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Heating blower motor

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Hi. New to this forum as just bought a lovely Suoerb estate, only to then realise that the blower motor isn’t working!

 

The lights show up on the heater control indicating what speed the motor should be blowing at, but that doesn’t translate to any motor activity.

 

is this likely to be a faulty motor, which I understand is located near the glovebox, or could it be a relay?

 

And, whichever it is, is it easy to replace the motor or relay and how much cost am I looking at?

 

Any help or guidance much appreciated.

 

Thanks, Steve

Please use the search function, (or scroll a little back). This topic has been discussed a lot lately.

I don't know if you have found the answer yet.

 

it sounds like the motor, I had to replace mine earlier in the year, I bought one off eBay for about £60 brand new and it was a direct replacement.

fitting was a doddle, it took me longer to get the trim off the underside of the gave box than it did to replace to actual motor, have a look on you tube there are a few guides on there on how to do it 

  • Author

Thanks. Advice on here plus google searching has helped me to resolve the issue (for now at least).

 

as per your comment, I had to remove glove box and undercover to access the blower motor. I gave the motor a few manual twists and applied some wd40 into the moving bits and it is now working fine again. I understand the car had been static for about a month, so that may have caused the sticking motor issue. Anyway, now working.

 

the only impact was that when I put everything back together again  and started car, I got an airbag fault which would not disappear. Again, google and this site indicated that this was caused by disconnecting electrical connections when removing glove box and then turning keys to test the blower whilst the glovebox was removed (which I obviously would do), not realising the knock on warning light effect.

 

Anyway, local mechanic cleared the fault and all is now good.

 

i wonder if the way to prevent this happening if I need to access the motor again is to turn off the passenger airbag first  before disconnections any connections?

 

PS. £60 for new motor sounds like a bargain. Do you have a link?

The airbag fault will only show if you turn on the ignition before plugging the airbag connection in. You can also disconnect the battery to prevent it. Are you sure you needed to remove the glove box? I changed mine on my back under the dash in 2 minutes with no tools needed - it just twisted to release. Perhaps some models differ.

3 hours ago, Steve0624 said:

Thanks. Advice on here plus google searching has helped me to resolve the issue (for now at least).

 

as per your comment, I had to remove glove box and undercover to access the blower motor. I gave the motor a few manual twists and applied some wd40 into the moving bits and it is now working fine again. I understand the car had been static for about a month, so that may have caused the sticking motor issue. Anyway, now working.

 

the only impact was that when I put everything back together again  and started car, I got an airbag fault which would not disappear. Again, google and this site indicated that this was caused by disconnecting electrical connections when removing glove box and then turning keys to test the blower whilst the glovebox was removed (which I obviously would do), not realising the knock on warning light effect.

 

Anyway, local mechanic cleared the fault and all is now good.

 

i wonder if the way to prevent this happening if I need to access the motor again is to turn off the passenger airbag first  before disconnections any connections?

 

PS. £60 for new motor sounds like a bargain. Do you have a link?

https://blowerfan.co.uk/skoda-superb-mk2-heater-blower-fan-motor-resistor-2008-2015/
 

if you have climate control then this is the one you need.

 

  • Author
7 hours ago, Trapdoor said:

The airbag fault will only show if you turn on the ignition before plugging the airbag connection in. You can also disconnect the battery to prevent it. Are you sure you needed to remove the glove box? I changed mine on my back under the dash in 2 minutes with no tools needed - it just twisted to release. Perhaps some models differ.

 

  • Author

Hi. In hindsight, I think access may have been possible without glovebox removal. The car was very new to me and all the advice pointed at glovebox removal needed to provide good access. Having now done the job, I think you could be right and I will go down that route if there is a next time, though hopefully I won’t need to!

 

Thanks.

Just been through all this on my 2014 4x4 Tour du France.

 

The oil on the top motor bearing did not last long before, after 2 days not using the car it stopped moving again. a had hand slap freed it off.

 

Decided to replace the old (92k miles) motor with a new one (£33).

 

Took the glove box out. Make sure all is turned off on the dash beforehand!

 

Remove all the connectors to bags and lights and cooling tube. Remove the box totally for easy access. Remove the distribution pipe (one screw) and twist the old motor out (tight).

New in and revers is the assembly method.

Get all the connectors to the bag and lights in place and loose the glove box into place. Turn the ignition on and check the fan functions via the dash controls.

 

My new fan clicked as it rubbed inside the fan housing so had to remove everything and trim the fan blades(!) and back together.

 

Doing this ensures the air bag warning light does not come on the dash permanently.

 

Fan is super quiet and starts nearly instantly to control positions esp screen de-mist.

  • Author

Thanks. Excellent detail, much appreciated. Can you share a link for the new motor you bought, as it seems a bargain and, as you say, it may be prone to happening again.

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