling into the timing cover area whilst I removed the old sealant, then vacuumed the cloth area to remove silicone debris.

Then made a wooden wedge which was placed between the chain and casing above the tensioner to maintain the chain tension and replaced the tensioner after priming it in fresh oil. Not sure if this was necessary but it is what I did. New sealant and job done. Only took approximately 45 minutes or so.

[Aaron1875]

8 hours ago, Wonky said:

My car is a CBZA 1.2 TSI 63Kw. I started to experience this rattle around 3 years ago. I changed the tensioner with the latest revision which is what it probably already had fitted, (2013) car and it’s been fine since then.
I removed the top black plastic cover. Placed some microfibre cloth around the chain to prevent any sealant falling into the timing cover area whilst I removed the old sealant, then vacuumed the cloth area to remove silicone debris.

Then made a wooden wedge which was placed between the chain and casing above the tensioner to maintain the chain tension and replaced the tensioner after priming it in fresh oil. Not sure if this was necessary but it is what I did. New sealant and job done. Only took approximately 45 minutes or so.

thanks for reply, 

when you removed to top rocker cover

 

1. did you also remove the timing chain case cover ? Is there a top and bottom separate casing ? Do I only need to take off top cover ?

2. is tensioner accessible from the top of engine or do you have to go underneath? 

[Aaron1875]

11 hours ago, Wonky said:

My car is a CBZA 1.2 TSI 63Kw. I started to experience this rattle around 3 years ago. I changed the tensioner with the latest revision which is what it probably already had fitted, (2013) car and it’s been fine since then.
I removed the top black plastic cover. Placed some microfibre cloth around the chain to prevent any sealant falling into the timing cover area whilst I removed the old sealant, then vacuumed the cloth area to remove silicone debris.

Then made a wooden wedge which was placed between the chain and casing above the tensioner to maintain the chain tension and replaced the tensioner after priming it in fresh oil. Not sure if this was necessary but it is what I did. New sealant and job done. Only took approximately 45 minutes or so.

Following on from my last post, I see from videos (albeit they’re full strip downs to change full chain set) that it’s the top timing cover case you removed not rocket cover, Is that correct ? 
 

Also when you wedge timing chain, is that

1. the actual chain you wedge, or do you wedge the plastic guide that the chain rests in, against the timing case ?
 

2. Is that guide visible from removing top timing case cover ? 

[Wonky]

I only removed the black plastic top cover. It was just the chain that was visible but my thinking was, keeping the chain tensioned would ensure it could not move off the sprockets.

[Aaron1875]

Thanks, last question I promise lol. 
i want to be prepped for when I do job,

 

what size or dimension should the wedge be  ? and do I slide thin end along the back of the guide between the the timing case comes to maintain tension to keep chain in situ ? 

[Wonky]

Unfortunately I did not record the measurements, I will be obvious when you remove the top cover I think. Yep, I just used it as you say to keep the chain against the sprocket. Incidentally, you will need new  sealant too.  Think I still have the type I used if you need more info.

[Aaron1875]

I swapped it out without taking off top cover. I just moved the water pipes out the way, primed the new tensioner with oil before installing, it was quite simple to do. 
 

I took off the king lead to coil distributor and cranked the car a few times and plugged it back in and started car,

 

No rattle !!! on start up !!! 

[Wonky]

Peace and harmony restored! Glad you’re sorted. Someone else posted that they too had replaced the tensioner without removing top cover etc. I wasn’t sure if there was any risk of chain movement on the sprockets hence my approach. Good to know it’s not.