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Drone noise on front end, suspected wheel bearing failure.

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Only a matter of time before I have to do mine, the setup looks similar to the Fabia, is that the case?

 

I had not considered buying a tool to pull the bearing in/out in situ as I have a hydraulic press, from what I can see you have pretty much disconnected the whole hub anyway.

 

Is there any advantage in using the puller or is using a press better?

 

Is the bearing assembly different on the Octavia/Yeti meaning a different approach perhaps using the press?

 

Finally what about replacing the bearing only and reusing the existing carrier and ABS ring (assuming its the same setup)?

 

Sorry for so many questions but where I am now just ordering a tool from Ebay is not the easy cheap option it was when I still had a UK address.

 

Also Ebay has locked me out and I cant get a text code because they have added a zero to my phone number like thousands of other sufferers, absolutely impossible to get into contact with them other than creating a new account, I've had the old one over 25 years but thats another story.

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A press is a good way to destroy this (Gen2) type of bearing/hub combination during fitment.

That's why these fitting kits exist, so that you can push on the outer, rather than the inner which you would be if the press were applied to the hub part.

 

Fortunately your Yeti uses bolt-in front bearing assemblies, so no such faffing about is required, these being the original fitment and current, supersession part numbers: GENUINE VW AUDI SEAT SKODA FRONT WHEEL BEARING 3 STUD 1K0498621 5K0498621A -NEW | eBay

On 31/07/2023 at 16:45, Lofty said:

I had similar concerns when I did it, but the bearing had bottomed out and there was a noticeable "click" from the retaining ring so I guessed it was fully home.

Funnily enough the first two bearings I was sent didn't have the retaining ring on at all, so I sent the back and got ones that did, better safe than sorry eh?

I think that by the time that I ordered up my first Gen2 bearing for a Polo last year, SKF, who might have been my bearing brand of choice, had done away with that means of locking the bearing in place, so as I couldn't fine much out as to why this "improvement" could be beneficial to me, I changed to buying bearing-hub sets from F-A-G as they still had a retaining ring.

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Thanks all. Solved.

 

I finished the refurb on the front brakes and other paint jobs. It has taken a while between paint coats and looking after kids etc.

 

I took the car out yesterday, but further afield today at A road speeds. The drone has disappeared, so it was the correct wheel bearing that was replaced. Phew!

 

There is something to be said for opening up the brake nipple rather than just undoing brake reservoir cap when pushing back the caliper piston. 

 

Lots of black bits in brake fluid.

Going to do a full four wheel brake bleed when it is a rain day. 

IMG_20230802_142122.thumb.jpg.8310adcfe826a079d296121ce6f753df.jpg

 

IMG_20230802_150249_HDR.thumb.jpg.4bc6a8b8d688a73f8fa7f6ab026b4ea2.jpg

 

Front wheel hub 12 point nut stage 1 50 nm then stage 2, 45 degree turn.

 

The Brembo supplied plates the pads sit on (fitting kit)  were way too tight on the pads, not because of the paint job btw. I literally chipped away all the old paint back to metal. The old ones were only a few years old and allowed the pads to move. 

 

 

Tracking seems unaffected. 

Edited by bmbmdmb

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