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Citing ABS and Tracking lights are ON. Stop-Start stopped working.


ncsknc

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52 minutes ago, freemansteve said:

yes cable damage is a possibility - if the sensor is (as I think) chip-based, it's hard to say if 2V is meaningful; the cable to the ABS unit is at least not open-circuit...

I think the reluctor ring can get clogged or corrode, but you'll have to be up for disassembly of the rear hub and drum brake. If you cannot remove the RHS rear wheel, I suspect you may not have the tools to do a hub disassembly, but any decent independent garage will be able to.

I assume you have you disconnected and reconnected the battery for a reset, and driven the car 1/2 mile, in case the new sensor needs to be recognized by the system - I don't know whether you have to reset error codes, but probably, so check this first with a garage.

For tech help, the Up Owners Club has far more members and quite a few genuine tech people on it..... The Up is the same car as a Citigo.

 

 

 

Thanks. 

 

I have this VCDS tool connected to my laptop to reset codes. It didn’t, came back again. 
 

I didn’t try battery disconnect. I didn’t know that could be a step I could try! 
 

for some reason the car didn’t start. Showed oil symbol, topped up few ml and now it started again. 
i have indeed driven the car. 

no, I don’t have tools for hub disassembly. 
I have tried cleaning the relucter ring using a screw driver bit wound in a cloth. this was directly inserted into the hole. It was indeed clogged up, black stuff came out. Pictures attached. 
 

I could not rotate the wheel freely as it was too hard and couldn’t clean the whole ring properly. 
 

Nothing changed. 
 

I am weighing up options here. Have insurance excess of £490. Could go through them for a full ABS system change. Or could try independent garage for more experiments. 
 


 

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Battery disconnect is like a "cold boot" on a PC and resets some things. A long shot though. Try that, then drive the car...
 

How old is the battery? Said before, but dying batteries often can start cars, but still not have enough volts (not current!) to ensure electronics are OK - weird, but true....

Edited by freemansteve
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2 hours ago, ncsknc said:

 

I could not rotate the wheel freely as it was too hard

Is the brake stuck on at that wheel position then?

 

2 hours ago, ncsknc said:

black stuff came out. Pictures attached.

Brake dust?

No pictures here?

 

Thanks. AG Falco

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1 hour ago, AGFalco said:

Is the brake stuck on at that wheel position then?

 

Brake dust?

No pictures here?

 

Thanks. AG Falco

https://imgur.com/a/MUej7P9
 

wait, parking was not on. 
should the feel spin freely? I was really struggling to turn it and nearly knocked over the jack. 
 

also, does this mean the gunk could be break dust?  As in reluctor ring is within the housing. Is the brake pads in the drum in the same housing?

 

could this be an issue that there is a lot of build up of black stuff as above and the ring is physically deformed somehow with dust?
 

 

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17 minutes ago, ncsknc said:

should the feel spin freely?

If both the handbrake/parking brake was not on and the foot brake not on then the wheel should spin freely.

 

18 minutes ago, ncsknc said:

Is the brake pads in the drum in the same housing?

Brake shoes on the rear are inside the drum.

 

Look here:-

 

Thanks. AG Falco

 

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10 hours ago, ncsknc said:

wait, parking was not on. 
should the feel spin freely? I was really struggling to turn it and nearly knocked over the jack. 
 

also, does this mean the gunk could be break dust?  As in reluctor ring is within the housing. Is the brake pads in the drum in the same housing?

Yes, yes and yes. Watch the video @AGFalco just posted with a view to dismantling and cleaning the rear brakes. This will require brake cleaner, and I'd recommend using a filter mask to keep from breathing in most of the brake dust.

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6 minutes ago, freemansteve said:

And the reluctor ring is in the hub assembly (the bit where you poked your new sensor in).

Seriously, you need a proper garage.

 

Ah, I have been researching how to clean the brake dust, adjust it so it doesn't catch and perhaps even change the brake shoes. 
Now, looks like relucter ring is within the hub assembly means, removing the hub, needs hub nut socket, decent breaker bar, torque wrench to put it back on along with an angle guage. 

