And also where is the ignition coil innthe engine bay. A rat repellent system was wired to the ignition coil and then taken off. I need to trace that and clean up.

Post a photo of the fusebox on top of your battery, and I will highlight SA2 for you, but I expect it is labelled.

Ignition switch is under the steering column, operated by the key.

2 minutes ago, Fotobob said:

And also where is the ignition coil innthe engine bay. A rat repellent system was wired to the ignition coil and then taken off. I need to trace that and clean up.

There are 3 coils, one plugged onto the top of each spark plug.

Edited 23 November, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

12 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Post a photo of the fusebox on top of your battery, and I will highlight SA2 for you, but I expect it is labelled.

Ignition switch is under the steering column, operated by the key.

Sure. You mean I wire from here all the way to ignition switch?

Also, do share dismantle steps to reach ignition switch.

Also, my lock is in trouble and it does not unlock with key but with key fob and does not unlock with keyfob but with key. Hope thus has no repercussions on the current scenario.

No, I mean check that there is 12V on both ends of the fuse, to prove it is not broken.

I do not know the steps to access ignition switch.

 

Locking problems are unlikely to be related to this.

24 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

No, I mean check that there is 12V on both ends of the fuse, to prove it is not broken.

I do not know the steps to access ignition switch.

 

Locking problems are unlikely to be related to this.

That I can do. I can take a lead from this to fuse and check for continuity. Will look up ignition switch opening diagrams on Google.

In the fuse box I do see these 2 red wires terminating. 

The second thick black wire, to the right of the missing fuse, is bolted to fuse SA2.

It is supplying 12V to interior of car including that connection of ignition switch. 

 

Is that rust  or red dust all over that fusebox?

 

You must have continuity through that fuse or nothing in the cabin would be working, now I think about it.

 

Just to check, when you are turning the key to switch on ignition, you are seeing lots of stuff illuminate in the instrument cluster, right?

1 minute ago, Breezy_Pete said:

The second thick black wire, to the right of the missing fuse, is bolted to fuse SA2.

It is supplying 12V to interior of car including that connection of ignition switch. 

 

Is that rust  or red dust all over that fusebox?

 

You must have continuity through that fuse or nothing in the cabin would be working, now I think about it.

 

Just to check, when you are turning the key to switch on ignition, you are seeing lots of stuff illuminate in the instrument cluster, right?

Yes there is rust. I had cleaned these earlier but will do it again and also put in copper paste to prevent further rusting.

Yes the instrument cluster lights up, the sound system works, the display lights come one.

I also think that there is a partial loss of power somewhere, either chewed up wire or I don't know.

Just now, Fotobob said:

Yes there is rust. I had cleaned these earlier but will do it again and also put in copper paste to prevent further rusting.

Yes the instrument cluster lights up, the sound system works, the display lights come one.

I also think that there is a partial loss of power somewhere, either chewed up wire or I don't know.

Btw, with ignition on, which fuses should show voltage readings and how much? Presently I get nothing on fuse 30. Should I check and take readings on the rear of the fuse? I have the whole thing opened up and have access to the rear of the fuse box.

Can you post a close-up picture of the relay sockets, especially position 14?

Need to check that you are measuring correct point.

1 minute ago, Fotobob said:

Presently I get nothing on fuse 30

Because the fuel pump relay is not being energised.

If you look at the back of the cabin fusebox, you may be able to see solid metal 'busbar' connections linking two groups of fuses.

One busbar will connect all the fuses that are permanently 12V.

A second busbar probably connects all fuses that should be switched on by ignition switch.

The others are not so easy to describe, where there are wires going to both sides.

22 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Can you post a close-up picture of the relay sockets, especially position 14?

Need to check that you are measuring correct point.

You are right. With the relay out of the socket I measured bottom to top considering these to be the supply terminals. Should have checked the 30 87 for 12v supply. Sorry about this.

