Hi,

 

The battery in the 2009 Octy from my sig. died yesterday, I think it must be the original one so it had a rather good run.

 

I have 2 workshops in my village where I could order and have the battery charged, but Oscaro lists this one as compatible:

https://www.oscaro.com/batterie-bosch-0-092-s40-080-1777147-2585-p#

 

Are they right and is this a good choice?

 

AFAICT it's not an AGM which is rather a plus in my experience (cheaper and more reliable; I had 3 fail without warning in my MC).

 

Also, can I just disconnect the current battery and swap in a new one and what kind of info/settings will I lose when I don't provide a backup source?

(e.g. do I need to jot down how I set up my audio and the things set via the dashboard?)

Hello RJ, does your car have automatic stop/start? - if so the battery you mention will not be compatible.

1 hour ago, RJVB said:

Hi,

 

The battery in the 2009 Octy from my sig. died yesterday, I think it must be the original one so it had a rather good run.

 

I have 2 workshops in my village where I could order and have the battery charged, but Oscaro lists this one as compatible:

https://www.oscaro.com/batterie-bosch-0-092-s40-080-1777147-2585-p#

 

Are they right and is this a good choice?

 

AFAICT it's not an AGM which is rather a plus in my experience (cheaper and more reliable; I had 3 fail without warning in my MC).

 

Also, can I just disconnect the current battery and swap in a new one and what kind of info/settings will I lose when I don't provide a backup source?

(e.g. do I need to jot down how I set up my audio and the things set via the dashboard?)

 

Bosch car batteries are made by Varta.

 

Varta are listing this AGM battery for the Octavia MK2 1.6TDI. An AGM battery is a stop-start battery.

 

Varta Silver Dynamic AGM 570901076

 

https://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/varta-silver-dynamic-agm/570-901-076

 

https://www.amazon.fr/VARTA-SILVER-DYNAMIC-AGM-E39/dp/B00CEBBBCE/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_fr_FR=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=1CBSNR50ERSH8&keywords=Varta+e39&qid=1691327783&refinements=p_n_free_shipping_eligible%3A20934939031&rnid=20934938031&sprefix=varta+e39%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-1

 

Edited 6 August, 20232 yr by Carlston

OK, Varta is a name I associate more with reliable batteries than Bosch

 

And no, I don't have start/stop (didn't even know that wasn an option on these "old" diesels). I did see the indication that the model I chose wasn't compatible with that.

 

(That said, if you never use the feature there's no point in getting the more expensive type of battery required, is there?)

1 hour ago, RJVB said:

And no, I don't have start/stop (didn't even know that was an option on these "old" diesels). I did see the indication that the model I chose wasn't compatible with that.

 

(That said, if you never use the feature there's no point in getting the more expensive type of battery required, is there?)

 

What size battery do you want? (Width x Height x Length)

 

Size 2

175mm x 190mm x 242mm

 

Size 3

175mm x 190mm x 278mm

 

Varta D15 563400061 (Size 2 battery) (Not stop/start battery)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=tayna-batteries&store_name=taynabatteries&_oac=1&_nkw=varta+d15&_sop=15&rt=nc&Brand=VARTA&_dcat=179846

 

https://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/varta-silver-dynamic/563-400-061

 

As well as the physical size, ie. width x height x length, also check the orientation of the battery terminals.

 

For example, the terminals on the following battery are reversed

 

Edited 6 August, 20232 yr by Carlston

I was hoping I could get confirmation here about the exact model (or specs) that will work, without having to remove the current battery to measure its dimensions... Aren't those known for my engine, or else based off the VIN?

Edited 6 August, 20232 yr by RJVB

Don't fit an EFB or AGM type, your charging system isn't suitable.

I could look up Skoda part number and Ah/CCA spec if you supply VIN, but dimensions won't be 'lookupable' by that means I don't think. That info is probably all written on the top surface of the battery anyway, so take a ruler out and measure it while you're there. Length and width should be easy to get, depth probably by just sticking the ruler down beside the battery vertically.