 

😐

 

Insurance says they could cover this as it was caused by a pot hole but the excess is at £490. The garage called after a day and pulled out of the repair request saying they are at full capacity. 

  • I have to find out how much it would cost to clean the drum, adjust so it doesn't catch, change brake shoes on both rear sides, together with removing hub assembley and cleaning relucter ring (hoping the ABS issue gets fixed)
  • Or starting out as a repair job on ABS and if it would cost less than £490.

Could you guys please suggest in your experience if you approach a job like this, how would you choose? 

The list of things that needs doing and the costs keeps growing!

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On 28/02/2024 at 17:18, ncsknc said:

I have this VCDS tool connected to my laptop to reset codes. It didn’t, came back again. 

So do you have a warning light on now?

 

Thanks. AG Falco

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just updating with where we are with this. 

 

Insurance said they would be happy to fix it and sent it off to repairers. Vizion Network. 
Repairers given insurance company a quote and Hastings, the insurers decided to write off the car! 😮 (I saw the quote is for the rear sensor harness on both wheels and the speed sensors themselves. £700 including labour)

 

Now they are not trying to contact me to give me a valuation or discuss this durther. Just become silent and I keep emailing motorclaims@hastingsdirect.com and [email protected]

 

Wish the repair was done with independant company and atleast we could have a car now. 

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11 minutes ago, Rooted said:

Someone is having a laugh here and at your expense.

  

Not a surprise here, trying to own a car for the first time in my life. 

 

We purchased it for £3000 and it was CAT N previously. It is possible the insurance is basing this on the amount mentioned on purchase? Not sure if the value of the vehicle as being £3000 gets passed on from the comparethemarket to Hastings. 

I didn't even know there are certain CAT vehicles that I need to avoid especially if I don't know anything about repairs as evident by my post history with basic questions here and other forums. 

 

Anyways, I learnt a lot albiet an expensive lesson. 

Citigo 2013 Greentech previous CAT N. 70k on. Little service history of battery change, tyre change, oil by previous owner. 

 

Like for like, I think I can replace it with another vehicle for £3500 but I doubt insurance agent would not laugh at me if I say that as my valuation. What is surprising if that they are being silent with no communication. Perhaps they are expecting me to call them to give their first valuation but I am not very good on the phone and gives me a lot of anxiety just thinking about it. 

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I have finally convinced the repairers to leave the car at my home so they can have space. 

MOT due in May and I wanted to have this fixed soon! 😔

 

 

Could you please guide me how to find a local garage that doesn't rip me off? 

 

List of things that needs doing has grown! 

 

  • ABS and anti-skid warning light due to hitting a pothole
  • Rear brake left and right adjustment 
    • (Not spinning freely)
  • Wheel alignment
  • Changing speed sensors (Offside rear) If ABS error still persists,
    • try changing ABS loom
    • if not the whole ABS system
  • Could you provide wheel arch cover / broken in the near front right
  • Start/Stop system not working, probably linked to ABS.
  • Replace all Car Locking Wheel Nuts to normal bolts. 

Looking for a cost on parts and labour. 

 

#Thanks

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It was a break in the wire due to corrosion. Local garage fixed it for £270. Diagnosis and two hours labour. 

 

 Wish I knew how to check continuity on the wires. It’s probably easy for them having the car on the ramp. It’s broken under the back seat they said. 

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15 minutes ago, ncsknc said:

 Wish I knew how to check continuity on the wires.

  1. Buy a multimeter
  2. Put it into continuity check mode
  3. Connect the probes to the points you wish to check continuity between
  4. Read the good/bad continuity from the VDU.

Simples.

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Looks like insurance are offering £3k to scrap this car and give it to Copart. Was previous CAT N. 

Thinking if we should take it, not able to find a suitable alternative though. 

On one hand, no one is offering this price and on the other hand, she is a known devil. hmmm. 

 

 

thanks all. 

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