Hi, 

 

I'd like to add direct TPMS to my 2018 Kodiaq & I'd appreciate if anyone can answer the following :

 

- I'd put the receiver in cabin, probably as close as possible to gateway, does anyone know why in the earth it ended up in the middle of rear bumper ? Does anyone have experience with another location ?

- Could anyone with direct TPMS fitted paste a VCDS scan ?

 

Thanks.

I have done this.  I put the receiver under the rear bumper, drivers side.  You do need ODIS-E to program the module once, as it will not come with appropriate settings.  Once ODIS-E'd, you can then just use VCDS to adjust.

My thread here: 

 

Thanks wokwon, finally another use for my VAS 6154

 

Great thread, you gave me some idea - especially receiver location. I think I'll try to stick it somewhere in the center console or under one of the front seats. 

It goes in the rear as that’s how it can determine which sensor is fitted to which wheel.

if you’re gonna place it anywhere else you’ll have issues with localising the sensors.

 

if you are going through the effort of removing the centre console to hide it, why not do it properly and run it to the back of the car?

I've been thinking about why one would go to all this effort to replace a functioning indirect TPMS (assuming the car has it). The only reason I can think of i that there is a time lag on the indirect system as it must take a while for the system to notice the cahnge in wheel rotation speed, whereas direct is much more likely to react quickly. And, of course. indirect can't detect a total flat on a car which has been left standing for a long period. I assume diect can.

Indirect is faulty if it does not detect a totally flat tyre once moving, but then the driver is pretty hopeless as well.

You set the Tyres Pressures, the car logs the diameter / circumference , amount of rotations and will spot a change in size eventually,

maybe not if the 4 tyres lose air slowly.  Not all 4 need not be to the same pressure when setting.

 

My new MINI has Tyre Pressure Sensors.  (BMW had to introduce them many years before others as drivers with Run Flats never noticed Blow Outs!)

 

The MINI is crap and from Reset while Stopped it takes about 3-5 miles to register what the BAR is.

It has even had me resetting it with the tyres changed and all 4 at an identical PSI yet showing 1 as at a different pressure.

On my young lads BMW it is much better, temperature and pressure shows.  PITA is actually getting air in with some Tyre Inflators.

The valves are fussy.

Edited 30 August, 20232 yr by toot

2 hours ago, ApertureS said:

It goes in the rear as that’s how it can determine which sensor is fitted to which wheel.

if you’re gonna place it anywhere else you’ll have issues with localising the sensors.

 

if you are going through the effort of removing the centre console to hide it, why not do it properly and run it to the back of the car?

 

Are you 100% sure that receiver's location has anything to do with side determination ? The system I know (other OEM...) uses wheel speed sensor edges in order to determine which RF transmission belongs to which wheel and receiver location is only important because of reception power.

I'm trying to avoid RR bumper due to wiring to the front of the vehicle being a pain (I've experienced 2 times). Console on the other hand, is much closer to gateway, less trim to remove really. 

 

1 hour ago, Routemaster1461 said:

I've been thinking about why one would go to all this effort to replace a functioning indirect TPMS (assuming the car has it). The only reason I can think of i that there is a time lag on the indirect system as it must take a while for the system to notice the cahnge in wheel rotation speed, whereas direct is much more likely to react quickly. And, of course. indirect can't detect a total flat on a car which has been left standing for a long period. I assume diect can.

 

I understand what you're saying but in addition to my personal interest, it's also the convenience of direct TPMS. TPMS sensors are equipped with temperature sensors as well so adjusted pressure measurement is much more precise. With indirect TPMS, false warnings are likely (depends on calibration, OEM might choose to avoid false warnings but then "late" warning becomes an issue for some). 

And of course, direct shows pressures individually whereas I'm not aware of any indirect system where customer is informed via MMI. 

I understand the pros and cons of direct v indirect, but I have always found indirect adequate for my personal need. Luckily I have never as a sudden deflation of a flat in the morning. One issue with indirect TPMS is that, on some cars, the system will only tell you that a tyre is underinflated, but not which one. I have only had one occurrence on our Karoq, and that told me which tyre needed attention. I assume that Skoda software is better than other brands, even though it should be easy to program a system to do this. Saves checking all tyres.

13 hours ago, ronery said:

 

Are you 100% sure that receiver's location has anything to do with side determination ? The system I know (other OEM...) uses wheel speed sensor edges in order to determine which RF transmission belongs to which wheel and receiver location is only important because of reception power.

 

 

 

I never managed to figure out how it knows which wheel is which.  There are measuring blocks in the module that list things like signal strength and 'calculated distance' etc.  I looked into it but never found a decisive answer on how VAG does it. 

 

I found generally across manufacturers there are four ways:

- Direct assignment, i.e. you register the sensor in the position

- Antennae in each wheel arch liner that is for that one sensor (I think FCA does this)

- Using the ABS modules at each wheel to wake up the sensor on demand to figure out which is which

- Some other sort of magic.

 

Anyway all the howto's I read for VAG said put it in the rear, so that's what I did.  In my picture in my thread, it was hard against the rear bumper-sheetmetal-bit and I had issues with the front-left (furthest away) dropping out sometimes, particularly when roads are wet.  I moved the module forward a little bit with a 3dprinted bracket and it's been mint ever since.  The other big problem I had was purchasing Chinese sensors, they all failed after about 18 months.  I replaced with genuine Huf sensors and they've all lasted > 3 years now.

 

In terms of why do it, before I had direct TPMS I checked the tyre pressures every week manually.  With direct TPMS now I can check whenever I want without mucking around.  Still have to haul out the spare wheel every month though so it's not a total solution.  Could get standalone TPMS for that I guess but it's less important to me as I also carry a compressor anyway.