24 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Because the fuel pump relay is not being energised.

If you look at the back of the cabin fusebox, you may be able to see solid metal 'busbar' connections linking two groups of fuses.

One busbar will connect all the fuses that are permanently 12V.

A second busbar probably connects all fuses that should be switched on by ignition switch.

The others are not so easy to describe, where there are wires going to both sides.

Got that. Will check voltage on the busbar with ground connected to see if these are getting power. If yes, then will move onto the next one to check for voltage when switched on. 

Also, is there any other point in the engine bay where the ignition status of the engine can be tapped. The rat repellent system had a circuit which cut of power to the unit when the engine was on and would power up when ignition was off. I am hoping that could be a fault point? 

7 minutes ago, Fotobob said:

Also, is there any other point in the engine bay where the ignition status of the engine can be tapped. The rat repellent system had a circuit which cut of power to the unit when the engine was on and would power up when ignition was off. I am hoping that could be a fault point? 

Fuel pump supply relay is relay 14 and fuel pump relay is 10.1

In position 30 87 is should get 12vni suppose 

Fuel pump relay is in position 14, fuel supply relay (triggered by door opening only) is in pos 10.1

Just now, Breezy_Pete said:

Fuel pump relay is in position 14, fuel supply relay (triggered by door opening only) is in pos 10.1

Will check voltage in that one too. The voltage checking is to be done in position 30 and 87 right?

Fuel supply relay has permanent 12V to connections 30 and 86, as seen in the diagram, red wires. Ignore that one for now though.

Focus on fuel pump relay connection 85. Positive meter probe in that, negative meter probe on chassis earth, with ignition switched on so that the instrument cluster lights up various warning lights.

Edited 23 November, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

Please confirm that when you are measuring voltages with your meter, you are connecting the negative probe to something that is unpainted metal, connected to the car body?

The outer connection/tube of the cigarette lighter socket would be an example of this.

Edited 23 November, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

3 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Please confirm that when you are measuring voltages with your meter, you are connecting the negative probe to something that is unpainted metal, connected to the car body?

The outer connection/tube of the cigarette lighter socket would be an example of this.

I have extended the battery ground and connect to that to measure.

3 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Fuel supply relay has permanent 12V to connections 30 and 86, as seen in the diagram, red wires. Ignore that one for now though.

Focus on fuel pump relay connection 85. Positive meter probe in that, negative meter probe on chassis earth, with ignition switched on so that the instrument cluster lights up various warning lights.

Will do that. Breaking this down into smaller steps seems better way to go. Thanks

On 23/11/2024 at 21:01, Breezy_Pete said:

Fuel supply relay has permanent 12V to connections 30 and 86, as seen in the diagram, red wires. Ignore that one for now though.

Focus on fuel pump relay connection 85. Positive meter probe in that, negative meter probe on chassis earth, with ignition switched on so that the instrument cluster lights up various warning lights.

These are the reading on the probes. Getting reading on 85 and 30 in ignition on position.

Non of the fuses in the lower panel are showing any voltage.

Port no 85 reading.

So there is nothing wrong with the wiring to the fuel pump relay terminals 30 and 85. 

See what the voltage is at terminal 86 also, please, on position 14, the fuel pump relay socket when ignition is switched on.

That should be connected to pin 26 at your engine ECU, and I expect that to sit at 12V approx, when ECU is not trying to run the fuel pump, and be at 0V any time it is trying to.

Monitor the voltage before, during and after ignition is switched on.

 

Sorry, just realised. Before you try that stuff with terminal 86 at position 14, refit the ECU in relay in position 13.

Jumping the relay point got the voltage to the pump and it's working now but getting no reading of fuel level nor cranking

16 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Sorry, just realised. Before you try that stuff with terminal 86 at position 14, refit the ECU in relay in position 13.

Will have to do this tmrw. Pretty dark and bulbs are out of power.

Glad there is some progress