OK have now totally covered the air induction system on the fabia with cool tube. Interestingly it does seem to be more responsive and clocking it at 30mph in 3rd on the same bit of road more ecomonical! But what a **** of a job. Jacked the front of the motor up by using an axle stand on one side and the skoda jack on the other ( It wobbled when on two skoda jacks!!!) and then just managed to get under to release the skid pan underneath. The air pipe from the filter is only held on with 2 10mm nuts but one is in a bugger of a place, The spring clips at either end proved a little troublesome but came off without too much agro, just access issues. Will be interesting to see how this set tp compares to to say devontopia's once its been jabba'ed!

That sounds like the sort of experience I have when I embark on car DIY. The job often takes far longer than I anticipate and needs more specialist tools than those I already have. Which reminds me that I bought some coil spring compressors back in 1975 when I changed the rear springs on a Passat TS. Haven't used them since. I have also had a very nice torque wrench for years which only gets used when tightening wheel bolts.

Must now go and read up on Cool Tube which, IIRC, costs an arm and a leg. Is this what you used, Andy?

Thats the stuff and if you goto www.designengineering.com has more details..... Agreed not cheap but seems to work and until someone makes a lan intake its seems to be a good subsitute. Can mail small samples out of the material if pm or email.

I'll be honest now. I ran this little pipe insulation mod past Mike @ Jabba and was reliably informed it would have little effect.

Instead, I'm going to spend

Power Corrupts....

I'll be honest now. I ran this little pipe insulation mod past Mike @ Jabba and was reliably informed it would have little effect.

Instead, I'm going to spend

I'll be honest now. I ran this little pipe insulation mod past Mike @ Jabba and was reliably informed it would have little effect.

Instead, I'm going to spend

OK lets resus this one......

Have now over the last year piece meal due to cost havefully insulated the air induction of my TDI, due to the length and routeing of the air intake.Basically the air intake on any TDI is contorted to say the least and for a lot of its length is exposed to a lot of radiated heat. So basically all the air tubes have been overed over as best as possible with cool tube. The intercooler has been partioned off by using a piece of cool mat (basically a rectangle with a curve on the bottom left corner to follow the bottom tray and a slot on the right side to in effect clip around the bottom air pipe of the intercooler exposed by taking the wheelarch liner out on the offside),the side and bottom of the airbox exposed to the engine also coated in cool mat. Finallly as much as possible the exhaust coated in exhaust wrap so carry away the exhaust gases at maximum velocity. So the basic scientific basis is as much as possible the air is kept cool due to the pipe work being cool and intercooler protected and wheelarch liner vented. The exhaust wrap helps keep heat out of the engine bay and because as a gas cools it expands and hence needs more volume and causes back pressure. So by using exhaust wrap we keep cooling to a minimum and hence gases can pass easier down the exhaust and keep heat out of the engine bay.

The test of this will be on Thursday when it gets re-jabba'ed. The car does spin up quick as seen at the recent essex rr day even with a knacked maf.

http://www.agriemach.com/product_info.php?cPath=0_7&products_id=698 is the air intake wrap (you need 3 :eek: )

http://www.agriemach.com/product_info.php?products_id=365 is the exhaust wrap (1x50ft 1x25ft)

http://www.agriemach.com/product_info.php?cPath=0_7&products_id=398 is the stuff used for the heat shield and to coat the airbox (have a large piece left offers please!)

The words BUGGER ME spring to mind!!!! Just back from jabba and the car has SOOOOO much power especially torque it needs a G60 clutch and flywheel :eek:. Mike had to turn DOWN the power or the clutch was slipping!!!! :eek: We now have 149bhp (pre-tuning rr run today 139bhp) and 350nM or 258lbs/ft (pre-tuning rr run today 316NM or 233lbs/ft) of torque!!!! And Mike reckons with an uprated clutch this can be easily push to 150-155bhp and 300 lbs/ft of torque!!! So I think its say to safe that the engine LOVES cool air and a nice warm exhaust!!! I LOVE TORQUE!!!!!

very good news Andy,what must your Students think when they are out in it,you must be very pleased.

so after the clutch and flywheel going for a FMIC???

very good news Andy' date='what must your Students think when they are out in it,you must be very pleased.

so after the clutch and flywheel going for a FMIC???[/quote']

Give over the mate the car was flying on the way back from jabba! That torque is AWESOME and even Mike was suprised how fast it all kicked in and how long it stays. Max torque at 2400rpm approx but have over 300NM from just over idle to approx 3500rpm. Stall that! And have 100bhp plus from just over 2000rpm!!!! Just got to find

Give over the mate the car was flying on the way back from jabba! That torque is AWESOME and even Mike was suprised how fast it all kicked in and how long it stays. Max torque at 2400rpm approx but have over 300NM from just over idle to approx 3500rpm. Stall that! And have 100bhp plus from just over 2000rpm!!!! Just got to find

Sorry Andy, I'm a bit slow tonight, but what does the

The approx

:mecry: more money down the tube

Andy you truly are a nutta, hat off to you mate.

Jacked the front of the motor up by using an axle stand on one side and the skoda jack on the other ( It wobbled when on two skoda jacks!!!) and then just managed to get under to release the skid pan underneath.

Probably 'off topic' but seems a bit dangerous to me! :eek:

I would always jack the car up and use axle stands to take the load or use ramps

I would hate to think of a squashed Furby owner!

:amb:

I laugh in the face of danger.....

Then i get the trolly jack and axle stands that Ive since bought.....

andy, have you got any pictures of your mods?

Ta

Mike

I will attempt to do some photo's soon.....

I'm guessing the same 'trick' can be applied to the vRS

yes the vrs has the same if not identical pipe work

The majority of the gain in this situation comes from wrapping the exhaust and turbo though, right? That's the source of the majority of under-engine heat. And I'm pretty sure all of the gear mentioned above can be bought cheaper at :

http://www.thinkauto.com/

Exhaust wrap here is

You dont really want to be wrapping a turbo, you need it to keep cool not roast it like your Xmas turkey

Yep Ross, have to agree everyone just look how long and how far you air intake goes to get to the engine! It huges!!!!