41 minutes ago, RJVB said:

I was hoping I could get confirmation here about the exact model (or specs) that will work, without having to remove the current battery to measure its dimensions... Aren't those known for my engine, or else based off the VIN?

 

Varta thinks this one is correct. Varta do a cheaper Blue version, but it's only about 10% cheaper. However, the Silver one works much better.

 

Varta Silver Dynamic 563400061

Capacity: 63Ah

CCA: 610A

Width: 175mm

Length: 242mm

Height: 190mm

Short Code: D15

UK Code: 027

https://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/varta-silver-dynamic/563-400-061

Edited 6 August, 20232 yr by Carlston

It's a size 3. Depth wasn't very crucial to measure as both types are identical in that dimension.

 

I'll call the workshops tomorrow and see what they propose but "on screen" I'm liking the Bosch that Oscaro proposed. If it's made by Varta but cheaper than one I'd be stupid not to opt for it.

 

Can anyone answer the question about disconnecting the battery please, or maybe just give some tips for an aux 12V supply I can connect safely to the two bolts on the terminal connectors so nothing gets powercycled?

Generally nothing much is lost when changing batteries. Might just have to re-enable one-touch window operation.

Note that both of those battery clamps appear to have been misfitted.

The battery posts are tapered, and both of those clamps haven't been pushed far enough down the tapers before being tightened. When fitting to the new battery, loosen off fully and push down all the way on the post tapers, which should open up the clamps, that way the tightening won't end up running out of adjustment as both look to have in your photo.

Misfit at the factory, or would that be a replacement installed at a VAG dealership (the car was under a lease contract until I got her)?

 

At least these didn't come off. Someone also forced on a mis-fitting coolant hose (the big one with the "elbow"), which inevitably blew during a heatwave cause all coolant to be dumped at once...

I'm also not particularly keen on having to reprogram my audio, or anything else for that matter. The window thingy is something I have to do regularly anyway, at the passenger side at least.

Looking at 12V supplies I of course get hits on car and MC batteries. This one <https://amzn.eu/d/eNZj6FB> is dirt cheap but still claims to be an AGM?!

(Sorry for the machine gun posting, but...)

 

The thought had crossed my mind that once the engine runs the battery is there chiefly as a stabiliser, so should theoretically not be required when not using anything power-hungry like power-steering. I'd rejected the idea as one that was probably a recipe for disaster, but apparently not?!

 

https://www.mister-auto.com/conseils-entretien/comment-changer-ma-batterie-sans-perdre-mes-donnees/

 

Can that article be trusted?!

 

Truth be told, if I can get cables on reliably from my partner's car there shouldn't even be a need to fire the engine during the swap ...

Edited 6 August, 20232 yr by RJVB

16 minutes ago, RJVB said:

Misfit at the factory

Wildly improbable. 

 

No idea what that article suggests, but if you are thinking of changing the battery with engine running, please forget that straight away.

 

3 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

 

No idea what that article suggests

It's suggesting coupling up jump leads to another vehicle, starting yours then removing the battery whilst the leads are still connected and then fitting the new one, too much risk of an accidental disconnection and possible voltage spike for me.

 

I've removed batteries from running engines on alternator equipped cars in the past many times without problem but would not risk it on a modern ECU and Canbus equipped car, using jump leads just isn't secure enough especially when having to wriggle out one battery and squeeze in another if it has the plastic battery casing that mine had.

 

The factory fitted 027 does not have a lot of reserve capacity and wont fair well towards the end of its life, I always step up to the 096 (I think, correct me if I'm wrong) which fits snugly on the standard battery tray and within the plastic casing, a decent increase in capacity for little or no money more.

9 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

No idea what that article suggests, but if you are thinking of changing the battery with engine running, please forget that straight away.

 

Sorry, I thought these days everyone has the reflex (if not gets a suggestion) to use google translate for sites in different languages: https://www-mister--auto-com.translate.goog/conseils-entretien/comment-changer-ma-batterie-sans-perdre-mes-donnees/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US&_x_tr_pto=wapp

 

As I said, I did think of it myself but rejected it, without really knowing why.

