All N/S electrics down.....

[Breezy_Pete]

Only other thing to mention is the bits (kindly shown by the above) in between the motors.

These microswitches and resistor combo will be to give positional feedback to the door control unit, to tell it when to stop driving the motors (i.e. limit switches).

 

These won't be involved with control unit unconnected,  so I would 'dab' at the motor connections with the 12V, rather than apply continuously. 

You'll probably hear a change of running speed at physical end of travel range.

 

It might be informative to measure (resistance) between the two pins that connect these switches to the door control module before doing any powering of motors. This ought to tell you if either of those microswitch are currently closed/conducting, by reading 0 ohms or a finite resistance.  Pins 6 (brown/black wire) to 7 (brown/yellow wire) at 20-way connector. Or both may be open as shown,  so meter will read overlimit.

 

Exactly what you do with the information gleaned, I'm not sure, but data is always good to have when available.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 24 March by Breezy_Pete

[KiNeL]

Good advice. When you're experienced and comfortable in dealing with electrical and electronic gizmos it's too easy to forget that others may be less so 

 

I have a variable current limiting 12v power supply which I use in such circumstances.

 

 

[Crasher]

We had a Leon XL come in, only four years old, with total convenience system and some drive train BUS failures although it started and ran. The only clue was the customer told me he saw smoke come out of the passengers door lock as he shut the door and just as everything died. When I eventually managed to open the door and pulled off the card I found an assembly defect had caused the harness to get trapped (red arrow) and eventually it shorted out, took out the CAN BUS and BCM.

 

)

Edited 24 March by Crasher

[arpster]

On 21/03/2024 at 08:36, Breezy_Pete said:

The first thing probably worth checking is the 12V permanent power to the thick red/yellow, and also the thinner red/violet feed going to the 20-way door module connector. If you measure relative to the thick brown earth wire on pin 20 of that connector, you'll be testing the earth continuity through the bellows too.

 

 

There does seem to be two motors within the lock module, a lock motor and a safelock motor. Not really sure what the normal sequence of operation is, but they share one common wire, the green/yellow at the lock connection. The lock motor has a blue wire also going to it, the safelock motor has a grey/yellow.

I assume that when locking and unlocking there is a 12V potential difference applied on these wires. So for one direction of lock movement the common, green/yellow would be at - say - 0V and the other two wires given 12V, probably one after the other? For the other direction, the common would be at 12V, the other two earthed.

 

You can access the non-lock end of these wires at the 20-way connector that goes onto the door control module. Pin 11 is the common, green/yellow, 12 is the grey/yellow, 13 the blue. 

You could just play around with applying voltage to these wires and hoping to unlock it.

 

 

 

 

BOOM!!!....😃.....followed the above instructions - and after numerous click and groans with the initial setup (12v to grey/yellow and to blue) ...I reversed the sequence as suggested - 12v to the common green/yellow and 0v to the other two and Boom! ...the door popped open...as did my jaw! ) .....was finally able to access the cursed door loom and sure enough - two small snapped wires ....heck of a job repairing them as only had about 40mm of wire to play with but just about had enough to extend / solder and heatshrink .......doors (front and rear) now locking/unlocking...windows working...adjustable mirror and mirror indicator all good 👍

To say I'm pleased is an understatement ....first posted about this in December and its been doing my nut in all winter - no-one appeared to have ever had the same problem - or if they had there was no record of it and any forums/ youtube videos / facebook groups despite months of searching.........

MOT due later this week so had resigned myself to automatic failure and hefty auto sparks bill .....last chance saloon - and it worked!

 

Can't thank you enough Pete......absolute legend mate.....several virtual pints coming your way! 👊 🍻

Cheers!

 

 

 

 

 

On 21/03/2024 at 08:36, Breezy_Pete said:

The first thing probably worth checking is the 12V permanent power to the thick red/yellow, and also the thinner red/violet feed going to the 20-way door module connector. If you measure relative to the thick brown earth wire on pin 20 of that connector, you'll be testing the earth continuity through the bellows too.

 

 

There does seem to be two motors within the lock module, a lock motor and a safelock motor. Not really sure what the normal sequence of operation is, but they share one common wire, the green/yellow at the lock connection. The lock motor has a blue wire also going to it, the safelock motor has a grey/yellow.

I assume that when locking and unlocking there is a 12V potential difference applied on these wires. So for one direction of lock movement the common, green/yellow would be at - say - 0V and the other two wires given 12V, probably one after the other? For the other direction, the common would be at 12V, the other two earthed.

 

You can access the non-lock end of these wires at the 20-way connector that goes onto the door control module. Pin 11 is the common, green/yellow, 12 is the grey/yellow, 13 the blue. 

You could just play around with applying voltage to these wires and hoping to unlock it.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 24 March by arpster

[J.R.]

Well done you!

[Robjon]

10 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Well done you!

 

And well done Pete 👍

[arpster]

12 hours ago, KiNeL said:

Here is the wiring diagram for the passenger door, you can see the two motors and the wire colours/connector pin numbers which feed them.

 

Hopefully applying 12v to one or both will result in an unlocking!

 

 

Thanks mate.....hopefully this'll help others with Yeti door issues! 👊