2 minutes ago, J.R. said:

It's suggesting coupling up jump leads to another vehicle, starting yours then removing the battery whilst the leads are still connected and then fitting the new one, too much risk of an accidental disconnection and possible voltage spike for me.

 

Hmm, yeah, you could create a spike (but from a battery that won't crank the engine anymore??).

 

And in fact, the article does not state explicitly that you need to leave the leads connected. The site name rings a bell from long ago so this may indeed be an old article, but I'd still expect they would have added a warning to watch out that the leads don't disconnect AND don't touch (which I reckon wouldn't be nice for either car if the leads have to stay on).

 

Here's another way (sorry it's in French too, so mute it if that distracts you )

 

It mentions 1 thing I didn't think of: the autoradio might ask for a code after a powerloss. And I'm not aware that I have one...

 

I'm surprised that there doesn't seem to be a fixation system on my battery other than the 2 cables?!

I see there are similar power savers that connect to the OBD port, but that feels like a risky business?!

The spike if there would be one would be from the alternator.

 

6 minutes ago, RJVB said:

And in fact, the article does not state explicitly that you need to leave the leads connected

 

You are right, although it does not say to disconnect them on reflection I agree with you that is what they meant and how most inexperienced owners would read it, it suggests the jump start because you have a flat battery not as a means of maintaining the 12v during the swap.

 

Your battery should have a clamp, many go missing because fitters have fat fingers and little patience!

 

Your radio is paired to the vehicle, if it asks for a code just ignore it and wait a few minutes and it will sync and start working again, I didn't know this and gave myself no end of grief trying every number I could see written down in the handbook, eventually it locked out after too many wrong codes, I went to bed grumpy blaming the previous owner etc (anyone but myself!) the next morning the radio worked when I started it!

 

I never bother with maintaining the voltage on these vehicles now when disconnecting or changing the battery, the radio sorts itself out, the dashboard looks like fault code city but they all clear within 50 meters of driving, I might have to reteach the electric windows that is all, I dont even know how to do that, I just press and hold the buttons until they work properly.

 

So to recap, nothing to gain by leaving the engine running and plenty to lose, it would probably be OK but why take the risk? - Nothing to gain.

You don't even lose your radio presets and equaliser settings?

I dont have either to lose!!!!!

 

It would not be the end of the world for me if I did and lost them.

 

I have not found a French radio station that does not drive me round the bend within 10 minutes, constant eeuhing and repeated adverts for the same couple of supermarkets with either voix mielleuse woman or cheeky chappy cretin guy.

Edited 6 August, 20232 yr by J.R.

True, I'd jot them down. If I knew it was necessary, otherwise I'd probably forget it

I've only just seen this thread and I have to agree with the advice that @Breezy_Pete has given. Any attempt to try and save any settings is just not worth the risk of destroying everything. I'd be inclined to jump start the engine and then run the engine for a few minutes to allow the suppression capacitors etc within the various ECU's fitted to the car to store some power, and then switch off and replace the battery with your new one. Generally speaking, if this is done without too much delay, you will find that very little or even no data/settings are lost. Yes you see/hear of cases where replacing the battery you have loads of warning lights appear in the instrument clusters, but these usually only appear if the battery is completely dead and has had zero voltage for some considerable time, so any charge stored in the ECU's internal capacitors has also drained away.

 

You might find that if your car has electric steering that when the new battery is fitted, you have a warning light for steering come on. If this happens, all you normally have to do is start the car and just turn the steering from lock to lock a couple of times and the light should switch off once the steering has learned the steering wheel position/angle from the procedure.

Edited 6 August, 20232 yr by Graham Butcher

Ah, the Bosch C7 charger also has a "support function" (13.6V, which IIRC is more or less what a well-charged battery puts out), and is almost half the price of the CTek. I still prefer not to risk losing any settings